WEBVTT

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-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

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back with more
of the best of Europe.

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This time we're enjoying
some under-appreciated corners

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of Germany,
both old and new.

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It's Hamburg
and a whole lot more.

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Thanks for joining us.

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Germany is Europe's
leading country in many ways.

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It dominates
Europe's economy today

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and has long had a huge impact
on events shaping the continent.

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We'll see that be
exploring Hamburg,

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its mighty port city,

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and then heading south

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to the stomping grounds
of a single monk

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who, 500 years ago,
changed the world.

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After enjoying Hamburg's
inviting parks

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and lakes we'll see how
it's architecture ranges

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from some of Hitler's left over
giant concrete bunkers

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to cutting-edge
modern buildings.

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We'll explore a vibrant
counter-culture neighborhood.

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And, after marveling at
Hamburg's vast

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Warehouse District,

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we'll take the best harbor tour
in Europe,

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sailing under its
striking new skyline

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capped by a towering
new concert hall.

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Then we'll delve
into the places

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where Martin Luther kicked off
the Reformation

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500 years ago, from the city
where he preached and taught

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to the castle in which he hid
out from the Holy Roman Emperor.

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We'll learn about the chaos
he triggered

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along with the progress.

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Finally, for a contrast to all
that stern Protestantism,

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we'll visit exuberantly
Catholic Wurzburg

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and admire the elegance
of its Residence,

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the palace of the prince
bishops of Franconia.

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In the heart of northern
Europe lies Germany.

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After touring Hamburg,
we head south

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to the Luther Cities
of Wittenberg and Erfurt,

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and finish in Wurzburg.

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Hamburg is Germany's
second-largest city.

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Like other
"second cities" --

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Chicago, Glasgow,
St. Petersburg --

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it has a spirited pride.

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While yet to be discovered
by American travelers,

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it's a popular destination
with Germans

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for its music, theater,

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and river-side energy.

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A century ago, Hamburg's port

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was the third-largest
in the world,

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with strong connections
both east and west.

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Heavy damage in World War II

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devastated
its commercial center.

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During the Cold War
which followed,

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trade to the east was cut off.

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Port traffic dwindled,
and so did the city's influence.

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But Hamburg's been
enthusiastically rebuilt and,

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since the reunification
of Germany

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just a generation ago,

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it's gaining back
its former status

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as a leading trade center.

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And it's become one of Germany's
most desirable places to live.

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The city's delightful lakes
were created in the Middle Ages

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when townsfolk built a mill
that dammed the local river.

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Back in the 1950s,

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a law guaranteed
public access to the lake

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for everyone,
and today, peaceful paths

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and bike lanes
are a hit with locals.

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On a nice day, the lake
is dotted with sailboats.

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On the far side,
lush inlets reach into

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fancy residential neighborhoods.

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Along with plenty
of downtown parkland,

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the lakes provide Hamburg --
one of Germany's

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greenest cities --
with an elegant promenade

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that comes complete with
top-of-the-line shops.

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Just a block away,
its massive city hall,

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built in the 19th century,
overlooks the lively scene.

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It's flanked by graceful arcades

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and surrounded by
plenty of commerce.

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Its bold architecture
and maritime atmosphere

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gives this northern-most
Germany city

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an almost Scandinavian feel.

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With its trading heritage
and a strong economy,

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Hamburg's downtown
showcases a wealthy city

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that rose like a phoenix
from a terrible recent past.

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You'd hardly know
that this was one of the most

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heavily bombed cities
in Germany in World War II.

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With its strategic port,
munitions factories,

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and transportation links,

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Hamburg was a prime target
for Allied bombers.

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American and British commanders
had an innovative plan

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with a horrific goal.

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Its name -- Operation Gomorrah.

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On July 27, 1943,
they hit targets first

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with explosive bombs
to open roofs,

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break water mains,
and tear up streets.

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The purpose -- to make it hard
for firefighters to respond.

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Then came a hellish onslaught
of incendiary bombs.

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-And the city of Hamburg...
-700 bombers concentrated

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their attack on
a relatively small area.

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The result was a firestorm
never seen before.

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The intensity of the bombs
actually created a tornado

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of raging flames
reaching horrific temperatures.

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Thousands suffocated inside
their air-raid shelters

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and those outside were
sucked off their feet,

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disappearing up into
the fiery vortex.

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In three hours, the inferno
killed over 35,000 people,

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left hundreds
of thousands homeless,

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and reduced eight square miles
of Hamburg to rubble and ashes.

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Somehow the towering spire
of St. Nicholas Church

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survived the bombing.

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It and the ruins
of the church itself

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are now a memorial,
left to commemorate those lost

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and to remind future generations
of the horrors of war.

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Where the original altar
once stood is now

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a simple yet poignant concrete
altar by Oskar Kokoschka.

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The memorial's
underground museum

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quietly tells the story.

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You'll see scorched
and melted fragments

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demonstrating the heat
of the firestorm

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and examples of the futility

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of trying to survive
such a bombing.

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The museum also shows
foreign cities

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that Germany destroyed.

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That's because
Germans make a point

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to acknowledge the suffering
they inflicted on others

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when remembering
their own suffering.

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Though Hamburg
is mostly rebuilt,

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many World War II-era bunkers
were just too solid to destroy,

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so they survive,

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incorporated into today's
contemporary scene.

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This mammoth structure
has 10-foot thick

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reinforced concrete walls.

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With windows cut
through the concrete,

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it's surprisingly inviting.

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While once hosting gunners

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trying to shoot down
allied planes,

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today,
bomb-hardened staircases

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lead to music shops
and dance clubs.

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[ Drumming ]

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And drummers here will
never draw complaints

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from their neighbors.

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Nearby, another bunker --

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this one with
colorful graffiti --

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is now a climbing wall
in a pleasant neighborhood park.

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While Germany is known
for its order and efficiency,

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that social conformity comes
with a flip side --

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neighborhoods well-known for
their energetic counter culture.

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Hamburg's trendy
Schanze Quarter offers

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a breath of fresh
cultural air.

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A popular neighborhood,
it has so many cafés,

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its main street is nicknamed
"Latte Macchiato Boulevard."

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This fun-loving edge
is nothing new to Hamburg.

07:56.100 --> 07:58.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Nearby, Hamburg's
Reeperbahn neighborhood

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has long been Germany's

07:59.500 --> 08:01.400 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
most famous
entertainment zone.

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It gained notoriety as a rough
and sleazy sailors' quarters

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filled with
nightclubs and brothels.

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But, as the city's changed,

08:09.333 --> 08:12.066 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
so has its
entertainment district.

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In one generation,
the Reeperbahn has earned a new,

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more respectable image --
a destination for theater

08:18.533 --> 08:20.200 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
and live music.

08:20.266 --> 08:22.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Today, this street,
where the Beatles

08:22.200 --> 08:24.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
launched their careers
back in 1960,

08:24.400 --> 08:28.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
is a fun scene
lined with playhouses.

08:28.066 --> 08:29.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Considered the Broadway
of Germany

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for its many musicals,

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the boulevard
attracts theater-goers

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from all over the country.

08:39.366 --> 08:41.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Hamburg, 60 miles
from the North Sea

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on the Elbe River,
has long been a vital port.

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Its waterfront is designed

08:46.600 --> 08:50.066 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
to accommodate
the Elbe's 13-foot tides.

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And, in anticipation
of a rising sea level

08:52.700 --> 08:55.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and potentially
devastating storm surges,

08:55.333 --> 08:59.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
miles of embankments
have recently been fortified.

08:59.466 --> 09:01.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Along with making
the city safer,

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this stretch comes
with a design element

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that gives Hamburg
a delightful new

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park-like stretch
of harbor front.

09:12.166 --> 09:14.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Long a busy ferry terminal,
this floating dock

09:14.666 --> 09:18.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
is now a thriving tourist zone.

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From here, with the aroma
of pickled herring

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and French fries,
you can enjoy the harbor

09:22.833 --> 09:27.066 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and the energy
of the city's port.

09:27.133 --> 09:29.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
For German Americans,
Hamburg has a special meaning,

09:29.800 --> 09:32.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
because their ancestors
likely sailed from this harbor.

09:32.833 --> 09:36.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Between 1850 and 1930,
millions of Germans

09:36.400 --> 09:39.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
emigrated to the United States
from right here.

09:39.800 --> 09:43.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The port has always been
a central feature of Hamburg.

09:43.200 --> 09:45.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
It evolves and grows
with the city's needs

09:45.633 --> 09:48.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and with changes
in shipping technology.

09:48.500 --> 09:51.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The vast Speicherstadt,
or Warehouse City,

09:51.833 --> 09:54.233 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
was originally
a seemingly endless grid

09:54.300 --> 09:58.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
of riverside warehouses.

09:58.066 --> 10:01.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Today, these buildings,
once filled with cotton, rubber,

10:01.266 --> 10:04.433 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and tobacco,
house engaging museums,

10:04.500 --> 10:08.466 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
offices,
and hip restaurants.

10:08.533 --> 10:10.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
While those venerable warehouses
survived,

10:10.966 --> 10:12.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
much of Hamburg's
old port was abandoned

10:13.033 --> 10:15.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
when the shipping industry
moved to a larger

10:15.200 --> 10:17.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and more modern port nearby.

10:17.200 --> 10:19.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Then, a generation ago,
the city realized

10:19.800 --> 10:22.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
that what had become a derelict
industrial wasteland

10:22.766 --> 10:26.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
was potentially
prime real estate.

10:26.466 --> 10:31.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The result, HafenCity, a huge
urban development project.

10:31.500 --> 10:34.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
With this new green
and integrated urban center,

10:34.300 --> 10:38.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
downtown Hamburg became
about 40 percent bigger,

10:38.533 --> 10:42.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and once again,
the city faces its river.

10:42.300 --> 10:45.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The re-energized district
seems a city in itself,

10:45.933 --> 10:47.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
mixing its maritime heritage

10:47.733 --> 10:50.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
with striking modern
architecture.

10:50.666 --> 10:53.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Worked into the plan
are both high-end condos

10:53.566 --> 10:57.633 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and affordable
subsidized housing.

10:57.700 --> 11:00.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Hamburg has created a healthy
mix of business, culture,

11:00.633 --> 11:03.600 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and leisure -- convenient for
the modern citizen

11:03.666 --> 11:06.100 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
without a car.

11:06.166 --> 11:08.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Today, city planners
from around Europe

11:08.533 --> 11:10.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
look to Hamburg for inspiration

11:10.266 --> 11:13.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in designing integrated
urban centers.

11:13.666 --> 11:16.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The centerpiece of HafenCity
is the striking

11:16.466 --> 11:19.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Elbphilharmonie,
a combination concert hall,

11:19.500 --> 11:23.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
public plaza, hotel,
and apartment complex.

11:23.633 --> 11:26.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Its daring design
and huge size fit in well

11:26.600 --> 11:28.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
with the massive scale
of the surrounding port.

11:29.033 --> 11:30.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
And, when approached by water,

11:30.833 --> 11:33.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
it resembles the looming prow
of the steamer ships

11:33.633 --> 11:38.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
that first put Hamburg
on the world map.

11:38.433 --> 11:41.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
An unforgettable capper
to a Hamburg visit

11:41.100 --> 11:44.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
is its harbor tour,
the best of its kind in Europe.

11:44.600 --> 11:47.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
You'll see plenty of Hamburg's
bold new architecture

11:47.233 --> 11:48.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
as well as its
more-established

11:48.833 --> 11:51.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
beach communities
lined with mansions.

11:51.866 --> 11:53.700 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
But mostly,
the hour-long cruise

11:53.766 --> 11:56.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
gets you up close to Hamburg's
shipping industry --

11:56.600 --> 11:58.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
all those enormous
container ships,

11:58.966 --> 12:02.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
towering cranes,
and dry docks.

12:02.933 --> 12:05.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Accommodating
12,000 vessels a year,

12:05.466 --> 12:08.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
it's Europe's second-busiest
harbor and earns the tag-line

12:08.700 --> 12:10.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
"Europe's gateway to the world

12:10.366 --> 12:12.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and the world's
gateway to Europe."

12:15.166 --> 12:18.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Germany is compact, with
an impressive infrastructure.

12:18.733 --> 12:21.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Within a few hours,
we're in Eastern Germany

12:21.266 --> 12:23.200 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
and Martin Luther country.

12:23.266 --> 12:26.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
In 1517, a German monk
Martin Luther

12:26.233 --> 12:29.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
was a professor here in the
university town of Wittenberg.

12:29.900 --> 12:32.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
As professors
routinely did back then,

12:32.200 --> 12:34.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
he tacked some points
for discussion

12:34.100 --> 12:35.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
on the door of the church,

12:35.466 --> 12:37.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
which served as a kind of
a bulletin board

12:37.233 --> 12:38.900 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
for the university community.

12:38.966 --> 12:41.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
These 95 points,
questioning practices

12:41.533 --> 12:43.266 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
of the Roman Catholic Church,

12:43.333 --> 12:45.100 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
kicked off
more than a discussion.

12:45.166 --> 12:48.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
They kicked off
the Protestant Reformation.

12:48.366 --> 12:51.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Martin Luther unleashed
a world of change.

12:51.233 --> 12:54.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The Reformation was a political
and theological storm

12:54.200 --> 12:56.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
that divided Christendom
in Western Europe

12:56.433 --> 12:59.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
into Roman Catholics
and Protestants.

12:59.500 --> 13:01.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
It ignited a century
of religious wars,

13:01.833 --> 13:04.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and, along with the humanism
of the Renaissance,

13:04.466 --> 13:06.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
it helped bring
Western civilization

13:06.566 --> 13:09.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
out of the Middle Ages
and into the modern world.

13:12.033 --> 13:14.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
2017 marks the 500th anniversary

13:14.566 --> 13:16.400 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
of the Protestant Reformation,

13:16.466 --> 13:19.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and eastern Germany is famous
for its Lutherstadts,

13:19.600 --> 13:21.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
or "Luther cities,"
and sights associated

13:22.033 --> 13:23.900 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
with that tumultuous time.

13:23.966 --> 13:27.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The three most interesting
Reformation stops are Erfurt,

13:27.666 --> 13:29.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
where Luther studied
and first became a monk,

13:29.600 --> 13:32.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Wartburg, the castle
where he famously hid out

13:32.100 --> 13:34.033 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and translated
the Bible into German,

13:34.100 --> 13:36.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and Wittenberg,
where he taught, preached,

13:36.533 --> 13:38.800 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and led the Reformation.

13:38.866 --> 13:41.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Luther went to law school
here in Erfurt,

13:41.600 --> 13:44.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and today, this half-timbered
medieval town,

13:44.333 --> 13:46.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
with a shallow river gurgling
through its center,

13:47.033 --> 13:48.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
remains a charming destination

13:49.033 --> 13:52.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
that Luther himself
would recognize.

13:52.266 --> 13:54.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Erfurt's atmospheric
Merchants' Bridge

13:54.566 --> 13:56.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
is lined with shops and homes.

13:56.833 --> 14:01.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Then as now, merchants live
upstairs above their shops.

14:01.833 --> 14:03.633 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
This is the land
of fairy tales

14:03.700 --> 14:06.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and the Brothers Grim,
fine woodcarvers

14:06.400 --> 14:08.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
and fanciful puppets.

14:08.300 --> 14:11.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
You can peek into the workshop
of Martin Gobsch.

14:11.400 --> 14:14.233 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
Observe him at work.

14:14.300 --> 14:15.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
And don't leave
without popping a coin

14:16.000 --> 14:19.200 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
into his tiny theater.

14:19.266 --> 14:24.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The evil queen welcomes you into
the dreamy world of Snow White.

14:24.500 --> 14:27.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Separate vignettes
tell the story.

14:32.433 --> 14:34.233 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
It all leads
to the happy ending

14:34.300 --> 14:39.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
when the charming prince
whisks Snow White away.

14:39.566 --> 14:42.033 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Back in 1505,
as a young student,

14:42.100 --> 14:43.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Martin Luther became a monk

14:43.566 --> 14:46.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in Erfurt's Augustinian
monastery.

14:47.033 --> 14:51.066 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
In this church
he gave his first mass.

14:51.133 --> 14:53.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Its little museum
includes Luther artifacts

14:53.833 --> 14:57.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and the simple cell
where the novice monk lived.

14:57.533 --> 15:00.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Little did they know
that this humble novice

15:00.333 --> 15:03.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
would change the course
of European history.

15:06.266 --> 15:09.400 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Nearby is Wittenberg.

15:09.466 --> 15:11.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Around 1500, the local ruler,
Frederick the Wise,

15:11.966 --> 15:14.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
was establishing
the town as his capital.

15:14.300 --> 15:16.066 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
He invited young Martin Luther

15:16.133 --> 15:18.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
to join the faculty
of his university.

15:18.700 --> 15:21.800 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The main square is dominated
by its town hall

15:21.866 --> 15:24.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and a statue remembering
the great reformer.

15:24.733 --> 15:28.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Wittenberg's top sight
is the Lutherhaus,

15:28.400 --> 15:30.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
where Luther lived.

15:30.066 --> 15:34.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Today it's an excellent museum
displaying original artifacts --

15:34.633 --> 15:36.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the pulpit from which
Luther preached,

15:36.766 --> 15:40.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
portraits of Luther
and the other reformers,

15:40.233 --> 15:43.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and the Bible Luther
boldly translated from Latin

15:43.366 --> 15:46.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
into the people's language.

15:46.133 --> 15:48.533 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
500 years ago,
the selling of forgiveness

15:48.600 --> 15:49.700 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
and church corruption

15:49.766 --> 15:52.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
stoked public discontent
with the Roman Church,

15:52.466 --> 15:54.466 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
which led to
the Reformation.

15:54.533 --> 15:56.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
This is a letter
of indulgence,

15:56.933 --> 16:00.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
one of countless fund-raising
coupons the Church issued.

16:00.366 --> 16:03.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
These were sold to the faithful
for religious favors

16:03.200 --> 16:07.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
such as reducing time for
dead loved ones in purgatory.

16:07.100 --> 16:08.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Their money would fill
boxes like this

16:09.000 --> 16:10.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and eventually ended up
in Rome to fund

16:11.033 --> 16:13.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
the pope's lavish world.

16:13.066 --> 16:15.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Corruption like this
inspired Luther

16:15.200 --> 16:17.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
to confront the Church.

16:17.666 --> 16:20.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And it was the invention
of the printing press

16:20.100 --> 16:23.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
with movable type by Guttenberg
in the same generation

16:23.133 --> 16:24.300 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
that enabled reformers

16:24.366 --> 16:27.633 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
like Luther
to spread their ideas.

16:27.700 --> 16:29.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Luther wrote in
the people's language

16:29.900 --> 16:33.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and sold more than a quarter
million booklets like these.

16:33.366 --> 16:36.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Like social media empowers
popular movements today,

16:36.266 --> 16:38.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Luther's pamphlets went viral.

16:38.366 --> 16:42.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
He was the bestselling German
writer of the 16th century.

16:42.833 --> 16:44.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The Wartburg Castle
is a popular stop

16:44.866 --> 16:46.766 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
on the Luther trail.

16:46.833 --> 16:49.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
When Luther spoke out
against Church corruption,

16:49.133 --> 16:52.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
he was declared an outlaw
and needed to run for his life.

16:52.800 --> 16:55.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
A sympathetic German prince
gave him refuge.

16:55.666 --> 16:57.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Disguised and under a fake name,

16:57.566 --> 17:00.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Luther hid out here
in this castle.

17:00.566 --> 17:02.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The actions of this
solitary monk

17:02.400 --> 17:05.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
brought far-reaching changes.

17:05.066 --> 17:06.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Believing that everyone
should be able

17:06.866 --> 17:08.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
to read the word of God,

17:08.400 --> 17:11.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Luther began the daunting
and dangerous task

17:11.600 --> 17:12.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
of translating
the New Testament

17:12.866 --> 17:16.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
from the orinal
Ancient Greek into German.

17:16.366 --> 17:18.566 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
He used simplified language,

17:18.633 --> 17:21.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
as he said, "like a mother
talking to her children."

17:21.800 --> 17:23.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Just as the King James version

17:23.366 --> 17:26.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
of the Bible did for English,
Luther's translation

17:26.233 --> 17:28.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
helped to establish
a standard German language

17:28.800 --> 17:30.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
that's used to this day.

17:30.566 --> 17:33.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Luther's translation brought
the Bible to the masses.

17:33.933 --> 17:35.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
As Germans actually
read the Bible,

17:35.766 --> 17:38.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
they saw, as Luther had,
that there was no mention

17:39.033 --> 17:42.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
of indulgences, purgatory,
or even a pope.

17:42.966 --> 17:44.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Just as the Church had feared,

17:44.633 --> 17:47.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
this further fanned
the fires of reform.

17:47.833 --> 17:49.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This part of Germany
was ground zero

17:49.933 --> 17:51.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
for the century
of religious wars

17:51.733 --> 17:54.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Luther's reforms
unwittingly unleashed.

17:58.166 --> 18:00.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
A vivid portrayal
of that tumultuous time

18:00.366 --> 18:02.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
with a intriguing
communist twist

18:02.100 --> 18:07.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
can be seen above the town
of Bad Frankenhausen.

18:07.100 --> 18:10.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
It's a huge 360 degree panoramic
painting commissioned

18:10.833 --> 18:14.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
in the 1980s by the communist
East German government.

18:17.000 --> 18:20.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The Peasant's War Panorama,
400 feet around,

18:20.266 --> 18:23.166 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
was painted
as communist propaganda.

18:23.233 --> 18:25.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
It remembers the 6,000 peasants

18:25.333 --> 18:28.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
who were slaughtered
in a single battle.

18:28.066 --> 18:29.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Armed with little
more than shovels,

18:29.733 --> 18:31.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
they rose up against the Church

18:31.400 --> 18:35.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and the ruling class
during the Reformation.

18:35.333 --> 18:39.200 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
The detail is vivid.

18:39.266 --> 18:41.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Using this popular
revolt 500 years ago,

18:42.033 --> 18:45.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
it hammers home a familiar theme
during the Cold War.

18:45.833 --> 18:47.933 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Whether 16th century peasants

18:48.000 --> 18:51.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
or 20th century workers,
the people's struggle

18:51.200 --> 18:55.566 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
is long and ongoing.

18:55.633 --> 18:59.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The panorama portrays more
than just a horrible battle.

18:59.133 --> 19:01.100 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It represents
the bloody transition

19:01.166 --> 19:04.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
between the medieval
and the modern worlds.

19:04.533 --> 19:07.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
At the base gather 20
great humanists,

19:07.500 --> 19:10.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
change agents at the end
of the Middle Ages --

19:10.700 --> 19:14.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Luther, Erasmus,
Copernicus, Columbus, and more.

19:15.033 --> 19:17.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Above them rages
the colossal battle

19:17.233 --> 19:20.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
under a rainbow,
imperial troops on the left,

19:20.300 --> 19:22.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
doomed rabble on the right.

19:22.533 --> 19:25.000 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
Nearby,
an aristocratic couple dances

19:25.066 --> 19:26.500 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
before a gallows.

19:26.566 --> 19:29.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The message --
the elites continue to win.

19:37.166 --> 19:40.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Until German unification
in the late 1800s,

19:40.100 --> 19:41.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Germany was fragmented,

19:41.600 --> 19:44.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
a collection
of small independent states.

19:44.900 --> 19:46.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
After the Reformation,

19:46.300 --> 19:49.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
those in the north
ended up Lutheran or Protestant

19:49.466 --> 19:53.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and those in the south
remained Roman Catholic.

19:53.366 --> 19:55.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
A few hours south
of Luther country

19:55.066 --> 19:57.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
takes us across
that religious divide

19:57.200 --> 20:00.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and into the enthusiastically
Catholic region of Franconia

20:00.866 --> 20:03.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and its capital city, Wurzburg.

20:03.733 --> 20:05.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Wurzburg is surrounded
by vineyards

20:05.966 --> 20:07.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
and straddles
the Main River.

20:07.866 --> 20:09.900 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Like so many German cities,

20:09.966 --> 20:12.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
it was devastated by
World War II bombs.

20:13.000 --> 20:15.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
But, while cities like Hamburg
and Frankfurt rebuilt

20:15.766 --> 20:17.266 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
on a modern grid plan,

20:17.333 --> 20:19.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Wurzburg recreated its charm

20:19.233 --> 20:22.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
by rebuilding according
to its original layout.

20:22.566 --> 20:24.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
The marketplace
is an inviting scene.

20:24.966 --> 20:28.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Its 200-year-old obelisk
features Romantic maidens

20:28.333 --> 20:31.333 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
selling their produce.

20:31.400 --> 20:35.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
And to this day, the square
still hosts a charming market.

20:40.166 --> 20:42.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This tourist-friendly town
is easy to navigate

20:42.866 --> 20:46.766 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
by foot or by streetcar.

20:46.833 --> 20:49.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Today, nearly a quarter
of its 130,000 residents

20:49.766 --> 20:53.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
are students, making the town
feel young and vibrant.

20:53.833 --> 20:55.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
The town bridge,
from the 12th century,

20:55.866 --> 20:58.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
is one of Germany's oldest.

20:58.133 --> 20:59.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Its decorated with statues

20:59.633 --> 21:02.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
of Wurzburg's favorite
saints and princes.

21:02.766 --> 21:05.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
And it's busy with people out
and enjoying the moment.

21:06.000 --> 21:10.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Scenes like this are ideal
for connecting with locals.

21:14.566 --> 21:18.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Wurzburg was the capital of
the German state of Franconia.

21:18.133 --> 21:20.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
In the 1700s, it was ruled
was a prince-bishop.

21:20.766 --> 21:23.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
He exercised both secular
and religious authority,

21:23.933 --> 21:26.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and this grand palace
was his home.

21:26.666 --> 21:28.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Opulent as a German Versailles,

21:28.866 --> 21:32.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
the prince-bishop's Residence is
the main attraction of Wurzburg.

21:32.900 --> 21:36.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Imagine VIP guests arriving
for lavish parties.

21:36.800 --> 21:38.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Met here by the prince-bishop,

21:38.533 --> 21:41.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
they'd glide gracefully up
this elegant stairway,

21:41.433 --> 21:45.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
enjoying a grand fresco
as it opens up overhead.

21:45.833 --> 21:47.700 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Dating from about 1750

21:47.766 --> 21:49.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and by the Venetian master
Tiepolo,

21:50.033 --> 21:52.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
it illustrates
the greatness of Europe

21:52.466 --> 21:55.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
with Wurzburg at its center.

21:55.733 --> 21:58.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The hero is the esteemed
prince-bishop,

21:58.333 --> 22:02.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
honored by a host of Greek
gods affirming his rule.

22:02.066 --> 22:05.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Ringing the room are allegories
of the four continents,

22:05.600 --> 22:07.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
each with a woman on an animal

22:07.533 --> 22:09.200 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and celebrating Wurzburg

22:09.266 --> 22:12.366 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
as the center
of the civilized world.

22:12.433 --> 22:15.000 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
America,
desperately uncivilized,

22:15.066 --> 22:17.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
sits naked with feathers
in her hair on an alligator

22:18.000 --> 22:21.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
among severed heads
and a cannibal barbecue.

22:23.833 --> 22:25.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Africa lounges on a camel

22:25.533 --> 22:29.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
in a land of trade
and fantasy animals.

22:29.166 --> 22:31.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Asia rides her elephant
in the birthplace

22:31.333 --> 22:34.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
of Christianity,
marked by crosses.

22:34.633 --> 22:37.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Europe is the center
of high culture,

22:37.166 --> 22:40.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and Lady Culture herself
points her brush not at Rome,

22:40.566 --> 22:43.700 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
but at Wurzburg.

22:43.766 --> 22:47.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The adjacent Imperial Hall is
a fine example of Baroque --

22:47.433 --> 22:50.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
harmony, symmetry,
light, and mirrors.

22:51.033 --> 22:53.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Its ceiling is also by Tiepolo.

22:53.500 --> 22:55.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Typical of the Baroque movement,

22:55.166 --> 22:58.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
he was a master of
three-dimensional illusion,

22:58.266 --> 22:59.500 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and he'd heighten the illusion

22:59.566 --> 23:01.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
with some fun tricks.

23:01.300 --> 23:03.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Notice how 3-D legs
and other objects

23:03.733 --> 23:06.233 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
dangle out of the 2-D frame.

23:06.300 --> 23:08.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The art, like nearly
all art of that day,

23:08.533 --> 23:10.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
was propaganda,
paid for and serving

23:11.000 --> 23:13.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
either the State or the Church.

23:13.466 --> 23:15.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
In this case, it's both.

23:15.633 --> 23:18.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Here, the Holy Roman Emperor
bestows upon

23:18.066 --> 23:21.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the bishop of Franconia
the secular title of prince.

23:21.700 --> 23:24.033 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
The bishop,
now the prince-bishop,

23:24.100 --> 23:27.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
touches the emperor's scepter,
performing an oath of loyalty.

23:27.800 --> 23:31.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
From this point onward,
the prince-bishop wears

23:31.266 --> 23:35.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
two very powerful
hats at the same time.

23:35.533 --> 23:36.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
A string of splendid rooms

23:37.000 --> 23:41.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
evolve from fancy Baroque
to fancier Rococo.

23:41.133 --> 23:44.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
It all leads to the
18th-century Mirror Cabinet.

23:44.800 --> 23:48.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This was where the prince-bishop
showed off his amazing wealth.

23:49.000 --> 23:53.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
It features kilos of gold leaf,
lots of exotic Asian influence,

23:53.933 --> 23:56.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and eye-popping extravagance.

23:56.833 --> 23:58.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
As for the commoners,

23:58.433 --> 24:01.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
we were finally allowed
inside this glorious palace

24:01.600 --> 24:03.900 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
about two centuries later.

24:09.466 --> 24:11.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
I hope you've enjoyed
our visit to dynamic Hamburg,

24:11.800 --> 24:13.666 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
the fascinating Luther cities,

24:13.733 --> 24:16.233 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
and Wurzburg,
with its Baroque charm.

24:16.300 --> 24:17.366 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
I'm Rick Steve

24:17.433 --> 24:19.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.

24:19.933 --> 24:21.800 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
Auf wiedersehen.

24:22.600 --> 24:25.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Hi, I’m Rick Steves, back with
more of the best of Europe.

24:25.533 --> 24:27.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
This time, we're in Saxony --

24:27.366 --> 24:29.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the great cities
of Dresden and Leipzig.

24:29.866 --> 24:31.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
It's eastern Germany,

24:31.300 --> 24:34.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and you're in for some
monumental travel experiences.

24:34.733 --> 24:36.066 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Thanks for joining us.

24:36.133 --> 24:39.166 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

25:07.966 --> 25:10.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Saxony is a proud region
of Germany

25:10.200 --> 25:11.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
with a long and rich history.

25:11.900 --> 25:14.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Its two leading cities
are Leipzig and Dresden.

25:15.033 --> 25:17.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Each had a tough
20th century history,

25:17.300 --> 25:20.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and today they're coming back
with a special vibrancy.

25:20.333 --> 25:22.333 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
In this episode,

25:22.400 --> 25:24.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
we'll visit
two great German cities

25:24.400 --> 25:27.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
bombed and tn rebuilt
after World War II.

25:27.800 --> 25:32.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
After visiting a beloved church
that rose from those 1945 ashes,

25:32.466 --> 25:34.133 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
we'll go further back in time

25:34.200 --> 25:36.366 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and brush up
on some Saxon history

25:36.433 --> 25:37.700 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
with its royal palaces

25:37.766 --> 25:42.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and their porcelain, jewels,
and armor.

25:43.000 --> 25:45.033 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
We'll ponder
a massive war memorial

25:45.100 --> 25:47.000 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
from the time of Napoleon.

25:47.066 --> 25:50.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Then, after peeking into
a secret police headquarters,

25:50.200 --> 25:53.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
we'll recall how people power
brought down Communism

25:53.600 --> 25:57.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
-Chanting at the top of their
voices, "We are the people."

25:57.066 --> 26:00.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-...and see how people today
are enjoying their freedom.

26:00.966 --> 26:03.033 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
After World War II,

26:03.100 --> 26:05.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Germany was divided
by the Iron Curtain

26:05.300 --> 26:08.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
into the free West
and Communist East.

26:08.566 --> 26:11.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
With the fall of Communism
in 1989,

26:11.600 --> 26:13.300 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Germany was reunited.

26:13.366 --> 26:15.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
In the historic region
of Saxony,

26:15.600 --> 26:19.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
we tour Dresden and Leipzig.

26:19.733 --> 26:21.600 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
We start in Dresden

26:21.666 --> 26:23.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
with fanciful
Baroque architecture

26:23.333 --> 26:25.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and some of the best
museum-going in all of Germany.

26:25.733 --> 26:27.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It's a city that mixes
a dynamic history

26:28.033 --> 26:30.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
with a delightful-to-stroll
cityscape.

26:30.333 --> 26:33.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
At the peak of its power
in the 18th century,

26:33.233 --> 26:35.033 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
this wealthy capital of Saxony

26:35.100 --> 26:37.166 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
ruled much of eastern Germany

26:37.233 --> 26:40.966 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
from the banks
of the Elbe River.

26:41.033 --> 26:44.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Saxony's greatest ruler
was Augustus the Strong.

26:44.633 --> 26:46.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
To embellish his capital,

26:46.166 --> 26:48.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
he imported artists
from all over Europe,

26:48.733 --> 26:50.200 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
especially from Italy.

26:52.100 --> 26:55.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Dresden's grand architecture
and dedication to the arts

26:55.200 --> 26:58.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
earned it the nickname
"Florence on the Elbe."

27:01.200 --> 27:02.766 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
In spite of its resurgence,

27:02.833 --> 27:06.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Dresden is still known for
its destruction in World War II.

27:06.266 --> 27:08.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
American and British planes
firebombed the city

27:08.800 --> 27:11.966 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
on the night
of February 13, 1945.

27:12.033 --> 27:13.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
The bombing was so fierce

27:13.633 --> 27:16.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
it created its own climate --
a "fire storm."

27:16.500 --> 27:19.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
More than 25,000 people were
killed in just one night,

27:19.833 --> 27:23.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and 75% of the historic center
was destroyed.

27:23.733 --> 27:27.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Memorials, while understated,
remember the horror of war.

27:27.900 --> 27:31.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
This simple inscription recalls
that after the air raids,

27:31.433 --> 27:36.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
"the bodies of 6,865 people
killed in the bombing

27:36.133 --> 27:39.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
were burnt on this spot."

27:39.233 --> 27:41.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
For 40 years,
through the Cold War,

27:41.200 --> 27:43.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dresden was part
of Communist East Germany.

27:43.766 --> 27:46.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
It was in what was called
"the Valley of the Clueless" --

27:46.266 --> 27:48.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
one of the only places
in East Germany

27:48.066 --> 27:50.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
that didn't get
Western television.

27:50.433 --> 27:51.566 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Under the Communists,

27:51.633 --> 27:54.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dresden restored
some of its damaged buildings,

27:54.266 --> 27:55.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
left others in ruins,

27:55.800 --> 27:59.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and replaced many with modern,
utilitarian sprawl.

27:59.333 --> 28:01.800 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
Prager Street,

28:01.866 --> 28:04.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
a bombed-out ruins
until the 1960s,

28:04.766 --> 28:08.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
was rebuilt as a showcase
for Communist ideals.

28:08.533 --> 28:11.733 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
Its vast,
uniform apartment blocks

28:11.800 --> 28:14.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
goose-step up the boulevard
to this day.

28:14.300 --> 28:17.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
The design is typical
of Soviet-Bloc architecture --

28:18.000 --> 28:20.000 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
from Moscow to Bucharest.

28:20.066 --> 28:22.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Today, after a thorough update,

28:22.866 --> 28:25.933 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
they've become
desirable places to live.

28:28.166 --> 28:29.700 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
After German reunification,

28:29.766 --> 28:31.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the rebuilding of Dresden
accelerated.

28:31.866 --> 28:34.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
The transformation
has been impressive,

28:34.366 --> 28:36.900 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and the city's
once devastated historic center

28:36.966 --> 28:40.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
has been reconstructed.

28:40.400 --> 28:43.333 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The Frauenkirche,
or Church of Our Lady,

28:43.400 --> 28:45.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
is the symbol and soul
of the city.

28:45.900 --> 28:48.400 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
When completed in 1743,

28:48.466 --> 28:51.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
this was Germany's
tallest Protestant church.

28:52.000 --> 28:56.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Then, in February of 1945,
after the city was bombed,

28:56.433 --> 29:00.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
in the last months of the war,
the Frauenkirche collapsed.

29:00.800 --> 29:04.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
For a generation, it lay there,
a pile of rubble.

29:04.200 --> 29:06.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Then, Dresdeners
decided to rebuild it

29:06.666 --> 29:09.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
completely and painstakingly.

29:09.366 --> 29:11.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
With the help
of international donations,

29:11.566 --> 29:13.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Dresden's most beloved church
was rebuilt

29:13.866 --> 29:18.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and finally reopened
to the public in 2005.

29:18.200 --> 29:21.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Stepping inside,
you're struck by the shape --

29:21.366 --> 29:24.966 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
not so wide but very tall.

29:25.033 --> 29:27.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
The color scheme is pastel,

29:27.366 --> 29:29.633 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
to emphasize the joy of faith

29:29.700 --> 29:31.533 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
and enhance
the uplifting atmosphere

29:31.600 --> 29:33.900 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
of the services held here.

29:33.966 --> 29:38.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The curves help create
a feeling of community.

29:38.266 --> 29:39.633 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
A Lutheran church,

29:39.700 --> 29:42.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
but built at the peak
of the Baroque period,

29:42.366 --> 29:44.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
it seems the artistic style
of the age

29:44.700 --> 29:48.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
trumped the Lutheran taste
for simplicity.

29:48.500 --> 29:51.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
The church's twisted old cross,

29:51.566 --> 29:54.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
which fell 300 feet
from the tip of the dome

29:54.366 --> 29:56.000 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and burned in the rubble,

29:56.066 --> 29:59.033 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
caps an inspirational story.

29:59.100 --> 30:02.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Climbing to the top of the
beautifully reconstructed dome,

30:02.533 --> 30:03.766 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
you're rewarded

30:03.833 --> 30:07.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
with a commanding view
over Dresden and its river.

30:16.833 --> 30:20.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The rebirth of the city
is evident everywhere.

30:20.333 --> 30:22.466 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
This central square

30:22.533 --> 30:25.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
was once ringed by the homes
of rich merchants.

30:25.666 --> 30:29.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
It's once again
the heart of the city,

30:29.066 --> 30:33.400 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
alive with people and cafés.

30:33.466 --> 30:35.400 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Dresden's delightful terrace

30:35.466 --> 30:37.700 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
was originally
a defensive rampart.

30:37.766 --> 30:42.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Today, it's a welcoming
promenade overlooking the Elbe.

30:42.700 --> 30:45.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Its nickname --
"The Balcony of Europe."

30:45.866 --> 30:48.000 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
And a fleet
of 19th century paddleboats

30:48.066 --> 30:51.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
tempts visitors
for a lazy river cruise.

30:51.500 --> 30:54.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Getting around the city
by tram is easy,

30:54.966 --> 30:57.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and a quick ride over the river

30:57.800 --> 30:59.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
takes us into a lively district

30:59.733 --> 31:02.633 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
called Neustadt,
or "the New town."

31:02.700 --> 31:06.366 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Its inviting
and tree-lined main drag,

31:06.433 --> 31:10.166 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Hauptstrasse, opened in 1979.

31:10.233 --> 31:13.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
It was a showpiece
of Communist urban design --

31:13.266 --> 31:16.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
a landscaped,
utopian workers' district

31:16.533 --> 31:20.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
filled with affordable
apartments and the best shops.

31:22.200 --> 31:26.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Because World War II bombs
missed most of this district,

31:26.133 --> 31:29.833 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
the New Town has a retro charm.

31:29.900 --> 31:31.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
This well-worn area has emerged

31:31.700 --> 31:34.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
as the city's
trendy people zone.

31:34.333 --> 31:36.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Passages between apartment flats

31:36.233 --> 31:38.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
are enlivened by art galleries,
cozy pubs,

31:38.766 --> 31:41.566 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
and crazy decorations.

31:44.000 --> 31:46.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
While the New Town
boasts no great sights,

31:46.766 --> 31:50.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
it's fun to explore,
especially after dark.

31:53.400 --> 31:55.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
The Parade of Nobles is a mural

31:55.866 --> 31:59.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
painted on 24,000 tiles
of local pcelain.

31:59.833 --> 32:02.733 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
It was built
to soothe the pride of Saxony

32:02.800 --> 32:04.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
after it was incorporated

32:04.566 --> 32:06.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
into the newly formed country
of Germany

32:06.766 --> 32:08.933 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
in the 1870s.

32:09.000 --> 32:11.900 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It celebrates
Dresden's Saxon heritage

32:11.966 --> 32:13.666 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and its Wettin family dynasty.

32:13.733 --> 32:16.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The artist carefully studied
armor and clothing,

32:16.900 --> 32:20.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
accurately tracing the evolution
of weaponry and fashions

32:20.500 --> 32:23.066 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
through the centuries.

32:23.133 --> 32:26.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Way up at the very front
of the parade,

32:26.333 --> 32:29.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
an announcer with a band
and 12th-century cheerleaders

32:29.600 --> 32:34.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
excitedly heralds the arrival
of this wondrous procession.

32:34.266 --> 32:35.566 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
There are commoners --

32:35.633 --> 32:40.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
from miners and farmers
to carpenters and students.

32:40.700 --> 32:42.866 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
And ahead of them, the royals,

32:42.933 --> 32:44.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
with 35 names and dates

32:44.900 --> 32:48.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
marking 700 years
of Wettin family rule.

32:48.233 --> 32:52.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
At the year 1694
stands Augustus the Strong,

32:52.766 --> 32:57.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
the most important
of the Saxon kings.

32:57.733 --> 32:58.900 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
The Saxon ruler

32:58.966 --> 33:01.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
was one of the most powerful
people in Germany.

33:01.466 --> 33:02.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
He one of a handful of nobles

33:02.900 --> 33:05.200 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
who elected
the Holy Roman Emperor.

33:05.266 --> 33:06.566 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
In the 18th century,

33:06.633 --> 33:08.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
the larger-than-life
Augustus the Strong

33:09.033 --> 33:11.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
kicked off Saxony's Golden Age.

33:11.433 --> 33:14.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
His royal festival complex,
called the Zwinger,

33:14.966 --> 33:17.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
is an example
of how the king's extravagance

33:17.566 --> 33:20.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
made Dresden
a European capital of culture.

33:20.366 --> 33:22.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Here at the Nymphs' Bath,

33:22.233 --> 33:27.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
aristocrats relaxed with royals
among cascading waterfalls.

33:27.300 --> 33:31.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Today, the Zwinger
is filled with fine museums.

33:31.266 --> 33:33.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
The Mathematics
and Physics Salon

33:33.166 --> 33:37.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
features scientific gadgets
from the 16th to 19th century.

33:37.366 --> 33:41.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Finely crafted and incorporating
new discoveries with exuberance,

33:41.333 --> 33:46.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the instruments are displayed
like dazzling works of art.

33:46.800 --> 33:50.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Imagine whipping out your
pocket sundial in the year 1700,

33:50.466 --> 33:53.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
or a new-fangled packet watch
in 1760 --

33:53.900 --> 33:56.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
with a risqué painting.

33:56.433 --> 33:58.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
This calculator from 1650,

33:58.333 --> 34:01.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
claiming to be the oldest
surviving mechanical calculator,

34:01.266 --> 34:03.566 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
could carry the tens.

34:03.633 --> 34:05.133 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
European royal families

34:05.200 --> 34:07.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
aspired to have
their own porcelain works.

34:07.600 --> 34:09.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And the Wettin family
had one of the best

34:09.966 --> 34:11.500 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
at nearby Meissen.

34:11.566 --> 34:16.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
In those days, a king portrayed
in porcelain was a happy king.

34:16.433 --> 34:20.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Augustus the Strong
was obsessed with the stuff.

34:20.600 --> 34:24.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
He liked to say
he had "porcelain sickness."

34:24.833 --> 34:27.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Here you can enjoy
some of his symptoms

34:27.166 --> 34:30.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
under chandeliers
in elegant galleries.

34:30.066 --> 34:32.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
You'll see fine table settings.

34:32.600 --> 34:34.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
He had a veritable porcelain zoo

34:34.733 --> 34:38.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
of exotic animals
and beautiful birds.

34:38.066 --> 34:42.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
According to legend,
for 151 of these Chinese vases,

34:42.800 --> 34:45.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Augustus traded 600 soldiers,
complete with horses,

34:45.966 --> 34:47.300 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
to Prussia.

34:47.366 --> 34:48.966 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
And here at the Zwinger,

34:49.033 --> 34:50.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
it just makes sense
that the glockenspiel

34:51.000 --> 34:54.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
comes with 40 bells
made of Meissen porcelain.

34:54.566 --> 34:58.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The delightful chimes are far
sweeter than your typical bell.

34:58.066 --> 35:00.266 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
[ Chimes playing ]

35:04.433 --> 35:06.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
In the nearby royal palace,

35:06.533 --> 35:09.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the official residence
of Saxon rulers since 1485,

35:10.000 --> 35:12.766 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
is Dresden's
historic Green Vault.

35:12.833 --> 35:15.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
This glittering
Baroque treasure collection

35:15.633 --> 35:18.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
is the sightseeing highlight
of the city.

35:18.633 --> 35:21.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The collection was begun
by Augustus the Strong --

35:21.633 --> 35:24.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
featured here surrounded
by ancient Roman emperors

35:24.300 --> 35:27.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
on the base of an obelisk.

35:27.766 --> 35:30.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
It grew into the royal family's
exquisite trove

35:30.633 --> 35:33.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
of ivory, silver,
and gold treasures,

35:33.833 --> 35:38.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
displayed in rooms as opulent
as the collection itself.

35:40.133 --> 35:43.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Its purpose --
a synthesis of the arts

35:43.066 --> 35:46.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
as an expression of wealth
and absolute power.

35:48.833 --> 35:51.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The Amber Cabinet
shows off what you can do

35:51.633 --> 35:53.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
with fossilized tree sap --

35:53.366 --> 35:58.066 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
for example,
this exquisite bowl from 1659.

35:58.133 --> 36:01.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The Ivory Room does the same
for elephant tusks,

36:01.700 --> 36:05.500 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
with some
strikingly delicate carving.

36:05.566 --> 36:07.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
In this amazing ivory frigate,

36:07.833 --> 36:11.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
tiny sailors climb
the gold wire rigging,

36:11.166 --> 36:14.300 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
all supported
by Neptune and his horses.

36:17.333 --> 36:20.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
In the aptly named
Hall of Precious Objects,

36:20.466 --> 36:21.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
amid mother-of-pearl,

36:21.800 --> 36:24.633 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
ostrich-egg,
and snail-shell goblets,

36:24.700 --> 36:27.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
is the ultimate coffee service.

36:27.133 --> 36:31.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This golden coffee service
from 1700

36:31.266 --> 36:33.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
is pure gold iced with enamel,

36:34.033 --> 36:36.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
crusted with thousands
of precious stones,

36:36.833 --> 36:41.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and crowned by a coffee pot
filled with symbolism.

36:41.566 --> 36:44.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Coffee was exotic
and trendy back then,

36:44.100 --> 36:46.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and this extravagant
centerpiece,

36:46.266 --> 36:49.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
while never actually used
to serve coffee,

36:49.166 --> 36:52.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
certainly made an impression.

36:52.800 --> 36:54.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
This captivating ensemble

36:55.000 --> 36:57.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
depicts a Grand Mogul
on his birthday.

36:57.766 --> 37:01.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
He ruled India
when Augustus ruled Saxony.

37:01.500 --> 37:03.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
And among earth's rulers,

37:03.633 --> 37:06.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
he was the embodiment
of absolute power

37:06.533 --> 37:07.900 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
and endless wealth.

37:07.966 --> 37:10.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Like royal Legos
on a silver stage,

37:10.500 --> 37:13.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the figures, made of gold
and glazed with enamel,

37:13.700 --> 37:17.000 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
were movable
for the king's pleasure.

37:17.066 --> 37:20.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
And the finale,
in a place all its own,

37:20.100 --> 37:22.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
is this dazzling green diamond,

37:22.766 --> 37:27.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
one of the largest
ever discovered.

37:27.533 --> 37:29.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
The adjacent Royal Armory

37:29.566 --> 37:34.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
fills a long room
with centuries-old armor.

37:34.066 --> 37:35.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
The biggest space in the palace,

37:35.766 --> 37:38.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
this room was the scene
of medieval war games.

37:38.966 --> 37:41.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Today, its exhibits
of jousting models

37:41.300 --> 37:45.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
recall those breathtaking
pageants of the 16th century.

37:45.466 --> 37:48.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Back then, jousting was
something rich guys did

37:48.066 --> 37:49.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
when there was no war to fight.

37:49.966 --> 37:52.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The collection
offers an unusual chance

37:52.400 --> 37:54.733 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
to see armor
not standing at attention

37:54.800 --> 37:57.100 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
but displayed in action.

37:57.166 --> 37:58.666 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
This ensemble --

37:58.733 --> 38:01.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
designed for formal parades,
not actual battle --

38:01.233 --> 38:04.166 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
is considered
the prize of the collection.

38:06.233 --> 38:09.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And the little princes
needed their armor, as well.

38:15.766 --> 38:18.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Connecting German towns
is easy these days

38:18.666 --> 38:20.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
on the country's
fine train system.

38:20.666 --> 38:23.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
And after a relaxing hour or two
on the train,

38:23.533 --> 38:25.866 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
we arrive in Leipzig.

38:30.633 --> 38:32.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Leipzig once had
the cobblestoned charm

38:32.900 --> 38:34.900 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
of many other German cities.

38:34.966 --> 38:38.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
But long a leading trade center,
in the late 19th century,

38:38.633 --> 38:41.533 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
city leaders
decided to modernize.

38:41.600 --> 38:44.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
They replaced
the quaint medieval townscape

38:44.500 --> 38:47.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
with a grid of grand
and efficient buildings

38:47.433 --> 38:51.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
dedicated to trade and commerce.

38:51.366 --> 38:55.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
World War II bombs
destroyed much of Leipzig,

38:55.266 --> 38:59.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
and the Communists followed that
with four decades of neglect.

38:59.466 --> 39:03.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
That left the town center
a dreary urban wasteland.

39:03.733 --> 39:06.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
But in the generation
since 1989,

39:06.333 --> 39:10.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the people of Leipzig have
dramatically remade their city.

39:10.833 --> 39:14.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Augustusplatz
is a busy people zone

39:14.466 --> 39:18.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and a hub for the city's trams.

39:18.100 --> 39:20.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Overlooking that
is the university center,

39:20.666 --> 39:22.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
rebuilt in a playful
and modern echo

39:23.000 --> 39:26.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of the pre-war buildings
that once stood here.

39:26.500 --> 39:29.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Towering high above
is a skyscraper,

39:30.033 --> 39:32.266 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
built in the 1970s.

39:32.333 --> 39:37.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
An erection like this was
a big deal in Communist times.

39:37.166 --> 39:40.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Locals and tourists alike
gather on its rooftop terrace

39:40.933 --> 39:43.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
to enjoy a drink
and the best view in town.

39:46.966 --> 39:49.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
As they rebuilt the city center,
one feature that survived

39:49.900 --> 39:52.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
was the tradition
of inviting shopping galleries

39:53.033 --> 39:54.766 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
that burrow
through office blocks.

39:54.833 --> 39:58.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Some of the galleries
retain an Old World elegance

39:58.466 --> 40:01.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
with venerable shops
and restaurants.

40:01.166 --> 40:05.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Others are playfully decorated
by contemporary local artists.

40:08.366 --> 40:11.133 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
Leipzig's
Renaissance-style Town Hall,

40:11.200 --> 40:15.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
with its fine arcade,
overlooks the Market Square.

40:15.200 --> 40:17.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Tonight the fruit
and vegetable merchants

40:17.933 --> 40:20.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
have made way
for a big open-air concert

40:20.333 --> 40:21.333 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
with music...

40:21.400 --> 40:23.700 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

40:23.766 --> 40:26.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
-♪ You can leave your hat on ♪

40:26.533 --> 40:31.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-...and lots of sausages,
kraut, and beer.

40:31.533 --> 40:34.433 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
As a traveler, don't be shy.

40:34.500 --> 40:37.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Share a table
and strike up a conversation.

40:37.633 --> 40:41.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
An event like this is
a perfect chance to meet locals.

40:41.466 --> 40:43.866 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
[ Cheers and applause ]

40:47.366 --> 40:50.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
[ Organ playing
classical music ]

40:50.533 --> 40:53.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Leipzig is famous
for its music heritage.

40:53.333 --> 40:54.800 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
It was the hometown

40:54.866 --> 40:57.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
of the great composer
Johann Sebastian Bach,

40:57.566 --> 41:01.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
shown here with his favorite
instrument, the pipe organ.

41:01.600 --> 41:03.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
In the early 1700s,

41:03.066 --> 41:05.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Bach was the organist
and choirmaster

41:05.866 --> 41:08.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
right here at St. Thomas Church.

41:08.233 --> 41:11.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Inside, the clean,
stripped-down interior

41:11.566 --> 41:13.533 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
reflects
the Protestant aesthetic

41:13.600 --> 41:16.233 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
of an uncluttered church.

41:16.300 --> 41:19.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Stained glass celebrates
how in 1539,

41:19.533 --> 41:21.166 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Martin Luther came here

41:21.233 --> 41:24.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
to perform Leipzig's
first Protestant service

41:24.166 --> 41:28.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and how, for nearly 30 years,
Bach directed the boys' choir.

41:28.466 --> 41:31.966 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Bach's tomb,
adorned with flowers,

41:32.033 --> 41:35.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
is like a pilgrimage
for music lovers.

41:39.200 --> 41:42.166 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Leipzig remembers
its tough 20th century

41:42.233 --> 41:43.466 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
with a little whimsy.

41:43.533 --> 41:46.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
This statue represents
how East Germany endured

41:46.533 --> 41:49.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
two harsh dictatorships
in succession --

41:49.566 --> 41:52.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the flat-palmed "Sieg Heil!"
of the Nazis

41:52.133 --> 41:55.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and the proletariat's raised
fist from the Communist era.

41:56.000 --> 41:57.266 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
This poor fellow,

41:57.333 --> 42:00.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
repressed by both regimes
with his head scrunched down,

42:00.833 --> 42:04.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
seems to represent
individuality under siege.

42:04.600 --> 42:07.566 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Somehow,
he'll get through it all.

42:07.633 --> 42:09.133 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
To learn more,

42:09.200 --> 42:11.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
step into Leipzig's
Contemporary History Museum,

42:11.933 --> 42:15.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
which tells the 44-year story
of Communism in East Germany.

42:15.266 --> 42:18.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
After the devastation
of World War II,

42:18.066 --> 42:20.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the line between
East and West was drawn,

42:21.033 --> 42:24.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and Leipzig ended up
in Stalin's camp.

42:24.400 --> 42:26.700 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
In those
desperate post-war years,

42:26.766 --> 42:28.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
the stability and security

42:28.833 --> 42:31.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
provided by East Germany's
Communist government

42:31.166 --> 42:32.233 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
was appreciated.

42:32.300 --> 42:35.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Out of the squalor
came a forced uniformity,

42:35.633 --> 42:40.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
and, if you played by the rules,
life was not miserable.

42:40.500 --> 42:42.900 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Housing was a major priority,

42:42.966 --> 42:45.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
as so many were homeless
after the war.

42:45.600 --> 42:48.300 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Locals recall
how there wasn't a lot,

42:48.366 --> 42:50.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
but people had what they needed.

42:50.800 --> 42:54.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Generally what they had
was what their neighbors had.

42:54.133 --> 42:57.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Children all had
the same blocks, books,

42:57.433 --> 42:59.166 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and cuddly stuffed pets.

42:59.233 --> 43:01.166 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
Western pop music,

43:01.233 --> 43:04.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
while reined in and certainly
controlled, was allowed,

43:04.400 --> 43:08.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
from the Beatles to Jethro Tull.

43:09.000 --> 43:13.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
But of course, people
eventually insist on freedom.

43:13.333 --> 43:14.666 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
To learn more,

43:14.733 --> 43:18.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
I'm joined by Leipzig tour guide
Gisa Schoenfeld.

43:18.933 --> 43:22.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The hated secret police force
in Communist East Germany

43:22.566 --> 43:24.866 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
was the Stasi.

43:24.933 --> 43:27.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Its old headquarters
now houses a museum

43:27.433 --> 43:30.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
dedicated to telling
the Stasi's dirty deeds.

43:30.333 --> 43:32.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
It offers a fascinating look

43:32.566 --> 43:34.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
at what it took
to control the people.

43:35.033 --> 43:36.866 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
-This is the symbol

43:36.933 --> 43:39.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
for the Ministry
for State Security,

43:39.666 --> 43:41.700 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Staatssicherheit, Stasi.

43:41.766 --> 43:43.866 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
-Stasi, state security.

43:43.933 --> 43:47.333 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Modeled after the Soviet Union's
secret police,

43:47.400 --> 43:48.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
the notorious KGB,

43:48.833 --> 43:51.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
the Stasi recruited
over half a million informants

43:51.833 --> 43:53.933 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
from every walk of life.

43:54.000 --> 43:58.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
It collected mountains of data
on its citizens.

43:58.266 --> 44:01.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
The former offices
contain tools of the trade --

44:01.866 --> 44:04.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
a small camera that could be
concealed in a briefcase;

44:04.733 --> 44:06.366 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
easy-to-hide microphones,

44:06.433 --> 44:08.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
including one hidden
in a button;

44:08.566 --> 44:12.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
disguises, and forged documents.

44:12.200 --> 44:16.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-The Stasi officers set people
on chairs with a piece of cloth,

44:16.933 --> 44:19.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and the piece of cloth
would absorb the smell

44:19.633 --> 44:22.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
when the suspects sweated
during the interrogation.

44:22.600 --> 44:25.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
And then they placed the cloth
into these jars,

44:25.500 --> 44:26.800 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
preserving the smell.

44:26.866 --> 44:28.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And whenever something
suspicious turned up --

44:29.033 --> 44:30.066 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
for example, a leaflet --

44:30.133 --> 44:31.333 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
they brought in the dogs.

44:31.400 --> 44:34.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The dogs smelled the item,
then smelled the jars.

44:34.600 --> 44:36.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-So the dogs
would match the smell?

44:36.366 --> 44:38.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And that would be enough
to send somebody to jail?

44:38.200 --> 44:39.166 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
-That would be enough.

44:39.233 --> 44:40.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
-All mail and packages

44:41.033 --> 44:43.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
coming into the country
was searched.

44:43.066 --> 44:46.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
These machines enabled agents
to steam letters open,

44:46.400 --> 44:49.200 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
read them, then reseal them.

44:49.266 --> 44:52.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The Stasi stole millions
in West German hard currency,

44:52.900 --> 44:57.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
sent to struggling East Germans
by West German relatives.

44:57.066 --> 44:59.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And they confiscated
piles of cassette tapes

44:59.666 --> 45:02.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
which contained forbidden
Western pop music.

45:02.266 --> 45:04.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
These cassettes
which were then reused

45:04.666 --> 45:07.366 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
to record
interrogation sessions.

45:07.433 --> 45:10.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
After freedom, people were free
to look at their personal files?

45:10.533 --> 45:13.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Yes, but it was was
an agonizing decision to make.

45:13.600 --> 45:16.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The Stasi had hundreds
and thousands of informants,

45:16.566 --> 45:18.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
so there were colleagues,
friends, family members

45:18.833 --> 45:20.666 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
spying on people,

45:20.733 --> 45:23.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and then it was
very difficult to choose.

45:23.233 --> 45:24.233 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Do I want to know

45:24.300 --> 45:26.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
what information
the Stasi kept on me,

45:26.566 --> 45:29.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
but I would also find out
who spied on me.

45:29.900 --> 45:31.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-So you could look at your file,

45:31.400 --> 45:33.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
but you might find your uncle
was informing on you,

45:33.833 --> 45:35.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and maybe you just
better not go there.

45:35.633 --> 45:37.000 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Exactly.

45:37.066 --> 45:39.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-Leipzig's beloved
St. Nicholas Church

45:39.733 --> 45:41.166 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
played a pivotal role

45:41.233 --> 45:43.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
in the people's successful fight
for freedom.

45:43.333 --> 45:46.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
In the 1980s,
this venerable church

45:46.466 --> 45:49.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
hosted weekly prayer meetings
for peace.

45:49.433 --> 45:50.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
These turned political,

45:50.900 --> 45:53.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
making St. Nicholas
a staging ground

45:53.233 --> 45:54.833 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
for the Peaceful Revolution

45:54.900 --> 45:58.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
that would ultimately topple
the Communist regime.

45:58.800 --> 46:00.266 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
A column in the church square

46:00.333 --> 46:03.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
celebrates the church's
contribution to German freedom.

46:04.000 --> 46:08.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
So eventually these Monday
prayer services for peace

46:08.200 --> 46:10.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
spilled out of the church
and into the city at large?

46:10.666 --> 46:13.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-Yes, they got bigger and bigger
every week.

46:13.233 --> 46:15.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The largest demonstration
here in Leipzig

46:15.166 --> 46:17.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
was 450,000 protesters.

46:17.666 --> 46:19.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
But they all remained peaceful,

46:19.400 --> 46:21.566 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
and that's
the biggest accomplishment.

46:21.633 --> 46:23.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
That's why there was
no reason to shoot them.

46:23.966 --> 46:25.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
-So, what eventually happened?

46:25.433 --> 46:27.766 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-Eventually,
the wall came down in Berlin,

46:27.833 --> 46:29.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and the borders were opened,

46:29.366 --> 46:30.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and the people had gained
their freedom.

46:30.800 --> 46:32.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
-The Peaceful Revolution.

46:32.566 --> 46:33.633 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
-Very much so.

46:33.700 --> 46:35.600 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
[ Tram bell dings ]

46:35.666 --> 46:36.933 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
-Just outside of Leipzig

46:37.000 --> 46:40.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
is a gigantic monument
to an earlier struggle.

46:40.200 --> 46:43.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
It commemorates
a pivotal battle in 1813

46:43.800 --> 46:47.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
that involved forces
from all over Europe.

46:47.300 --> 46:49.333 align:start position:42.5% line:79.33% size:15%
Called
The Battle of the Nations,

46:49.400 --> 46:51.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
it pitted France's army
under Napoleon

46:51.900 --> 46:53.200 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
against a coalition

46:53.266 --> 46:57.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
of Prussian, Austrian, Russian,
and Swedish fighters.

46:57.700 --> 47:00.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
With a half a million soldiers
and 100,000 casualties,

47:00.933 --> 47:03.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
it was the largest battle
in European history

47:03.366 --> 47:04.500 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
until World War I.

47:04.566 --> 47:06.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Battle of the Nations
marked a turning point

47:06.833 --> 47:08.166 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
in the fight against Napoleon.

47:08.233 --> 47:11.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
He was routed here
and forced to retreat to France.

47:11.466 --> 47:15.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Basically, it was Germans who
turned back the French invaders.

47:15.233 --> 47:18.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And exactly a century later,
in 1913,

47:18.266 --> 47:20.400 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
during a surge of nationalism

47:20.466 --> 47:22.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
following the unification
of Germany,

47:22.533 --> 47:25.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Leipzig inaugurated
this towering memorial

47:25.166 --> 47:28.033 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
on the site
of this bloody battle.

47:28.100 --> 47:30.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
The Archangel Michael
straddles the main door

47:30.933 --> 47:32.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
with the same message

47:32.166 --> 47:34.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
that accompanies
most military monuments --

47:34.633 --> 47:38.300 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
"God is on our side."

47:38.366 --> 47:39.900 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Entering the monument,

47:39.966 --> 47:42.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
you stand under
a towering atrium.

47:42.666 --> 47:46.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
It's ringed by more soldiers,
in front of giant death masks,

47:47.000 --> 47:48.733 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
heads respectfully bowed

47:48.800 --> 47:52.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
to honor the sacrifice
of those lost in battle.

47:52.133 --> 47:55.866 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
Above them,
four enormous statues

47:55.933 --> 48:00.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
represent the virtues of the
German people during wartime.

48:00.900 --> 48:03.533 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
And high above, in the dome,

48:03.600 --> 48:07.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
hundreds of life-sized soldiers
on horses return from battle.

48:09.833 --> 48:13.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
It feels religious,
but it's strikingly secular --

48:13.833 --> 48:16.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
a powerful monument
to more than a battle,

48:16.500 --> 48:18.766 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
to the power of nationalism

48:18.833 --> 48:22.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and to the fact that
war leaves even the winners

48:22.633 --> 48:25.066 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
saddled with grief.

48:29.033 --> 48:31.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Traveling through Saxony
with its rich heritage,

48:31.500 --> 48:33.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
exquisite culture,
and hard lessons,

48:33.533 --> 48:35.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
it's an inspiration
to see the accomplishments

48:36.000 --> 48:38.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
of the people
of Dresden and Leipzig.

48:38.466 --> 48:40.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Thanks for traveling with us.
I'm Rick Steves.

48:40.933 --> 48:43.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.

48:43.466 --> 48:44.766 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
Auf wiedersehen.

48:47.500 --> 48:48.800 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
-Hi. I'm Rick Steves,

48:48.866 --> 48:50.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
back with more
of the best of Europe.

48:50.733 --> 48:52.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
And this time, we're cooking up

48:52.166 --> 48:54.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
some unforgettable
German treats --

48:54.266 --> 48:57.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
and that includes
my favorite sausage anywhere --

48:57.100 --> 48:58.333 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
Danke schoen.

48:58.400 --> 49:01.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
We're in Frankrt and Nurnberg.
Thanks for joining us.

49:01.766 --> 49:04.633 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

49:33.766 --> 49:36.000 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Germany is
Europe's economic powerhouse,

49:36.066 --> 49:38.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
and you feel that
in its great cities,

49:38.266 --> 49:39.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
like Frankfurt and Nurnberg.

49:40.033 --> 49:41.233 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
These are examples

49:41.300 --> 49:43.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
of how Germany has put
the 20th century behind it

49:43.800 --> 49:46.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and learned that the most
effective way to be powerful

49:46.633 --> 49:48.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
is to be constructive.

49:48.433 --> 49:51.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
In Frankfurt,
a city of contrasts,

49:51.266 --> 49:53.533 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
we see today's Germany --

49:53.600 --> 49:56.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
a vibrant mix
of the new and the old

49:56.400 --> 49:58.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
sprinkled with
people-friendly zones,

49:58.466 --> 50:01.766 align:start position:42.5% line:79.33% size:15%
parks,
and a stunning riverfront.

50:01.833 --> 50:03.366 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
Then, in Nurnberg,

50:03.433 --> 50:06.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
we marvel at remnants
of Germany's First Reich

50:06.233 --> 50:08.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
with the Holy Roman Emperor's
castle

50:08.266 --> 50:10.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and we learn of Hitler
and the Third Reich

50:10.833 --> 50:14.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
with the architecture
of a megalomaniac.

50:14.100 --> 50:15.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Finally, we go underground

50:16.000 --> 50:18.700 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
for a peek
at history seldom seen.

50:18.766 --> 50:21.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Dominating the north of Europe
is Germany,

50:21.533 --> 50:23.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
the size of Montana.

50:23.066 --> 50:26.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
We start where many
trans-Atlantic flights stop,

50:26.333 --> 50:27.633 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
in Frankfurt,

50:27.700 --> 50:31.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and then travel
a couple hours to Nurnberg.

50:31.166 --> 50:33.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
For an honest look
at today's Germany,

50:33.633 --> 50:36.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
travelers need to venture
beyond the ruined castles

50:36.866 --> 50:38.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and cute cobbled towns.

50:38.400 --> 50:40.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Frankfurt may be low
on Old World charm,

50:40.700 --> 50:44.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
but it offers a great look
at no-nonsense, modern Germany.

50:44.666 --> 50:47.133 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Ever since
the early Middle Ages,

50:47.200 --> 50:50.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
people have gathered here
to trade.

50:50.233 --> 50:53.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Today, cosmopolitan Frankfurt,
nicknamed "Bankfurt,"

50:53.833 --> 50:56.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
is a trading hub
of a united Europe,

50:56.400 --> 50:58.900 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
home to
the European Central Bank

50:58.966 --> 51:02.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and a center
for global commerce.

51:02.966 --> 51:06.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
With its trading heritage came
people from around the world.

51:06.200 --> 51:09.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
You'll notice the strikingly
multi-ethnic flavor of the city.

51:09.833 --> 51:12.600 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
A quarter
of its 700,000 residents

51:12.666 --> 51:14.666 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
carry foreign passports.

51:14.733 --> 51:17.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Frankfurt is often avoided
by tourists

51:17.366 --> 51:20.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
who consider it just a business
and transportation hub.

51:20.500 --> 51:22.533 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
But with its modern energy,

51:22.600 --> 51:25.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Frankfurt is a unique
and entertaining city

51:25.200 --> 51:26.800 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
well worth a look.

51:26.866 --> 51:29.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The city, with its forest
of skyscrapers

51:29.333 --> 51:31.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
perched on the banks
of the Main River,

51:31.433 --> 51:34.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
has been dubbed Germany's
"Main-hattan."

51:34.766 --> 51:37.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
While it leads the country
in high-rises,

51:37.400 --> 51:38.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
mostly bank headquarters,

51:39.000 --> 51:41.900 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
it has plenty
of people-friendly parks.

51:41.966 --> 51:43.733 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
In fact, Frankfurters boast

51:43.800 --> 51:46.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
that a third of their city
is green space.

51:46.766 --> 51:50.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This park is part of a greenbelt
that circles the old center

51:50.433 --> 51:51.500 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
and marks the site

51:51.566 --> 51:54.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of Frankfurt's long-gone
medieval fortifications.

51:54.466 --> 51:56.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Today that greenbelt weaves

51:56.233 --> 51:58.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
through Frankfurt's
banking district.

51:58.800 --> 52:01.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
And history hides
among these trees.

52:01.700 --> 52:02.966 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
The Marshall Plan --

52:03.033 --> 52:05.200 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
that massive
American aid program

52:05.266 --> 52:08.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
that helped Germany rebuild
after World War II --

52:08.066 --> 52:11.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
was administered
from this building.

52:11.866 --> 52:14.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
After World War II,
Germany was in ruins,

52:14.733 --> 52:16.933 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and its economy was in chaos.

52:17.033 --> 52:18.300 align:start position:40% line:84.66% size:20%
In 1948,

52:18.366 --> 52:21.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the United States gave it
a complete currency transfer.

52:21.366 --> 52:23.100 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
It was like
a blood transfusion --

52:23.166 --> 52:25.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
literally printing up the new
German Deutsche Marks,

52:25.933 --> 52:27.700 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
shipping them
across the Atlantic,

52:27.766 --> 52:29.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and, from here in Frankfurt,

52:29.400 --> 52:32.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
injecting them directly
into the German economy.

52:32.433 --> 52:35.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
That aid helped rebuild Germany,

52:35.166 --> 52:37.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and it shaped Frankfurt,
as well.

52:37.900 --> 52:39.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And, as if attracted
to all that money,

52:39.600 --> 52:42.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
banks naturally grew up
right here.

52:42.966 --> 52:44.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
The architecture is striking.

52:47.533 --> 52:49.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
By law, no German worker

52:49.633 --> 52:52.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
can be kept out of natural light
for more than four hours.

52:52.700 --> 52:55.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
That's why work environments
are filled with windows.

52:55.966 --> 52:58.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And unlike any skyscraper
I've been in,

52:58.900 --> 53:02.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Germans have office towers
with windows that open.

53:02.266 --> 53:05.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The Main Tower
is open to the public

53:05.900 --> 53:07.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
and offers a breath-taking view.

53:07.966 --> 53:13.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
From its rooftop, 650 feet high,
you can survey the city.

53:13.100 --> 53:16.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
With new construction
nearly obliterating the river

53:16.166 --> 53:17.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
upon which the city was founded,

53:18.033 --> 53:19.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
its ever-expanding skyline

53:19.833 --> 53:23.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
exudes the vitality
of the German economy.

53:23.733 --> 53:27.000 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
In contrast
to the glassy skyscrapers,

53:27.066 --> 53:30.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Frankfurt's train station
is a classic.

53:30.200 --> 53:33.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
This late 19th-century
glass-and-iron construction

53:33.633 --> 53:36.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
somehow survived the bombs
of World War II.

53:36.633 --> 53:38.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
The building's elegant facade

53:38.533 --> 53:41.000 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
dates from
the Industrial Revolution

53:41.066 --> 53:43.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and shows the pride
of that age.

53:43.833 --> 53:45.666 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Atlas carries the world,

53:45.733 --> 53:48.033 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
but only with
some heavy-duty modern help

53:48.100 --> 53:53.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
as figures representing steam
power and electricity pitch in.

53:53.766 --> 53:55.266 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
Stepping inside,

53:55.333 --> 53:58.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
you feel the energy of
Germany's busiest train station,

53:58.100 --> 54:04.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
where 350,000 travelers
catch 1,800 trains every day.

54:04.466 --> 54:08.266 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Kaiserstrasse,
a grand 19th-century boulevard,

54:08.333 --> 54:12.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
was built to connect the station
and the city with style.

54:12.500 --> 54:15.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Towering above and beyond
its fine 100-year-old facades,

54:16.000 --> 54:18.033 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and reflecting
the glaring modernity

54:18.100 --> 54:19.533 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
of this ever-changing city,

54:19.600 --> 54:24.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
are the skyscrapers
of Frankfurt's banking district.

54:24.433 --> 54:27.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Frankfurt is full of contrasts.

54:27.233 --> 54:29.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Just a few blocks away,
under those same skyscrapers,

54:30.033 --> 54:33.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
is a red light district
with about 20 legal brothels --

54:33.600 --> 54:36.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the pragmatic result of
a policy of tax and regulation

54:36.933 --> 54:38.200 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
to take the crime

54:38.266 --> 54:41.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
out of a reality
that just won't go away.

54:41.600 --> 54:43.133 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Just a couple blocks away,

54:43.200 --> 54:46.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
there are fashionable streets
lined with top-end boutiques.

54:46.500 --> 54:49.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
People-friendly pedestrian zones

54:49.300 --> 54:52.666 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
make it easy
for both shoppers and diners.

54:52.733 --> 54:53.933 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
And on a hot day,

54:54.000 --> 54:56.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
people of all ages
enjoy the refreshing fountain

54:56.766 --> 54:59.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
fronting Frankfurt's
fine opera house.

55:03.100 --> 55:05.633 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The many small
German-speaking states

55:05.700 --> 55:08.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
finally united into modern
Germany in about 1870.

55:08.966 --> 55:10.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Within a few couple of years,
Frankfurt,

55:10.700 --> 55:12.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
which helped spearhead
the unification movement,

55:12.766 --> 55:14.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
built this fine opera house.

55:14.400 --> 55:16.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
It celebrated both
high German culture

55:16.700 --> 55:18.700 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and the newly created nation.

55:18.766 --> 55:20.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
While bombed in World War II,

55:20.833 --> 55:23.533 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
it was rebuilt
in the original style.

55:23.600 --> 55:26.400 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
Mozart,
whose operas were a hit here,

55:26.466 --> 55:28.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and the esteemed
Frankfurt writer Goethe

55:28.633 --> 55:29.966 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
flank the entrance,

55:30.033 --> 55:35.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
reminders that this is a house
of both music and theater.

55:35.466 --> 55:37.166 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
Lunchtime
beneath the skyscrapers

55:37.233 --> 55:38.700 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
can be entertaining

55:38.766 --> 55:41.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
as herds of bankers
fill countless restaurants.

55:41.933 --> 55:43.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
This street
is nicknamed Fressgass,

55:43.966 --> 55:46.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
roughl"the feeding street."

55:47.033 --> 55:49.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
As a contrast to the many trendy
restaurant chains,

55:50.033 --> 55:53.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Frankfurt's Kleinmarkthalle,
that's "little market hall,"

55:53.733 --> 55:57.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
is a delightful,
old-school alternative.

55:57.766 --> 55:59.333 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
The venerable farmers' market

55:59.400 --> 56:01.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
was saved from developers
by a local outcry

56:01.900 --> 56:04.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
and remains
a neighborhood favorite.

56:04.400 --> 56:07.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Explore and enjoy the samples.

56:07.066 --> 56:09.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-This is anti-aging.
You have not need of it.

56:09.500 --> 56:12.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-I don't need it, no.
Immer jung.

56:12.366 --> 56:13.466 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
-[ Chuckles ]

56:13.533 --> 56:16.066 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
-This stall
is all about German sausages.

56:16.133 --> 56:20.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And amid this carnivore's
delight hides this,

56:20.066 --> 56:23.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the city's classic wiener,
the frankfurter.

56:23.400 --> 56:25.600 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
My best market tip --

56:25.666 --> 56:30.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
find the most popular eatery,
get local advice,

56:30.300 --> 56:32.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and go for the town specialty.

56:41.000 --> 56:44.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Just around the corner
is Romerberg,

56:44.066 --> 56:45.833 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Frankfurt's old main square,

56:45.900 --> 56:48.800 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
lined with
half-timbered buildings.

56:48.866 --> 56:51.666 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Because of
its historic importance,

56:51.733 --> 56:54.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
it's one of the few bits of
the town rebuilt after the war

56:54.766 --> 56:58.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
in its original
medieval style.

56:58.100 --> 57:01.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
On a sunny day,
people head for the Main River.

57:01.733 --> 57:03.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
A centerpiece
of the riverside park

57:03.666 --> 57:06.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
is this welcoming
19th century iron bridge.

57:06.933 --> 57:09.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Enjoy the lively scene
along the riverbanks

57:09.800 --> 57:13.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
in the shadow of Frankfurt's
towering skyscrapers.

57:13.100 --> 57:17.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Taking a riverside stroll,
I'm struck by how Germans,

57:17.066 --> 57:19.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
while so productive
in the workplace,

57:19.200 --> 57:22.933 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
are also expert at relaxation.

57:33.000 --> 57:34.100 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
From Frankfurt,

57:34.166 --> 57:35.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
trains zip travelers
to all points.

57:36.033 --> 57:37.233 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
Heading southeast,

57:37.300 --> 57:40.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
in a couple hours we cross
into the state of Bavaria

57:40.300 --> 57:42.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and arrive in Nurnberg.

57:42.600 --> 57:45.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Nurnberg was one of Germany's,
in fact Europe's,

57:45.566 --> 57:47.866 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
leading cities 500 years ago

57:47.933 --> 57:52.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
with an imposing
Imperial Castle.

57:52.533 --> 57:55.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The city's formidable walls
were state-of-the-art.

57:55.666 --> 57:57.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
They were redesigned
from square towers,

57:57.966 --> 58:00.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
which worked just fine before
the threat of cannon fire,

58:00.900 --> 58:02.166 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
to round ones

58:02.233 --> 58:05.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
so enemy cannonballs
were more likely to glance off

58:05.200 --> 58:06.600 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
without doing any damage.

58:06.666 --> 58:09.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Back then, with 80 water wheels

58:09.600 --> 58:12.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
powering mills
along its now sleepy river,

58:12.066 --> 58:14.333 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Nurnberg
was an industrial marvel.

58:14.400 --> 58:18.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The scenic remnants
of its hard medieval past

58:18.300 --> 58:20.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
are now just an added dimension

58:20.133 --> 58:23.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
of a delightfully
people-friendly historic center.

58:25.966 --> 58:30.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
90% of downtown Nurnberg
was destroyed in 1945.

58:30.266 --> 58:32.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
To rebuild,
city fathers had a choice --

58:32.966 --> 58:35.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
go entirely modern
like Frankfurt did --

58:35.166 --> 58:36.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
that was The Manhattan Plan --

58:36.633 --> 58:40.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
or maintain the pre-war
footprint and rebuild modern

58:40.133 --> 58:42.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
while preserving
the traditional character.

58:42.466 --> 58:44.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
That was Nurnberg's choice.

58:44.366 --> 58:47.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
With one of Europe's
largest pedestrian zones,

58:47.200 --> 58:51.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the city of half a million
has the charm of a smaller town.

58:51.233 --> 58:53.400 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
Playful street art,

58:53.466 --> 58:57.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
a series of bridges
with scenic river views,

58:57.166 --> 58:59.166 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
and no traffic noise

58:59.233 --> 59:01.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
make it a joy to experience.

59:01.400 --> 59:05.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Nurnberg is dominated
by its mighty castle.

59:05.733 --> 59:07.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
In the Middle Ages,
Holy Roman Emperors,

59:07.933 --> 59:14.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Europe's most powerful rulers,
stayed here when in town.

59:14.600 --> 59:16.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The Holy Roman Emperor
ruled much of Europe

59:16.733 --> 59:18.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
for over a thousand years.

59:18.633 --> 59:22.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The institution was finally
ended by Napoleon in 1806.

59:22.133 --> 59:24.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
The emperor ruled a vast realm.

59:24.266 --> 59:26.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It was bigger
than today's Germany,

59:26.200 --> 59:28.800 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
but it was never centralized
like France or England.

59:28.866 --> 59:30.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Rather than inheriting
his power,

59:30.833 --> 59:33.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
he was elected by the top
bishops and nobles of the day.

59:33.933 --> 59:35.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
They were called
Prince Electors.

59:35.866 --> 59:37.600 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
The emperor
had to keep on the move

59:37.666 --> 59:39.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and didn't have
a real capital city.

59:39.533 --> 59:41.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
While the emperor
claimed supreme authority

59:41.900 --> 59:44.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
inherited directly from
the emperors of ancient Rome,

59:44.700 --> 59:47.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
historians like to joke
that the Holy Roman Empire

59:47.266 --> 59:51.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
was neither holy, nor Roman,
nor an empire.

59:51.166 --> 59:53.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
The most famous
of these medieval emperors

59:54.000 --> 59:55.100 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
was Charlemagne,

59:55.166 --> 59:56.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
shown here in a painting

59:56.566 --> 59:58.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
by Nurnberg artist
Albrecht Durer.

59:58.666 --> 01:00:01.166 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Charlemagne,
or Charles the Great,

01:00:01.233 --> 01:00:04.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
was crowned by the pope
in the year 800.

01:00:04.700 --> 01:00:06.133 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
When ruling from Nurnberg,

01:00:06.200 --> 01:00:09.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
the emperor would have received
visiting delegations

01:00:09.133 --> 01:00:11.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
in the castle's Lower Hall.

01:00:11.733 --> 01:00:15.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
It's empty of furniture because
the imperial court was mobile.

01:00:15.966 --> 01:00:17.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Each city would scramble
to suitably furnish

01:00:17.966 --> 01:00:21.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
its royal quarters
before the emperor arrived.

01:00:21.133 --> 01:00:24.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The castle's 800-year-old church
is Romanesque in style

01:00:24.600 --> 01:00:26.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and gives a peek
at how structured

01:00:27.033 --> 01:00:29.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
even medieval society's
top 1% was.

01:00:34.233 --> 01:00:36.233 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
It has a triple-decker design.

01:00:36.300 --> 01:00:39.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The lower nobility worshiped
from the lower floor.

01:00:39.166 --> 01:00:41.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The upper nobility worshiped
at this level.

01:00:41.333 --> 01:00:42.300 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
And the emperor,

01:00:42.366 --> 01:00:44.166 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
he worshiped
above everybody else,

01:00:44.233 --> 01:00:45.433 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
from the balcony.

01:00:45.500 --> 01:00:47.700 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

01:00:47.766 --> 01:00:51.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
As effective as
the castle fortifications were,

01:00:51.233 --> 01:00:55.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
there was always an ultra-secure
refuge of last resort --

01:00:55.233 --> 01:00:56.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
the towering keep.

01:00:56.833 --> 01:01:01.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And security required
more than stony towers.

01:01:01.600 --> 01:01:02.700 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
Any good castle

01:01:02.766 --> 01:01:04.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
needs a secure water source
within its walls.

01:01:04.933 --> 01:01:07.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And when your castle sits
on a high rock,

01:01:07.466 --> 01:01:08.966 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
you need a very deep well.

01:01:09.033 --> 01:01:12.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This castle illustrates that
in a fun and memorable way.

01:01:12.166 --> 01:01:14.966 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
-[ Speaking German ]

01:01:15.033 --> 01:01:17.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-Even without understanding
much of our guide's German,

01:01:17.433 --> 01:01:22.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
he made it really clear that
this well goes way, way down.

01:01:27.966 --> 01:01:30.000 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
[ Water splashing ]

01:01:30.066 --> 01:01:31.600 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
[ Laughter ]

01:01:31.666 --> 01:01:33.333 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
-It's cool, huh?

01:01:33.400 --> 01:01:34.666 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
[ Chuckles ]

01:01:35.900 --> 01:01:38.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
-Nurnberg's
Germanic National Museum

01:01:38.900 --> 01:01:41.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
is dedicated to sharing
the cultural history

01:01:41.166 --> 01:01:42.533 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
of the German-speaking world.

01:01:42.600 --> 01:01:45.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
For German history buffs,
this museum alone,

01:01:45.933 --> 01:01:48.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
with a vast and gorgeously
presented collection,

01:01:48.566 --> 01:01:51.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
makes a visit to Nurnberg
worthwhile.

01:01:51.733 --> 01:01:53.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
When it comes
to Germany's reputation

01:01:53.533 --> 01:01:55.266 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
for fine craftsmanship,

01:01:55.333 --> 01:01:58.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
its passion for quality
goes way back.

01:01:58.900 --> 01:02:00.666 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
These finely crafted,

01:02:00.733 --> 01:02:02.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
centuries-old
precision instruments

01:02:02.633 --> 01:02:06.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
were intricate, innovative,
and artful.

01:02:06.266 --> 01:02:09.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This is the world's oldest
surviving globe,

01:02:09.800 --> 01:02:11.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
crafted by a Nurnberger.

01:02:11.666 --> 01:02:15.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Since it dates from 1492,
the Americas are missing.

01:02:15.100 --> 01:02:17.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
While they understood
that the world was round,

01:02:17.566 --> 01:02:18.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
the Western Hemisphere

01:02:18.800 --> 01:02:22.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
was still just
a huge and mysterious sea.

01:02:22.666 --> 01:02:25.700 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
The delicate,
wooden Nurnberg Madonna

01:02:25.766 --> 01:02:27.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
is also 500 years old.

01:02:28.033 --> 01:02:31.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This intimate, anonymous carving
of the favorite hometown girl

01:02:31.700 --> 01:02:35.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
was a symbol of the city
for centuries.

01:02:35.300 --> 01:02:37.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
The German painter Lucas Cranach

01:02:37.166 --> 01:02:39.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
was famous for portraits
of his contemporaries,

01:02:39.766 --> 01:02:44.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
like the great German Reformer
Martin Luther.

01:02:44.233 --> 01:02:47.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Cranach also painted poignant
psychological studies,

01:02:47.966 --> 01:02:49.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
paintings that came
with a message.

01:02:49.866 --> 01:02:52.600 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
In "The Ill-Matched Couple,"

01:02:52.666 --> 01:02:55.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the lecherous old man thinks
he's got the young maiden.

01:02:55.400 --> 01:02:58.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
But she looks knowingly
out at us

01:02:58.100 --> 01:03:02.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
as if to say "he's a fool,
and he'll get nowhere with me."

01:03:02.566 --> 01:03:05.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
The great painter Albrecht Durer

01:03:05.100 --> 01:03:07.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
worked in Nurnberg
around the year 1500.

01:03:07.666 --> 01:03:12.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This is a self-portrait
of that ultimate German artist.

01:03:12.700 --> 01:03:14.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Durer, who was
from the same generation

01:03:14.800 --> 01:03:16.233 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
as Michelangelo and Leonardo,

01:03:16.300 --> 01:03:18.466 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
was in tune
with the Renaissance.

01:03:18.533 --> 01:03:20.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
He was a genius
with a curious mind,

01:03:20.833 --> 01:03:23.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
a love of nature,
and a passion for realism.

01:03:23.666 --> 01:03:25.033 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
After traveling to Italy

01:03:25.100 --> 01:03:27.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and seeing how artists were
becoming well-paid and respected

01:03:27.900 --> 01:03:29.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
rather than anonymous laborers,

01:03:29.666 --> 01:03:30.900 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
he returned to Germany

01:03:30.966 --> 01:03:33.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
bringing the spirit
of the Renaissance with him.

01:03:33.566 --> 01:03:35.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
He painted this portrait
of his mother

01:03:36.033 --> 01:03:37.433 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
when he was a teenager.

01:03:37.500 --> 01:03:39.033 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
While just 19,

01:03:39.100 --> 01:03:43.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
his passion for realistic detail
is already apparent.

01:03:43.366 --> 01:03:45.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
This painting of Durer's teacher

01:03:45.266 --> 01:03:48.500 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
was done
after his experience in Italy.

01:03:48.566 --> 01:03:51.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Its realism was unprecedented
in Germany,

01:03:51.700 --> 01:03:53.033 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
and it's signed.

01:03:53.100 --> 01:03:56.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Again, now the artist
will be respected,

01:03:56.266 --> 01:03:59.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and he proudly included
his initials, A.D.

01:03:59.566 --> 01:04:03.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Durer was a master
at producing engravings

01:04:03.166 --> 01:04:05.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
from finely etched
metal plates.

01:04:05.900 --> 01:04:08.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The detail and realism,
a trademark of Durer,

01:04:09.000 --> 01:04:11.166 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
is extraordinary.

01:04:11.233 --> 01:04:13.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
As he was famous
in his own time,

01:04:13.566 --> 01:04:16.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
and because many prints could be
made from a single master plate

01:04:16.966 --> 01:04:18.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and therefore sold affordably,

01:04:18.900 --> 01:04:21.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the engraving technique
enableDurer to become

01:04:21.966 --> 01:04:26.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the first best-selling artist
in history.

01:04:26.300 --> 01:04:27.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
And he made a lot of money --

01:04:27.900 --> 01:04:30.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
enough to purchase
this impressive mansion

01:04:30.333 --> 01:04:31.700 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
beneath the castle.

01:04:31.766 --> 01:04:33.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Today, it's a fine museum

01:04:33.633 --> 01:04:36.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
about the life of perhaps
Germany's greatest painter.

01:04:36.866 --> 01:04:39.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
A visit here includes a workshop

01:04:39.166 --> 01:04:41.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
where you can learn about
Durer's craft.

01:04:41.233 --> 01:04:43.000 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
It's with these tools

01:04:43.066 --> 01:04:47.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
that the artist engraves
an image into the copper plate.

01:04:47.333 --> 01:04:49.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Visitors are treated
to a demonstration

01:04:49.666 --> 01:04:51.400 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
of making a print
from the plate.

01:04:51.466 --> 01:04:53.766 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
The subject is a hare.

01:04:53.833 --> 01:04:58.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Durer was famous for his vivid
portrayals of the natural world.

01:04:58.266 --> 01:04:59.500 align:start position:42.5% line:84.66% size:12.5%
-Wow.

01:04:59.566 --> 01:05:00.800 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
-To be able to enjoy

01:05:00.866 --> 01:05:03.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
such beautiful,
yet mass-produced art

01:05:03.400 --> 01:05:06.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
must have been a marvel
500 years ago.

01:05:09.833 --> 01:05:11.400 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
A few blocks away,

01:05:11.466 --> 01:05:14.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
towering nearly 300 feet
above the pedestrians,

01:05:14.333 --> 01:05:16.500 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
is St. Lorenz Church.

01:05:16.566 --> 01:05:19.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
When emperors paraded into town,

01:05:19.066 --> 01:05:21.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
they'd approach
its magnificent facade head-on.

01:05:22.033 --> 01:05:26.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Stepping inside, you feel
the splendor of that age.

01:05:26.966 --> 01:05:29.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Suspended over the altar
is the Annunciation,

01:05:29.966 --> 01:05:33.200 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
by the great Nurnberg woodcarver
Veit Stoss.

01:05:33.266 --> 01:05:34.600 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
Carved in 1517,

01:05:34.666 --> 01:05:38.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
it shows the angel Gabriel
telling Mary

01:05:38.100 --> 01:05:40.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
that she'll be giving birth
to the Messiah.

01:05:40.100 --> 01:05:42.866 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
Startled,
she drops her prayer book.

01:05:42.933 --> 01:05:45.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The dove represents
the Holy Spirit.

01:05:45.300 --> 01:05:48.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And God, looking as powerful
as a Holy Roman Emperor,

01:05:49.000 --> 01:05:50.866 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
looks down.

01:05:50.933 --> 01:05:53.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This lacy tabernacle
is rich enough

01:05:53.666 --> 01:05:55.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
to hold the consecrated
Communion wafer,

01:05:56.033 --> 01:05:58.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
which Catholics consider
The Body of Christ.

01:05:58.700 --> 01:06:01.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And supporting the tower
on his shoulders

01:06:01.633 --> 01:06:04.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
is the artist who created it,
Adam Kraft,

01:06:04.566 --> 01:06:08.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
gripping his noble tools
with a proud confidence.

01:06:10.433 --> 01:06:13.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Again, this was around 1500,

01:06:13.200 --> 01:06:15.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and the humanistic spirit
of the Renaissance

01:06:15.500 --> 01:06:17.633 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
was moving into Germany.

01:06:23.033 --> 01:06:25.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
While this church
along with the rest of the city

01:06:25.700 --> 01:06:27.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
was heavily bombed
in World War II,

01:06:27.700 --> 01:06:30.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
much of its art survived

01:06:30.066 --> 01:06:33.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
thanks to heroic and creative
efforts by its citizens.

01:06:33.500 --> 01:06:35.433 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
One part of Nurnberg

01:06:35.500 --> 01:06:38.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
that avoided bomb damage
was underground --

01:06:38.166 --> 01:06:40.400 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
its vast
and long-established network

01:06:40.466 --> 01:06:43.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
of waterways, tunnels,
and beer cellars.

01:06:43.633 --> 01:06:46.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
They were outfitted
as air-raid shelters.

01:06:46.566 --> 01:06:47.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
During bombing raids,

01:06:48.000 --> 01:06:51.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
tens of thousands of locals
took refuge down here.

01:06:51.366 --> 01:06:53.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
It's also where
countless art treasures,

01:06:53.533 --> 01:06:56.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
both local and looted,
were safely hidden away.

01:06:56.566 --> 01:06:58.966 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
To learn more about this,

01:06:59.033 --> 01:07:01.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and not get forever lost
down here,

01:07:01.533 --> 01:07:04.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
we're joined by my friend
and fellow tour guide

01:07:04.233 --> 01:07:06.166 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
Thomas Schmechtig.

01:07:06.233 --> 01:07:08.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-So, Nurnberg was bombed
quite late in the war,

01:07:08.666 --> 01:07:10.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and we saw what happened
to other cities,

01:07:10.766 --> 01:07:12.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
so we actually prepared
for the war

01:07:12.600 --> 01:07:15.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and reconverted these old beer
cellars into air raid shelters.

01:07:15.633 --> 01:07:17.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
That, for example,
where guards used to be

01:07:18.033 --> 01:07:19.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
who protected the artworks

01:07:19.466 --> 01:07:21.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
which were stored in here
during the second world war.

01:07:22.033 --> 01:07:25.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-The Nazis hid crates of great
art in many different rooms

01:07:25.066 --> 01:07:27.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
in this sprawling
underground network.

01:07:27.633 --> 01:07:29.800 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-This is one
of the many rooms down here

01:07:29.866 --> 01:07:31.333 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
which were filled up with art.

01:07:31.400 --> 01:07:33.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
Nurnberg was back then

01:07:33.166 --> 01:07:36.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
nicknamed "the treasure chest
of the German Empire."

01:07:36.733 --> 01:07:39.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Plus, the Nazis looted
lots of artworks.

01:07:39.800 --> 01:07:41.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-From countries
that they conquered,

01:07:41.600 --> 01:07:42.666 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and they brought it here?

01:07:42.733 --> 01:07:43.966 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Correct.

01:07:44.033 --> 01:07:45.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
For example, right in this room,

01:07:45.700 --> 01:07:48.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
they had the crown
of the Holy Roman Emperor.

01:07:48.133 --> 01:07:49.666 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-So, right here in these cellars

01:07:49.733 --> 01:07:52.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
were some the great treasures
of European culture.

01:07:52.133 --> 01:07:53.333 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Correct.

01:07:53.400 --> 01:07:56.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
We didn't just stash
the art treasures down here.

01:07:56.333 --> 01:07:57.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
They were carefully packed.

01:07:58.033 --> 01:07:59.200 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
For example, here, Rick,

01:07:59.266 --> 01:08:01.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
you see the wonderful
stained glass windows

01:08:01.500 --> 01:08:03.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
from our St. Lorenz church.

01:08:03.533 --> 01:08:05.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
They were taken out pane by pane

01:08:05.333 --> 01:08:08.233 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and then put
into those wooden crates.

01:08:08.300 --> 01:08:11.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The humidity was very dangerous
for the artworks,

01:08:11.666 --> 01:08:14.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
so they air-conditioned
the whole place in here.

01:08:14.100 --> 01:08:17.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-So, this huge duct was made
in anticipation of the war?

01:08:17.300 --> 01:08:21.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-Yes, and already in 1939,
before the war broke out.

01:08:21.366 --> 01:08:23.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-The bombing, of course,
eventually came,

01:08:23.700 --> 01:08:25.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and this surviving
underground network

01:08:25.633 --> 01:08:28.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
became the foundation
for rebuilding the city.

01:08:28.400 --> 01:08:29.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
-So it did make sense

01:08:29.800 --> 01:08:32.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
to rebuild the city
on its original footprints.

01:08:32.200 --> 01:08:35.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
We have miles of underground
which survived the war.

01:08:35.633 --> 01:08:37.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
They date back
to the Middle Ages.

01:08:37.733 --> 01:08:40.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
That, for example is
an old water conduit system.

01:08:40.600 --> 01:08:43.766 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
-Nurnberg,
so steeped in German history,

01:08:43.833 --> 01:08:46.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
was nicknamed the most German
of German cities.

01:08:46.933 --> 01:08:49.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
That's one reason
it was a favorite of Hitler's.

01:08:49.833 --> 01:08:51.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
A short tram ride
from the center

01:08:51.900 --> 01:08:56.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
is a collection
of important Nazi sites.

01:08:56.266 --> 01:08:59.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
When Hitler took power in 1933,

01:08:59.366 --> 01:09:01.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
he made Nurnberg's
Zeppelin Field

01:09:01.300 --> 01:09:04.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
the site of his enormous
Nazi party rallies.

01:09:04.466 --> 01:09:07.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The stark remains of
this massive gathering place

01:09:07.400 --> 01:09:08.666 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
are thought-provoking.

01:09:08.733 --> 01:09:10.733 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
For several years,

01:09:10.800 --> 01:09:13.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
increasingly elaborate
celebrations

01:09:13.200 --> 01:09:16.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
of Nazi culture,
ideology, and power

01:09:16.433 --> 01:09:17.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
took place right here.

01:09:18.000 --> 01:09:20.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Imagine Hitler stepping
out of that door,

01:09:20.300 --> 01:09:23.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
overlooking the massive
200,000 people being lined up.

01:09:23.400 --> 01:09:26.333 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
He used propaganda
to create a new community --

01:09:26.400 --> 01:09:27.933 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
in fact,
we even have a word for it.

01:09:28.000 --> 01:09:29.533 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
It's called Volksgemeinschaft.

01:09:29.600 --> 01:09:31.266 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
-The chilling images

01:09:31.333 --> 01:09:33.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
from Leni Riefenstahl's
documentary

01:09:33.500 --> 01:09:34.700 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
"Triumph of the Will"

01:09:34.766 --> 01:09:37.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
were filmed at the 1934
Nurnberg rallies

01:09:37.766 --> 01:09:42.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
and then shown in every theater
and schoolroom in the country.

01:09:42.733 --> 01:09:45.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The goal -- to bring
a visual celebration

01:09:45.433 --> 01:09:51.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
of the power of the Nazi state
to every person in Germany.

01:09:51.766 --> 01:09:53.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Looming over a now peaceful lake

01:09:53.700 --> 01:09:56.900 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
is another remnant of
the dictator's megalomania --

01:09:56.966 --> 01:10:00.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
his huge yet unfinished
Nazi Congress Hall.

01:10:00.266 --> 01:10:03.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Hitler was enamored
with the Roman Colosseum.

01:10:03.800 --> 01:10:06.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
He had his Congress Hall
modeled on that

01:10:06.466 --> 01:10:07.833 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
but built much bigger.

01:10:07.900 --> 01:10:12.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
-Imagine 50,000 leading Nazis
in here.

01:10:12.400 --> 01:10:15.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
One third higher,
covered by a roof.

01:10:15.166 --> 01:10:16.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
A window inside the ceiling,

01:10:17.033 --> 01:10:19.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Sunshine would have fallen
down to the podium.

01:10:19.733 --> 01:10:23.566 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Once a year,
one speech of Adolf Hitler.

01:10:23.633 --> 01:10:26.400 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Adolf Hitler
liked huge buildings.

01:10:26.466 --> 01:10:27.633 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
He was a big fan

01:10:27.700 --> 01:10:30.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
of the architectural style
named Neoclassicism.

01:10:30.833 --> 01:10:34.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The idea was to make
the individual feel small.

01:10:34.100 --> 01:10:36.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-This really makes me
feel small here.

01:10:36.266 --> 01:10:39.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Yeah, you give away
the responsibility of your life,

01:10:39.300 --> 01:10:41.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
anyou get something back
in return.

01:10:41.100 --> 01:10:42.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
That is a bright new future.

01:10:42.533 --> 01:10:47.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-The Nazi Documentation Center
fills one wing of the hall.

01:10:47.566 --> 01:10:50.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This superb museum does its best
to answer the question

01:10:51.000 --> 01:10:55.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
"How could Germany's
Nazi nightmare have happened?"

01:10:55.633 --> 01:10:58.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
It traces the evolution
of the Nazi movement,

01:10:58.566 --> 01:11:02.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
focusing on how it somehow
both energized and terrified

01:11:02.400 --> 01:11:03.833 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
the German people.

01:11:07.266 --> 01:11:09.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This is not a World War II
or a Holocaust museum.

01:11:10.000 --> 01:11:12.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
In fact, those events
are barely mentioned.

01:11:12.700 --> 01:11:14.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Instead, the center
frankly analyzes

01:11:15.033 --> 01:11:18.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
the origin and evolution
of the Nazi phenomenon,

01:11:18.233 --> 01:11:20.033 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
to help better understand it

01:11:20.100 --> 01:11:22.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and help prevent it
from ever happening again.

01:11:23.000 --> 01:11:25.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Exhibits offer insights
into the creation

01:11:25.600 --> 01:11:28.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
of the messiah/pop star image
of Hitler --

01:11:28.766 --> 01:11:31.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
the mass hypnosis
of the German nation.

01:11:31.766 --> 01:11:34.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
You'll see his manifesto,
"Mein Kampf,"

01:11:34.733 --> 01:11:36.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
mementos that placed
the dictator

01:11:36.800 --> 01:11:38.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
alongside Bismarck and Beethoven

01:11:38.600 --> 01:11:40.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
in the pantheon
of German greats,

01:11:40.633 --> 01:11:43.433 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and souvenirs from his rallies.

01:11:43.500 --> 01:11:44.833 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
With postcards like these,

01:11:44.900 --> 01:11:47.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the Hitler-mania generated
by these rallies

01:11:47.300 --> 01:11:49.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
was shared across the land.

01:11:49.400 --> 01:11:52.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Of course, Hitler's promises
were trumped up

01:11:52.533 --> 01:11:55.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and led not to glory
but to war, the Holocaust,

01:11:55.433 --> 01:11:58.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and the devastation of Germany.

01:11:58.666 --> 01:12:01.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The challenges of building and
maintaining a peaceful future

01:12:02.000 --> 01:12:03.733 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
are ongoing.

01:12:03.800 --> 01:12:07.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-Incorporated into this museum
are classrooms like this.

01:12:07.233 --> 01:12:08.366 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
-Why is that?

01:12:08.433 --> 01:12:11.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-Because every student,
military, policeman

01:12:11.333 --> 01:12:13.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
should learn
from our difficult history.

01:12:13.966 --> 01:12:16.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-So this really is today
part of German education.

01:12:16.733 --> 01:12:19.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-Yeah, it finally arrived
in our education system.

01:12:19.900 --> 01:12:23.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-Having learned powerful lessons
from its 20th-century history,

01:12:23.833 --> 01:12:26.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
today Nurnberg celebrates
its German character

01:12:26.566 --> 01:12:30.133 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
with a forward-looking gusto
that seems to really value life.

01:12:30.200 --> 01:12:32.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
You feel that
throughout the town --

01:12:32.900 --> 01:12:34.800 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
the farmers
who sell their produce

01:12:34.866 --> 01:12:36.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
direct from stalls
on the bridge...

01:12:36.900 --> 01:12:40.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
fountains designed
to make kids giggle,

01:12:40.566 --> 01:12:42.733 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
along with their parents...

01:12:42.800 --> 01:12:45.800 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and its tasty traditions.

01:12:48.033 --> 01:12:50.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Here in Nurnberg,
you'll certainly eat well --

01:12:50.933 --> 01:12:54.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
famous beer, classic pretzels,
sauerkraut,

01:12:54.566 --> 01:12:56.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and the thing about this city
that steals my heart,

01:12:56.900 --> 01:12:59.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
these adorable little sausages.

01:12:59.266 --> 01:13:01.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves.

01:13:01.233 --> 01:13:03.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.

01:13:03.666 --> 01:13:06.633 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Guten appetit
and <i>Auf Wiedersehen</i>.