1 00:00:01,366 --> 00:00:02,600 - Hey, I'm Rick Steves, 2 00:00:02,600 --> 00:00:04,433 back with more of the best of Europe. 3 00:00:04,433 --> 00:00:07,233 In this episode, rather than a particular place, 4 00:00:07,233 --> 00:00:08,666 we're going thematic 5 00:00:08,666 --> 00:00:11,266 and traveling wherever that theme takes us. 6 00:00:11,266 --> 00:00:14,700 And this time, it's the art of Prehistoric Europe. 7 00:00:14,700 --> 00:00:15,533 The age? 8 00:00:15,533 --> 00:00:16,466 Stone Age. 9 00:00:16,466 --> 00:00:17,833 They were prehistoric 10 00:00:17,833 --> 00:00:19,733 because nobody could write about it back then, 11 00:00:19,733 --> 00:00:23,033 but they were dang good with massive stone calendars. 12 00:00:23,033 --> 00:00:25,033 Thanks for joining us. 13 00:00:25,033 --> 00:00:27,866 (stirring music) 14 00:00:57,166 --> 00:01:00,166 A lot was going on in Europe in prehistoric times, 15 00:01:00,166 --> 00:01:01,700 from painted caves in France 16 00:01:01,700 --> 00:01:03,766 five times as old as the pyramids, 17 00:01:03,766 --> 00:01:05,133 to stone circles in England 18 00:01:05,133 --> 00:01:08,300 that still line up with the sun on special days. 19 00:01:08,300 --> 00:01:10,133 And plenty survives. 20 00:01:11,233 --> 00:01:13,433 We'll start as if going to an art gallery 21 00:01:13,433 --> 00:01:16,666 in the caves of those earliest Europeans. 22 00:01:16,666 --> 00:01:19,566 After finding meaning in mysterious stone circles, 23 00:01:19,566 --> 00:01:22,733 we'll explore massive burial mounds in Ireland 24 00:01:22,733 --> 00:01:26,566 and venture north to stony underground villages in Orkney. 25 00:01:27,366 --> 00:01:28,800 A visit to a site that shows 26 00:01:28,800 --> 00:01:30,600 how prehistoric people may have lived 27 00:01:30,600 --> 00:01:32,933 humanizes those distant relatives. 28 00:01:32,933 --> 00:01:34,400 - That's how you get your fire. 29 00:01:34,400 --> 00:01:36,566 - We'll look into the long-gone eyes 30 00:01:36,566 --> 00:01:38,933 of remarkably preserved bog people 31 00:01:38,933 --> 00:01:41,166 and ponder how Prehistoric Europeans 32 00:01:41,166 --> 00:01:43,400 were fascinated with fertility, 33 00:01:43,400 --> 00:01:45,866 determined to pack smart for the afterlife, 34 00:01:45,866 --> 00:01:48,700 and made finely-crafted ornamented horns 35 00:01:48,700 --> 00:01:50,766 that still play to this day. 36 00:01:52,133 --> 00:01:53,933 While venturing all over Europe, 37 00:01:53,933 --> 00:01:57,200 we'll see Stone Age cave paintings in France, 38 00:01:57,200 --> 00:02:00,233 megalithic wonders in England, Ireland, 39 00:02:00,233 --> 00:02:01,966 and distant Orkney, 40 00:02:01,966 --> 00:02:04,533 prehistoric artifacts in Denmark, 41 00:02:04,533 --> 00:02:07,766 and fertility figurines in the Greek Isles. 42 00:02:10,333 --> 00:02:13,266 Once upon a time some 30,000 years ago, 43 00:02:13,266 --> 00:02:15,266 when the Ice Age glaciers melted, 44 00:02:15,266 --> 00:02:18,233 people had time to do more than just survive. 45 00:02:18,233 --> 00:02:22,133 Stone Age people assembled rocks like these with a purpose. 46 00:02:22,133 --> 00:02:25,066 Eventually, civilization in Europe was born, 47 00:02:25,066 --> 00:02:27,166 and with that, so was art. 48 00:02:28,133 --> 00:02:29,633 Prehistoric Europeans, 49 00:02:29,633 --> 00:02:31,166 because they were human, 50 00:02:31,166 --> 00:02:33,300 were driven to create. 51 00:02:33,300 --> 00:02:35,400 Even before there was architecture, 52 00:02:35,400 --> 00:02:36,766 there were caves. 53 00:02:38,000 --> 00:02:39,233 In the south of France, 54 00:02:39,233 --> 00:02:42,000 with its honeycombed limestone cliffs, 55 00:02:42,000 --> 00:02:45,566 early humans painted surprisingly realistic scenes 56 00:02:45,566 --> 00:02:47,433 on the walls of caves. 57 00:02:47,433 --> 00:02:50,233 (plaintive music) 58 00:02:52,466 --> 00:02:55,400 From about 18,000 until 10,000 BC, 59 00:02:55,400 --> 00:02:57,666 long before Stonehenge and the pyramids, 60 00:02:57,666 --> 00:02:59,566 back when mammoths and saber-toothed cats 61 00:02:59,566 --> 00:03:00,833 still roamed the earth, 62 00:03:00,833 --> 00:03:03,133 prehistoric people painted deep inside caves 63 00:03:03,133 --> 00:03:04,666 in this part of Europe. 64 00:03:04,666 --> 00:03:06,500 These weren't just crude doodles, 65 00:03:06,500 --> 00:03:10,200 but huge and sophisticated projects executed by artists 66 00:03:10,200 --> 00:03:13,400 and supported by an impressive culture. 67 00:03:13,400 --> 00:03:15,533 The most famous cave, Lascaux, 68 00:03:15,533 --> 00:03:18,800 now has a precisely-copied replica next door 69 00:03:18,800 --> 00:03:21,833 built to help conserve the original. 70 00:03:21,833 --> 00:03:24,833 It's easy to underestimate the sophistication 71 00:03:24,833 --> 00:03:27,700 of people 10,000 or 20,000 years ago. 72 00:03:27,700 --> 00:03:31,033 These long-ago societies captured the world they knew 73 00:03:31,033 --> 00:03:33,266 with extraordinary skills. 74 00:03:33,266 --> 00:03:36,033 Wild animals are impressively realistic, 75 00:03:36,033 --> 00:03:38,100 caught in full motion, 76 00:03:38,100 --> 00:03:39,333 running, 77 00:03:39,333 --> 00:03:40,733 jumping, 78 00:03:40,733 --> 00:03:41,966 facing off. 79 00:03:41,966 --> 00:03:44,966 (plaintive music) 80 00:03:44,966 --> 00:03:48,900 The canvas for these early artists was enormous. 81 00:03:48,900 --> 00:03:52,066 This cavern alone is a football field long 82 00:03:52,066 --> 00:03:56,100 with over 600 animals, life size or larger. 83 00:03:56,100 --> 00:03:59,266 By torch light, they'd flicker to life. 84 00:03:59,266 --> 00:04:01,900 - We are in the oxen room, 85 00:04:01,900 --> 00:04:05,166 the most spectacular room of Lascaux. 86 00:04:05,166 --> 00:04:08,300 It's a sacred place. 87 00:04:08,300 --> 00:04:09,833 We don't live in a church. 88 00:04:09,833 --> 00:04:11,966 They never lived in the caves. 89 00:04:11,966 --> 00:04:13,666 And it's a huge composition. 90 00:04:13,666 --> 00:04:15,733 It's a calculated composition 91 00:04:15,733 --> 00:04:20,600 because they have taken advantage of the strip of rock 92 00:04:20,600 --> 00:04:25,666 to relate in a circle to groups of bulls facing each other. 93 00:04:26,766 --> 00:04:28,966 And in the center of this composition, 94 00:04:28,966 --> 00:04:32,466 they have united the three principal animals of Lascaux, 95 00:04:32,466 --> 00:04:35,266 horse, ox, and deer. 96 00:04:35,266 --> 00:04:37,666 - [Rick] Is this a hunting scene? 97 00:04:37,666 --> 00:04:39,700 - No, it's not a hunting scene, 98 00:04:39,700 --> 00:04:43,633 because on the walls the hunter doesn't exist. 99 00:04:43,633 --> 00:04:46,233 They never tell the everyday life. 100 00:04:46,233 --> 00:04:48,533 The meaning is more complex. 101 00:04:48,533 --> 00:04:50,233 - What is the biggest animal? 102 00:04:50,233 --> 00:04:52,166 - It's this bull. 103 00:04:52,166 --> 00:04:54,966 He's the largest painting in the cave, 104 00:04:54,966 --> 00:04:58,166 16 feet from the top of the horn 105 00:04:58,166 --> 00:05:00,300 to the tip of the tail. 106 00:05:00,300 --> 00:05:02,700 - While over 15,000 years old, 107 00:05:02,700 --> 00:05:05,633 this was not the work of crude cavemen, 108 00:05:05,633 --> 00:05:10,100 but of a complex society that produced skilled artists. 109 00:05:10,100 --> 00:05:12,266 Flames from these oil lamps flickered 110 00:05:12,266 --> 00:05:15,200 in those art-covered caverns. 111 00:05:15,200 --> 00:05:18,533 Think of how impressive the challenges must have been. 112 00:05:18,533 --> 00:05:20,233 Hauling in materials, 113 00:05:20,233 --> 00:05:21,566 grinding paints, 114 00:05:21,566 --> 00:05:23,600 erecting scaffolding, 115 00:05:23,600 --> 00:05:26,466 all before that first prehistoric Michelangelo 116 00:05:26,466 --> 00:05:29,233 could reach up and paint the first stroke. 117 00:05:31,166 --> 00:05:34,900 Surviving artifacts give insight into these people. 118 00:05:34,900 --> 00:05:37,200 Mourners draped delicate jewelry 119 00:05:37,200 --> 00:05:39,633 on the corpses of loved ones. 120 00:05:39,633 --> 00:05:41,633 Necklaces of stag teeth 121 00:05:41,633 --> 00:05:44,100 and tiny shells strung together. 122 00:05:45,833 --> 00:05:48,466 These barbed spearheads and fish hooks 123 00:05:48,466 --> 00:05:49,966 would work well today. 124 00:05:49,966 --> 00:05:53,700 Finely-carved spear throwers show impressive naturalism 125 00:05:53,700 --> 00:05:58,166 for something three times as old as the oldest pyramids. 126 00:05:59,033 --> 00:06:01,333 Art is part of being human. 127 00:06:01,333 --> 00:06:04,133 We communicate and tackle problems. 128 00:06:04,133 --> 00:06:06,833 We imagine and evolve. 129 00:06:06,833 --> 00:06:09,033 What did the paintings mean? 130 00:06:09,033 --> 00:06:11,166 What emotions did they trigger? 131 00:06:11,166 --> 00:06:13,100 Did they worship these animals, 132 00:06:13,100 --> 00:06:14,500 or capture them in paint 133 00:06:14,500 --> 00:06:16,933 to magically capture them in the hunt? 134 00:06:16,933 --> 00:06:19,366 We just don't know. 135 00:06:19,366 --> 00:06:22,166 But we do know that the people who painted these 136 00:06:22,166 --> 00:06:24,200 are like our close cousins. 137 00:06:24,200 --> 00:06:26,400 Compared to the beginning of humanity 138 00:06:26,400 --> 00:06:29,200 born in Africa 3 million years ago, 139 00:06:29,200 --> 00:06:32,100 Lascaux was like yesterday. 140 00:06:33,466 --> 00:06:36,366 (plaintive music) 141 00:06:48,400 --> 00:06:51,766 Since early nomadic hunter-gatherers were prehistoric, 142 00:06:51,766 --> 00:06:53,400 with no written histories, 143 00:06:53,400 --> 00:06:57,200 we only know them from the mysterious clues they left us. 144 00:06:58,300 --> 00:07:00,400 And none are more mysterious 145 00:07:00,400 --> 00:07:04,466 than their huge stone monuments found all over Europe. 146 00:07:05,333 --> 00:07:08,066 This is from the Megalithic Age, 147 00:07:08,066 --> 00:07:12,566 characterized literally by big stones. 148 00:07:12,566 --> 00:07:14,900 At Stonehenge in England, 149 00:07:14,900 --> 00:07:16,700 huge carved stones, 150 00:07:16,700 --> 00:07:20,333 some over 20 feet tall and weighing 25 tons, 151 00:07:20,333 --> 00:07:22,033 stand in a circle. 152 00:07:22,033 --> 00:07:25,000 The stones were erected with Stone Age technology 153 00:07:25,000 --> 00:07:28,100 before the advent of metal tools. 154 00:07:28,100 --> 00:07:31,000 As we look at the museum's simple artifacts 155 00:07:31,000 --> 00:07:33,200 and replica thatched hut hamlet, 156 00:07:33,200 --> 00:07:34,500 it's hard to imagine 157 00:07:34,500 --> 00:07:37,066 how these humble early people managed it. 158 00:07:38,533 --> 00:07:40,266 Huge stones like this replica 159 00:07:40,266 --> 00:07:43,433 were quarried, carved, and then moved for many miles, 160 00:07:43,433 --> 00:07:45,433 some of them from as far away as Wales, 161 00:07:45,433 --> 00:07:47,033 200 miles to the west. 162 00:07:47,033 --> 00:07:48,600 They barged them down rivers. 163 00:07:48,600 --> 00:07:50,600 They may have rolled them on logs like this. 164 00:07:50,600 --> 00:07:51,766 Nobody knows for sure. 165 00:07:52,733 --> 00:07:54,433 Marveling at these stones, 166 00:07:54,433 --> 00:07:57,666 we ponder the purpose of these stone circles, 167 00:07:57,666 --> 00:08:01,533 perhaps sacred centers of ritual and worship. 168 00:08:01,533 --> 00:08:04,500 We know they functioned as celestial calendars. 169 00:08:06,200 --> 00:08:09,700 As this 360-degree theater demonstrates, 170 00:08:09,700 --> 00:08:11,900 the structure is aligned with the heavens, 171 00:08:13,333 --> 00:08:17,333 marking both the longest and the shortest days of the year. 172 00:08:17,333 --> 00:08:19,033 4,000 years ago, 173 00:08:19,033 --> 00:08:22,700 locals could tell when to plant and when to party 174 00:08:22,700 --> 00:08:27,266 according to where the sun rose and where the sun set. 175 00:08:27,266 --> 00:08:28,933 And even today, 176 00:08:28,933 --> 00:08:31,733 as the sun rises on the longest day of the year, 177 00:08:31,733 --> 00:08:33,733 in just the right spot, 178 00:08:33,733 --> 00:08:37,066 it casts a powerful spell of wonder. 179 00:08:38,300 --> 00:08:41,133 (ethereal music) 180 00:08:42,166 --> 00:08:43,633 Nearby at Avebury, 181 00:08:43,633 --> 00:08:46,233 visitors wander through a cohesive ensemble 182 00:08:46,233 --> 00:08:49,433 of ditches, mounds, and megaliths, 183 00:08:49,433 --> 00:08:52,366 the work of people clearly on a mission. 184 00:08:54,100 --> 00:08:55,233 The huge circle, 185 00:08:55,233 --> 00:08:57,400 while now cut in two by a busy road 186 00:08:57,400 --> 00:08:59,466 and so big it contains a village, 187 00:08:59,466 --> 00:09:01,266 retains its allure. 188 00:09:02,866 --> 00:09:04,700 Of the hundreds of neolithic ruins 189 00:09:04,700 --> 00:09:06,566 that dot the English landscape, 190 00:09:06,566 --> 00:09:09,100 the Scorhill Stone Circle in Dartmoor 191 00:09:09,100 --> 00:09:11,133 is a favorite of mine. 192 00:09:11,133 --> 00:09:13,066 Tranquil and nearly forgotten, 193 00:09:13,066 --> 00:09:15,266 erected some 4,000 years ago 194 00:09:15,266 --> 00:09:18,233 by mysterious people for mysterious reasons, 195 00:09:18,233 --> 00:09:20,033 it's yours alone, 196 00:09:20,033 --> 00:09:22,200 the way a stone circle should be. 197 00:09:22,200 --> 00:09:24,833 It's just you and your imagination. 198 00:09:24,833 --> 00:09:27,166 Enjoy the quiet. 199 00:09:27,166 --> 00:09:29,400 Ponder the 40 centuries of people 200 00:09:29,400 --> 00:09:32,433 who've made this enchanting landscape their home 201 00:09:32,433 --> 00:09:35,466 and the wisdom of today's English to protect it 202 00:09:35,466 --> 00:09:36,900 and keep it pristine. 203 00:09:38,633 --> 00:09:40,800 Hundreds of these Stone Age calendars 204 00:09:40,800 --> 00:09:43,000 are scattered over the Isle of Britain, 205 00:09:43,000 --> 00:09:45,666 each built by people working together, 206 00:09:45,666 --> 00:09:48,800 people doing more than merely surviving. 207 00:09:48,800 --> 00:09:51,566 My favorites are the ones that are tranquil, 208 00:09:51,566 --> 00:09:53,666 all alone in a field 209 00:09:53,666 --> 00:09:55,933 where you can reflect on the mysteries 210 00:09:55,933 --> 00:09:58,466 of who built them, and why. 211 00:09:59,766 --> 00:10:02,900 These earliest manmade stone structures 212 00:10:02,900 --> 00:10:05,366 were for the living and for the dead. 213 00:10:05,366 --> 00:10:07,533 Most of what survives were tombs 214 00:10:07,533 --> 00:10:09,966 designed in a way that lined up with the heavens 215 00:10:09,966 --> 00:10:12,533 that seemed to indicate a kind of religion 216 00:10:12,533 --> 00:10:15,533 and a concern for the afterlife. 217 00:10:15,533 --> 00:10:17,633 Long before the pyramids of Egypt, 218 00:10:17,633 --> 00:10:21,766 the powerful had stone tombs built to protect their bodies. 219 00:10:21,766 --> 00:10:23,600 The soil that buried this structure 220 00:10:23,600 --> 00:10:25,833 has long since eroded away. 221 00:10:27,233 --> 00:10:30,933 These ancient people's lives were dictated by the seasons 222 00:10:30,933 --> 00:10:33,200 and the natural world around them. 223 00:10:33,200 --> 00:10:37,200 Again, the greatest tombs aligned with the rising sun. 224 00:10:38,466 --> 00:10:41,333 This is a necropolis, a city of the dead, 225 00:10:41,333 --> 00:10:42,766 built in Ireland 226 00:10:42,766 --> 00:10:45,800 with several grassy mounds around one grand tomb. 227 00:10:47,066 --> 00:10:49,733 Being a passage tomb, it tracked the sun, 228 00:10:49,733 --> 00:10:53,366 with one tunnel facing east and one facing west 229 00:10:54,833 --> 00:10:58,766 aligned so that on both the spring and fall equinoxes, 230 00:10:58,766 --> 00:11:01,133 rays from the rising and setting sun 231 00:11:01,133 --> 00:11:03,300 shine down the passageways, 232 00:11:03,300 --> 00:11:05,700 illuminating its central chamber. 233 00:11:09,000 --> 00:11:11,966 - To give you an idea of the sweep of the history here, 234 00:11:11,966 --> 00:11:15,533 these sites were built approximately 5,300 years ago, 235 00:11:15,533 --> 00:11:19,366 approximately 3,300 BC, 236 00:11:19,366 --> 00:11:22,200 which puts them 500 years older 237 00:11:22,200 --> 00:11:24,300 than the oldest pyramids in Egypt, 238 00:11:24,300 --> 00:11:27,300 1,000 years older than Stonehenge 239 00:11:27,300 --> 00:11:29,200 in Wiltshire in England. 240 00:11:29,200 --> 00:11:33,833 So, these people put a huge amount of energy and resources 241 00:11:33,833 --> 00:11:37,100 and basically, a huge amount of their wealth, 242 00:11:37,100 --> 00:11:39,900 into constructing these monuments. 243 00:11:39,900 --> 00:11:43,966 They were probably thinking not just about survival, 244 00:11:43,966 --> 00:11:46,800 but issues around life, death, 245 00:11:46,800 --> 00:11:50,000 the story of their tribe, their ancestors, 246 00:11:50,000 --> 00:11:51,633 issues like rebirth. 247 00:11:51,633 --> 00:11:52,600 Where did they come from? 248 00:11:52,600 --> 00:11:53,833 Where were they going to? 249 00:11:55,200 --> 00:11:58,233 - Nearby is an even older sacred mound, 250 00:11:58,233 --> 00:12:01,366 also built for some kind of ritual of the sun, 251 00:12:01,366 --> 00:12:04,533 an impressively large structure faced with white quartz 252 00:12:04,533 --> 00:12:07,233 and decorated with abstract engravings. 253 00:12:07,233 --> 00:12:10,000 It's a testament to the engineering abilities 254 00:12:10,000 --> 00:12:11,900 and desire to ornament 255 00:12:11,900 --> 00:12:15,033 of people from over 5,000 years ago. 256 00:12:16,366 --> 00:12:19,600 A narrow passageway leads to the central chamber 257 00:12:19,600 --> 00:12:22,366 under a 20-foot-high stone dome. 258 00:12:23,300 --> 00:12:25,533 Bones and ashes were placed here 259 00:12:25,533 --> 00:12:28,066 under a massive mound of stone and dirt 260 00:12:28,066 --> 00:12:30,300 to wait for that special moment when, 261 00:12:30,300 --> 00:12:33,666 as the sun rises on the shortest day of the year, 262 00:12:33,666 --> 00:12:36,800 a ray of light shines into the passageway. 263 00:12:36,800 --> 00:12:38,733 And for 17 minutes, 264 00:12:38,733 --> 00:12:41,800 it lights the center of the sacred chamber. 265 00:12:44,600 --> 00:12:47,100 Perhaps this was the moment when the souls of the dead 266 00:12:47,100 --> 00:12:49,366 would be transported to the afterlife 267 00:12:49,366 --> 00:12:51,466 via that mysterious ray of life-giving 268 00:12:51,466 --> 00:12:53,200 and life-taking sunlight. 269 00:12:54,400 --> 00:12:56,600 Long before the earliest pyramids of Egypt, 270 00:12:56,600 --> 00:12:59,000 across Europe, the last part of the Stone Age 271 00:12:59,000 --> 00:13:01,966 was marked by tribes settling down, 272 00:13:01,966 --> 00:13:05,500 shifting from hunter-gatherers to farmers. 273 00:13:05,500 --> 00:13:07,733 This was called the Late Stone Age, 274 00:13:07,733 --> 00:13:09,733 also called the Neolithic Age, 275 00:13:09,733 --> 00:13:12,066 still before the advent of metalworking. 276 00:13:14,200 --> 00:13:16,766 You'll find wonders from our distant past, 277 00:13:16,766 --> 00:13:20,600 both Stone and the later Metal Ages, far and wide. 278 00:13:20,600 --> 00:13:22,833 About as far south as you can go in Europe 279 00:13:22,833 --> 00:13:24,833 on the Mediterranean island of Malta, 280 00:13:24,833 --> 00:13:26,933 the landscape seems timeless 281 00:13:26,933 --> 00:13:29,100 and is dotted with prehistoric ruins 282 00:13:29,100 --> 00:13:32,900 dating back an astounding 5,000 years. 283 00:13:32,900 --> 00:13:35,800 Megalithic sites like Hagar Qim are evidence 284 00:13:35,800 --> 00:13:38,400 that in roughly 3000 BC, 285 00:13:38,400 --> 00:13:42,500 settlers from Sicily arrived here in search of arable land. 286 00:13:42,500 --> 00:13:44,166 While the humble mud brick village 287 00:13:44,166 --> 00:13:46,733 that once surrounded this temple is long gone, 288 00:13:46,733 --> 00:13:49,466 stones from the temple still stand. 289 00:13:49,466 --> 00:13:51,966 Archeologists believe this was a temple 290 00:13:51,966 --> 00:13:53,933 to a fertility goddess 291 00:13:53,933 --> 00:13:57,200 and that it functioned as a celestial calendar. 292 00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,733 (bright music) 293 00:14:00,866 --> 00:14:03,633 But it seems most of Europe's oldest wonders 294 00:14:03,633 --> 00:14:05,900 are in Britain and Ireland. 295 00:14:08,033 --> 00:14:12,200 Scotland is littered with reminders of prehistoric people. 296 00:14:12,200 --> 00:14:15,700 At Clava Cairns, three Bronze Age burial chambers 297 00:14:15,700 --> 00:14:18,233 date from about 4,000 years ago. 298 00:14:19,533 --> 00:14:22,300 Each was once buried under turf-covered mounds 299 00:14:22,300 --> 00:14:24,433 and surrounded by a stone circle. 300 00:14:26,366 --> 00:14:30,833 The central ring cairn has an open space in its middle. 301 00:14:30,833 --> 00:14:34,133 The two passage cairns each have an entrance shaft 302 00:14:34,133 --> 00:14:38,233 that, on the winter solstice, lines up with the setting sun. 303 00:14:38,233 --> 00:14:41,066 (peaceful music) 304 00:14:42,933 --> 00:14:46,200 Visitors are caught up in the peaceful wonder 305 00:14:46,200 --> 00:14:49,366 of this ancient and sacred site. 306 00:14:51,766 --> 00:14:53,933 Enjoy the mystery of this place. 307 00:14:53,933 --> 00:14:57,233 Were these stone circles part of a celestial calendar? 308 00:14:57,233 --> 00:15:00,700 Was the soul of the deceased transported into the next life 309 00:15:00,700 --> 00:15:02,800 when the sun was just right? 310 00:15:02,800 --> 00:15:04,333 Nobody really knows. 311 00:15:05,733 --> 00:15:08,900 On the remote Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland, 312 00:15:08,900 --> 00:15:10,233 a main attraction 313 00:15:10,233 --> 00:15:14,366 is the 2,000-year-old fortress of Dun Aengus, 314 00:15:14,366 --> 00:15:17,333 which hangs precariously on the edge of a cliff 315 00:15:17,333 --> 00:15:19,766 300 feet above the Atlantic. 316 00:15:19,766 --> 00:15:23,366 (suspenseful music) 317 00:15:23,366 --> 00:15:26,633 The concentric walls of this mysterious Celtic fort 318 00:15:26,633 --> 00:15:29,700 are 13 feet thick and 10 feet high. 319 00:15:30,866 --> 00:15:33,766 As an added defense effective even today, 320 00:15:33,766 --> 00:15:36,800 the fort is ringed with a commotion of spiky stones 321 00:15:36,800 --> 00:15:40,600 called Frisian soldiers sticking up like lances. 322 00:15:40,600 --> 00:15:42,500 They're named after the ancient soldiers 323 00:15:42,500 --> 00:15:46,900 who used a wall of spears to stop a charging cavalry. 324 00:15:46,900 --> 00:15:49,100 Little by little, as the cliff erodes, 325 00:15:49,100 --> 00:15:52,733 the walls of this circular fort fall into the sea below. 326 00:15:53,833 --> 00:15:56,666 Dun Aengus can be mobbed by day-trippers. 327 00:15:56,666 --> 00:15:59,633 I make a point to be all alone her, 328 00:15:59,633 --> 00:16:02,300 where the crashing waves below seem to say, 329 00:16:02,300 --> 00:16:05,666 "You've come to the very edge of Europe." 330 00:16:12,300 --> 00:16:14,800 And on Scotland's dramatic Isle of Skye, 331 00:16:14,800 --> 00:16:16,366 if you know where to look, 332 00:16:16,366 --> 00:16:20,166 you can also find the scant remains of past civilizations. 333 00:16:21,500 --> 00:16:23,666 Just a short hike from a handy parking lot 334 00:16:23,666 --> 00:16:26,633 is Skye's best preserved Iron Age Fort, 335 00:16:26,633 --> 00:16:27,633 Dun Beag. 336 00:16:29,400 --> 00:16:31,533 Exploring this prehistoric stone tower 337 00:16:31,533 --> 00:16:34,666 connects us with Skye's distant past. 338 00:16:34,666 --> 00:16:36,133 Judging from these stones, 339 00:16:36,133 --> 00:16:39,033 the tower once stood much taller. 340 00:16:39,033 --> 00:16:41,800 I love scrambling through ruined castles, 341 00:16:41,800 --> 00:16:45,000 and this one is particularly evocative. 342 00:16:45,000 --> 00:16:46,533 - Well, people have been living on the Isle of Skye 343 00:16:46,533 --> 00:16:48,000 for thousands of years. 344 00:16:48,000 --> 00:16:49,333 And this place, if you imagine, 345 00:16:49,333 --> 00:16:51,233 it probably had a timber frame inside 346 00:16:51,233 --> 00:16:52,566 three stories high. 347 00:16:52,566 --> 00:16:54,200 They would get in here under times of attack. 348 00:16:54,200 --> 00:16:55,333 They could gather in here, 349 00:16:55,333 --> 00:16:56,833 the community, men, women, children, 350 00:16:56,833 --> 00:16:58,400 and their domesticated animals, 351 00:16:58,400 --> 00:17:02,033 and we think this was built around about 2,000 years ago. 352 00:17:02,033 --> 00:17:04,866 (peaceful music) 353 00:17:07,966 --> 00:17:11,033 - On the Isle of Orkney at the far north of Scotland 354 00:17:11,033 --> 00:17:13,366 in what seems like just another field 355 00:17:13,366 --> 00:17:16,733 is a remarkable burial mound or chambered tomb. 356 00:17:17,700 --> 00:17:19,266 For 5,000 years, 357 00:17:19,266 --> 00:17:23,400 people have lowered their heads to enter this sacred space. 358 00:17:23,400 --> 00:17:26,300 (plaintive music) 359 00:17:30,266 --> 00:17:32,333 Wow, this is great! 360 00:17:32,333 --> 00:17:33,333 Tell me about this place. 361 00:17:33,333 --> 00:17:35,433 - This is a burial chamber, 362 00:17:35,433 --> 00:17:38,533 and to our right and our left and behind you 363 00:17:38,533 --> 00:17:40,200 are three tombs. 364 00:17:41,033 --> 00:17:43,400 On winter solstice, at sunset, 365 00:17:43,400 --> 00:17:46,200 the sun streams through this position here 366 00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:48,466 and illuminates the back chamber. 367 00:17:48,466 --> 00:17:49,300 - Wow! 368 00:17:49,300 --> 00:17:51,700 - The stone is sandstone 369 00:17:51,700 --> 00:17:54,400 and it's been hand-carved and corbeled, 370 00:17:54,400 --> 00:17:58,133 vaulted into position to make this beautiful chamber. 371 00:17:58,133 --> 00:18:02,166 And how Neolithic man managed to build this structure, 372 00:18:02,166 --> 00:18:03,300 no one really knows. 373 00:18:06,966 --> 00:18:08,733 - [Rick] Orkney is dotted with monuments 374 00:18:08,733 --> 00:18:11,966 recalling when it was a center of civilization 375 00:18:11,966 --> 00:18:13,500 back in the Stone Age, 376 00:18:13,500 --> 00:18:17,100 with more people then than there are on the island today. 377 00:18:18,233 --> 00:18:20,066 Imagine a community here, 378 00:18:20,066 --> 00:18:24,833 hunkered down in subterranean homes connected by tunnels. 379 00:18:24,833 --> 00:18:26,033 - There was a big community, 380 00:18:26,033 --> 00:18:28,433 150 people living here at one stage. 381 00:18:28,433 --> 00:18:30,200 A third of the village remains. 382 00:18:30,200 --> 00:18:33,666 Two-thirds were taken away by the North Atlantic. 383 00:18:33,666 --> 00:18:35,133 People lived under the ground 384 00:18:35,133 --> 00:18:39,100 in stone-type igloo buildings with turf roofs, 385 00:18:39,100 --> 00:18:40,366 and they lived under the ground 386 00:18:40,366 --> 00:18:42,533 to keep the weather out, to keep them warm. 387 00:18:42,533 --> 00:18:44,700 They were powered by oil lamps 388 00:18:44,700 --> 00:18:48,233 with whale oil and whalebone bases, 389 00:18:48,233 --> 00:18:50,333 and a very nice-looking community. 390 00:18:50,333 --> 00:18:53,133 (peaceful music) 391 00:18:57,633 --> 00:19:00,500 - While little remains from these prehistoric people, 392 00:19:00,500 --> 00:19:03,200 it seems clear the timeless mysteries 393 00:19:03,200 --> 00:19:06,466 of life, birth, death, and what lies beyond 394 00:19:06,466 --> 00:19:07,966 were on their minds. 395 00:19:08,933 --> 00:19:11,033 From the very earliest times, 396 00:19:11,033 --> 00:19:14,733 the most common art created was small statues of women. 397 00:19:16,333 --> 00:19:19,433 They have long been called Venus figurines. 398 00:19:19,433 --> 00:19:20,900 Across many ages, 399 00:19:20,900 --> 00:19:23,033 whether lean or bountiful, 400 00:19:23,033 --> 00:19:25,000 these have similar features. 401 00:19:25,000 --> 00:19:27,766 Arms folded, generic faces, 402 00:19:27,766 --> 00:19:30,400 and stylized breasts and pubic area. 403 00:19:31,533 --> 00:19:34,433 By emphasizing a woman's life-giving traits, 404 00:19:34,433 --> 00:19:36,766 they were likely fertility symbols, 405 00:19:36,766 --> 00:19:40,166 perhaps worshiped as a way to gain mother nature's favor 406 00:19:40,166 --> 00:19:44,400 for having a child, a good harvest, or rebirth. 407 00:19:46,133 --> 00:19:48,533 Amazingly, early people created such art 408 00:19:48,533 --> 00:19:51,266 before writing and before metal tools. 409 00:19:51,266 --> 00:19:53,966 The prehistoric era is divided into ages 410 00:19:53,966 --> 00:19:57,166 defined by ever-more-sophisticated technology, 411 00:19:57,166 --> 00:19:58,433 from the Stone Age, 412 00:19:58,433 --> 00:20:00,833 to early metalworking in the Bronze Age, 413 00:20:00,833 --> 00:20:03,433 to stronger objects of the Iron Age. 414 00:20:03,433 --> 00:20:05,133 It's by their tools and weapons 415 00:20:05,133 --> 00:20:07,766 that we know how advanced a society was. 416 00:20:07,766 --> 00:20:11,266 And as prehistory progressed from stone to metal, 417 00:20:11,266 --> 00:20:13,466 art also took a step forward. 418 00:20:14,233 --> 00:20:15,833 The so-called bog people, 419 00:20:15,833 --> 00:20:17,966 whose bodies, weapons, and treasures 420 00:20:17,966 --> 00:20:19,733 were preserved in peat bogs, 421 00:20:19,733 --> 00:20:23,166 give us an intimate peek at prehistoric lives. 422 00:20:24,433 --> 00:20:27,366 As early people believed the gods lived in the bogs, 423 00:20:27,366 --> 00:20:31,100 that's where they tossed their sacrificial offerings. 424 00:20:31,100 --> 00:20:32,666 After defeating your enemy, 425 00:20:32,666 --> 00:20:34,866 logically, you'd sacrifice him 426 00:20:34,866 --> 00:20:37,866 and toss his weapons to the bog gods. 427 00:20:37,866 --> 00:20:40,333 Because of the oxygen-free environment, 428 00:20:40,333 --> 00:20:43,133 this 2,300-year-old bog man 429 00:20:43,133 --> 00:20:45,800 looks like a fellow half his age. 430 00:20:45,800 --> 00:20:48,200 Archeologists think he looked like this 431 00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:50,633 in happier times. 432 00:20:50,633 --> 00:20:53,033 He sprawls out in his glass tomb 433 00:20:53,033 --> 00:20:55,266 as if to welcome visitors young and old 434 00:20:55,266 --> 00:20:57,933 to marvel at his skin, 435 00:20:57,933 --> 00:20:59,566 nails, 436 00:20:59,566 --> 00:21:02,300 and even the slit throat he was given 437 00:21:02,300 --> 00:21:04,666 back at his sacrificial banquet. 438 00:21:06,133 --> 00:21:08,566 This elderly woman from Denmark 439 00:21:08,566 --> 00:21:10,833 whose coffin, carved out of an oak tree, 440 00:21:10,833 --> 00:21:13,133 was preserved in a peaty bog, 441 00:21:13,133 --> 00:21:15,800 must have believed in an afterlife. 442 00:21:15,800 --> 00:21:17,266 Imagine her loved ones 443 00:21:17,266 --> 00:21:20,533 tenderly placing these precious possessions with her. 444 00:21:20,533 --> 00:21:23,066 Still wearing her original wool blouse, 445 00:21:23,066 --> 00:21:25,733 she packed a finely-carved horn comb, 446 00:21:25,733 --> 00:21:28,500 bronze jewelry, and a dagger. 447 00:21:28,500 --> 00:21:30,766 (gentle music) 448 00:21:30,766 --> 00:21:31,800 Back in Britain, 449 00:21:31,800 --> 00:21:33,633 we're driving deep into Scotland 450 00:21:33,633 --> 00:21:36,833 to learn how some of the original highlanders lived. 451 00:21:36,833 --> 00:21:37,966 Across Scotland, 452 00:21:37,966 --> 00:21:39,866 little round islands on lakes 453 00:21:39,866 --> 00:21:43,066 are the remains of prehistoric fortified homes. 454 00:21:43,066 --> 00:21:45,000 These are called crannogs 455 00:21:45,000 --> 00:21:47,600 and date back centuries before Christ. 456 00:21:48,833 --> 00:21:50,833 Here at the Crannog Centre on Loch Tay, 457 00:21:50,833 --> 00:21:54,100 one's been rebuilt using mostly traditional methods, 458 00:21:54,100 --> 00:21:56,766 and now welcomes visitors. 459 00:21:56,766 --> 00:21:58,733 - This is the Scottish Crannog Center. 460 00:21:58,733 --> 00:22:01,166 It's a reproduction of a 2,500-year-old crannog 461 00:22:01,166 --> 00:22:03,466 that the archeologists are excavating 462 00:22:03,466 --> 00:22:05,966 as we speak in Loch Tay right now. 463 00:22:05,966 --> 00:22:08,666 It was built out in the loch itself 464 00:22:08,666 --> 00:22:10,200 for defensive purposes. 465 00:22:10,200 --> 00:22:12,233 In Scotland, then, you had bears, you had wolves, 466 00:22:12,233 --> 00:22:15,066 you had big cats called lynx, 467 00:22:15,066 --> 00:22:16,700 other people roaming the countryside. 468 00:22:16,700 --> 00:22:18,100 And if you're out here in the water, 469 00:22:18,100 --> 00:22:19,933 there's only one way in and out, 470 00:22:19,933 --> 00:22:20,866 and that's the walkway. 471 00:22:20,866 --> 00:22:22,566 So, if you can keep that secure, 472 00:22:22,566 --> 00:22:25,566 you yourself in here are going to feel a lot safer. 473 00:22:25,566 --> 00:22:29,033 - [Rick] Guides demonstrate Iron Age technology. 474 00:22:29,033 --> 00:22:30,300 Turning a lathe. 475 00:22:30,300 --> 00:22:33,533 (lathe scratching) 476 00:22:33,533 --> 00:22:34,900 Grinding flour. 477 00:22:34,900 --> 00:22:36,800 - [Guide] These two stones against each other 478 00:22:36,800 --> 00:22:38,133 with the grain. 479 00:22:38,133 --> 00:22:39,866 - [Rick] And even starting a fire 480 00:22:39,866 --> 00:22:42,566 the really old-fashioned way. 481 00:22:42,566 --> 00:22:43,766 - [Guide] Watch that. 482 00:22:43,766 --> 00:22:46,400 (bright music) 483 00:22:51,566 --> 00:22:52,533 - Cool! 484 00:22:52,533 --> 00:22:54,266 - That's how you get your fire. 485 00:22:54,266 --> 00:22:56,600 - You can give the tools a try yourself 486 00:22:56,600 --> 00:22:59,233 and discover how easy the guides make it look. 487 00:23:00,900 --> 00:23:02,833 Despite their simple technology, 488 00:23:02,833 --> 00:23:06,700 early people created some richly-decorated objects. 489 00:23:06,700 --> 00:23:08,133 All of these artifacts 490 00:23:08,133 --> 00:23:11,900 are unnecessarily beautiful and ornate. 491 00:23:11,900 --> 00:23:15,033 The creative spirit of humankind becomes evident 492 00:23:15,033 --> 00:23:16,366 very early on. 493 00:23:18,166 --> 00:23:21,900 These were ritual objects made by sun worshipers. 494 00:23:21,900 --> 00:23:24,366 This chariot of the sun from Denmark 495 00:23:24,366 --> 00:23:27,133 illustrates how the sun was dragged across the sky 496 00:23:27,133 --> 00:23:29,300 by a divine horse. 497 00:23:29,300 --> 00:23:30,833 These horned helmets 498 00:23:30,833 --> 00:23:33,466 were worn by the ancestors of the Vikings 499 00:23:33,466 --> 00:23:36,500 as pagan priests sounded these horns, 500 00:23:36,500 --> 00:23:40,700 adding atmosphere to this now eerie ritual. 501 00:23:40,700 --> 00:23:44,800 Well 3,000 years old, they still play. 502 00:23:44,800 --> 00:23:47,433 The ornamental disc is a sun symbol, 503 00:23:47,433 --> 00:23:49,133 perhaps as if these horns played 504 00:23:49,133 --> 00:23:51,566 the magical music of the sun. 505 00:23:51,566 --> 00:23:54,300 (horns blaring) 506 00:23:55,833 --> 00:23:57,566 From Ireland to Greece, 507 00:23:57,566 --> 00:24:01,133 these early societies invested in art. 508 00:24:01,133 --> 00:24:02,766 These precious artifacts, 509 00:24:02,766 --> 00:24:04,133 from golden jewelry 510 00:24:04,133 --> 00:24:07,100 to finely decorated implements of daily life, 511 00:24:07,100 --> 00:24:10,066 are more reminders that those earliest Europeans 512 00:24:10,066 --> 00:24:13,633 had an eye for beauty and a passion for art. 513 00:24:17,233 --> 00:24:20,033 Europe offers a lifetime of artistic treasures, 514 00:24:20,033 --> 00:24:21,700 and the more you understand its art, 515 00:24:21,700 --> 00:24:25,000 the more you'll appreciate the people who created it. 516 00:24:25,000 --> 00:24:26,433 I hope you've enjoyed our sweep 517 00:24:26,433 --> 00:24:28,966 through the highlights of Prehistoric Europe, 518 00:24:28,966 --> 00:24:31,133 and Prehistoric Europe is just the beginning 519 00:24:31,133 --> 00:24:33,100 of a fascinating story. 520 00:24:33,100 --> 00:24:34,233 I'm Rick Steves. 521 00:24:34,233 --> 00:24:36,766 Until next time, keep on traveling. 522 00:24:40,200 --> 00:24:41,333 Hey, I'm Rick Steves, 523 00:24:41,333 --> 00:24:43,266 host of "Rick Steves' Europe". 524 00:24:43,266 --> 00:24:44,733 As you ponder whether or not 525 00:24:44,733 --> 00:24:47,600 to become a supporting member of this great station, 526 00:24:47,600 --> 00:24:49,300 I'd like to challenge you to consider 527 00:24:49,300 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