WEBVTT 00:02.000 --> 00:05.000 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% AMNA NAWAZ: It's the latest craze among some preteens. Ask many tweens what's at 00:07.066 --> 00:10.266 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% the top of their wish list, and there's a good chance the answer will be skin care products. 00:12.266 --> 00:15.200 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% Special correspondent and Washington Post columnist Catherine Rampell has the story 00:15.200 --> 00:19.100 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% about the growth and concerns around this boom. 00:19.100 --> 00:24.000 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: One of Emma Scott's must-have skin care products is her glow recipe toner. 00:24.000 --> 00:26.533 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% EMMA SCOTT, 10 Years Old: And if you smell it, it smells, like, really good. 00:26.533 --> 00:28.800 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Oh, yes. Sort of fruity? 00:28.800 --> 00:30.700 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% EMMA SCOTT: Mm-hmm. 00:30.700 --> 00:32.333 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: The 10-year-old's preferred body butter, Sol de Janeiro. 00:32.333 --> 00:36.400 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% EMMA SCOTT: This one is like a creamy consistency. 00:36.400 --> 00:38.000 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: In her skin care fridge. 00:38.000 --> 00:41.033 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: I really like this Laneige sleeping mask. 00:41.033 --> 00:44.200 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: And for lip care, Summer Fridays' butter balm. 00:44.200 --> 00:48.233 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: Because it's like a limited edition. And I was like, oh, I really want this. 00:48.233 --> 00:53.200 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Scott does a multistep skin care routine every morning and every evening. 00:53.200 --> 00:58.166 align:left position:10% line:71% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: In the morning, I will do a face wash, a toner, a moisturizer, and my ELF-tinted SPF. 01:00.866 --> 01:02.500 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Why do you do it every day? 01:02.500 --> 01:04.466 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: Because I feel like it's really hydrating 01:04.466 --> 01:08.433 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% for your skin and it feels good on my skin. Normally, when I first wake up, 01:08.433 --> 01:13.433 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% I look like a really -- like a white ghost. So, I like being a little bit tanner and glowier. 01:15.600 --> 01:19.900 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Move over, Barbie. Today's tweens are obsessed with expensive skin care, 01:19.900 --> 01:24.533 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% products usually marketed to a much older, wealthier clientele. 01:24.533 --> 01:29.533 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% Households with tweens, aged 6 through 12, spent almost $2.5 billion facial skin 01:31.600 --> 01:34.833 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% care last year, an annual spending increase of 27 percent, more than double the average. 01:34.833 --> 01:37.500 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% GIRL: I like that it's like kind of watery. 01:37.500 --> 01:40.866 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: This is Scott's skin care crew, a group of friends and fellow 01:40.866 --> 01:45.833 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% skin care enthusiasts who meet daily, usually online, to bond over their beauty regimes. 01:47.033 --> 01:49.000 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% GIRL: I'm going to moisturize my hands. 01:49.000 --> 01:52.200 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: The girl's parents are still getting up to speed. 01:52.200 --> 01:57.166 align:left position:10% line:71% size:80% AMY SCOTT, Mother: I don't really use a whole lot of anything, so it's been very eye-opening for me. 01:58.433 --> 02:00.300 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Amy Scott is Emma's mother. 02:00.300 --> 02:04.133 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% AMY SCOTT: Sometimes, I get her leftovers, so I have started using 02:04.133 --> 02:08.033 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% a gel moisturizer that she has turned me on to. 02:08.033 --> 02:10.600 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: And you got her leftovers because she didn't like it? 02:10.600 --> 02:15.600 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% AMY SCOTT: No, she was just sick of using it. She always is looking for the newest thing. 02:19.333 --> 02:20.900 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% GIRL: Get ready for the day. 02:20.900 --> 02:22.966 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: The newest thing, as seen on social media. 02:22.966 --> 02:25.566 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% GIRL: First, I'm going to use these bronzer drops and then the oil. Let's do it. 02:25.566 --> 02:29.833 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: YouTube and TikTok teem with so-called skinfluencer content. 02:29.833 --> 02:31.700 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% GIRL: We're going to do a pump of that like this. 02:31.700 --> 02:34.633 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% GIRL: And then I go in with a little bit of this (INAUDIBLE) moisturizer. 02:34.633 --> 02:37.866 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: There are get ready with me videos of step-by-step routines. 02:37.866 --> 02:42.866 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% GIRL: I love that stuff. It makes my skin feel so good after putting that stuff on. 02:44.866 --> 02:48.433 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Unboxing videos and P.R. hauls showcase the latest products... 02:48.433 --> 02:52.466 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% GIRL: Glow recipe. Look how this box opens. Very unique. 02:52.466 --> 02:55.466 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: ... sent to influencers by brands for promotion. This is the 02:55.466 --> 03:00.466 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% actual Plum Plump moisturizer. Fabulous. Thank you, Glow Recipe. 03:02.600 --> 03:05.866 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% AMY SCOTT: She sees this person opening this product and it's like, oh, I have to try that. 03:07.933 --> 03:11.233 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% It's very expensive. So it's trying to say, let's talk about this. Is it really worth it? 03:13.033 --> 03:16.933 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: The most popular place to shop for skin care, Sephora. 03:16.933 --> 03:18.500 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% ALLIE ROSS, Influencer: First thing first, 03:18.500 --> 03:21.600 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% we need to see if they have the new Sol de Janeiro body cream. 03:21.600 --> 03:26.600 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: There's this girl that I watch, Allie Ross. And she goes to Sephora a lot. 03:27.766 --> 03:29.733 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% ALLIE ROSS: Oh, my God. You're kidding me. 03:29.733 --> 03:32.333 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: And she will, like, buy all these products. 03:32.333 --> 03:36.033 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: The retailer is now notorious for packs of young shoppers 03:36.033 --> 03:41.033 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% or Sephora kids looking for viral skin care products. Emma Scott goes at least once a week. 03:42.900 --> 03:47.133 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% How much do you think Emma has spent this year? 03:47.133 --> 03:48.533 align:left position:30% line:83% size:60% AMY SCOTT: It's got to be hundreds. 03:48.533 --> 03:50.900 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% GIRL: Do they have the pink one? 03:50.900 --> 03:53.566 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: We tagged along with the skin care crew on a recent 03:53.566 --> 03:58.533 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% visit as they browsed, tested, counted their money, and spent. 03:59.733 --> 04:01.900 align:left position:20% line:89% size:70% EMMA SCOTT: Thank you. 04:01.900 --> 04:06.133 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% Amy Scott insists Emma use her own money or gift cards from her birthday and other 04:06.133 --> 04:11.133 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% holidays. While this trend is certainly a boon for Sephora, others aren't totally sold. 04:12.833 --> 04:14.833 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD, Schweiger Dermatology Group: We're seeing 10-, 04:14.833 --> 04:17.500 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% 11-, 12-year-old girls bringing a shopping bag of their 12-step routine that they're 04:17.500 --> 04:22.166 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% doing in the morning and their 10-step routine that they're doing at night. 04:22.166 --> 04:25.566 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Nava Greenfield is a dermatologist in Manhattan. 04:25.566 --> 04:27.700 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: They might say, I want beautiful, flawless, 04:27.700 --> 04:29.866 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% perfect skin and I'm looking at them thinking, 04:29.866 --> 04:33.966 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% you already have that. There are a few times in life where a skin is going to be more beautiful. 04:33.966 --> 04:38.966 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% GIRL: Next up, my Glow recipe Firm Serum. Got to keep those wrinkles away. 04:40.800 --> 04:42.633 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Greenfield blames influencers for convincing tweens 04:42.633 --> 04:46.733 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% that they need lotions and potions containing anti-aging agents like 04:46.733 --> 04:50.400 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% retinol and other active ingredients that can be harmful to young skin. 04:50.400 --> 04:53.433 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% GIRL: Ever since I told my mom's retinol and started using it, 04:53.433 --> 04:57.533 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% I swear I'm aging backwards. I look so young. 04:57.533 --> 05:01.000 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: Just like adults will use Dr. Google to talk to me about their 05:01.000 --> 05:05.700 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% skin and about what they think is going on with their rash, adolescents do too. 05:05.700 --> 05:07.933 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: So, it's Dr. TikTok instead of Dr. Google. 05:07.933 --> 05:09.133 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: Exactly, yes. 05:09.133 --> 05:10.900 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% GIRL: My friend's skin is gorgeous. 05:10.900 --> 05:12.366 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Greenfield says it's not just 05:12.366 --> 05:15.066 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% young girls who think they need extensive skin care. 05:15.066 --> 05:18.400 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: I have adolescent boys coming in and asking about Botox. 05:18.400 --> 05:19.300 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Really? 05:19.300 --> 05:20.566 align:left position:10% line:89% size:80% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: Yes. 05:20.566 --> 05:22.433 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: What do you tell them? 05:22.433 --> 05:24.433 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: I tell them, you don't need Botox. I'm very direct. 05:24.433 --> 05:26.600 align:left position:30% line:89% size:60% (LAUGHTER) 05:26.600 --> 05:28.366 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: And I tell the girls too. I say, you have perfect skin. I can't help you. 05:28.366 --> 05:30.533 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% SONIA RODRIGUES, Rutgers University: I think it's mostly just wanting to 05:30.533 --> 05:34.733 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% fit in and feeling connected to their friends and being a part of the new trend and craze. 05:36.933 --> 05:39.966 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: But psychotherapist Sonia Rodrigues says the high cost can be a stressor. 05:39.966 --> 05:42.733 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% SONIA RODRIGUES: This is a huge issue because a lot of parents can't afford 05:42.733 --> 05:47.233 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% this, and the kids feel like, I can't keep up with my friends. 05:47.233 --> 05:52.200 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Post-pandemic tweens are also hyper aware of how they look on camera. 05:52.200 --> 05:57.200 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% SONIA RODRIGUES: A lot of kids were able to hide behind masks, and now there's no masks 05:59.166 --> 06:02.800 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% and there's also so much happening on their phones with their face front and center. 06:04.566 --> 06:06.433 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Do you think that there's more focus on physical 06:06.433 --> 06:10.233 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% appearance today than was the case when you started out practicing? 06:10.233 --> 06:15.233 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% SONIA RODRIGUES: Yes, absolutely. I think now, with social media and the pressure 06:17.066 --> 06:21.600 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% that kids are constantly feeling with all of the products that they're seeing, 06:21.600 --> 06:26.600 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% how people are looking, the airbrushing, there's so much pressure on kids to look a certain way. 06:28.566 --> 06:32.166 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Emma Scott says her primping routine is just a hobby. 06:32.166 --> 06:37.133 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% EMMA SCOTT: Doing with my friends, it's really fun and I feel like it's really relaxing, 06:37.133 --> 06:42.133 align:left position:10% line:71% size:80% and I can sit up here and, like, watch a movie and just have a face mask on to do all that fun stuff. 06:43.600 --> 06:45.400 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Emma says she avoids ingredients that are bad 06:45.400 --> 06:49.666 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% for young skin. Mom Amy keeps tabs on Emma and the rest of her crew. 06:49.666 --> 06:52.733 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% AMY SCOTT: For all of them not to, like, compare themselves to 06:52.733 --> 06:56.633 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% these digital influencers, because a lot of them are very pretty, and, 06:56.633 --> 07:01.300 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% from my standpoint, always being involved and knowing that it's OK to say no. 07:03.266 --> 07:05.800 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Amy makes sure her daughter carefully weighs each purchase. 07:05.800 --> 07:07.533 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% AMY SCOTT: She will say, this is at Sephora, 07:07.533 --> 07:11.033 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% I want to go see what it is or I want to buy it. Well, 07:11.033 --> 07:16.033 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% why would you want to buy it? Because so-and-so has it. Well, that's no reason to buy something. 07:18.200 --> 07:20.633 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Dr. Greenfield admits there are some benefits to the skin care craze. 07:20.633 --> 07:24.333 align:left position:20% line:71% size:70% DR. NAVA GREENFIELD: It's wonderful from my perspective that people are thinking about their 07:24.333 --> 07:29.333 align:left position:10% line:71% size:80% skin and people are taking the health of their skin very seriously, more so than we ever used to. 07:31.266 --> 07:35.866 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% But it's important to strike a balance. If their goal is to have healthy skin, 07:35.866 --> 07:38.000 align:left position:20% line:83% size:70% well, then that's really just about a cleanser, 07:38.000 --> 07:40.800 align:left position:10% line:77% size:80% moisturizer and sunscreen. You really don't need anything more than that. 07:40.800 --> 07:43.433 align:left position:10% line:83% size:80% CATHERINE RAMPELL: Despite what you might hear from Dr. TikTok. 07:45.233 --> 07:49.000 align:left position:20% line:77% size:70% For the PBS "News Hour," I'm Catherine Rampell in Greensboro, North Carolina.