1 00:00:01,566 --> 00:00:03,966 - Hi, I'm Rick Steves, celebrating Easter all across Europe. 2 00:00:03,966 --> 00:00:05,266 Easter is the most thoughtful 3 00:00:05,266 --> 00:00:07,466 and sacred of Christian holidays. 4 00:00:07,466 --> 00:00:11,066 It's a time of quiet reflection and passionate ritual, 5 00:00:11,066 --> 00:00:14,233 swinging from great sorrow to great joy. 6 00:00:14,233 --> 00:00:16,733 Across generations and across cultures, 7 00:00:16,733 --> 00:00:19,000 Easter celebrates both resurrection 8 00:00:19,000 --> 00:00:21,366 and the promise of new life. 9 00:00:21,366 --> 00:00:24,166 (pleasant music) 10 00:00:53,000 --> 00:00:54,633 (gentle music) 11 00:00:54,633 --> 00:00:58,866 Across Europe, Easter is steeped in history and tradition. 12 00:00:58,866 --> 00:01:00,733 And it also marks the end of winter 13 00:01:00,733 --> 00:01:02,933 and the start of spring. 14 00:01:02,933 --> 00:01:05,833 Tracing the entire two month long celebration, 15 00:01:05,833 --> 00:01:08,733 we'll start with the craziness of Carnival, 16 00:01:08,733 --> 00:01:11,100 then Venice with masked balls, 17 00:01:11,100 --> 00:01:14,000 Slovenia with monsters on the rampage. 18 00:01:14,000 --> 00:01:16,933 And in Switzerland, we'll see the finale of Carnival, 19 00:01:16,933 --> 00:01:19,300 what we call Mardi Gras. 20 00:01:19,300 --> 00:01:23,433 This is followed by sobriety, 40 days of Lent. 21 00:01:23,433 --> 00:01:25,000 Then from Palm Sunday 22 00:01:25,000 --> 00:01:28,833 with rituals ranging from Spain to Slovenia, 23 00:01:28,833 --> 00:01:32,833 to Italy, and the Vatican to Greece. 24 00:01:32,833 --> 00:01:36,100 We'll trace the day by day story of Holy Week, 25 00:01:36,100 --> 00:01:39,833 when Jesus was arrested, tried, and executed. 26 00:01:41,233 --> 00:01:44,033 We'll see the secular traditions that accompany Easter, 27 00:01:44,033 --> 00:01:48,233 that world of kids, chocolate eggs, and local delicacies. 28 00:01:48,233 --> 00:01:50,633 Lots of wonderful holiday treats, 29 00:01:50,633 --> 00:01:53,900 home cooking, and traditional dishes. 30 00:01:53,900 --> 00:01:57,333 Finally, we'll experience the joy of Easter Sunday 31 00:01:57,333 --> 00:01:59,333 as various cultures across Europe 32 00:01:59,333 --> 00:02:01,833 celebrate the resurrection of Jesus, 33 00:02:01,833 --> 00:02:06,333 along with the return of spring, each in their own way. 34 00:02:06,333 --> 00:02:08,233 (family speaking foreign language) 35 00:02:08,233 --> 00:02:10,566 While Christmas celebrates the birth of Jesus, 36 00:02:10,566 --> 00:02:13,200 Easter remembers the Central Christian event, 37 00:02:13,200 --> 00:02:16,333 his suffering, crucifixion, and resurrection. 38 00:02:16,333 --> 00:02:19,333 For Christians, it's the story of how Christ died 39 00:02:19,333 --> 00:02:23,200 to save humankind from sin and bring the gift of salvation. 40 00:02:23,200 --> 00:02:24,800 (gentle music) 41 00:02:24,800 --> 00:02:27,166 For nearly 2,000 years, those events described in the Bible 42 00:02:27,166 --> 00:02:30,100 have been expressed through great European art. 43 00:02:30,100 --> 00:02:31,800 The story, called the Passion, 44 00:02:31,800 --> 00:02:34,133 begins a week before Easter Sunday 45 00:02:34,133 --> 00:02:35,566 as Jesus and his followers 46 00:02:35,566 --> 00:02:38,666 make a triumphal entry into Jerusalem. 47 00:02:38,666 --> 00:02:42,533 It's called Palm Sunday because as he approached the city, 48 00:02:42,533 --> 00:02:45,700 a huge crowd welcomed him by waving palm fronds 49 00:02:45,700 --> 00:02:49,666 and shouting joyfully, "Hosanna, Hosanna in the highest." 50 00:02:51,500 --> 00:02:52,800 (stirring music) 51 00:02:52,800 --> 00:02:54,400 But the chief priests and Jewish elders 52 00:02:54,400 --> 00:02:58,400 felt threatened by Jesus, so they plotted to arrest him. 53 00:02:58,400 --> 00:03:02,000 For 30 pieces of silver, one of Jesus' 12 apostles, 54 00:03:02,000 --> 00:03:04,233 Judas, agreed to betray him. 55 00:03:06,000 --> 00:03:09,866 Eating his last supper with his disciples, Jesus said, 56 00:03:09,866 --> 00:03:12,066 "One of you will betray me." 57 00:03:12,066 --> 00:03:14,966 Anxiously they asked, "Lord, is it I?" 58 00:03:16,866 --> 00:03:19,333 After the meal, Jesus and his disciples 59 00:03:19,333 --> 00:03:21,333 went to the garden of Gethsemane. 60 00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:25,966 He asked his disciples to pray with him in his time of need, 61 00:03:25,966 --> 00:03:27,200 but they fell asleep. 62 00:03:28,566 --> 00:03:32,500 A troubled Jesus asked God if he could escape his fate. 63 00:03:32,500 --> 00:03:36,733 He said, "Father, if you are willing, take this cup from me, 64 00:03:36,733 --> 00:03:40,266 yet not my will but yours be done." 65 00:03:40,266 --> 00:03:44,033 As Jesus prayed, Judas arrived with a group of armed men 66 00:03:44,033 --> 00:03:48,300 and as was arranged, identified Jesus with a kiss. 67 00:03:48,300 --> 00:03:50,600 Jesus was arrested and the apostles, 68 00:03:50,600 --> 00:03:52,433 afraid for their lives, fled. 69 00:03:53,800 --> 00:03:56,266 Jesus was bound, handed over to the Roman governor, 70 00:03:56,266 --> 00:03:59,100 Pontius Pilate, and charged with treason. 71 00:03:59,100 --> 00:04:01,700 Pilates saw no reason to convict Jesus, 72 00:04:01,700 --> 00:04:04,233 but the crowd shouted, "Crucify him." 73 00:04:04,233 --> 00:04:07,133 Pilate literally washed his hands of the problem 74 00:04:07,133 --> 00:04:09,600 and turned Jesus over to the mob. 75 00:04:11,033 --> 00:04:13,900 The crowd spit on him and whipped him. 76 00:04:13,900 --> 00:04:17,700 They taunted him, mockingly dressed him in a royal robe, 77 00:04:17,700 --> 00:04:19,233 and crowned him with thorns. 78 00:04:21,066 --> 00:04:25,833 Ridiculing him, the people said, "Hail, king of the Jews." 79 00:04:25,833 --> 00:04:28,766 Jesus was then made to carry his own cross 80 00:04:28,766 --> 00:04:30,433 up the hill of Golgotha, 81 00:04:30,433 --> 00:04:32,933 the place of execution in Jerusalem. 82 00:04:34,366 --> 00:04:36,600 He was stripped, his hands and feet 83 00:04:36,600 --> 00:04:38,100 were nailed to the cross. 84 00:04:40,100 --> 00:04:41,966 The initials above his head stood for, 85 00:04:41,966 --> 00:04:44,466 Jesus of Nazareth, king of the Jews. 86 00:04:45,500 --> 00:04:48,166 Dying and in despair, Jesus cried out, 87 00:04:48,166 --> 00:04:52,400 "My God, my God, why have you forsaken me?" 88 00:04:52,400 --> 00:04:54,566 Then breathing his last, he said, 89 00:04:54,566 --> 00:04:58,433 "Father, into your hands I commit my spirit." 90 00:04:59,900 --> 00:05:02,566 As evening approached, Jesus' grieving friends 91 00:05:02,566 --> 00:05:05,233 gently lowered his body down from the cross. 92 00:05:07,366 --> 00:05:09,366 Wrapping him in a shroud of linen, 93 00:05:09,366 --> 00:05:12,500 they placed his body in a tomb carved out of rock 94 00:05:12,500 --> 00:05:15,666 and protected the entrance with a large stone. 95 00:05:23,833 --> 00:05:26,166 On Sunday morning, Mary Magdalene and the women 96 00:05:26,166 --> 00:05:28,766 who came to anoint his body went to the tomb 97 00:05:28,766 --> 00:05:30,933 and saw the stone was rolled away. 98 00:05:30,933 --> 00:05:32,433 (gentle music) 99 00:05:32,433 --> 00:05:34,800 An angel told them not to worry and that Jesus had risen. 100 00:05:35,900 --> 00:05:38,733 Bewildered and frightened, the women fled. 101 00:05:38,733 --> 00:05:42,166 Suddenly Jesus appeared and said, "Do not be afraid." 102 00:05:43,600 --> 00:05:46,866 He instructed them to tell the apostles that he was alive. 103 00:05:46,866 --> 00:05:48,566 When the apostles saw Jesus, 104 00:05:48,566 --> 00:05:51,066 they couldn't believe it was him. 105 00:05:51,066 --> 00:05:52,633 To prove it was actually him, 106 00:05:52,633 --> 00:05:55,266 he encouraged them to touch his wounds 107 00:05:55,266 --> 00:05:57,000 and they broke bread together. 108 00:06:00,266 --> 00:06:03,533 After 40 days, Jesus blessed his followers and told them 109 00:06:03,533 --> 00:06:05,466 to go out and preach the gospel, 110 00:06:05,466 --> 00:06:08,000 the good news of his resurrection. 111 00:06:08,000 --> 00:06:10,666 Christians believe he then ascended to heaven 112 00:06:10,666 --> 00:06:12,633 before their very eyes. 113 00:06:12,633 --> 00:06:15,200 This remarkable story has helped shaped 114 00:06:15,200 --> 00:06:18,266 Western history for 2,000 years. 115 00:06:18,266 --> 00:06:19,800 (birds chirping) 116 00:06:19,800 --> 00:06:22,266 While Christians have celebrated Easter since ancient times, 117 00:06:22,266 --> 00:06:25,666 the festival itself actually has pre-Christian roots. 118 00:06:25,666 --> 00:06:27,600 And it's no coincidence that it happens 119 00:06:27,600 --> 00:06:29,366 at the start of spring. 120 00:06:29,366 --> 00:06:32,033 Like Christmas replaced the pagan festival of Saturn 121 00:06:32,033 --> 00:06:34,900 in the dead of winter, Easter likely replaced 122 00:06:34,900 --> 00:06:38,300 the celebration of Ostara, a pagan goddess of spring. 123 00:06:38,300 --> 00:06:42,133 It was a time of renewal, birth, and fertility. 124 00:06:42,133 --> 00:06:43,066 (gentle music) 125 00:06:43,066 --> 00:06:44,466 Imagine the bleakness of winter 126 00:06:44,466 --> 00:06:47,066 in ancient and medieval times. 127 00:06:47,066 --> 00:06:52,133 The despair, the short days and long nights, 128 00:06:53,266 --> 00:06:57,466 barren fields, the hunger, and the cold. 129 00:06:59,033 --> 00:07:02,766 Imagine the need for a promise that summer will return. 130 00:07:02,766 --> 00:07:06,100 And the joy when finally, the fields spring to life 131 00:07:06,100 --> 00:07:07,866 and once again bear fruit. 132 00:07:10,433 --> 00:07:14,533 Imagine also the comfort in knowing that God, or the gods, 133 00:07:14,533 --> 00:07:17,333 had not abandoned you and your family. 134 00:07:17,333 --> 00:07:21,233 Rituals, whether Christian or pagan, gave people hope, 135 00:07:21,233 --> 00:07:23,566 reminding them that the darkness of winter 136 00:07:23,566 --> 00:07:26,633 is always followed by life-giving spring. 137 00:07:26,633 --> 00:07:31,700 (gentle music) (birds chirping) 138 00:07:37,500 --> 00:07:40,366 The church wisely adapted the pagan seasonal calendar 139 00:07:40,366 --> 00:07:42,633 to fit the story it wanted to tell. 140 00:07:42,633 --> 00:07:45,400 It rebranded this winter season of scarcity 141 00:07:45,400 --> 00:07:49,333 as a time of purification for Christians and called it Lent. 142 00:07:49,333 --> 00:07:51,500 But before the deprivation of Lent, 143 00:07:51,500 --> 00:07:54,166 there was a rowdy period of anything goes, 144 00:07:54,166 --> 00:07:58,033 and this hedonistic fling is Carnival. 145 00:07:58,033 --> 00:07:59,400 (upbeat music) 146 00:07:59,400 --> 00:08:01,766 Carnival, which culminates in Mardi Gras, 147 00:08:01,766 --> 00:08:05,766 or Fat Tuesday in English, has a wild modern interpretation. 148 00:08:06,633 --> 00:08:08,966 Big parades with marching bands, 149 00:08:10,266 --> 00:08:14,266 crazy costumes, and overindulgence of every kind, 150 00:08:14,266 --> 00:08:17,533 such as here in the Swiss city of Lucerne. 151 00:08:17,533 --> 00:08:19,333 But these modern traditions 152 00:08:19,333 --> 00:08:22,133 actually have pre-Christian pagan roots. 153 00:08:23,366 --> 00:08:25,533 A memorable way to experience these traditions 154 00:08:25,533 --> 00:08:27,833 is in the countryside of Slovenia. 155 00:08:27,833 --> 00:08:30,333 Whether it's in the mountains or the valleys, 156 00:08:30,333 --> 00:08:34,666 a common theme is a visitation of masked hairy creatures. 157 00:08:34,666 --> 00:08:36,633 Some are called currents, 158 00:08:36,633 --> 00:08:39,900 and others are called simply the ugly ones. 159 00:08:39,900 --> 00:08:42,500 These wally monsters parade through villages 160 00:08:42,500 --> 00:08:45,533 making a racket, rattling and clanging their bells 161 00:08:45,533 --> 00:08:48,866 from door to door, chasing away evil spirits, 162 00:08:48,866 --> 00:08:51,766 and trying to frighten off winter. 163 00:08:51,766 --> 00:08:53,766 Homeowners eventually come to the door. 164 00:08:53,766 --> 00:08:56,100 And to quell the clamoring mob, 165 00:08:56,100 --> 00:08:58,266 they give the leader a sausage. 166 00:08:58,266 --> 00:09:02,200 (bells clanging) (gentle music) 167 00:09:02,200 --> 00:09:04,433 And a few cups of wine for the gang. 168 00:09:05,833 --> 00:09:09,933 The ugly ones swing their hips wildly with satisfaction. 169 00:09:09,933 --> 00:09:13,133 This ritual is a remnant from the distant past, 170 00:09:13,133 --> 00:09:14,566 when families were persuaded 171 00:09:14,566 --> 00:09:16,900 to share food during hard times. 172 00:09:18,266 --> 00:09:21,966 Another band of characters also roves from house to house. 173 00:09:21,966 --> 00:09:24,233 A group of plowman pull a colorful wagon 174 00:09:24,233 --> 00:09:26,933 decked out in flowers representing fertility 175 00:09:26,933 --> 00:09:28,266 and the coming of spring. 176 00:09:30,466 --> 00:09:32,300 The homeowner is asked for permission 177 00:09:32,300 --> 00:09:34,100 to plow for the big turnip. 178 00:09:35,200 --> 00:09:37,100 The plowmen then dragged the fanciful plow 179 00:09:37,100 --> 00:09:39,400 behind men dressed as horses. 180 00:09:39,400 --> 00:09:40,933 This wakes up the soil 181 00:09:40,933 --> 00:09:44,833 in preparation for a season of bountiful crops. 182 00:09:44,833 --> 00:09:47,566 Cracking whips announce the procession. 183 00:09:47,566 --> 00:09:49,700 (whips cracking) (gentle music) 184 00:09:49,700 --> 00:09:51,766 After the symbolic plowing and sowing, 185 00:09:51,766 --> 00:09:54,866 the homeowner offers the merry band eggs and sausage 186 00:09:54,866 --> 00:09:58,400 and wishes them good health and a good harvest. 187 00:09:58,400 --> 00:10:00,966 (plowmen chanting) 188 00:10:00,966 --> 00:10:04,600 The best known carnival celebration in Europe is in Venice. 189 00:10:04,600 --> 00:10:06,233 (gentle music) 190 00:10:06,233 --> 00:10:08,333 Each winter carnival casts a spell 191 00:10:08,333 --> 00:10:10,633 on Venetians and visitors alike. 192 00:10:13,633 --> 00:10:16,533 Following a tradition that originated in the 13th century, 193 00:10:16,533 --> 00:10:19,666 the city slips behind a mask of anonymity 194 00:10:19,666 --> 00:10:23,166 as Venetians promenade, pose, 195 00:10:24,600 --> 00:10:26,566 and pretend to be someone they're not. 196 00:10:27,666 --> 00:10:30,833 Authority is challenged, rules are broken. 197 00:10:30,833 --> 00:10:33,700 The goal, to indulge in all the pleasures 198 00:10:33,700 --> 00:10:35,733 that will be forbidden in Lent. 199 00:10:37,266 --> 00:10:41,466 An elegant disguise is both transformative and liberating. 200 00:10:41,466 --> 00:10:45,333 But it's the mask, so symbolic of this enigmatic city, 201 00:10:45,333 --> 00:10:48,700 that functions as a cloak of invisibility. 202 00:10:48,700 --> 00:10:52,466 The pleasurable appeal of anonymity is as powerful today 203 00:10:52,466 --> 00:10:55,233 as it was in the Middle Ages. 204 00:10:55,233 --> 00:10:59,133 As dusk falls, the back streets come alive with strangers. 205 00:10:59,133 --> 00:11:03,566 Now as then, in Venice, decadence rules the night. 206 00:11:04,733 --> 00:11:06,233 (pleasant music) 207 00:11:06,233 --> 00:11:09,033 In Palazzos off the Grand Canal, elaborately staged parties 208 00:11:09,033 --> 00:11:11,633 take the aura of mystery a step further. 209 00:11:12,533 --> 00:11:14,866 Behind their masks, all people 210 00:11:14,866 --> 00:11:18,000 from bankers to bakers are equal. 211 00:11:18,000 --> 00:11:20,566 Tonight, no one knows who's who, 212 00:11:20,566 --> 00:11:23,300 and reality seems a distant dream. 213 00:11:23,300 --> 00:11:25,433 And as it was centuries ago, 214 00:11:25,433 --> 00:11:29,066 what happens in Venice stays in Venice. 215 00:11:29,066 --> 00:11:31,866 (pleasant music) 216 00:11:33,433 --> 00:11:35,433 (bell gonging) 217 00:11:35,433 --> 00:11:38,066 Finally, with the arrival of Ash Wednesday, 218 00:11:38,066 --> 00:11:39,700 the party's over. 219 00:11:39,700 --> 00:11:42,333 Repentant revelers go to church for a mass 220 00:11:42,333 --> 00:11:44,766 that marks the beginning of Lent, 221 00:11:44,766 --> 00:11:47,733 a 40 day period of fasting and reflection 222 00:11:47,733 --> 00:11:51,000 as Christendom prepares for Easter. 223 00:11:51,000 --> 00:11:54,233 The priest marks each worshiper's forehead with ash, 224 00:11:54,233 --> 00:11:57,000 which symbolizes purification by fire. 225 00:12:00,566 --> 00:12:02,700 The 40 days of Lent represent the time 226 00:12:02,700 --> 00:12:04,966 Jesus spent in the wilderness. 227 00:12:04,966 --> 00:12:06,766 He was preparing for the culmination 228 00:12:06,766 --> 00:12:10,133 of his ministry on earth, and being tempted by the devil. 229 00:12:10,133 --> 00:12:13,633 It's a time when Christians reflect on Christ's suffering 230 00:12:13,633 --> 00:12:16,100 and on our own sins. 231 00:12:16,100 --> 00:12:19,733 During Lent, people give up a favorite activity or food. 232 00:12:19,733 --> 00:12:21,866 It's a time to put aside distractions 233 00:12:21,866 --> 00:12:25,066 and focus on God's presence in our lives. 234 00:12:25,066 --> 00:12:26,866 (gentle music) 235 00:12:26,866 --> 00:12:30,866 Historically, Lent was the final stretch of winter. 236 00:12:30,866 --> 00:12:34,466 The last of the meat was finished during Carnival. 237 00:12:34,466 --> 00:12:36,966 There would be no eggs until spring. 238 00:12:39,500 --> 00:12:42,166 Through centuries when simply surviving the winter 239 00:12:42,166 --> 00:12:44,566 was a challenge, this was a time 240 00:12:44,566 --> 00:12:47,333 that required a strong faith. 241 00:12:47,333 --> 00:12:49,966 (gentle music) 242 00:12:54,133 --> 00:12:57,600 As the world awakes from winter, the austerity of Lent 243 00:12:57,600 --> 00:12:59,566 gives way to Holy Week. 244 00:12:59,566 --> 00:13:02,300 This week, from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday, 245 00:13:02,300 --> 00:13:04,433 is the most sacred of the Christian year. 246 00:13:04,433 --> 00:13:07,833 And Europeans mark each day in unique ways. 247 00:13:07,833 --> 00:13:11,033 Holy days build emotionally to the resurrection. 248 00:13:11,033 --> 00:13:14,666 Ranging from Spain to Slovenia and Italy to Greece, 249 00:13:14,666 --> 00:13:17,600 we'll peek in on each of these days. 250 00:13:17,600 --> 00:13:18,733 (bells gonging) 251 00:13:18,733 --> 00:13:21,233 Holy Week begins with Palm Sunday, 252 00:13:21,233 --> 00:13:25,200 the day Jesus entered Jerusalem to a hero's welcome. 253 00:13:25,200 --> 00:13:27,833 In Rome, the Vatican kicks off Holy Week 254 00:13:27,833 --> 00:13:31,266 with a beautifully orchestrated high church event. 255 00:13:31,266 --> 00:13:33,300 The faithful fill Saint Peter's Square, 256 00:13:33,300 --> 00:13:35,966 facing the greatest church in Christendom. 257 00:13:35,966 --> 00:13:37,133 (choristers vocalizing) 258 00:13:37,133 --> 00:13:39,000 Forests of palm fronds are a reminder 259 00:13:39,000 --> 00:13:40,733 of Jesus' triumphant entry. 260 00:13:42,033 --> 00:13:45,400 Cardinals and bishops add to the glory of the day, 261 00:13:45,400 --> 00:13:49,133 and the Pope arrives with fanfare to bless the palms. 262 00:13:50,133 --> 00:13:51,933 While the Pope gets the TV coverage, 263 00:13:51,933 --> 00:13:54,366 Palm Sunday is celebrated across Europe 264 00:13:54,366 --> 00:13:57,300 in churches both grand and humble. 265 00:13:57,300 --> 00:13:59,600 In Tuscan villages, parishioners have 266 00:13:59,600 --> 00:14:01,100 olive branches blessed. 267 00:14:01,100 --> 00:14:04,233 Whether palm or olive, both are evergreen, 268 00:14:04,233 --> 00:14:07,300 and both symbolic of the promise of new life. 269 00:14:08,066 --> 00:14:10,733 (upbeat music) 270 00:14:11,900 --> 00:14:14,833 In Spain, Holy Week is called Semana Santa. 271 00:14:14,833 --> 00:14:18,033 It's celebrated with unrivaled pageantry and emotion, 272 00:14:18,033 --> 00:14:21,266 most famously in Seville, or Sevilla. 273 00:14:21,266 --> 00:14:24,933 Here, Semana Santa is an epic event that stirs the soul 274 00:14:24,933 --> 00:14:27,300 and captivates all who participate. 275 00:14:29,700 --> 00:14:31,200 (gentle music) 276 00:14:31,200 --> 00:14:34,466 On Palm Sunday, families dressed up for this important day 277 00:14:34,466 --> 00:14:36,900 head into their parish church for mass. 278 00:14:37,833 --> 00:14:39,133 (bell ringing) 279 00:14:39,133 --> 00:14:41,733 Then, promenading with palm and olive branches, 280 00:14:41,733 --> 00:14:43,600 they make a loop through the neighborhood, 281 00:14:43,600 --> 00:14:46,633 eventually returning to their home church. 282 00:14:46,633 --> 00:14:49,300 (gentle music) 283 00:14:51,833 --> 00:14:55,133 Afterwards, they visit other churches throughout the city, 284 00:14:55,133 --> 00:14:57,433 each displaying elaborate floats. 285 00:14:59,233 --> 00:15:02,400 Sevilla has many religious brotherhoods or fraternities 286 00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:05,200 that are entrusted with the care of venerable floats 287 00:15:05,200 --> 00:15:07,700 that carry statues of Christ and the Virgin Mary 288 00:15:07,700 --> 00:15:10,366 through the streets during Semana Santa. 289 00:15:10,366 --> 00:15:14,833 These floats have a dual purpose, to teach and to honor. 290 00:15:14,833 --> 00:15:17,633 They provide parents with a way to talk to their children 291 00:15:17,633 --> 00:15:19,833 about the last days of Jesus' life, 292 00:15:19,833 --> 00:15:23,033 as well as how to deal with complex emotions 293 00:15:23,033 --> 00:15:25,733 like suffering and grief. 294 00:15:25,733 --> 00:15:29,400 Sevillanos hold a special place in their hearts for Mary. 295 00:15:29,400 --> 00:15:32,066 Floats with Mary evoke great emotions, 296 00:15:32,066 --> 00:15:33,900 and remind them of the grieving mother 297 00:15:33,900 --> 00:15:35,933 who has lost her only son. 298 00:15:37,533 --> 00:15:40,800 Every neighborhood church has its own unique Mary. 299 00:15:40,800 --> 00:15:43,966 All are the grieving mothers of the crucified Christ, 300 00:15:43,966 --> 00:15:47,866 but each one represents a different aspect of her sorrow. 301 00:15:48,733 --> 00:15:51,033 And there are other floats. 302 00:15:51,033 --> 00:15:54,566 This one, nicknamed La Borriquita or the Little Donkey, 303 00:15:54,566 --> 00:15:57,633 depicts Jesus' grand entrance into Jerusalem. 304 00:15:58,600 --> 00:16:00,900 (pleasant music) 305 00:16:00,900 --> 00:16:04,066 La Borriquita leaves its church and begins its procession 306 00:16:04,066 --> 00:16:05,533 through the narrow streets. 307 00:16:05,533 --> 00:16:08,233 This marks the official start of Holy Week. 308 00:16:08,233 --> 00:16:11,033 From now on every day until Easter Sunday, 309 00:16:11,033 --> 00:16:14,500 the city is enlivened with dozens of such processions. 310 00:16:14,500 --> 00:16:15,766 (gentle music) 311 00:16:15,766 --> 00:16:17,333 These ritual parades first filled the streets 312 00:16:17,333 --> 00:16:19,633 of Sevilla 400 years ago. 313 00:16:19,633 --> 00:16:22,600 They're designed to present the story of the Passion, 314 00:16:22,600 --> 00:16:24,500 the death and resurrection of Jesus, 315 00:16:24,500 --> 00:16:27,333 in a way the average person could understand. 316 00:16:28,733 --> 00:16:32,633 Today some 60 fraternities each make the journey on foot, 317 00:16:32,633 --> 00:16:35,066 carrying floats and processions like these 318 00:16:35,066 --> 00:16:39,333 from their parishes to the city's cathedral and back. 319 00:16:39,333 --> 00:16:42,266 The journey through miles of passionate crowds 320 00:16:42,266 --> 00:16:45,533 can take up to 14 hours. 321 00:16:45,533 --> 00:16:49,400 Strong men, called costaleros, work in shifts. 322 00:16:49,400 --> 00:16:52,300 As a team, they bear two tons of weight 323 00:16:52,300 --> 00:16:53,933 on the backs of their necks. 324 00:16:53,933 --> 00:16:56,300 An experience they consider a great honor, 325 00:16:56,300 --> 00:17:00,066 despite and indeed because of the pain involved. 326 00:17:01,266 --> 00:17:02,900 The caped and hooded figures 327 00:17:02,900 --> 00:17:06,266 of devoted penitents surround the floats. 328 00:17:06,266 --> 00:17:10,166 These are an icon of Semana Santa celebrations. 329 00:17:10,166 --> 00:17:12,733 Unfortunately, for most Americans, 330 00:17:12,733 --> 00:17:16,066 these masked figures evoke the Ku Klux Klan. 331 00:17:18,133 --> 00:17:22,566 But these outfits predate the racist KKK by centuries. 332 00:17:22,566 --> 00:17:25,600 And ironically, the original purpose of the hoods 333 00:17:25,600 --> 00:17:28,866 was to show that everyone is equal in the eyes of God. 334 00:17:28,866 --> 00:17:32,733 And to ensure that sinners could repent in anonymity. 335 00:17:33,900 --> 00:17:36,200 Unaware of the confusion their cones may cause 336 00:17:36,200 --> 00:17:38,033 many visitors on Palm Sunday, 337 00:17:38,033 --> 00:17:40,900 the youngest penitents continue on their way. 338 00:17:40,900 --> 00:17:45,000 Some are into it and others not so much, 339 00:17:45,000 --> 00:17:48,000 but all take their place in a sacred Easter ritual 340 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:51,200 that's been practiced for hundreds of years. 341 00:17:51,200 --> 00:17:55,166 (crowd speaking foreign language) 342 00:17:55,166 --> 00:17:58,433 While Palm Sunday kicks Holy Week off with grand spectacle, 343 00:17:58,433 --> 00:18:01,166 Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday are quieter. 344 00:18:01,166 --> 00:18:02,566 According to the Bible, 345 00:18:02,566 --> 00:18:06,166 Jesus disappoints those expecting a conquering hero. 346 00:18:06,166 --> 00:18:10,133 And things move step by step toward his execution. 347 00:18:10,133 --> 00:18:12,933 In every culture, communities take these days 348 00:18:12,933 --> 00:18:14,966 to prepare for Easter. 349 00:18:14,966 --> 00:18:17,166 (pleasant music) 350 00:18:17,166 --> 00:18:20,133 While traditions vary, eggs are a recurring theme 351 00:18:20,133 --> 00:18:21,366 at Easter time. 352 00:18:21,366 --> 00:18:23,766 In Greece, Orthodox churches display 353 00:18:23,766 --> 00:18:26,333 exquisitely painted ostrich eggs. 354 00:18:26,333 --> 00:18:28,766 Symbolic of rebirth and resurrection, 355 00:18:28,766 --> 00:18:31,766 they hang prominently from ornate chandeliers. 356 00:18:32,933 --> 00:18:34,466 (godmother speaking Greek) 357 00:18:34,466 --> 00:18:37,433 Greece celebrates Easter with particular gusto. 358 00:18:37,433 --> 00:18:40,933 In fact, all of Holy Week is a school vacation. 359 00:18:40,933 --> 00:18:43,800 Children like Evalina drop by their godparents 360 00:18:43,800 --> 00:18:48,333 for a little quality time, which today includes dying eggs. 361 00:18:49,200 --> 00:18:52,033 (pleasant music) 362 00:18:53,166 --> 00:18:55,533 Here in Greece, the color is always red 363 00:18:55,533 --> 00:18:58,000 to symbolize the blood of Christ. 364 00:18:58,000 --> 00:19:01,933 These will be great to share when Easter Sunday arrives. 365 00:19:01,933 --> 00:19:03,500 (godfather speaking Greek) 366 00:19:03,500 --> 00:19:05,966 Godparents also give a big chocolate egg 367 00:19:05,966 --> 00:19:08,633 and a special candle to their godchild to hold 368 00:19:08,633 --> 00:19:11,566 at the resurrection ceremony on Easter Sunday. 369 00:19:12,633 --> 00:19:15,233 (lips puckering) 370 00:19:15,233 --> 00:19:16,500 (birds chirping) (gentle music) 371 00:19:16,500 --> 00:19:21,366 As spring emerges, trees blossom, flowers bloom, 372 00:19:22,033 --> 00:19:23,433 and fields green up. 373 00:19:23,433 --> 00:19:26,566 We're reminded of the earth's newborn fertility. 374 00:19:26,566 --> 00:19:29,133 It's easy to understand how eggs, 375 00:19:29,133 --> 00:19:31,533 symbolic of new life, have become tied 376 00:19:31,533 --> 00:19:33,866 to the Easter theme of rebirth. 377 00:19:33,866 --> 00:19:35,200 (family speaking Greek) 378 00:19:35,200 --> 00:19:36,800 (water gushing) (gentle music) 379 00:19:36,800 --> 00:19:39,533 In beautiful Slovenia, in the remote region of Bela Krajina, 380 00:19:39,533 --> 00:19:42,333 where many of Slovenia's folktales were born, 381 00:19:42,333 --> 00:19:45,033 old customs have been kept alive in villages 382 00:19:45,033 --> 00:19:47,766 tucked among the hills and forests. 383 00:19:47,766 --> 00:19:51,466 The region's isolation has preserved these traditions which, 384 00:19:51,466 --> 00:19:53,866 over the centuries, have morphed from those 385 00:19:53,866 --> 00:19:57,733 prescribed by the seasons to those prescribed by the church. 386 00:19:57,733 --> 00:19:59,166 (gentle music) 387 00:19:59,166 --> 00:20:01,833 In Medieval times, to celebrate the arrival of spring 388 00:20:01,833 --> 00:20:03,533 after months of scarcity, 389 00:20:03,533 --> 00:20:06,000 decorated eggs were offered as gifts. 390 00:20:07,166 --> 00:20:09,433 Many families still dye their Easter eggs 391 00:20:09,433 --> 00:20:11,033 according to tradition. 392 00:20:11,033 --> 00:20:13,033 Spring leaves and flowers from the garden 393 00:20:13,033 --> 00:20:16,200 are pressed onto an egg, wrapped in gauze, 394 00:20:16,200 --> 00:20:18,800 and then boiled in onion skins. 395 00:20:20,166 --> 00:20:23,100 After the gauze is removed, the eggs are left to cool, 396 00:20:23,100 --> 00:20:27,233 now beautifully decorated with stamps of springtime. 397 00:20:27,233 --> 00:20:30,866 Today, Slovenian decorated eggs are a revered folk art 398 00:20:30,866 --> 00:20:33,166 and prized gifts at Easter. 399 00:20:33,166 --> 00:20:36,166 This woman is using a delicate technique of drawing 400 00:20:36,166 --> 00:20:39,933 on the shell with a tool loaded with hot bees wax. 401 00:20:39,933 --> 00:20:43,400 She then dies the egg with natural colors. 402 00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:47,533 Finally, eggs are rubbed in pig's vat to lend a nice sheen. 403 00:20:48,633 --> 00:20:50,733 While techniques vary, decorated eggs 404 00:20:50,733 --> 00:20:53,966 with designs inspired by nature add heritage 405 00:20:53,966 --> 00:20:57,600 and local pride to Easter celebrations. 406 00:20:57,600 --> 00:21:00,266 Slovenes today value this humble gift 407 00:21:00,266 --> 00:21:02,966 just as they did in medieval times. 408 00:21:04,600 --> 00:21:07,733 (ladies singing in foreign language) 409 00:21:07,733 --> 00:21:10,433 As their grandmothers did, these village women 410 00:21:10,433 --> 00:21:13,000 enjoy working together as they embroider cloths 411 00:21:13,000 --> 00:21:16,000 to cover the Easter baskets that'll hold their eggs 412 00:21:16,000 --> 00:21:18,466 and special foods for a blessing. 413 00:21:18,466 --> 00:21:22,933 (ladies singing in foreign language) 414 00:21:26,500 --> 00:21:29,233 The giving of eggs can come with a playful twist. 415 00:21:29,233 --> 00:21:30,166 (gentle music) 416 00:21:30,166 --> 00:21:31,800 In Italy, chocolate eggs contain 417 00:21:31,800 --> 00:21:33,800 hidden gifts for loved ones. 418 00:21:33,800 --> 00:21:36,700 Here in a backstreet of Rome, a fine chocolate shop 419 00:21:36,700 --> 00:21:39,600 embraces Easter with enthusiasm. 420 00:21:39,600 --> 00:21:41,666 And antonello is on a mission. 421 00:21:43,400 --> 00:21:45,233 With some help from behind the counter, 422 00:21:45,233 --> 00:21:47,166 he arranges to have a necklace planted 423 00:21:47,166 --> 00:21:48,900 inside a big chocolate egg. 424 00:21:51,800 --> 00:21:54,333 The plan, on Easter Sunday, 425 00:21:54,333 --> 00:21:56,366 his sweetheart will discover the gift 426 00:21:56,366 --> 00:21:58,900 as a reaffirmation of his love. 427 00:21:58,900 --> 00:22:02,366 (people speaking Italian) 428 00:22:04,266 --> 00:22:07,366 Back in Seville, we saw no chocolate Easter eggs, 429 00:22:07,366 --> 00:22:10,500 but there are still plenty of Semana Santa penitents 430 00:22:10,500 --> 00:22:13,166 and the week is in full swing. 431 00:22:13,166 --> 00:22:16,766 This shop's been selling penitent cones for 200 years, 432 00:22:16,766 --> 00:22:20,200 and is full of locals getting a last minute fitting. 433 00:22:20,200 --> 00:22:22,700 (pleasant music) 434 00:22:22,700 --> 00:22:26,600 Behind the busy shop, a woman stitches the cones by hand 435 00:22:26,600 --> 00:22:29,000 just as she's done for 40 years. 436 00:22:30,566 --> 00:22:33,533 Nearby, another shop makes the woven belts 437 00:22:33,533 --> 00:22:36,800 and necklace cords that penitents wear over their robes. 438 00:22:38,166 --> 00:22:42,000 The shop is so small, the spinning spills into the street. 439 00:22:45,300 --> 00:22:47,633 Bakeries are filled with holiday treats, 440 00:22:47,633 --> 00:22:50,700 like sweet cookies and spicy pastinos. 441 00:22:52,366 --> 00:22:55,333 Hungry patrons at this tapas bar enjoy meatless 442 00:22:55,333 --> 00:22:58,133 pre Easter plates of salt cod fritters. 443 00:22:59,633 --> 00:23:01,900 And the walls are completely covered with historic photos 444 00:23:01,900 --> 00:23:05,400 of Semana Santa, while a TV set shows coverage 445 00:23:05,400 --> 00:23:08,133 of the float procession rather than football. 446 00:23:09,400 --> 00:23:12,566 At home, children get ready with a dress rehearsal, 447 00:23:12,566 --> 00:23:13,900 practicing the big moment 448 00:23:13,900 --> 00:23:16,366 when they get to join a procession. 449 00:23:16,366 --> 00:23:18,333 (pleasant music) 450 00:23:18,333 --> 00:23:21,100 Juan and Eraina patiently review the plan 451 00:23:21,100 --> 00:23:23,366 and dress up as young penitents. 452 00:23:24,633 --> 00:23:28,133 As a reward, they help mama and papa make torrejas, 453 00:23:28,133 --> 00:23:30,233 another Semana Santa favorite. 454 00:23:30,233 --> 00:23:34,366 This one made with bread, honey, and cinnamon. 455 00:23:34,366 --> 00:23:37,166 (pleasant music) 456 00:23:42,666 --> 00:23:44,733 (birds chirping) (gentle music) 457 00:23:44,733 --> 00:23:47,400 Families wait in long lines at various churches 458 00:23:47,400 --> 00:23:49,833 for a chance to kiss the foot of Jesus, 459 00:23:51,833 --> 00:23:53,133 or the hand of Mary. 460 00:23:55,500 --> 00:23:59,600 This intimate moment is treasured by the people of Sevilla. 461 00:23:59,600 --> 00:24:02,266 It's only possible after a statue's brought down 462 00:24:02,266 --> 00:24:05,966 from the altar and before it's hoisted atop its float. 463 00:24:06,966 --> 00:24:09,033 The most revered of these encounters 464 00:24:09,033 --> 00:24:12,533 is with El Gran Poder, The Great Power. 465 00:24:12,533 --> 00:24:15,466 Here, Jesus exhausted from his humiliation 466 00:24:15,466 --> 00:24:17,666 and beating at the hands of his captors, 467 00:24:17,666 --> 00:24:19,900 prepares to take up the cross, 468 00:24:19,900 --> 00:24:23,700 an acknowledgement of the burdens we all must carry. 469 00:24:23,700 --> 00:24:27,700 Rituals like these make Jesus accessible to Sevillanos, 470 00:24:27,700 --> 00:24:30,233 who are visibly moved by the encounter. 471 00:24:31,566 --> 00:24:35,233 All across town, churches are enlivened with ritual. 472 00:24:35,233 --> 00:24:38,400 And various Marys play a prominent role. 473 00:24:38,400 --> 00:24:42,233 This Mary is called Solidad, or Solitude. 474 00:24:42,233 --> 00:24:46,133 She traditionally adorns the last float of Semana Santa, 475 00:24:46,133 --> 00:24:49,233 poignantly reminding people of her great loneliness 476 00:24:49,233 --> 00:24:51,133 after the death of her son. 477 00:24:51,133 --> 00:24:54,200 The Mary of Solitude is beloved by those who wait 478 00:24:54,200 --> 00:24:56,266 for this once a year opportunity, 479 00:24:56,266 --> 00:24:59,600 convinced she will empathize with their needs 480 00:24:59,600 --> 00:25:01,500 and hear their prayers. 481 00:25:03,333 --> 00:25:04,600 (cheerful music) 482 00:25:04,600 --> 00:25:06,233 Easter is a time of family and feasting. 483 00:25:06,233 --> 00:25:08,666 In every culture, special foods weave together 484 00:25:08,666 --> 00:25:10,766 religious and folk traditions. 485 00:25:10,766 --> 00:25:13,900 It's a time of music, blessings, and community 486 00:25:13,900 --> 00:25:16,733 as Holy Week builds to Easter Sunday. 487 00:25:16,733 --> 00:25:18,300 (upbeat music) 488 00:25:18,300 --> 00:25:21,033 Deep in Italy's Marche region, the mountains seem to cradle 489 00:25:21,033 --> 00:25:23,833 more time honored Easter rituals. 490 00:25:23,833 --> 00:25:27,000 (upbeat music) 491 00:25:27,000 --> 00:25:29,600 A folk band of troubadours goes farm to farm 492 00:25:29,600 --> 00:25:31,600 to help bless the coming harvest. 493 00:25:34,766 --> 00:25:37,100 They rouse the family with their music. 494 00:25:39,000 --> 00:25:41,200 (people speaking Italian) 495 00:25:41,200 --> 00:25:44,633 And then as is the tradition, they're invited to enjoy 496 00:25:44,633 --> 00:25:49,366 a rustic meal, farm made cheese, salami, and wine. 497 00:25:49,366 --> 00:25:53,033 (people speaking Italian) 498 00:25:53,033 --> 00:25:54,966 The holiday spirit in Italy can be found 499 00:25:54,966 --> 00:25:57,200 in larger cities too, like Siena. 500 00:25:58,100 --> 00:26:02,000 (children singing in Italian) 501 00:26:08,333 --> 00:26:11,033 Like anywhere, in Italy, Easter is a time 502 00:26:11,033 --> 00:26:12,933 when generations come together. 503 00:26:12,933 --> 00:26:16,233 Preschoolers bring some Easter joy to this retirement home 504 00:26:16,233 --> 00:26:18,000 with skits and songs. 505 00:26:19,833 --> 00:26:21,066 (crowd applauding) 506 00:26:21,066 --> 00:26:22,433 The touching scene takes these seniors 507 00:26:22,433 --> 00:26:24,566 back to their distant childhood, 508 00:26:24,566 --> 00:26:26,700 and they respond with gifts. 509 00:26:28,266 --> 00:26:30,933 (gentle music) 510 00:26:33,233 --> 00:26:36,433 Back in the Tuscan countryside, locals bring baskets of eggs 511 00:26:36,433 --> 00:26:39,266 to their tiny church to be blessed by their priest. 512 00:26:39,266 --> 00:26:40,533 These will be enjoyed 513 00:26:40,533 --> 00:26:42,633 by young and old alike on Easter Sunday. 514 00:26:45,200 --> 00:26:47,466 In Slovenia, Lake Bled is nestled 515 00:26:47,466 --> 00:26:49,566 at the foot of the Julian Alps. 516 00:26:49,566 --> 00:26:52,133 This spectacular and romantic location 517 00:26:52,133 --> 00:26:54,133 is famous as a summer resort, 518 00:26:54,133 --> 00:26:57,066 although in the springtime it can be chilly. 519 00:26:57,066 --> 00:26:58,900 But the weather doesn't stop townsfolk 520 00:26:58,900 --> 00:27:01,466 from making the short trip on Pletna boat 521 00:27:01,466 --> 00:27:03,466 to the lake's island. 522 00:27:03,466 --> 00:27:05,900 Next to the island's church is a bakery, 523 00:27:05,900 --> 00:27:09,766 famous for Slovenia's Easter bread called potica. 524 00:27:09,766 --> 00:27:12,533 This holiday treat much loved by Slovenes 525 00:27:12,533 --> 00:27:14,600 represents Jesus' crown of thorns, 526 00:27:14,600 --> 00:27:17,133 and is eaten for Easter brunch. 527 00:27:17,133 --> 00:27:20,366 Potica is a log of sweet bread filled with a paste 528 00:27:20,366 --> 00:27:24,033 of walnuts and honey, chopped almonds, and fruit. 529 00:27:24,033 --> 00:27:26,300 It's placed in a ceramic bunt pan. 530 00:27:27,400 --> 00:27:29,333 And after baking, it's flipped 531 00:27:29,333 --> 00:27:31,533 to reveal the finished potica. 532 00:27:33,966 --> 00:27:36,800 This busy baker will make a couple dozen of these today 533 00:27:36,800 --> 00:27:39,233 in anticipation of the coming feast. 534 00:27:40,600 --> 00:27:42,633 Back in Slovenia's Bela Krajina, 535 00:27:42,633 --> 00:27:45,100 a self-sufficient old farmer wears the region's 536 00:27:45,100 --> 00:27:48,166 traditional white linen, which he wove himself. 537 00:27:48,166 --> 00:27:51,600 He packs up his Easter feast for a blessing. 538 00:27:51,600 --> 00:27:54,300 Smoked pork representing Christ's body, 539 00:27:54,300 --> 00:27:57,266 horse radish root for the nails on the cross, 540 00:27:57,266 --> 00:27:59,500 potica for the crown of thorns. 541 00:27:59,500 --> 00:28:03,400 And hard-boiled eggs died red for the blood Christ shed. 542 00:28:03,400 --> 00:28:05,200 It's all packed into a basket 543 00:28:05,200 --> 00:28:08,200 and covered with the embroidered cloth. 544 00:28:08,200 --> 00:28:10,900 For centuries, it's been a tradition for Slovenes 545 00:28:10,900 --> 00:28:13,500 to gather during Holy Week to have these baskets 546 00:28:13,500 --> 00:28:16,600 of symbolic Easter foods blessed by their priest. 547 00:28:18,900 --> 00:28:21,233 Some go by boat to the island church. 548 00:28:22,500 --> 00:28:25,100 Some gather at humble roadside chapels. 549 00:28:26,066 --> 00:28:28,700 (priest speaking foreign language) 550 00:28:28,700 --> 00:28:32,466 And others bring their baskets to timeless village churches. 551 00:28:32,466 --> 00:28:35,100 (gentle music) 552 00:28:41,433 --> 00:28:42,966 On Thursday of Holy Week, 553 00:28:42,966 --> 00:28:45,400 the events of the Passion accelerate. 554 00:28:45,400 --> 00:28:48,433 Jesus, whose ministry lasted just three years, 555 00:28:48,433 --> 00:28:53,500 knows his destiny, betrayal followed by execution. 556 00:28:54,066 --> 00:28:55,233 (gentle music) 557 00:28:55,233 --> 00:28:56,733 Back in Italy's remote Marche region, 558 00:28:56,733 --> 00:28:58,800 in the stony village of Cantiano, 559 00:28:58,800 --> 00:29:01,933 Jesus' destiny is brought to life for all to see. 560 00:29:03,066 --> 00:29:05,533 In the evening, the entire town participates 561 00:29:05,533 --> 00:29:08,433 in a dramatic reenactment of the Easter story, 562 00:29:08,433 --> 00:29:11,133 retelling it as they have for centuries. 563 00:29:12,733 --> 00:29:15,533 Townspeople consider it an honor to play a part 564 00:29:15,533 --> 00:29:17,500 in this epic biblical story. 565 00:29:17,500 --> 00:29:19,933 (actors speaking Italian) 566 00:29:19,933 --> 00:29:23,200 On this night, Jesus gathers his 12 apostles 567 00:29:23,200 --> 00:29:24,700 for their last supper. 568 00:29:26,466 --> 00:29:27,866 (actor speaking Italian) (gentle music) 569 00:29:27,866 --> 00:29:30,933 Villagers and visitors alike are transfixed 570 00:29:30,933 --> 00:29:34,266 as he tells his disciples, "One of you will betray me." 571 00:29:34,266 --> 00:29:36,866 And they respond, Lord, "Is it I?" 572 00:29:36,866 --> 00:29:39,533 (gentle music) 573 00:29:40,533 --> 00:29:42,766 With Good Friday only hours away, 574 00:29:42,766 --> 00:29:45,100 Cantiano's church is dressed in mourning. 575 00:29:46,533 --> 00:29:48,533 Crosses and artwork are covered, 576 00:29:48,533 --> 00:29:51,033 draped in purple, representing the passion. 577 00:29:51,866 --> 00:29:53,166 (bells jingling) 578 00:29:53,166 --> 00:29:55,066 Holy Thursday is one of the most sacred masses 579 00:29:55,066 --> 00:29:56,266 in the Catholic calendar, 580 00:29:56,266 --> 00:29:59,000 full of ancient ritual and mysticism. 581 00:30:01,066 --> 00:30:04,033 This day is also known as Maundy Thursday. 582 00:30:04,033 --> 00:30:08,300 Maundy means mandate, and refers to Jesus' new commandment. 583 00:30:08,300 --> 00:30:11,566 On this day, according to the Bible, he told his apostles, 584 00:30:11,566 --> 00:30:14,866 "Love one another as I have loved you." 585 00:30:14,866 --> 00:30:17,500 (priest speaking Italian) 586 00:30:17,500 --> 00:30:20,200 Jesus demonstrated this commandment at the last supper 587 00:30:20,200 --> 00:30:22,666 when he washed the feet of his disciples. 588 00:30:23,900 --> 00:30:26,433 When a priest washes the feet of his parishioners, 589 00:30:26,433 --> 00:30:29,233 he's reminding them of this mandate. 590 00:30:29,233 --> 00:30:30,700 Doing this humble job, 591 00:30:30,700 --> 00:30:33,300 customarily given to the lowliest servant, 592 00:30:33,300 --> 00:30:35,766 illustrates the depth of Jesus' love 593 00:30:35,766 --> 00:30:39,000 and the love he called others to show each other. 594 00:30:42,266 --> 00:30:46,666 (actor speaking Italian) (gentle music) 595 00:30:46,666 --> 00:30:49,700 This gesture is followed by the Eucharist. 596 00:30:49,700 --> 00:30:51,366 Also called Holy Communion, 597 00:30:51,366 --> 00:30:54,066 it symbolically reenacts that last supper 598 00:30:54,066 --> 00:30:58,300 and is a reminder of the great sacrifice of the crucifixion. 599 00:30:58,300 --> 00:31:00,700 The bread and the wine are taken together by Christians 600 00:31:00,700 --> 00:31:03,166 to remember the body and blood Christ gave 601 00:31:03,166 --> 00:31:07,166 so they could be forgiven and saved in the eyes of God. 602 00:31:07,166 --> 00:31:11,166 For Christians, this is the essence of the Easter story. 603 00:31:13,333 --> 00:31:14,866 (gentle music) 604 00:31:14,866 --> 00:31:17,333 Back in Spain in Sevilla, various religious fraternities 605 00:31:17,333 --> 00:31:19,866 parade on different days during Holy Week, 606 00:31:19,866 --> 00:31:23,033 so preparations continue all week long. 607 00:31:23,033 --> 00:31:26,066 This fraternity is putting finishing touches on its float 608 00:31:26,066 --> 00:31:27,533 before it hits the street. 609 00:31:28,533 --> 00:31:30,533 Men, women, and even young children 610 00:31:30,533 --> 00:31:33,833 are all members of neighborhood fraternities. 611 00:31:33,833 --> 00:31:36,233 For centuries, these groups were mission-based. 612 00:31:36,233 --> 00:31:39,533 And today all are still involved in social causes, 613 00:31:39,533 --> 00:31:41,433 such as helping the poor. 614 00:31:41,433 --> 00:31:43,833 Excitement fills the air and so does laughter 615 00:31:43,833 --> 00:31:46,666 as flowers are prepped and arranged. 616 00:31:46,666 --> 00:31:49,366 (gentle music) 617 00:31:49,366 --> 00:31:51,733 Candles are set out for the penitents, 618 00:31:53,000 --> 00:31:55,033 and petals are plucked for showering upon Mary 619 00:31:55,033 --> 00:31:58,300 when she takes her turn parading through the city. 620 00:31:58,300 --> 00:32:01,633 This is tender work and great care is taken to make sure 621 00:32:01,633 --> 00:32:05,200 that the floats are perfect in every way. 622 00:32:05,200 --> 00:32:07,900 Floats with Mary are often the most anticipated 623 00:32:07,900 --> 00:32:11,466 during Semana Santa, as she is beloved for the suffering 624 00:32:11,466 --> 00:32:15,000 she endures and her empathy with the people. 625 00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:17,300 This Mary is known as Estrella, 626 00:32:17,300 --> 00:32:19,200 and inside her namesake star, 627 00:32:19,200 --> 00:32:21,733 she carries a relic of the cross. 628 00:32:21,733 --> 00:32:24,133 She'll have her moment later this evening. 629 00:32:25,033 --> 00:32:27,566 (upbeat music) 630 00:32:27,566 --> 00:32:29,133 Out on the crowded streets, 631 00:32:29,133 --> 00:32:32,133 floats slowly make their way to the cathedral. 632 00:32:32,133 --> 00:32:35,866 (singer singing in Spanish) 633 00:32:38,533 --> 00:32:42,200 Centuries of flamenco singers have serenaded Mary and Jesus 634 00:32:42,200 --> 00:32:44,966 with love songs as they process through the city. 635 00:32:47,966 --> 00:32:51,600 Traditionally spontaneous, these passionate songs occur 636 00:32:51,600 --> 00:32:54,566 when a singer is so overcome with emotion, 637 00:32:54,566 --> 00:32:56,466 he must break into song. 638 00:32:56,466 --> 00:33:00,166 (singer singing in Spanish) 639 00:33:09,966 --> 00:33:12,933 (crowd applauding) 640 00:33:16,400 --> 00:33:18,933 (gentle music) 641 00:33:18,933 --> 00:33:22,633 As dusk settles on Sevilla, a long line of silent 642 00:33:22,633 --> 00:33:25,166 black clad penitents escort one of the city's 643 00:33:25,166 --> 00:33:27,666 most moving floats toward the cathedral. 644 00:33:27,666 --> 00:33:31,433 The float portrays the dead Jesus taken down from the cross 645 00:33:31,433 --> 00:33:34,500 and mourned by the people who loved him most. 646 00:33:34,500 --> 00:33:37,166 Among the most dramatic of the week's processions, 647 00:33:37,166 --> 00:33:40,633 the float is decorated simply with purple iris 648 00:33:40,633 --> 00:33:44,733 and a single red rose, symbolizing the blood Jesus shed. 649 00:33:44,733 --> 00:33:47,366 (gentle music) 650 00:33:52,000 --> 00:33:55,200 As night closes in, penitents candles sway 651 00:33:55,200 --> 00:33:57,966 like fireflies dancing in the dark. 652 00:33:57,966 --> 00:34:01,333 The entire Holy Week in Spain is a glorious spectacle. 653 00:34:02,533 --> 00:34:05,266 After a full day, it's hard to imagine more. 654 00:34:05,266 --> 00:34:08,800 And then the Mary known as Estrella appears, 655 00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:11,333 ethereal and radiant. 656 00:34:11,333 --> 00:34:14,200 A shower of petals rains down upon her, 657 00:34:14,200 --> 00:34:16,266 as if heaven itself is thanking her 658 00:34:16,266 --> 00:34:19,500 for her immense and loving sacrifice. 659 00:34:19,500 --> 00:34:22,133 (gentle music) 660 00:34:32,300 --> 00:34:35,033 On Good Friday, the day Jesus was crucified, 661 00:34:35,033 --> 00:34:37,533 in churches and communities throughout Europe, 662 00:34:37,533 --> 00:34:40,066 the rituals of Easter intensify 663 00:34:40,066 --> 00:34:43,833 with more processions, plays, and holy masses. 664 00:34:43,833 --> 00:34:45,200 (instruments jingling) 665 00:34:45,200 --> 00:34:48,833 Back in Italy in Cantiano, the predawn streets stir 666 00:34:48,833 --> 00:34:50,633 with groups of young men. 667 00:34:50,633 --> 00:34:53,600 Their purpose, to awaken the town. 668 00:34:53,600 --> 00:34:56,300 According to tradition, no church bells ring 669 00:34:56,300 --> 00:34:57,966 on this sad day. 670 00:34:57,966 --> 00:35:00,366 That's why it's these crude noisemakers 671 00:35:00,366 --> 00:35:03,033 that announce the Good Friday message, 672 00:35:03,033 --> 00:35:06,433 Jesus is dead and it's time to gather at church. 673 00:35:06,433 --> 00:35:07,866 (gentle music) 674 00:35:07,866 --> 00:35:10,533 In the dark and gloomy main church, the community, 675 00:35:10,533 --> 00:35:12,700 many people just moments out of bed, 676 00:35:12,700 --> 00:35:15,533 gathers dressed for the mountain chill. 677 00:35:15,533 --> 00:35:18,866 The mood is somber as the priest leads prayers. 678 00:35:20,300 --> 00:35:23,333 The ritual procession of the seven churches begins. 679 00:35:25,433 --> 00:35:27,533 The priest leads his congregation 680 00:35:27,533 --> 00:35:30,066 to the next church for more prayers. 681 00:35:31,300 --> 00:35:33,666 From there, with the priest continually praying 682 00:35:33,666 --> 00:35:37,400 and reciting psalms, the procession continues. 683 00:35:37,400 --> 00:35:41,233 (priest speaking in Italian) 684 00:35:45,266 --> 00:35:48,233 Eventually the entire gathering reaches the cemetery, 685 00:35:48,233 --> 00:35:49,966 where hundreds of candles illuminate 686 00:35:49,966 --> 00:35:52,600 both graves and burial niches. 687 00:35:52,600 --> 00:35:55,033 The living remember their departed loved ones 688 00:35:55,033 --> 00:35:57,233 in this time of communal morning. 689 00:35:57,233 --> 00:35:59,966 (gentle music) 690 00:36:06,800 --> 00:36:08,400 In many Christian traditions, 691 00:36:08,400 --> 00:36:10,500 during Good Friday the bells are still 692 00:36:10,500 --> 00:36:13,433 and the services are stark without music. 693 00:36:13,433 --> 00:36:16,600 People leave in silence, it's a time of mourning. 694 00:36:17,700 --> 00:36:22,066 (monks chanting in Italian) 695 00:36:22,066 --> 00:36:25,733 In monasteries like Monte Oliveto Maggiore, 696 00:36:25,733 --> 00:36:28,466 monks chant to sanctify the day. 697 00:36:28,466 --> 00:36:31,833 The music and rituals of Good Friday are less joyous 698 00:36:31,833 --> 00:36:35,433 as the focus is on Jesus' suffering and death. 699 00:36:35,433 --> 00:36:39,166 (monks chanting in Italian) 700 00:36:49,133 --> 00:36:51,466 Nearby in the hill town of Gubbio, 701 00:36:51,466 --> 00:36:53,866 hooded penitents like those in Sevilla 702 00:36:53,866 --> 00:36:56,566 take the sadness of the day into the streets. 703 00:36:57,800 --> 00:37:00,100 As they leave the church and process through town, 704 00:37:00,100 --> 00:37:01,833 they sing the Miserere, 705 00:37:01,833 --> 00:37:05,266 a lament expressing the pain of the crucifixion. 706 00:37:05,266 --> 00:37:07,366 The holy statues are carried high, 707 00:37:07,366 --> 00:37:10,566 as if floating above legions of mourners. 708 00:37:10,566 --> 00:37:12,233 (penitents singing in Spanish) 709 00:37:12,233 --> 00:37:14,733 Penitents carry plaques showing icons 710 00:37:14,733 --> 00:37:16,200 and tools of the Passion. 711 00:37:17,533 --> 00:37:20,866 And common citizens, both adults and children, 712 00:37:20,866 --> 00:37:22,133 are part of the procession. 713 00:37:22,133 --> 00:37:24,666 Showing that this ritual, centuries old, 714 00:37:24,666 --> 00:37:28,666 continues to be passed on from generation to generation. 715 00:37:28,666 --> 00:37:31,800 Processions like these with their heartfelt songs 716 00:37:31,800 --> 00:37:35,166 seem to flood every corner with great emotion. 717 00:37:36,766 --> 00:37:40,866 And throughout Europe, Passion plays stir the same emotions. 718 00:37:40,866 --> 00:37:43,733 In Slovenia, the Medieval town of Skofja Loka 719 00:37:43,733 --> 00:37:46,000 is famed for its Easter play. 720 00:37:46,000 --> 00:37:47,266 (upbeat music) 721 00:37:47,266 --> 00:37:50,033 This version was written by a local monk in 1721, 722 00:37:50,033 --> 00:37:52,233 and has been performed ever since. 723 00:37:53,400 --> 00:37:56,300 With a cast of 1,000 locals and 70 horses, 724 00:37:56,300 --> 00:37:59,766 the play is staged in various squares all across the town, 725 00:37:59,766 --> 00:38:01,866 with the action coming from all sides 726 00:38:01,866 --> 00:38:04,333 and captivating the audience. 727 00:38:04,333 --> 00:38:07,233 It's a departure from the standard version of the Passion, 728 00:38:07,233 --> 00:38:10,800 a morality play that feels both medieval and modern. 729 00:38:12,733 --> 00:38:15,600 One message suggests that we're all equal, 730 00:38:15,600 --> 00:38:18,100 whether king or cobbler. 731 00:38:18,100 --> 00:38:21,533 (upbeat music) 732 00:38:21,533 --> 00:38:25,066 Then when a tormented soul is ravaged by devils, 733 00:38:25,066 --> 00:38:29,033 we ask ourself, how will I choose to live my own life? 734 00:38:29,033 --> 00:38:32,166 (actor screaming) 735 00:38:32,166 --> 00:38:34,966 (actor speaking in foreign language) 736 00:38:34,966 --> 00:38:37,733 But the most dramatic moments come when things return 737 00:38:37,733 --> 00:38:39,300 to the traditional narrative, 738 00:38:39,300 --> 00:38:43,500 and all eyes are on a suffering and dying Jesus. 739 00:38:43,500 --> 00:38:47,033 Passion plays make the torturing of Jesus visceral. 740 00:38:47,033 --> 00:38:50,666 As told so vividly in the Bible, Jesus suffered greatly 741 00:38:50,666 --> 00:38:53,633 even before being nailed to the cross, 742 00:38:53,633 --> 00:38:56,500 stripped, humiliated, and whipped. 743 00:38:58,233 --> 00:39:01,966 Here he hangs bloody and nearly naked in the bitter cold. 744 00:39:04,333 --> 00:39:06,933 Back in Italy, at Cantiano's Passion play, 745 00:39:06,933 --> 00:39:09,000 the main square becomes a stage. 746 00:39:09,000 --> 00:39:10,433 (upbeat music) 747 00:39:10,433 --> 00:39:12,533 Under a full moon in the crisp air, the entire village 748 00:39:12,533 --> 00:39:15,800 packs the square to witness this timeless reenactment. 749 00:39:16,800 --> 00:39:19,066 Villagers take their roles seriously 750 00:39:19,066 --> 00:39:21,733 and perform the Passion with passion. 751 00:39:21,733 --> 00:39:25,066 For the faithful here, it's an honor to participate, 752 00:39:25,066 --> 00:39:27,366 a sign of devotion and respect. 753 00:39:27,366 --> 00:39:30,466 Some of these people play the same role for decades. 754 00:39:30,466 --> 00:39:33,533 (gentle music) 755 00:39:33,533 --> 00:39:35,500 The entire town becomes a set 756 00:39:35,500 --> 00:39:38,433 as Jesus is led to his crucifixion. 757 00:39:38,433 --> 00:39:41,033 (upbeat music) 758 00:39:41,033 --> 00:39:43,600 For the finale of Cantiano's Passion play, 759 00:39:43,600 --> 00:39:46,533 the entire cast trudges to the top of the hill. 760 00:39:47,700 --> 00:39:50,133 With Jesus in the lead carrying the cross, 761 00:39:50,133 --> 00:39:53,366 it's an unforgettable and powerful experience. 762 00:39:55,566 --> 00:39:58,466 Then far below, the village gathers for the dramatic 763 00:39:58,466 --> 00:40:01,533 last scene, the resurrection of Christ, 764 00:40:01,533 --> 00:40:06,000 represented by a shroud blowing from a radiant empty cross. 765 00:40:06,000 --> 00:40:08,633 (gentle music) 766 00:40:12,000 --> 00:40:15,500 (pleasant music) 767 00:40:15,500 --> 00:40:18,033 In Greece in the city of Nafplio, 768 00:40:18,033 --> 00:40:19,700 the warmth of spring is in the air 769 00:40:19,700 --> 00:40:22,166 and crowds of people are out enjoying the weather 770 00:40:22,166 --> 00:40:24,600 and preparing for the big Easter holiday. 771 00:40:26,733 --> 00:40:30,566 Here, Easter is celebrated with a distinct style. 772 00:40:30,566 --> 00:40:32,300 For Greek Orthodox Christians, 773 00:40:32,300 --> 00:40:34,800 it's the most celebrated holiday of the year. 774 00:40:36,366 --> 00:40:38,800 Because Eastern Orthodox Christians use a different calendar 775 00:40:38,800 --> 00:40:42,300 than Western Christians, Orthodox Easter usually falls 776 00:40:42,300 --> 00:40:43,500 on a different Sunday. 777 00:40:45,000 --> 00:40:48,266 The Greek orthodox ritual may feel exotic and mystical 778 00:40:48,266 --> 00:40:52,233 to many Western eyes and ears, but the storyline is the same 779 00:40:52,233 --> 00:40:54,466 with a few mesmerizing twists. 780 00:40:55,933 --> 00:40:58,500 While worshiping, Orthodox Christians believe standing 781 00:40:58,500 --> 00:41:02,900 empowers prayers and incense helps involve all the senses. 782 00:41:04,300 --> 00:41:07,066 The priest typically has a long beard, 783 00:41:07,066 --> 00:41:10,733 a sign of wisdom, experience, and respect. 784 00:41:10,733 --> 00:41:13,800 He periodically retreats behind an icon covered wall, 785 00:41:13,800 --> 00:41:16,133 called an iconostasis. 786 00:41:16,133 --> 00:41:18,066 Then to involve all gathered, 787 00:41:18,066 --> 00:41:20,500 he circulates among the faithful. 788 00:41:20,500 --> 00:41:23,233 (people singing in Greek) 789 00:41:23,233 --> 00:41:25,200 In the Greek Orthodox tradition, 790 00:41:25,200 --> 00:41:28,033 the events of Good Friday start the night before. 791 00:41:29,500 --> 00:41:33,333 For hours people gather, eventually packing the church. 792 00:41:33,333 --> 00:41:35,433 (people singing in Greek) 793 00:41:35,433 --> 00:41:39,666 As candles flicker, all generations chant and pray together, 794 00:41:39,666 --> 00:41:43,833 awaiting each step of the Easter story as it unfolds. 795 00:41:44,900 --> 00:41:47,133 The cantors blend music and prayer 796 00:41:47,133 --> 00:41:49,700 to heighten the atmosphere of reverence. 797 00:41:49,700 --> 00:41:53,900 (people singing in Greek) 798 00:41:53,900 --> 00:41:56,433 Eventually, the priest brings the crucified Christ 799 00:41:56,433 --> 00:41:59,300 out from behind the iconostasis. 800 00:41:59,300 --> 00:42:02,766 (people singing in Greek) 801 00:42:06,500 --> 00:42:08,433 After being carried around the church, 802 00:42:08,433 --> 00:42:10,966 Jesus is lovingly decked in flowers. 803 00:42:14,200 --> 00:42:16,733 The passionate congregation then crowds around 804 00:42:16,733 --> 00:42:18,733 to kiss the feet of Jesus. 805 00:42:20,666 --> 00:42:22,133 (people singing in Greek) 806 00:42:22,133 --> 00:42:25,133 The ritual of morning continues through the night. 807 00:42:26,433 --> 00:42:29,200 Around midnight as Good Friday arrives, 808 00:42:29,200 --> 00:42:31,366 women decorate what's called the epitaph 809 00:42:31,366 --> 00:42:35,333 or symbolic tomb of Jesus while the choir chants. 810 00:42:35,333 --> 00:42:37,766 Well into the wee hours, it's a family affair 811 00:42:37,766 --> 00:42:41,033 filled with tenderness as flowers create a fragile 812 00:42:41,033 --> 00:42:43,866 and beautiful monument to their loss and love. 813 00:42:44,833 --> 00:42:48,400 (people singing in Greek) 814 00:43:02,033 --> 00:43:05,600 (person singing in Greek) 815 00:43:08,033 --> 00:43:10,666 After dawn, a good Friday service is held. 816 00:43:12,466 --> 00:43:14,466 Christ is removed from the cross. 817 00:43:18,033 --> 00:43:21,333 His body is then carried behind the iconostasis. 818 00:43:23,000 --> 00:43:25,800 Eventually, the priest reemerges carrying a shroud 819 00:43:25,800 --> 00:43:28,633 representing the crucified Christ. 820 00:43:28,633 --> 00:43:31,833 He reverently leads it through the congregation of mourners. 821 00:43:33,700 --> 00:43:36,100 Eventually, the shroud is laid out flat 822 00:43:36,100 --> 00:43:39,666 in the ceremonial coffin and blessed with flower petals. 823 00:43:41,366 --> 00:43:45,233 As in any funeral, loved ones pay their last respects. 824 00:43:45,233 --> 00:43:48,266 Here either with a kiss or, if you're small enough, 825 00:43:48,266 --> 00:43:50,066 a trip beneath the epitaph. 826 00:43:51,033 --> 00:43:53,633 Once again, the Orthodox mysticism 827 00:43:53,633 --> 00:43:56,833 enhanced by music, incense, 828 00:43:56,833 --> 00:43:59,133 (chalice jingling) 829 00:43:59,133 --> 00:44:03,200 and intensely felt prayer heightens the emotional impact. 830 00:44:03,966 --> 00:44:06,233 (bell tolling) 831 00:44:06,233 --> 00:44:09,433 On Good Friday evening, the funeral procession starts 832 00:44:09,433 --> 00:44:12,200 as the epitaph is carried out of the church. 833 00:44:12,200 --> 00:44:13,866 (gentle music) 834 00:44:13,866 --> 00:44:17,600 Even as a visitor, I felt as one with those gathered, 835 00:44:17,600 --> 00:44:20,666 sharing a familiar holiday, but in a new way. 836 00:44:22,066 --> 00:44:24,433 Churches from three neighborhoods all perform 837 00:44:24,433 --> 00:44:26,400 the same ritual funeral procession 838 00:44:26,400 --> 00:44:29,466 as they carry their individual epitaphs through town. 839 00:44:31,233 --> 00:44:34,000 The three parades converge on the main square, 840 00:44:34,000 --> 00:44:36,166 and the epitaphs gather on a stage 841 00:44:36,166 --> 00:44:38,566 with the bishop overlooking what seems like 842 00:44:38,566 --> 00:44:41,200 the entire population of Nafplio. 843 00:44:42,366 --> 00:44:44,333 The bishop, flanked by the town's priests, 844 00:44:44,333 --> 00:44:48,300 gives an Easter message reminding his flock why Jesus died 845 00:44:48,300 --> 00:44:50,266 and why there's reason for hope. 846 00:44:51,200 --> 00:44:54,833 (bishop speaking in Greek) 847 00:44:58,733 --> 00:45:01,733 Holy Saturday is the day Christ's body laid in the tomb 848 00:45:01,733 --> 00:45:03,500 while his followers mourned. 849 00:45:03,500 --> 00:45:05,600 In Western Christian traditions, 850 00:45:05,600 --> 00:45:09,066 it's a time of thoughtfulness and waiting, of vigils. 851 00:45:09,066 --> 00:45:12,466 But in the Orthodox Christian world, like here in Greece, 852 00:45:12,466 --> 00:45:14,500 Holy Saturday is a celebration 853 00:45:14,500 --> 00:45:17,833 of what Jesus' soul accomplished on that day. 854 00:45:17,833 --> 00:45:19,800 (people singing in Greek) 855 00:45:19,800 --> 00:45:22,833 On Saturday morning, the Greeks pack their church yet again 856 00:45:22,833 --> 00:45:26,266 to remember how, while his disciples were mourning on earth, 857 00:45:26,266 --> 00:45:28,433 Jesus descended into Hades, 858 00:45:28,433 --> 00:45:31,633 bringing salvation to the souls of the dead. 859 00:45:31,633 --> 00:45:35,100 That's why Greeks call this Saturday the first resurrection. 860 00:45:36,433 --> 00:45:38,766 Worshipers venerate an icon of Jesus 861 00:45:38,766 --> 00:45:41,933 pulling Adam and Eve out of the fires of hell. 862 00:45:41,933 --> 00:45:44,900 This is the pivotal moment when Christ has defeated 863 00:45:44,900 --> 00:45:47,266 the devil and death. 864 00:45:47,266 --> 00:45:50,433 The priest has changed out of his mournful black vestments 865 00:45:50,433 --> 00:45:52,466 and into hopeful white ones. 866 00:45:52,466 --> 00:45:54,833 Much happier and more animated now, 867 00:45:54,833 --> 00:45:58,266 he tosses dried flower petals representing the broken chains 868 00:45:58,266 --> 00:46:00,633 of hell over all gathered. 869 00:46:03,766 --> 00:46:06,533 Late Saturday night, the people spill from their churches 870 00:46:06,533 --> 00:46:09,066 and fill the main square yet again. 871 00:46:09,066 --> 00:46:12,633 This time, with a palpable sense of expectation. 872 00:46:12,633 --> 00:46:16,500 (crowd indistinctly chatting) 873 00:46:16,500 --> 00:46:18,266 It's almost midnight and Easter Sunday 874 00:46:18,266 --> 00:46:20,200 is just a couple minutes away. 875 00:46:20,200 --> 00:46:21,866 Here in Greece, people can hardly wait 876 00:46:21,866 --> 00:46:23,566 to celebrate the resurrection. 877 00:46:23,566 --> 00:46:26,133 On this day, Christians everywhere fill the churches 878 00:46:26,133 --> 00:46:28,700 and the squares and they declare with great joy, 879 00:46:28,700 --> 00:46:31,800 "Christ is risen, he has risen indeed." 880 00:46:31,800 --> 00:46:33,200 (fireworks popping) 881 00:46:33,200 --> 00:46:35,566 When midnight strikes, fireworks light up the sky 882 00:46:35,566 --> 00:46:38,433 and finally Easter Sunday is here. 883 00:46:38,433 --> 00:46:42,733 (fireworks screeching and popping) 884 00:46:44,533 --> 00:46:47,866 The Holy Flame, which literally travels from Jerusalem 885 00:46:47,866 --> 00:46:50,700 to Athens and then to towns throughout Greece, 886 00:46:50,700 --> 00:46:54,233 is shared along with the ritual Easter kiss of love. 887 00:46:54,233 --> 00:46:56,033 (pleasant music) 888 00:46:56,033 --> 00:46:59,466 And it's not over yet, everyone then heads home 889 00:46:59,466 --> 00:47:01,900 for the biggest party of the season. 890 00:47:01,900 --> 00:47:05,266 People carry the Easter flame home as a burning candle. 891 00:47:05,266 --> 00:47:06,633 Raising it above their heads, 892 00:47:06,633 --> 00:47:08,366 they make a cross above the doorway, 893 00:47:08,366 --> 00:47:10,733 symbolizing that the light of the resurrection 894 00:47:10,733 --> 00:47:13,033 has blessed their home for another year. 895 00:47:14,433 --> 00:47:18,466 A long table awaits as the extended family gathers. 896 00:47:18,466 --> 00:47:21,200 They have a competition to find out whose Easter egg 897 00:47:21,200 --> 00:47:22,566 will be the strongest. 898 00:47:24,500 --> 00:47:26,633 Sighs of disappointment from losers 899 00:47:26,633 --> 00:47:28,400 are mixed with the laughter of winners 900 00:47:28,400 --> 00:47:30,500 until the proud victor, who will enjoy 901 00:47:30,500 --> 00:47:34,666 a particularly blessed upcoming year, is declared. 902 00:47:34,666 --> 00:47:37,133 Traditional holiday dishes, like a thick 903 00:47:37,133 --> 00:47:39,700 lamb enteral soup, are devoured. 904 00:47:41,000 --> 00:47:43,133 It's a joyous family gathering. 905 00:47:43,133 --> 00:47:44,666 (glasses clanking) (pleasant music) 906 00:47:44,666 --> 00:47:47,200 The feast continues into the wee hours of Easter Sunday, 907 00:47:47,200 --> 00:47:51,166 with lots of meat and eggs and no shortage of Easter bread. 908 00:47:51,166 --> 00:47:54,000 (pleasant music) 909 00:47:54,966 --> 00:47:57,700 (bells tolling) 910 00:47:58,900 --> 00:48:00,966 It's a new day filled with promise, 911 00:48:00,966 --> 00:48:03,566 both spiritually and metaphorically. 912 00:48:03,566 --> 00:48:06,133 Flowers trumpet the full bloom of spring, 913 00:48:06,133 --> 00:48:09,633 and the earth reawakens from its winter slumber. 914 00:48:09,633 --> 00:48:13,433 Back in Spain, the sun rises above a serene Sevilla. 915 00:48:13,433 --> 00:48:15,700 It's peaceful after so many parades 916 00:48:15,700 --> 00:48:18,533 and ritual filled days of Semana Santa. 917 00:48:18,533 --> 00:48:21,666 Now, families simply enjoy time together. 918 00:48:21,666 --> 00:48:23,033 (pleasant music) 919 00:48:23,033 --> 00:48:25,666 In contrast, back in Italy, in Florence, 920 00:48:25,666 --> 00:48:27,566 the pageantry is yet to peak. 921 00:48:30,466 --> 00:48:33,133 Easter Sunday starts with a grand parade. 922 00:48:35,633 --> 00:48:38,833 A lumbering decorated wagon is dragged by white oxen 923 00:48:38,833 --> 00:48:42,233 through town, as it has been since medieval times. 924 00:48:43,466 --> 00:48:46,200 The procession ends at the steps of the cathedral, 925 00:48:46,200 --> 00:48:49,066 where a crowd is gathered filled with anticipation. 926 00:48:51,733 --> 00:48:54,366 At the end of the mass, a mechanical dove 927 00:48:54,366 --> 00:48:57,500 representing the Holy Spirit rockets from the high altar 928 00:48:57,500 --> 00:49:01,433 directly into the cart igniting fireworks. 929 00:49:01,433 --> 00:49:04,800 It's a spectacular way to announce the resurrection. 930 00:49:04,800 --> 00:49:08,533 (fireworks whirring) 931 00:49:08,533 --> 00:49:10,933 And back at the Vatican, Saint Peter's Square 932 00:49:10,933 --> 00:49:14,133 is once again filled as this 2,000 year old tradition 933 00:49:14,133 --> 00:49:16,733 is celebrated with another huge mass, 934 00:49:16,733 --> 00:49:19,000 bringing together an international crowd 935 00:49:19,000 --> 00:49:20,633 and a global audience. 936 00:49:20,633 --> 00:49:21,900 (gentle music) 937 00:49:21,900 --> 00:49:24,100 In addition to Saint Peter's, worshipers fill 938 00:49:24,100 --> 00:49:26,166 venerable churches throughout Rome, 939 00:49:26,166 --> 00:49:29,633 which are busy with Easter masses all day long. 940 00:49:29,633 --> 00:49:32,333 As is the case everywhere in Christendom, 941 00:49:32,333 --> 00:49:34,566 communities come together with splendid, 942 00:49:34,566 --> 00:49:38,700 yet dignified fanfare, all to celebrate the resurrection 943 00:49:38,700 --> 00:49:40,766 and the promise of salvation. 944 00:49:40,766 --> 00:49:43,566 (pleasant music) 945 00:49:45,300 --> 00:49:49,366 (choristers singing in foreign language) 946 00:49:49,366 --> 00:49:52,233 And then as if famished by all the processing 947 00:49:52,233 --> 00:49:54,500 and church going, across the lands, 948 00:49:54,500 --> 00:49:57,900 families settle down to ritual feasts. 949 00:49:57,900 --> 00:50:00,866 It seems the gift of Easter and the promise of spring 950 00:50:00,866 --> 00:50:04,133 brings out a deep seated urge to gather loved ones together 951 00:50:04,133 --> 00:50:06,600 and embrace life in its fullest. 952 00:50:07,733 --> 00:50:10,533 Throughout Italy, Easter Sunday is a special time 953 00:50:10,533 --> 00:50:13,833 for family and friends to celebrate the good news. 954 00:50:13,833 --> 00:50:16,166 Sacred traditions rich with symbolism 955 00:50:16,166 --> 00:50:19,366 survive most vividly in tiny villages, 956 00:50:19,366 --> 00:50:22,833 grandmothers make holiday rolls called ciambella. 957 00:50:22,833 --> 00:50:25,266 With a gentle touch, the dough is kneaded 958 00:50:25,266 --> 00:50:27,100 and then shaped into rings. 959 00:50:28,333 --> 00:50:31,566 The ring shape represents the crown of thorns. 960 00:50:31,566 --> 00:50:33,533 Meanwhile, grandfather tends the oven 961 00:50:33,533 --> 00:50:35,966 with wood from his olive trees. 962 00:50:35,966 --> 00:50:37,866 When the coals are just right, 963 00:50:37,866 --> 00:50:40,566 the ciambella arrive as if on cue. 964 00:50:40,566 --> 00:50:43,733 And drawing from the practice of a lifetime of Easters, 965 00:50:43,733 --> 00:50:46,333 they're cooked to perfection. 966 00:50:46,333 --> 00:50:49,733 In his cellar, he cuts a cured pork salami, 967 00:50:49,733 --> 00:50:52,633 hung there to dry especially for this Easter breakfast. 968 00:50:53,933 --> 00:50:57,233 As all generations gather, the feast begins. 969 00:50:57,233 --> 00:51:00,300 Grandfather slices his prized salami, 970 00:51:00,300 --> 00:51:02,733 he blesses the occasion with a toast. 971 00:51:02,733 --> 00:51:05,866 (family speaking Italian) 972 00:51:05,866 --> 00:51:09,100 Eggs and a variety of holiday breads are shared. 973 00:51:09,100 --> 00:51:11,866 (family speaking Italian) 974 00:51:11,866 --> 00:51:15,233 The ciambella are served with a small glass of Vin Santo, 975 00:51:15,233 --> 00:51:17,833 again recalling the body and blood of Jesus. 976 00:51:17,833 --> 00:51:22,900 (pleasant music) (family speaking Italian) 977 00:51:24,266 --> 00:51:26,600 On Easter Sunday, it seems everyone has a place to be. 978 00:51:26,600 --> 00:51:30,000 And I'm fortunate to join friends in this Tuscan farmhouse. 979 00:51:31,300 --> 00:51:34,100 To be so far from my own home and loved ones, 980 00:51:34,100 --> 00:51:36,266 yet feel so welcome with this family, 981 00:51:36,266 --> 00:51:40,400 is a memory I'll treasure for the rest of my Easters. 982 00:51:40,400 --> 00:51:44,000 And after the meal, the kids, so obedient at the table, 983 00:51:44,000 --> 00:51:46,433 are now free to storm their chocolate eggs 984 00:51:46,433 --> 00:51:49,633 for the gift traditionally hidden inside. 985 00:51:49,633 --> 00:51:52,133 (family cheering and applauding) 986 00:51:52,133 --> 00:51:54,666 Joining the parents and grandparents looking on, 987 00:51:54,666 --> 00:51:58,333 we all recall similar Easter moments from our childhoods. 988 00:51:58,333 --> 00:52:01,866 (family speaking Italian) 989 00:52:04,666 --> 00:52:06,633 And in Rome, older celebrants 990 00:52:06,633 --> 00:52:09,500 embrace the holiday egg theme as well. 991 00:52:09,500 --> 00:52:12,166 Enjoying a personal moment as an extravagant 992 00:52:12,166 --> 00:52:15,533 Easter banquet awaits, Antonella gives Manuela 993 00:52:15,533 --> 00:52:17,333 her big chocolate egg. 994 00:52:18,666 --> 00:52:21,666 She discovers her gift, a celebration of their love 995 00:52:21,666 --> 00:52:23,800 and commitment to each other. 996 00:52:23,800 --> 00:52:26,833 (family speaking Italian) 997 00:52:26,833 --> 00:52:28,433 (lips puckering) 998 00:52:28,433 --> 00:52:29,833 (birds chirping) 999 00:52:29,833 --> 00:52:33,200 In Slovenia, family and friends have also gathered. 1000 00:52:34,166 --> 00:52:36,066 The Easter table is laden with food 1001 00:52:36,066 --> 00:52:38,033 thoroughly blessed the day before. 1002 00:52:39,533 --> 00:52:41,833 There's a timeless joy in this intimate scene 1003 00:52:41,833 --> 00:52:43,500 as parents laugh together, 1004 00:52:44,666 --> 00:52:48,000 children do the serious work of cracking eggs. 1005 00:52:48,000 --> 00:52:50,733 And a grandmother cradles her baby granddaughter 1006 00:52:50,733 --> 00:52:53,100 trying to make sense of her first Easter. 1007 00:52:54,300 --> 00:52:56,633 And after a long winter and Lent, 1008 00:52:56,633 --> 00:52:59,833 it seems like there's more than enough ham and potica 1009 00:52:59,833 --> 00:53:01,733 to last through spring. 1010 00:53:01,733 --> 00:53:04,366 (gentle music) 1011 00:53:05,666 --> 00:53:08,433 Children across cultures probably yet to appreciate 1012 00:53:08,433 --> 00:53:11,033 all this resurrection and rebirth symbolism 1013 00:53:11,033 --> 00:53:14,066 certainly know the excitement of an Easter egg hunt. 1014 00:53:15,333 --> 00:53:17,800 Back in Greece, this community has organized one 1015 00:53:17,800 --> 00:53:19,000 in the town park. 1016 00:53:20,266 --> 00:53:22,900 It's a mad scramble to find as many eggs as possible 1017 00:53:22,900 --> 00:53:24,533 as quickly as possible. 1018 00:53:25,833 --> 00:53:29,300 And as is so often the case, the tearful little one 1019 00:53:29,300 --> 00:53:32,066 who missed out gets a little extra love. 1020 00:53:32,066 --> 00:53:34,500 (pleasant music) 1021 00:53:34,500 --> 00:53:38,466 In villages all across Greece, families are grilling lamb, 1022 00:53:39,566 --> 00:53:43,233 eating, singing, and dancing. 1023 00:53:45,800 --> 00:53:48,433 (upbeat music) 1024 00:53:51,166 --> 00:53:55,700 It seems there's a spring lamb on a spit in every backyard. 1025 00:53:55,700 --> 00:53:59,366 The roast takes hours, but no one's in a hurry. 1026 00:54:00,866 --> 00:54:02,433 It's an all day affair. 1027 00:54:03,933 --> 00:54:05,633 People move between households, 1028 00:54:05,633 --> 00:54:08,966 checking on each other's lambs and socializing. 1029 00:54:08,966 --> 00:54:11,466 When the spit stops, the feast begins. 1030 00:54:12,933 --> 00:54:16,700 Lamb off the bone, lamb off the fingers. 1031 00:54:16,700 --> 00:54:18,600 Beer, wine, 1032 00:54:19,866 --> 00:54:22,000 music, more food, 1033 00:54:22,766 --> 00:54:25,400 more fun, more lamb. 1034 00:54:26,566 --> 00:54:28,600 People party all day long. 1035 00:54:30,100 --> 00:54:31,666 Eventually, the village ends up 1036 00:54:31,666 --> 00:54:33,966 back at the church dancing and singing. 1037 00:54:35,033 --> 00:54:37,000 Together, they celebrate as they have 1038 00:54:37,000 --> 00:54:39,733 every year for all their lives, 1039 00:54:39,733 --> 00:54:41,700 celebrating the hope of renewal 1040 00:54:41,700 --> 00:54:44,933 at yet another joyous Easter Sunday. 1041 00:54:44,933 --> 00:54:47,733 (pleasant music) 1042 00:54:50,300 --> 00:54:52,233 (upbeat music) 1043 00:54:52,233 --> 00:54:54,833 I've always enjoyed how exploring other cultures 1044 00:54:54,833 --> 00:54:57,833 brings more meaning to my own cherished traditions. 1045 00:54:57,833 --> 00:55:00,133 I hope this holiday journey has given new meaning 1046 00:55:00,133 --> 00:55:02,600 to your Easter as it has mine. 1047 00:55:02,600 --> 00:55:05,966 I'm Rick Steves, thanks for joining us and happy Easter. 1048 00:55:09,433 --> 00:55:10,900 - Hey, I'm Rick Steves. 1049 00:55:10,900 --> 00:55:13,333 Reflecting on the program you've just seen, 1050 00:55:13,333 --> 00:55:16,066 think of the educational value of the programming 1051 00:55:16,066 --> 00:55:19,866 this station brings to your community day in and day out. 1052 00:55:19,866 --> 00:55:24,200 Public television is not a charity, it's a service. 1053 00:55:24,200 --> 00:55:25,566 If you're enjoying this service 1054 00:55:25,566 --> 00:55:28,100 and can't afford to help out, that's fine. 1055 00:55:28,100 --> 00:55:30,900 That's the beauty of public broadcasting. 1056 00:55:30,900 --> 00:55:33,600 But if you're enjoying it and you can afford to help out, 1057 00:55:33,600 --> 00:55:36,066 it's only right to do so. 1058 00:55:36,066 --> 00:55:37,933 This is bigger than you and me. 1059 00:55:37,933 --> 00:55:40,666 This station is important for our families, 1060 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