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-Hey, I'm Rick Steves 
and we're in Poland.

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This is a land of soul and pride 
with a hard history

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that created an epic story 
and a strong culture.

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In this special, 
we'll see why this is

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such a rewarding place to visit.

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Thanks for joining us.

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♪

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♪

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♪

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♪

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In this hour, we'll see Poland's 
highlights:

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Kraków's crowd-pleasing 
square, its medieval glory,

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and tasty cuisine.

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-Wow. Potato pancakes.

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Grandma's food 
is always the best food.

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-We'll remember the horror 
of the Holocaust

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and take a nostalgic 
communist-era joy ride.

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We'll cook like a local -- 
or at least try...

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and cap our visit 
with a twilight stroll.

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Warsaw, Poland's 
cosmopolitan capital,

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is gilded with a grand palace 
and a trendy urbanity.

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We'll learn about its 
turbulent 20th century

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and enjoy some Chopin 
in the park.

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Then we visit 
a gingerbread medieval town,

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taste its sweet claim to fame,

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and storm a massive 
Teutonic fortress.

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Finally, we'll discover 
the port of Gdansk

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and how it helped bring 
down communism in Europe.

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Poland -- about the 
size of Arizona --

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sits in the north 
of central Europe.

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Medieval Poland was

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prominent on 
Europe's map,

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but in the late 
1700s it disappeared,

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partitioned by its 
powerful neighbors.

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It reappeared 
after WWI.

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Then, after WWII, 
it was part of

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communist 
Eastern Europe.

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And today, with the

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Iron Curtain long gone,

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Poland is a 
leading country

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in Central Europe.

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We're following 
the Vistula River --

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from Poland's 
historic

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and cultural 
capital Kraków,

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to its modern 
capital Warsaw,

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further north, past

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Torun and 
Malbork Castle,

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and finishing at 
Gdansk

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on the 
Baltic Sea.

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♪

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Poland's political capital

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may have moved to Warsaw 
centuries ago,

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but Kraków 
remains the historic, cultural,

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and intellectual capital...

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a proud symbol 
of the Polish national identity.

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Kraków -- 
or, as locals like to say,

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"Crock-oof" -- 
was a trading center,

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a crossroads that boomed 
back in the 11th century.

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Today, it's a sprawling city 
of a million

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with a delightful Old Town.

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And everything converges 
on the majestic

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and massive Main Market Square.

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It's hard not to be drawn 
to this square.

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It bustles with life --

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enticing cafes...

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families out for a stroll...

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fairy-tale carriages...

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♪

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a youthful energy,

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and, it seems, 
half the tourists in Poland.

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♪

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St. Mary's Church 
stands tall over it all.

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Its spire doubles 
as the town watchtower.

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♪

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[ Bell tolling ]

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At the top of each 
hour -- literally 24/7 --

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a fireman with a trumpet 
comes to the window

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and plays a tune... 
[ Trumpet playing ]

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to announce "all is well"...

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a tune that suddenly dies --

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recalling a legend 
in which a watchman's throat

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was pierced by an enemy arrow.

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[ Trumpet stops playing 
abruptly ]

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[ Applause ]

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Inside St. Mary's each midday 
is a medieval moment:

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a nun swings open the doors' 
much-adored altarpiece.

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♪

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This exquisite Gothic triptych 
with hinged panels

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was carved in the late 1400s 
by Veit Stoss.

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One of the most impressive 
medieval woodcarvings in Europe,

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it depicts the Virgin Mary's 
ascent to heaven

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with emotion rare in Gothic art.

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♪

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The square's centerpiece 
is the Cloth Hall.

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Once a marketplace 
for cloth merchants,

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today it's home 
to souvenir stalls.

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Vendors sell gifty crafts 
from all over Poland.

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Like painted wooden plates 
from the mountain forests...

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colorful embroidery 
delicately hand-stitched...

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hand-painted pottery 
from Silesia...

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and amber jewelry 
from the Baltic Coast,

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for your favorite 
travel partner.

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Kraków's Old Town is compact 
and easy to navigate.

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The vibe is relaxed as modern 
and medieval mix it up.

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In the 13th century, 
after their city was destroyed

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by invaders from the east,

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Krakówians rebuilt it 
with a near-perfect grid plan.

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Today, it's pedestrian-friendly 
and thriving.

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They also encircled their city 
with a wall

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featuring classic ramparts 
and towers.

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The big, round free-standing 
fort is a barbican,

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which provided extra protection 
at the main gate.

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Later, the wall 
was mostly torn down

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leaving just a few 
evocative remnants.

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♪

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The moat was filled in,

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and a fine park was created 
in its place.

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This circular green belt, 
called the Planty,

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is popular with 
today's Krakówians.

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And if you need a break 
from all the tourists,

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you can bike or hike 
around the Planty

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and along the riverbank.

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It's a charming local scene --

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fun-loving boaters...

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lazy picnics...

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but beware the dragon!

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♪

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Oh, and if you think 
you're good at chess,

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challenge one of these guys.

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♪

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The riverside path 
is inviting...

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and so is the playful rigging

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on its delightful 
pedestrian bridge.

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♪

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Cultured Kraków 
comes with fine museums.

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♪

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The Czartoryski Museum shows off 
the eclectic collection

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of a local aristocrat.

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Its galleries span 
the centuries...

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and it's worth a visit for 
one painting in particular --

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Leonardo da Vinci's 
Lady with an Ermine .

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♪

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Leonardo painted 
this lifelike portrait

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before his more famous 
Mona Lisa ,

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but he used the same 
enigmatic smile.

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The subject was likely 
the 16-year-old mistress

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of the powerful Duke of Milan.

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She was famous 
for her beauty and charm.

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♪

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Her white ermine was a symbol 
of loyalty and purity...

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♪

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...but it was also the nickname 
of her lover.

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I guess it's up to the viewer to 
decide what's really goin' on.

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Kraków has been called 
"Little Rome."

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That's because of 
its many churches.

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There are 23 
in the Old Town alone.

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[ Choir singing ]

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The country is 
devoutly Catholic.

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♪

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Almost 2/3 of Poles 
attend weekly Mass,

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so churches here aren't just 
tourist attractions --

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they're alive with worshipers.

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Catholicism is central 
to Polish identity.

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♪

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[ Singing ends ]

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Squeezed for centuries 
between Protestant Germans

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and Orthodox Russia, 
Poles were united

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and strengthened 
by their Catholic faith.

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And after WWII,

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when Poland was ruled 
by anti-Church communists,

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going to Mass 
was more than worship --

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it was a political statement...

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a chance to express both dissent 
and a desire for freedom.

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It was during 
these challenging times

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that a charismatic Kraków priest 
named Karol Wojtyla

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led his flock in defiance 
of communist authorities.

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Throughout 
the 1950s, '60s, and '70s,

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he fought for 
the right to worship

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inside the communist state.

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The Church hierarchy 
was impressed,

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and in 1978, 
that humble Polish priest

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was elected Pope John Paul II.

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The first non-Italian pope 
in centuries

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was made a saint in 2014.

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Although he's 
a controversial figure to some,

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many locals consider him 
"the greatest Pole."

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Kraków's Franciscan Church 
was special to John Paul.

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He'd come here all alone 
to pray.

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♪

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This was his favorite pew, 
way in the back.

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To people across 
the Eastern Bloc,

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and to Catholics worldwide, 
Pope John Paul II

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embodied the resistance 
fighting Soviet rule,

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and he inspired 
the Polish people

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with his soothing refrain, 
"Have no fear."

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The church is also 
a fine introduction

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to Art Nouveau Polish style.

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♪

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With its stained glass 
weaving together images

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of the favorite 
Franciscan saints,

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it employs the movement's 
characteristic organic swoops

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and floral motifs.

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Another window shows God 
in the Act of Creation,

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turning natural light 
into spiritual energy.

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♪

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The Art Nouveau style flourished 
across Europe

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in the early 20th century.

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While Klimt was painting 
in Vienna,

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and Mucha was busy in Prague,

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Poland's Art Nouveau movement 
was led by Stanislaw Wyspianski.

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♪

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At the museum 
dedicated to the artist,

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you see how the movement 
was playful, lyrical,

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and inspired by folklore.

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♪

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Wyspianski 
and his fellow artists

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mixed gloom and mysticism

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into beauty 
that came with a message --

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the spirit of Poland 
will live on.

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♪

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To learn more about Polish 
culture, I'm joined by my friend

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and fellow tour guide, 
Tomasz Klimek.

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Every time I travel in Poland,

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it seems vodka is 
quite important.

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What does vodka mean to Poland?

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-Vodka is definitely 
our national drink.

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We take it very seriously. 
We're very proud of it.

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Polish vodka is a brand that 
is renowned all over the world,

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and we do take our vodka 
very seriously.

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So Polish vodka, does 
that mean Polish ingredients?

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Polish vodka has to be 
not only made in Poland

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but made from Polish 
local ingredients.

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And those could be 
either potatoes,

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so we have potato vodka, 
or grain.

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-So is this potatoes or grain? 
-This one is grain vodka.

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-Which do you like better? 
-I like grain better.

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That's my favorite.

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-So is there a ritual for 
drinking it in a pub or a bar?

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-Yes, there is. 
When we celebrate,

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we drink it with our friends, 
and we do mainly the shots.

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And we don't sip it like this. 
We just do the bottoms up.

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-Is that right? No sipping? 
-No sipping.

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-What if I sip? 
What do people think?

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-Well, if you want to be 
really local,

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you better do the bottoms up.

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-Okay, so really, 
just throw it right down.

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-Exactly. 
-And how do you say toast?

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00:12:07,433 --> 00:12:09,900
-Na zdrowie. 
-Na zdrowie.

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-And bottoms up.

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[ Exhales sharply ] 
-[ Chuckles ] Ha!

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00:12:15,933 --> 00:12:17,700
-Yes!

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-With or without vodka, 
Poles know how to have fun.

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On this warm September evening,

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people are out and about 
enjoying the moment --

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whether at cafes with a view, 
in the back streets,

256
00:12:30,133 --> 00:12:32,966
or in characteristic 
cellar bars.

257
00:12:33,033 --> 00:12:35,966
It's time for 
a traditional Polish dinner,

258
00:12:36,033 --> 00:12:38,933
and Tomasz is eager 
to give us an education

259
00:12:39,000 --> 00:12:41,000
in his favorite cuisine.

260
00:12:41,066 --> 00:12:42,600
I get a feeling that in Poland

261
00:12:42,666 --> 00:12:44,866
the cuisine is a 
very proud part of the culture.

262
00:12:44,933 --> 00:12:47,300
-Yes, and getting to know 
the culture through its food

263
00:12:47,366 --> 00:12:49,033
is always the best way,

264
00:12:49,100 --> 00:12:51,400
and tonight we're trying 
all the classics.

265
00:12:51,466 --> 00:12:53,133
They always start 
with the soup.

266
00:12:53,200 --> 00:12:56,066
Soup is an integral part 
of our meal,

267
00:12:56,133 --> 00:12:59,433
so we have around 200 different 
soups for different occasions,

268
00:12:59,500 --> 00:13:03,100
and today we're having 
the most traditional ones.

269
00:13:03,166 --> 00:13:06,066
So what you're having 
is called zurek.

270
00:13:06,133 --> 00:13:07,900
-Zurek. 
-Zurek, perfect.

271
00:13:07,966 --> 00:13:11,333
Fermented rye flour forms 
a base for the soup.

272
00:13:11,400 --> 00:13:14,200
-I can taste that -- that rye. 
There's that sourness.

273
00:13:14,266 --> 00:13:16,433
Fermented rye. 
And what's yours?

274
00:13:16,500 --> 00:13:19,933
-And I am having borscht. 
-Borscht?

275
00:13:20,000 --> 00:13:23,200
-Yes, just beetroot soup 
with the pieces of beetroot,

276
00:13:23,266 --> 00:13:25,833
with potatoes, 
and with dill as a final touch.

277
00:13:25,900 --> 00:13:27,366
-This is a good start 
to the meal.

278
00:13:27,433 --> 00:13:30,466
How do we say bon appetit? 
-In Poland, we say  smacznego.

279
00:13:30,533 --> 00:13:32,600
-Smacznego. 
-Smacznego,  perfect.

280
00:13:32,666 --> 00:13:34,966
-Alright. 
-Smacznego.  Enjoy your meal.

281
00:13:35,033 --> 00:13:37,000
♪

282
00:13:37,066 --> 00:13:40,300
-Oh. 
-Wow. Potato pancakes...

283
00:13:40,366 --> 00:13:42,066
Thank you.

284
00:13:42,133 --> 00:13:44,666
Always one of Polish classics, 
potato pancakes.

285
00:13:44,733 --> 00:13:48,266
Crispy on the outside, 
soft inside,

286
00:13:48,333 --> 00:13:51,366
which is a secret 
of every grandma.

287
00:13:51,433 --> 00:13:55,533
So, there are many different 
ways of having potato pancakes.

288
00:13:55,600 --> 00:13:57,133
One is with sour cream.

289
00:13:57,200 --> 00:13:59,566
The other traditional way is 
having them with goulash.

290
00:13:59,633 --> 00:14:01,366
-I bet there's a lot of 
childhood memories

291
00:14:01,433 --> 00:14:03,500
on that plate. 
-Oh, yes,

292
00:14:03,566 --> 00:14:07,000
because, you know, grandma's 
food is always the best food.

293
00:14:07,066 --> 00:14:09,233
This is the one 
that you remember, so, yes.

294
00:14:09,300 --> 00:14:12,500
-This restaurant specializes 
in grandma's cooking.

295
00:14:12,566 --> 00:14:14,733
Krakówians come for 
both the great food

296
00:14:14,800 --> 00:14:17,333
and to feel nostalgic.

297
00:14:17,400 --> 00:14:20,400
So now our education 
in Polish cuisine continues.

298
00:14:20,466 --> 00:14:22,966
-Yes, we continue 
with three other classics.

299
00:14:23,033 --> 00:14:25,900
We have Polish sausage, 
kielbasa.

300
00:14:25,966 --> 00:14:28,266
This is something you must try 
while you're in Poland

301
00:14:28,333 --> 00:14:30,466
and we're having 
the grilled version right now

302
00:14:30,533 --> 00:14:34,566
served with onions fried 
on butter together with mustard.

303
00:14:34,633 --> 00:14:36,433
-Sausage and beers. 
-Always.

304
00:14:36,500 --> 00:14:38,333
-Life is good. 
-Always together.

305
00:14:38,400 --> 00:14:41,133
-What's next? 
-So, the next is bigos.

306
00:14:41,200 --> 00:14:45,600
Bigos sometimes being translated 
as a hunter's stew.

307
00:14:45,666 --> 00:14:49,500
Basically, fermented cabbage, 
meat, sausage,

308
00:14:49,566 --> 00:14:53,300
mushroom, and a lot of spices 
boiled for many days.

309
00:14:53,366 --> 00:14:55,333
-And there's another plate. 
-And there's another plate,

310
00:14:55,400 --> 00:14:58,000
another Polish classic, golabki.

311
00:14:58,066 --> 00:15:03,000
-So golabki, cabbage rolls that 
are stuffed with rice and meat.

312
00:15:03,066 --> 00:15:06,266
And we serve them 
with tomato sauce.

313
00:15:06,333 --> 00:15:10,466
♪

314
00:15:10,533 --> 00:15:12,900
No matter how much you eat, 
there's always room for dessert,

315
00:15:12,966 --> 00:15:15,233
so we are having a  racuchy .

316
00:15:15,300 --> 00:15:18,400
Racuchy  is a...you would call 
it like apple fritter.

317
00:15:18,466 --> 00:15:20,500
It comes not only 
with the powdered sugar,

318
00:15:20,566 --> 00:15:25,833
but also with vanilla and berry 
sauce that you put on top of it.

319
00:15:25,900 --> 00:15:31,766
♪

320
00:15:31,833 --> 00:15:33,366
-This is great.

321
00:15:33,433 --> 00:15:35,333
And, you know, 
food tastes even better

322
00:15:35,400 --> 00:15:37,366
when you know a little bit 
about what you're eating.

323
00:15:37,433 --> 00:15:38,666
-It's true.

324
00:15:40,666 --> 00:15:42,200
-From Kraków's Old Town,

325
00:15:42,266 --> 00:15:44,800
a ramp leads up to 
the most hallowed ground

326
00:15:44,866 --> 00:15:46,766
in all of Poland.

327
00:15:46,833 --> 00:15:49,833
Wawel Hill is sacred 
to the Polish people --

328
00:15:49,900 --> 00:15:53,900
a castle and royal residence 
since the 11th century.

329
00:15:53,966 --> 00:15:57,400
The park-like scene entices 
Poles to drop by

330
00:15:57,466 --> 00:16:00,466
and celebrate their nation's 
epic story.

331
00:16:00,533 --> 00:16:02,366
Everything is layered 
in history,

332
00:16:02,433 --> 00:16:06,166
including the venerable 
Wawel Cathedral.

333
00:16:06,233 --> 00:16:08,733
Architecturally, 
it's a hodgepodge --

334
00:16:08,800 --> 00:16:12,200
a riot of towers and chapels.

335
00:16:12,266 --> 00:16:15,233
This national church, 
with its many tombs,

336
00:16:15,300 --> 00:16:18,900
is a who's who of the nation's 
most beloved figures --

337
00:16:18,966 --> 00:16:24,900
from saints, to generals, 
to kings and queens.

338
00:16:24,966 --> 00:16:27,433
And if you're going to remember 
only one name,

339
00:16:27,500 --> 00:16:29,566
make it Kazimierz the Great.

340
00:16:29,633 --> 00:16:33,633
He ruled Poland from Kraków 
in the 14th century.

341
00:16:33,700 --> 00:16:36,733
The larger-than-life 
Kazimierz was a great warrior,

342
00:16:36,800 --> 00:16:40,233
diplomat, and patron 
of the arts.

343
00:16:40,300 --> 00:16:41,833
His scribes bragged that

344
00:16:41,900 --> 00:16:43,933
"Kazimierz found 
Poland made of wood,

345
00:16:44,000 --> 00:16:46,600
and left it made of stone 
and brick."

346
00:16:46,666 --> 00:16:50,166
In fact, he even made it 
onto the 50 zloty note.

347
00:16:50,233 --> 00:16:54,066
Kazimierz provided refuge for 
Jews expelled from other lands,

348
00:16:54,133 --> 00:16:56,066
and he established the tradition

349
00:16:56,133 --> 00:16:59,400
that Poland would provide 
safe refuge for Europe's Jews.

350
00:16:59,466 --> 00:17:01,366
In fact, for centuries,

351
00:17:01,433 --> 00:17:03,766
an estimated 1/3 
of the world's Jews

352
00:17:03,833 --> 00:17:08,200
lived right here in a land 
known as "the Jewish paradise."

353
00:17:09,766 --> 00:17:12,066
While they still faced 
some persecution,

354
00:17:12,133 --> 00:17:16,000
Jews carved out a relatively 
vital niche in Polish society,

355
00:17:16,066 --> 00:17:17,366
as Poland became home to

356
00:17:17,433 --> 00:17:20,800
an estimated 
1/3 of the world's Jews.

357
00:17:20,866 --> 00:17:25,300
Kraków's historic Jewish 
district is named for Kazimierz.

358
00:17:25,366 --> 00:17:27,066
Until the 20th century,

359
00:17:27,133 --> 00:17:30,200
Jews made up a quarter 
of Kraków's population.

360
00:17:30,266 --> 00:17:32,533
Of the neighborhood's 
many historic synagogues,

361
00:17:32,600 --> 00:17:34,833
some are still places 
of worship.

362
00:17:34,900 --> 00:17:37,033
♪

363
00:17:37,100 --> 00:17:40,466
But today the economy is 
mostly tourism.

364
00:17:40,533 --> 00:17:43,633
And touristy restaurants 
feature klezmer,

365
00:17:43,700 --> 00:17:45,566
a Jewish traditional folk music

366
00:17:45,633 --> 00:17:49,233
that stokes a nostalgia 
for their poignant story.

367
00:17:49,300 --> 00:17:59,200
♪

368
00:17:59,266 --> 00:18:09,133
♪

369
00:18:09,200 --> 00:18:19,100
♪

370
00:18:19,166 --> 00:18:29,100
♪

371
00:18:29,166 --> 00:18:30,633
♪

372
00:18:30,700 --> 00:18:33,600
[ Cheers and applause ]

373
00:18:37,666 --> 00:18:39,133
♪

374
00:18:39,200 --> 00:18:43,666
The Old Cemetery of Kazimierz 
also honors the Jewish past.

375
00:18:43,733 --> 00:18:48,866
This grave remembers 
a beloved 16th century rabbi.

376
00:18:48,933 --> 00:18:52,333
Prayers are lovingly tucked 
into the cracks and crevices

377
00:18:52,400 --> 00:18:54,133
of his tombstone,

378
00:18:54,200 --> 00:18:56,500
and rocks 
stacked atop tombs --

379
00:18:56,566 --> 00:18:58,166
also representing prayers --

380
00:18:58,233 --> 00:19:00,366
recall the ancient 
Jewish tradition

381
00:19:00,433 --> 00:19:03,066
of covering sandy graves 
with stones

382
00:19:03,133 --> 00:19:05,166
to prevent them 
from being disturbed.

383
00:19:06,800 --> 00:19:08,933
Jewish cemeteries, 
like the community

384
00:19:09,000 --> 00:19:11,633
of Kazimierz itself, 
were nearly destroyed

385
00:19:11,700 --> 00:19:15,333
after Nazi Germany invaded 
Poland in 1939.

386
00:19:15,400 --> 00:19:17,500
♪

387
00:19:17,566 --> 00:19:20,166
Gravestones, crushed 
under Nazi tank treads,

388
00:19:20,233 --> 00:19:23,433
were later assembled 
into memorial mosaic walls.

389
00:19:23,500 --> 00:19:26,766
♪

390
00:19:26,833 --> 00:19:28,366
During the Holocaust,

391
00:19:28,433 --> 00:19:30,266
the vast majority 
of Kraków's Jews

392
00:19:30,333 --> 00:19:32,766
ended up in concentration camps,

393
00:19:32,833 --> 00:19:36,466
and fewer than 1 in 10 
survived World War II.

394
00:19:38,200 --> 00:19:40,100
About an hour away is perhaps

395
00:19:40,166 --> 00:19:43,566
the most powerful Holocaust 
memorial in all of Europe --

396
00:19:43,633 --> 00:19:47,200
the concentration camp 
at Auschwitz-Birkenau.

397
00:19:48,166 --> 00:19:50,566
This was the biggest 
and most notorious

398
00:19:50,633 --> 00:19:54,200
concentration camp 
in the vast Nazi system.

399
00:19:54,266 --> 00:19:57,566
After invading 
and occupying Poland in 1939,

400
00:19:57,633 --> 00:20:00,366
Nazi Germany built 
many such camps here,

401
00:20:00,433 --> 00:20:03,600
far from 
mainstream German society.

402
00:20:03,666 --> 00:20:07,833
Ultimately, they murdered an 
estimated six million people --

403
00:20:07,900 --> 00:20:09,266
mostly Jews,

404
00:20:09,333 --> 00:20:12,100
and about half of those 
came from Poland.

405
00:20:14,200 --> 00:20:17,733
The Nazis turned this army base 
into a death camp.

406
00:20:17,800 --> 00:20:21,300
Over a million people, 
the vast majority of them Jews,

407
00:20:21,366 --> 00:20:26,033
were systematically exterminated 
here at Auschwitz.

408
00:20:26,100 --> 00:20:29,966
The notorious gate welcomed 
inmates with a cruel lie:

409
00:20:30,033 --> 00:20:32,033
Arbeit Macht Frei.

410
00:20:32,100 --> 00:20:34,200
"Work will set you free."

411
00:20:35,900 --> 00:20:37,800
The former cell blocks 
now display

412
00:20:37,866 --> 00:20:41,600
powerful museum exhibits 
that, while difficult to see,

413
00:20:41,666 --> 00:20:45,466
must, out of respect 
to its victims, be seen.

414
00:20:45,533 --> 00:20:48,833
♪

415
00:20:48,900 --> 00:20:51,066
People were told 
they'd be starting new lives

416
00:20:51,133 --> 00:20:54,800
and to bring luggage -- clearly 
labeled with their names.

417
00:20:54,866 --> 00:20:56,333
After they were killed,

418
00:20:56,400 --> 00:21:00,700
everything of value 
was seized and sorted.

419
00:21:00,766 --> 00:21:03,133
Crutches and prosthetic limbs 
remind us

420
00:21:03,200 --> 00:21:05,200
that the first people 
exterminated

421
00:21:05,266 --> 00:21:07,733
were the mentally 
and physically ill.

422
00:21:09,166 --> 00:21:11,800
Piles of glasses...

423
00:21:11,866 --> 00:21:14,833
a seemingly endless mountain 
of shoes...

424
00:21:14,900 --> 00:21:17,766
it's hard to comprehend 
the numbers.

425
00:21:17,833 --> 00:21:21,866
Even children. 
The Nazis spared no one.

426
00:21:21,933 --> 00:21:24,333
♪

427
00:21:24,400 --> 00:21:29,133
Halls are lined with photographs 
of victims --

428
00:21:29,200 --> 00:21:30,333
men...

429
00:21:30,400 --> 00:21:32,766
♪

430
00:21:32,833 --> 00:21:35,200
...and women...

431
00:21:35,266 --> 00:21:39,600
each marked with the date of 
arrival and the date of death.

432
00:21:39,666 --> 00:21:43,600
Inmates rarely survived 
more than a couple months.

433
00:21:45,066 --> 00:21:48,666
The gas chamber and crematorium 
is marked by its chimney.

434
00:21:48,733 --> 00:21:51,733
Up to 700 people at a time 
could be gassed,

435
00:21:51,800 --> 00:21:56,266
but it required two days to burn 
that many bodies.

436
00:21:56,333 --> 00:21:59,300
The Nazis wanted an 
even higher death toll,

437
00:21:59,366 --> 00:22:02,633
so they built a 
far bigger camp nearby.

438
00:22:04,300 --> 00:22:06,300
That camp, called Birkenau,

439
00:22:06,366 --> 00:22:09,600
was an efficient factory 
for the mass production of death

440
00:22:09,666 --> 00:22:13,033
designed to implement the 
Nazis' 
Final Solution --

441
00:22:13,100 --> 00:22:14,700
genocide...

442
00:22:14,766 --> 00:22:17,333
the murder of all Jews.

443
00:22:18,733 --> 00:22:22,933
It could hold about 100,000 
prisoners at a time.

444
00:22:23,000 --> 00:22:26,466
People from all over Europe 
were loaded like animals

445
00:22:26,533 --> 00:22:28,800
into train cars like this.

446
00:22:28,866 --> 00:22:31,300
They'd pass 
under the infamous gatehouse,

447
00:22:31,366 --> 00:22:34,733
into the camp, 
and to the dividing platform.

448
00:22:34,800 --> 00:22:44,533
♪

449
00:22:45,533 --> 00:22:49,000
A Nazi doctor stood here 
and evaluated each prisoner

450
00:22:49,066 --> 00:22:50,633
as they stepped off the train.

451
00:22:50,700 --> 00:22:53,233
If he pointed one way, 
that prisoner marched,

452
00:22:53,300 --> 00:22:55,866
unknowingly, 
directly to the gas chamber.

453
00:22:55,933 --> 00:22:57,300
If he pointed the other,

454
00:22:57,366 --> 00:22:59,500
the person was judged 
fit to work

455
00:22:59,566 --> 00:23:01,866
and would live a little longer.

456
00:23:01,933 --> 00:23:04,933
It was here that countless 
families from across Europe

457
00:23:05,000 --> 00:23:07,100
were torn apart forever.

458
00:23:10,300 --> 00:23:13,500
Barracks were packed with up to 
1,000 prisoners --

459
00:23:13,566 --> 00:23:17,300
each person with an ID number 
rather than a name.

460
00:23:17,366 --> 00:23:19,766
Two chimneys connected 
by a brick duct

461
00:23:19,833 --> 00:23:21,433
provided a little heat.

462
00:23:23,100 --> 00:23:25,533
The bricks are worn smooth 
by countless inmates

463
00:23:25,600 --> 00:23:27,133
who sat here 
to catch a little warmth

464
00:23:27,200 --> 00:23:29,500
in the middle 
of a bitter Polish winter.

465
00:23:29,566 --> 00:23:31,700
I can't imagine 
how cold they must have been,

466
00:23:31,766 --> 00:23:34,333
hungry, wet, 
and dressed in rags...

467
00:23:34,400 --> 00:23:35,966
and terrified.

468
00:23:36,033 --> 00:23:38,966
As the Allies advanced 
and Germany retreated,

469
00:23:39,033 --> 00:23:41,933
the Nazis bombed the evidence 
of their crimes.

470
00:23:42,000 --> 00:23:44,533
The gas chambers, 
where the mass killing was done,

471
00:23:44,600 --> 00:23:47,233
were disguised as showers.

472
00:23:47,300 --> 00:23:49,600
People were given hooks 
to hang their clothes on,

473
00:23:49,666 --> 00:23:52,133
conned into thinking 
they'd be coming back.

474
00:23:52,200 --> 00:23:54,933
The Nazis didn't want a panic.

475
00:23:55,033 --> 00:23:58,633
Then the inmates piled 
into the "shower room."

476
00:23:58,700 --> 00:24:01,400
At Birkenau, 
the Nazis gassed and cremated

477
00:24:01,466 --> 00:24:04,466
thousands of people per day.

478
00:24:04,533 --> 00:24:07,200
The camp monument 
represents gravestones

479
00:24:07,266 --> 00:24:10,500
and the chimney 
of a crematorium.

480
00:24:10,566 --> 00:24:12,133
Plaques, 
in each of the languages

481
00:24:12,200 --> 00:24:13,566
spoken by camp victims,

482
00:24:13,633 --> 00:24:17,000
explain the mission 
of this memorial.

483
00:24:17,066 --> 00:24:22,066
♪

484
00:24:24,233 --> 00:24:26,600
Back in Kraków, 
tourists can learn about

485
00:24:26,666 --> 00:24:28,933
the next chapter 
of Poland's story --

486
00:24:29,033 --> 00:24:32,433
becoming a Soviet satellite 
after World War II.

487
00:24:33,733 --> 00:24:35,600
One entertaining 
yet informative way

488
00:24:35,666 --> 00:24:37,233
to get a peek at that

489
00:24:37,300 --> 00:24:38,933
is by looking 
through the windows

490
00:24:39,000 --> 00:24:41,833
of tiny communist-era cars. 
-Hop in.

491
00:24:41,900 --> 00:24:44,833
-And we'll do the same, 
visiting the communist-planned

492
00:24:44,900 --> 00:24:47,066
workers' town of Nowa Huta.

493
00:24:47,133 --> 00:24:49,866
Oh, I love this little car.

494
00:24:49,933 --> 00:24:52,766
-Don't get too comfortable. 
[ Laughter ]

495
00:24:52,833 --> 00:24:55,066
-And our guide is Cornelia.

496
00:24:55,133 --> 00:24:57,733
This is such a treat. 
Tell me about this little car.

497
00:24:57,800 --> 00:25:01,833
-So we are driving a famous 
Trabant from East Germany,

498
00:25:01,900 --> 00:25:05,266
a very popular family car 
in Poland.

499
00:25:05,333 --> 00:25:07,333
Also one of few to choose from,

500
00:25:07,400 --> 00:25:10,866
so people had no choice and they 
were happy with what they got.

501
00:25:10,933 --> 00:25:12,800
-Was it easy to get the car?

502
00:25:12,866 --> 00:25:17,266
-Not so easy. Like, 
you had to wait quite a lot.

503
00:25:17,333 --> 00:25:20,766
10, 15 years. 
Record in Poland is 20 years.

504
00:25:20,833 --> 00:25:22,966
♪

505
00:25:23,033 --> 00:25:24,766
-So tell me about 
this neighborhood.

506
00:25:24,833 --> 00:25:28,333
What is this? 
-We are in Nowa Huta district.

507
00:25:28,400 --> 00:25:31,966
It's a communist model city 
from the '50s.

508
00:25:32,033 --> 00:25:33,700
The only place like that 
in Poland, actually.

509
00:25:33,766 --> 00:25:36,566
So, it's supposed 
to be a showcase,

510
00:25:36,633 --> 00:25:38,300
kind of proving 
that communism works --

511
00:25:38,366 --> 00:25:41,766
people get jobs, apartments, 
and they're happy.

512
00:25:41,833 --> 00:25:45,633
-Nowa Huta was designed around 
a new enormous steel mill,

513
00:25:45,700 --> 00:25:47,200
the largest in Poland.

514
00:25:47,266 --> 00:25:49,066
Called the Lenin Steelworks,

515
00:25:49,133 --> 00:25:51,300
it employed 
nearly 40,000 workers

516
00:25:51,366 --> 00:25:54,833
who worked in 3 shifts, 
24 hours a day.

517
00:25:54,900 --> 00:25:57,066
It was intended 
as a high-production factory

518
00:25:57,133 --> 00:26:00,033
to show off the Soviet Bloc's 
industrial might.

519
00:26:00,100 --> 00:26:02,666
How many people lived 
in Nowa Huta?

520
00:26:02,733 --> 00:26:05,166
-The design was 
for 100,000 people,

521
00:26:05,233 --> 00:26:07,600
but it was like 
a worker's paradise.

522
00:26:07,666 --> 00:26:11,233
So most men had a job 
in one factory over here,

523
00:26:11,300 --> 00:26:15,566
steelworks, and families, women, 
you had jobs like services,

524
00:26:15,633 --> 00:26:18,100
hospitals, 
so it was self-sufficient town.

525
00:26:18,166 --> 00:26:22,800
-So why did Stalin want to give 
that plan to Kraków?

526
00:26:22,866 --> 00:26:25,100
-Well, one of the main reasons 
for sure

527
00:26:25,166 --> 00:26:28,666
were to punish 
the Intelligentsia,

528
00:26:28,733 --> 00:26:32,233
to kind of counterbalance 
this society in Kraków

529
00:26:32,300 --> 00:26:33,966
with a lot of churches, 
universities,

530
00:26:34,033 --> 00:26:36,466
with workers 
which before were farmers

531
00:26:36,533 --> 00:26:38,466
and had quite simple lives.

532
00:26:38,533 --> 00:26:42,466
-So punish Kraków for having 
culture, education and churches?

533
00:26:42,533 --> 00:26:44,700
-Yeah. 
-What was it like to actually

534
00:26:44,766 --> 00:26:47,600
live here in the '50s? 
-So after the war,

535
00:26:47,666 --> 00:26:50,600
this was a very attractive place 
for people to come.

536
00:26:50,666 --> 00:26:53,733
So they had jobs, 
they had apartments for free,

537
00:26:53,800 --> 00:26:57,133
and shops were even better 
than the center.

538
00:26:57,200 --> 00:27:00,600
They wanted to show people 
in Kraków that it's working.

539
00:27:00,666 --> 00:27:03,600
So after the war, 
that was a good place to live.

540
00:27:05,300 --> 00:27:09,200
-So what is the story of 
Nowa Huta after communism fell?

541
00:27:09,266 --> 00:27:12,133
-After communism fell, 
it was not the best place to be,

542
00:27:12,200 --> 00:27:15,133
especially that you had a job 
in the factory,

543
00:27:15,200 --> 00:27:17,000
which you probably lost 
in the '90s.

544
00:27:17,066 --> 00:27:19,766
But now within 30 years' time,

545
00:27:19,833 --> 00:27:22,433
this is a pretty nice place 
to live in.

546
00:27:22,500 --> 00:27:26,833
People are happy, people have 
beautiful space to live in,

547
00:27:26,900 --> 00:27:28,366
and they definitely prefer it

548
00:27:28,433 --> 00:27:30,066
more than being 
in the busy center.

549
00:27:30,133 --> 00:27:32,866
Probably one of the best 
districts to live in Kraków.

550
00:27:32,933 --> 00:27:34,600
-And the central plaza,

551
00:27:34,666 --> 00:27:36,766
reflecting the transition 
from communism

552
00:27:36,833 --> 00:27:38,466
to democracy and capitalism,

553
00:27:38,533 --> 00:27:40,800
is called Ronald Reagan Square.

554
00:27:40,866 --> 00:27:45,166
♪

555
00:27:45,233 --> 00:27:46,766
Back in the heart of Kraków,

556
00:27:46,833 --> 00:27:48,433
we're meeting up 
with Tomasz again

557
00:27:48,500 --> 00:27:50,266
to do some shopping 
at the market.

558
00:27:50,333 --> 00:27:53,433
It's a festival 
of fresh and local produce --

559
00:27:53,500 --> 00:27:54,900
berries...

560
00:27:54,966 --> 00:27:56,500
mushrooms...

561
00:27:56,566 --> 00:27:58,366
eggs right off the farm...

562
00:27:58,433 --> 00:28:00,600
fresh baked bread...

563
00:28:00,666 --> 00:28:02,333
mountain cheeses...

564
00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:05,900
sausages, 
and other rustic village food.

565
00:28:05,966 --> 00:28:09,900
Some of these humble family 
businesses go back generations.

566
00:28:09,966 --> 00:28:12,533
In a market like this, 
the community comes together

567
00:28:12,600 --> 00:28:14,900
shopping daily, 
taking full advantage

568
00:28:14,966 --> 00:28:16,933
of the fertility of this land.

569
00:28:18,033 --> 00:28:20,733
And as Tomasz will attempt 
to teach me

570
00:28:20,800 --> 00:28:23,000
how to cook a classic 
Polish dish,

571
00:28:23,066 --> 00:28:25,566
we're buying 
the necessary ingredients.

572
00:28:27,333 --> 00:28:30,000
-Alright. 
-Okay.

573
00:28:30,066 --> 00:28:32,000
-[ Indistinct ] 
-Thank you.

574
00:28:33,366 --> 00:28:34,833
-Flip it over 
onto the dough board.

575
00:28:34,900 --> 00:28:39,033
-In Tomasz's kitchen, I'm 
learning how to make pierogi.

576
00:28:39,100 --> 00:28:41,233
First, you knead 
the potato dough

577
00:28:41,300 --> 00:28:44,900
to just the right texture. 
-It's very relaxing.

578
00:28:44,966 --> 00:28:48,333
It's like going to a spa 
for your body and soul.

579
00:28:48,400 --> 00:28:51,200
-Is Grandma looking down? 
-I hope she is.

580
00:28:51,266 --> 00:28:52,933
-[ Chuckles ]

581
00:28:53,000 --> 00:28:56,066
Then you roll it out, 
flat as a Polish crepe...

582
00:28:56,133 --> 00:28:58,466
-You want it 
as thin as possible,

583
00:28:58,533 --> 00:29:00,933
because our dough 
is generally flavorless.

584
00:29:01,000 --> 00:29:05,000
What gives flavor to our dish 
is the filling and topping.

585
00:29:05,066 --> 00:29:07,100
-...and cut out small discs.

586
00:29:07,166 --> 00:29:10,266
-Beautiful. Mm-hmm. 
-Circle.

587
00:29:10,333 --> 00:29:11,933
Making cute little pockets,

588
00:29:12,000 --> 00:29:15,033
you tuck in the cheese, 
onion, and meat filling,

589
00:29:15,100 --> 00:29:18,466
then seal it water-tight 
around the edges.

590
00:29:18,533 --> 00:29:20,900
-[ Indistinct ] 
-There we go.

591
00:29:20,966 --> 00:29:23,766
-Your first pierogi. 
Congratulations!

592
00:29:25,366 --> 00:29:27,266
And we just wait 
for them to float.

593
00:29:27,333 --> 00:29:30,933
-After a short boiling bath, 
they're ready to eat.

594
00:29:32,666 --> 00:29:34,066
In true family style,

595
00:29:34,133 --> 00:29:36,566
we enjoy a little sunshine 
in the backyard

596
00:29:36,633 --> 00:29:38,533
and a classic Polish meal

597
00:29:38,600 --> 00:29:42,100
just like Grandma, 
or  Babcia,  used to make.

598
00:29:42,166 --> 00:29:45,033
Dziekuje Babcia. 
-Dziekuje Babcia,  yes.

599
00:29:45,100 --> 00:29:46,900
I hope she's proud.

600
00:29:49,100 --> 00:29:51,200
-Alright. Let's work off 
some of that pierogi

601
00:29:51,266 --> 00:29:55,300
with an evening walk 
and one last slice of Kraków.

602
00:29:55,366 --> 00:29:56,966
The Jewish quarter, Kazimierz,

603
00:29:57,033 --> 00:29:59,733
has transformed 
into a thriving night spot

604
00:29:59,800 --> 00:30:04,000
with trendy pubs and restaurants 
and an inviting energy.

605
00:30:04,066 --> 00:30:06,866
The round market hall 
is now a food circus

606
00:30:06,933 --> 00:30:10,233
popular with families 
and locals out on a cheap date,

607
00:30:10,300 --> 00:30:13,800
many munching  zapiekanka, 
the local pizza.

608
00:30:13,866 --> 00:30:15,933
♪

609
00:30:16,000 --> 00:30:18,000
And back at 
the Main Market Square,

610
00:30:18,066 --> 00:30:21,066
locals and visitors alike 
make the scene.

611
00:30:22,166 --> 00:30:23,666
Cafes are full...

612
00:30:25,566 --> 00:30:29,833
...the horse carriages 
add to the genteel atmosphere...

613
00:30:29,900 --> 00:30:32,866
and it's all about 
another great travel tip --

614
00:30:32,933 --> 00:30:34,833
savoring the moment.

615
00:30:35,833 --> 00:30:38,566
As the sun sets 
and the lights come on,

616
00:30:38,633 --> 00:30:42,733
Kraków takes on a timeless 
and romantic aura.

617
00:30:42,800 --> 00:30:45,266
♪

618
00:30:47,966 --> 00:30:51,266
About 150 miles north 
down the Vistula River

619
00:30:51,333 --> 00:30:54,033
lies the capital city, Warsaw --

620
00:30:54,100 --> 00:30:57,833
the heartbeat of 
contemporary Poland.

621
00:30:57,900 --> 00:31:00,200
Warsaw 
is an energetic metropolis

622
00:31:00,266 --> 00:31:03,433
offering a fascinating foray 
into urban Poland.

623
00:31:03,500 --> 00:31:08,566
It comes with both a hard-fought 
history and a modern vibrancy.

624
00:31:08,633 --> 00:31:11,366
Today, Warsaw -- 
pronounced "var-SHA-va" here --

625
00:31:11,433 --> 00:31:16,166
is Poland's biggest city with 
close to two million people.

626
00:31:16,233 --> 00:31:18,133
It's muscular and sprawling,

627
00:31:18,200 --> 00:31:21,300
broad boulevards 
and imposing buildings,

628
00:31:21,366 --> 00:31:24,366
and glittering 
glass office towers.

629
00:31:24,433 --> 00:31:28,033
Today's Warsaw is a thriving 
European center of business,

630
00:31:28,100 --> 00:31:31,933
banking, and politics 
with a cosmopolitan energy.

631
00:31:33,333 --> 00:31:36,333
Warsaw's glory days peaked 
between the World Wars,

632
00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:40,033
when it was one of Europe's 
most genteel capitals.

633
00:31:40,100 --> 00:31:43,433
That spirit survives along 
its rebuilt sweeping main drag,

634
00:31:43,500 --> 00:31:45,566
the sweeping Royal Way,

635
00:31:45,633 --> 00:31:50,533
with its elegant facades and its 
popularity with local strollers.

636
00:31:51,566 --> 00:31:53,233
Just being out and about,

637
00:31:53,300 --> 00:31:56,000
you feel the youthful confidence 
of this society.

638
00:31:57,466 --> 00:31:59,733
Stately hotels 
and government buildings --

639
00:31:59,800 --> 00:32:02,133
this is 
the president's residence --

640
00:32:02,200 --> 00:32:04,400
add to the Royal Way's grandeur.

641
00:32:06,233 --> 00:32:09,766
The Blikle bakery is every 
Pole's favorite for  paczki  --

642
00:32:09,833 --> 00:32:11,333
jelly donuts.

643
00:32:11,400 --> 00:32:16,200
♪

644
00:32:17,633 --> 00:32:19,433
When locals here 
"go out for doughnuts,"

645
00:32:19,500 --> 00:32:21,100
they go out for  paczki .

646
00:32:21,166 --> 00:32:22,666
My favorite is the classic.

647
00:32:22,733 --> 00:32:24,600
It's filled with wild rose jam.

648
00:32:26,633 --> 00:32:28,066
Mmm!

649
00:32:28,133 --> 00:32:30,333
But it's not 
all jelly doughnuts.

650
00:32:30,400 --> 00:32:33,300
Vast squares with memorials 
remind all

651
00:32:33,366 --> 00:32:35,733
of Poland's hard-fought history.

652
00:32:35,800 --> 00:32:38,166
Here, the eternal flame 
honors war dead

653
00:32:38,233 --> 00:32:41,933
with numbers 
almost incomprehensible.

654
00:32:42,000 --> 00:32:43,833
As the city 
was totally destroyed

655
00:32:43,900 --> 00:32:45,633
by Nazis in World War II,

656
00:32:45,700 --> 00:32:47,366
nearly everything 
you'll see --

657
00:32:47,433 --> 00:32:49,933
palaces, churches, 
and fountains --

658
00:32:50,000 --> 00:32:54,933
was painstakingly rebuilt 
from the rubble of 1945.

659
00:32:55,000 --> 00:32:58,300
I keep having to remind myself 
that, in this city,

660
00:32:58,366 --> 00:33:02,033
hardly a building standing is 
over 80 years old.

661
00:33:02,100 --> 00:33:05,466
Consequently, Warsaw is 
an architectural jumble,

662
00:33:05,533 --> 00:33:08,466
rebuilt both old and new.

663
00:33:08,533 --> 00:33:13,533
♪

664
00:33:15,233 --> 00:33:18,966
Warsaw's meticulously rebuilt 
Old Town is dominated

665
00:33:19,033 --> 00:33:23,400
by its meticulously rebuilt 
Royal Castle.

666
00:33:23,466 --> 00:33:25,833
The castle, 
a symbol of Polish sovereignty

667
00:33:25,900 --> 00:33:27,866
now for over 400 years,

668
00:33:27,933 --> 00:33:30,966
boasts some of this country's 
most lavish halls,

669
00:33:31,033 --> 00:33:35,100
gilded and glittering 
with chandeliers.

670
00:33:35,166 --> 00:33:38,033
The palace reflects 
how Poland was independent

671
00:33:38,100 --> 00:33:41,500
and strong for centuries, 
starting in the Middle Ages.

672
00:33:42,766 --> 00:33:45,000
When the home-grown dynasty 
died out,

673
00:33:45,066 --> 00:33:47,666
Poland's nobility elected 
foreign kings

674
00:33:47,733 --> 00:33:49,500
at gatherings like this.

675
00:33:51,133 --> 00:33:54,833
Many of those imported rulers 
squandered Poland's resources

676
00:33:54,900 --> 00:33:57,833
on their own selfish agendas.

677
00:33:57,900 --> 00:33:59,266
They weakened the country

678
00:33:59,333 --> 00:34:03,700
until it actually ceased 
to exist in 1795.

679
00:34:05,200 --> 00:34:08,700
For over 100 years, Poland 
disappeared from the map,

680
00:34:08,766 --> 00:34:11,033
partitioned by three empires --

681
00:34:11,100 --> 00:34:13,566
Prussia, Austria, and Russia.

682
00:34:13,633 --> 00:34:16,633
But the Poles succeeded 
in preserving their culture

683
00:34:16,700 --> 00:34:22,400
until their country was reborn 
in 1918 after WWI.

684
00:34:22,466 --> 00:34:24,166
Today, back out on the streets,

685
00:34:24,233 --> 00:34:27,700
the atmospheric Old Town 
entertains tourists.

686
00:34:27,766 --> 00:34:32,733
Here the 21st century seems 
to rule these cobbled lanes.

687
00:34:32,800 --> 00:34:34,466
The Market Square is another

688
00:34:34,533 --> 00:34:37,466
painstakingly reconstructed part 
of the old town.

689
00:34:37,533 --> 00:34:39,500
It's a great place 
to get something to eat

690
00:34:39,566 --> 00:34:43,000
or just relax and people watch.

691
00:34:43,066 --> 00:34:45,133
The mermaid -- 
a symbol of Warsaw --

692
00:34:45,200 --> 00:34:47,033
serenades the townspeople,

693
00:34:47,100 --> 00:34:50,533
still welcoming friends 
while keeping out foes.

694
00:34:50,600 --> 00:34:54,366
To me, this fountain, always 
energetic with kids playing,

695
00:34:54,433 --> 00:34:56,566
feels like a celebration 
of life...

696
00:34:56,633 --> 00:34:57,866
Polish  life.

697
00:35:00,333 --> 00:35:06,900
♪

698
00:35:06,966 --> 00:35:09,366
And Polish life comes 
with music,

699
00:35:09,433 --> 00:35:13,433
especially the genius 
of favorite son, Frédéric 
Chopin.

700
00:35:13,500 --> 00:35:17,600
On summer Sundays, 
Chopin concerts pack the park.

701
00:35:17,666 --> 00:35:20,633
It's an expression of this 
city's pride in its culture

702
00:35:20,700 --> 00:35:23,700
and in an enduring appetite 
for community.

703
00:35:23,766 --> 00:35:30,833
♪

704
00:35:30,900 --> 00:35:35,066
Poland's great Romantic composer 
sits under a willow tree.

705
00:35:36,400 --> 00:35:39,033
Though he lived and worked 
mostly in Paris,

706
00:35:39,100 --> 00:35:42,766
locals cherish the thought 
that Chopin's inspiration

707
00:35:42,833 --> 00:35:46,033
came from memories of the breeze 
blowing through the willow trees

708
00:35:46,100 --> 00:35:48,633
of his native land, Poland.

709
00:35:48,700 --> 00:35:55,966
♪

710
00:35:56,033 --> 00:36:00,700
♪

711
00:36:03,333 --> 00:36:07,600
Warsaw museums work hard to 
explain its complicated history,

712
00:36:07,666 --> 00:36:11,066
and much of Poland's story 
is a Jewish story.

713
00:36:11,133 --> 00:36:13,766
The Museum of the History 
of Polish Jews

714
00:36:13,833 --> 00:36:18,366
celebrates a thousand years 
of Jews living in Poland.

715
00:36:18,433 --> 00:36:21,566
A winding route traces 
their experience.

716
00:36:21,633 --> 00:36:23,600
♪

717
00:36:23,666 --> 00:36:26,100
With the relative tolerance 
of medieval kings,

718
00:36:26,166 --> 00:36:29,666
Jews became established 
in Polish society.

719
00:36:29,733 --> 00:36:32,066
But because they still suffered 
through pogroms

720
00:36:32,133 --> 00:36:36,100
and other persecution, 
few actual artifacts survive.

721
00:36:37,400 --> 00:36:40,666
Many Jews lived 
in market towns called shtetls,

722
00:36:40,733 --> 00:36:44,400
with richly decorated 
wooden synagogues.

723
00:36:44,466 --> 00:36:47,200
Above the traditional 
elevated prayer platform

724
00:36:47,266 --> 00:36:48,800
is a colorful ceiling,

725
00:36:48,866 --> 00:36:52,600
a humble canopy rich 
with symbolism.

726
00:36:52,666 --> 00:36:55,933
When Poland regained its 
independence after World War I,

727
00:36:56,000 --> 00:36:57,866
Jewish culture blossomed,

728
00:36:57,933 --> 00:37:00,866
especially in the 1920s 
when, for the first time,

729
00:37:00,933 --> 00:37:04,566
Jews had full citizenship 
and voting rights.

730
00:37:04,633 --> 00:37:08,466
And Warsaw was the biggest 
Jewish city in Europe.

731
00:37:08,533 --> 00:37:10,666
[ Explosions ]

732
00:37:10,733 --> 00:37:14,000
Tragically, this flourishing 
of Jewish culture was crushed

733
00:37:14,066 --> 00:37:18,166
when Fascist Germany 
invaded in 1939.

734
00:37:18,233 --> 00:37:21,733
Jews were then corralled 
into a miserable ghetto...

735
00:37:21,800 --> 00:37:23,800
subjected 
to unlivable conditions

736
00:37:23,866 --> 00:37:27,666
before being shipped off 
to Nazi death camps and killed.

737
00:37:27,733 --> 00:37:35,300
♪

738
00:37:35,366 --> 00:37:37,633
A monument captures 
the desperation

739
00:37:37,700 --> 00:37:39,900
of the ghetto's last days.

740
00:37:41,333 --> 00:37:43,866
Realizing they were 
all doomed anyway,

741
00:37:43,933 --> 00:37:45,633
the haggard and hungry 
who remained

742
00:37:45,700 --> 00:37:48,366
staged a desperate uprising.

743
00:37:48,433 --> 00:37:50,600
Nearly all were killed.

744
00:37:52,466 --> 00:37:54,800
This was just one city's 
experience

745
00:37:54,866 --> 00:37:57,166
in a Europe-wide Holocaust.

746
00:37:57,233 --> 00:37:59,266
In this attempted genocide,

747
00:37:59,333 --> 00:38:02,533
Hitler tried to rid the world 
of Jewish people.

748
00:38:02,600 --> 00:38:07,333
Of the six million he killed, 
half died here in Poland.

749
00:38:07,400 --> 00:38:09,533
♪

750
00:38:09,600 --> 00:38:11,966
With its Jewish population 
decimated,

751
00:38:12,033 --> 00:38:13,400
Warsaw's next chapter

752
00:38:13,466 --> 00:38:16,533
was a second 
valiant but doomed uprising --

753
00:38:16,600 --> 00:38:19,866
this time by the non-Jewish 
Poles who remained.

754
00:38:21,033 --> 00:38:24,133
Under Nazi occupation, 
Poles had formed the biggest

755
00:38:24,200 --> 00:38:26,933
underground resistance army 
in history.

756
00:38:28,800 --> 00:38:31,133
Late in the war, 
as the Nazis began to falter

757
00:38:31,200 --> 00:38:32,700
and the Soviets advanced,

758
00:38:32,766 --> 00:38:36,000
Poland's Home Army mobilized 
to liberate the country.

759
00:38:36,066 --> 00:38:38,133
♪

760
00:38:38,200 --> 00:38:39,900
But the Nazis regrouped

761
00:38:39,966 --> 00:38:43,500
and brutally put down 
the Warsaw Uprising.

762
00:38:43,566 --> 00:38:45,233
Hitler then ordered that Warsaw

763
00:38:45,300 --> 00:38:48,433
be "destroyed 
to its foundations."

764
00:38:48,500 --> 00:38:51,433
♪

765
00:38:51,500 --> 00:38:53,700
The Soviet Army sat here, 
across the river,

766
00:38:53,766 --> 00:38:55,400
and watched and waited.

767
00:38:55,466 --> 00:38:57,433
Finally, 
when the Germans were gone,

768
00:38:57,500 --> 00:39:00,700
the Russians marched in 
to claim the wasteland

769
00:39:00,766 --> 00:39:02,300
that was once Warsaw,

770
00:39:02,366 --> 00:39:05,900
kicking off over four decades 
of communist rule.

771
00:39:07,300 --> 00:39:10,166
Like a phoenix, this city 
has risen from the ashes.

772
00:39:10,233 --> 00:39:12,366
And today, Warsaw is filled

773
00:39:12,433 --> 00:39:14,400
with a happy 
and youthful populace

774
00:39:14,466 --> 00:39:17,333
that has no living memory 
of those hard times.

775
00:39:17,400 --> 00:39:20,866
♪

776
00:39:20,933 --> 00:39:23,833
Today's Warsaw's 
is hip and trendy.

777
00:39:23,900 --> 00:39:27,500
Hulking old buildings -- no 
longer fascist or communist --

778
00:39:27,566 --> 00:39:30,900
are filled with a rainbow 
of global food choices.

779
00:39:30,966 --> 00:39:33,300
♪

780
00:39:33,366 --> 00:39:36,900
"Post-industrial" architecture 
is all the rage.

781
00:39:38,100 --> 00:39:40,900
Old red-brick factories 
and power plants

782
00:39:40,966 --> 00:39:44,166
have been transformed 
into convivial hubs for dining,

783
00:39:44,233 --> 00:39:46,233
drinking, and shopping.

784
00:39:46,300 --> 00:39:48,600
♪

785
00:39:48,666 --> 00:39:49,866
I'm joined by my friend

786
00:39:49,933 --> 00:39:51,966
and fellow guidebook author, 
Cameron Hewitt

787
00:39:52,033 --> 00:39:53,966
and the show's producer, 
Simon Griffith,

788
00:39:54,033 --> 00:39:58,566
at Bibenda for a taste 
of Warsaw's urbane foodie scene.

789
00:39:58,633 --> 00:40:01,800
This trendy restaurant 
specializes in craft cocktails

790
00:40:01,866 --> 00:40:05,066
and Polish fusion cuisine.

791
00:40:05,133 --> 00:40:07,166
The menu takes fresh 
local ingredients

792
00:40:07,233 --> 00:40:09,800
like heirloom tomatoes 
and beets

793
00:40:09,866 --> 00:40:13,166
and gives them 
an international spin --

794
00:40:13,233 --> 00:40:14,966
padrón peppers...

795
00:40:15,033 --> 00:40:16,500
falafel...

796
00:40:16,566 --> 00:40:18,366
pumpkin dumplings...

797
00:40:18,433 --> 00:40:21,700
all washed down 
with a good Spanish wine.

798
00:40:21,766 --> 00:40:24,133
Whether Polish or international,

799
00:40:24,200 --> 00:40:27,200
you can see that we thought 
everything was delicious.

800
00:40:27,266 --> 00:40:29,866
It's a reminder of 
how cosmopolitan Warsaw

801
00:40:29,933 --> 00:40:34,666
respects Polish tradition while 
also embracing a global future.

802
00:40:34,733 --> 00:40:38,933
I can't think of a better way to 
enjoy our last night in Warsaw.

803
00:40:40,966 --> 00:40:43,566
♪

804
00:40:43,633 --> 00:40:46,100
Heading north from Warsaw 
through the rolling farmland

805
00:40:46,166 --> 00:40:49,233
of the Polish countryside, 
we reach a small-town break

806
00:40:49,300 --> 00:40:52,200
from our big city itinerary, 
Torun.

807
00:40:53,700 --> 00:40:55,733
Torun feels affluent.

808
00:40:55,800 --> 00:40:58,733
In the Middle Ages, it was part 
of the Hanseatic League,

809
00:40:58,800 --> 00:41:02,966
a trade union of northern 
European merchant cities.

810
00:41:03,033 --> 00:41:04,633
Like much of northern Poland,

811
00:41:04,700 --> 00:41:08,400
many of its buildings 
are finely crafted of red brick.

812
00:41:08,466 --> 00:41:10,733
The city has 
an easygoing ambiance

813
00:41:10,800 --> 00:41:13,366
that comes with 
the heavenly scent of...

814
00:41:13,433 --> 00:41:15,666
gingerbread.

815
00:41:15,733 --> 00:41:18,566
Every Pole knows Torun 
for two reasons --

816
00:41:18,633 --> 00:41:21,366
Copernicus and gingerbread.

817
00:41:21,433 --> 00:41:24,300
♪

818
00:41:24,366 --> 00:41:26,900
This was the birthplace 
of the astronomer Copernicus,

819
00:41:26,966 --> 00:41:28,900
who, 500 years ago, established

820
00:41:28,966 --> 00:41:31,366
that the Earth revolves 
around the Sun.

821
00:41:31,433 --> 00:41:35,500
♪

822
00:41:35,566 --> 00:41:38,400
But today, 
here in Torun anyway,

823
00:41:38,466 --> 00:41:42,666
a lot revolves around this -- 
gingerbread.

824
00:41:42,733 --> 00:41:47,333
This recreated old bakery is 
a favorite for field trips.

825
00:41:47,400 --> 00:41:49,666
Costumed guides teach 
young students how,

826
00:41:49,733 --> 00:41:51,133
in the Middle Ages,

827
00:41:51,200 --> 00:41:54,066
Torun's trading connections 
gave local bakers access

828
00:41:54,133 --> 00:41:56,333
to exotic spices --

829
00:41:56,400 --> 00:41:59,733
spices like ginger, 
cinnamon, and clove --

830
00:41:59,800 --> 00:42:02,666
and how the honey in the dough 
was a natural preservative,

831
00:42:02,733 --> 00:42:05,600
allowing it to be traded 
far and wide.

832
00:42:05,666 --> 00:42:07,666
♪

833
00:42:07,733 --> 00:42:10,300
Then the children get to 
actually roll the dough...

834
00:42:10,366 --> 00:42:12,733
♪

835
00:42:12,800 --> 00:42:15,100
...press it into 
traditional molds...

836
00:42:16,400 --> 00:42:20,433
...and pop their little 
creations into the oven.

837
00:42:20,500 --> 00:42:22,966
Local gingerbread shops 
let you mix-and-match

838
00:42:23,033 --> 00:42:24,766
a variety of tasty treats,

839
00:42:24,833 --> 00:42:28,800
with any combination of 
jams, glazes, and chocolate.

840
00:42:28,866 --> 00:42:32,300
For locals, 
the word is actually a verb --

841
00:42:32,366 --> 00:42:36,266
if you've eaten too much, 
you have "gingerbreaded."

842
00:42:36,333 --> 00:42:38,933
♪

843
00:42:40,466 --> 00:42:42,933
I think this will get me 
to our next stop.

844
00:42:44,800 --> 00:42:47,166
Further north 
is the Malbork Castle,

845
00:42:47,233 --> 00:42:49,600
another red-brick masterpiece.

846
00:42:49,666 --> 00:42:52,100
Called the biggest brick castle 
in the world,

847
00:42:52,166 --> 00:42:54,400
this was the 14th century 
headquarters

848
00:42:54,466 --> 00:42:56,233
of the Teutonic Knights.

849
00:42:56,300 --> 00:42:59,466
These Germanic 
Crusaders-turned-mercenaries

850
00:42:59,533 --> 00:43:01,533
were hired here 
by a Christian duke

851
00:43:01,600 --> 00:43:03,800
to convert the local pagans.

852
00:43:05,166 --> 00:43:08,733
Job done, the Teutonic Knights 
decided they liked it here.

853
00:43:08,800 --> 00:43:11,166
So they stuck around, 
built this castle,

854
00:43:11,233 --> 00:43:14,400
and dominated northern Poland 
for over a century.

855
00:43:14,466 --> 00:43:17,866
Malbork Castle was essentially 
a fortified monastery --

856
00:43:17,933 --> 00:43:22,366
home to monks, knights, and 
their leader, the Grand Master.

857
00:43:23,433 --> 00:43:27,333
Malbork's fortifications 
are formidable indeed.

858
00:43:27,400 --> 00:43:29,966
The complex was surrounded 
by an imposing moat

859
00:43:30,033 --> 00:43:32,733
and a mighty brick wall.

860
00:43:32,800 --> 00:43:37,100
The heavy portcullis stopped 
anyone who breached the moat.

861
00:43:37,166 --> 00:43:42,266
Then, from slits up above, 
archers could rain down arrows.

862
00:43:42,333 --> 00:43:44,933
And the inner drawbridge made 
the core of the castle

863
00:43:45,000 --> 00:43:48,433
an impenetrable last refuge.

864
00:43:48,500 --> 00:43:50,433
While knights lived 
in the outer castle,

865
00:43:50,500 --> 00:43:52,600
monks lived in the inner castle.

866
00:43:54,133 --> 00:43:57,066
The Grand Master's lavish 
and well-fortified quarters

867
00:43:57,133 --> 00:43:58,933
with their fan-vaulted 
assembly rooms

868
00:43:59,000 --> 00:44:00,700
and expansive dining halls

869
00:44:00,766 --> 00:44:03,266
were the capital 
of those Teutonic Knights,

870
00:44:03,333 --> 00:44:05,766
from where they administered 
their domain.

871
00:44:08,200 --> 00:44:09,800
The main attractions 
of Poland --

872
00:44:09,866 --> 00:44:12,533
Kraków and most of what 
we're seeing in this program --

873
00:44:12,600 --> 00:44:14,966
are connected 
by the Vistula River...

874
00:44:15,033 --> 00:44:16,800
the commercial 
and cultural thread

875
00:44:16,866 --> 00:44:18,566
that has 
tied this nation together

876
00:44:18,633 --> 00:44:20,666
since its earliest days.

877
00:44:20,733 --> 00:44:24,166
And we're just an hour's 
drive from our last stop.

878
00:44:24,233 --> 00:44:27,300
Gdansk, historically 
Poland's leading port,

879
00:44:27,366 --> 00:44:31,366
sits near where the Vistula 
meets the Baltic Sea.

880
00:44:31,433 --> 00:44:33,833
For a thousand years, 
a cultural crossroads

881
00:44:33,900 --> 00:44:37,200
with a rich maritime history, 
architecturally it feels

882
00:44:37,266 --> 00:44:40,966
more Scandinavian or Dutch 
than Polish.

883
00:44:41,033 --> 00:44:42,933
During its medieval golden age,

884
00:44:43,000 --> 00:44:47,233
Gdansk prospered as a key member 
of the Hanseatic League.

885
00:44:48,433 --> 00:44:50,600
The Hanseatic League 
was an association of

886
00:44:50,666 --> 00:44:53,566
over 100 cities and ports 
across Northern Europe.

887
00:44:53,633 --> 00:44:56,900
Its mission -- 
to protect and promote trade.

888
00:44:56,966 --> 00:44:59,766
Busy hunting down pirates, 
building light houses,

889
00:44:59,833 --> 00:45:02,500
and boycotting ports 
that didn't join the club,

890
00:45:02,566 --> 00:45:05,266
it dominated the economy 
and politics in the region

891
00:45:05,333 --> 00:45:07,100
through the late Middle Ages.

892
00:45:07,166 --> 00:45:10,100
In a way, the Hanseatic League 
was a precursor

893
00:45:10,166 --> 00:45:11,566
to the European Union.

894
00:45:11,633 --> 00:45:14,700
Its motto, 
"All power to the merchants."

895
00:45:15,866 --> 00:45:17,833
Along the embankment 
is a structure

896
00:45:17,900 --> 00:45:19,700
those merchants 
put to good use --

897
00:45:19,766 --> 00:45:23,333
a hulking 15th century crane.

898
00:45:23,400 --> 00:45:27,000
Back then, this entire river 
could be filled, bank to bank,

899
00:45:27,066 --> 00:45:29,133
with trading vessels.

900
00:45:29,200 --> 00:45:32,000
Maritime trade 
from distant lands made Gdansk

901
00:45:32,066 --> 00:45:34,233
both prosperous and tolerant.

902
00:45:34,300 --> 00:45:37,133
It attracted merchants 
from all over Europe

903
00:45:37,200 --> 00:45:40,466
who brought with them 
elements of their home cultures.

904
00:45:40,533 --> 00:45:43,266
These were then woven 
into the tapestry of the city,

905
00:45:43,333 --> 00:45:45,900
reflected in 
its eclectic architecture.

906
00:45:45,966 --> 00:45:47,966
[ Bells chiming ]

907
00:45:48,033 --> 00:45:50,633
Overhead, the Town Hall tower 
holds a carillon

908
00:45:50,700 --> 00:45:53,900
that marks each hour 
with a cheerful tune.

909
00:45:53,966 --> 00:46:02,633
♪

910
00:46:02,700 --> 00:46:05,766
To better understand Gdansk, 
we're joined by my friend

911
00:46:05,833 --> 00:46:10,366
and fellow tour guide 
Agnieszka Syroka.

912
00:46:10,433 --> 00:46:13,100
Our first stop is the Town Hall.

913
00:46:13,166 --> 00:46:15,900
♪

914
00:46:15,966 --> 00:46:20,466
-So, the city was governed 
from this exact room here.

915
00:46:20,533 --> 00:46:22,866
-And the art is -- 
There's a lot of art here.

916
00:46:22,933 --> 00:46:24,900
-Yeah, that's amazing, isn't it?

917
00:46:24,966 --> 00:46:26,466
In the middle of the vaulting,

918
00:46:26,533 --> 00:46:30,833
have a look at this 
magnificent painting from 1608.

919
00:46:30,900 --> 00:46:33,400
♪

920
00:46:33,466 --> 00:46:35,566
The Vistula River starts 
over there in the mountains.

921
00:46:35,633 --> 00:46:39,600
Look at these barges 
filled with the grain

922
00:46:39,666 --> 00:46:41,500
from all over 
the Kingdom of Poland.

923
00:46:41,566 --> 00:46:45,966
So all the goods were shipped 
from Gdansk

924
00:46:46,033 --> 00:46:49,000
down the Vistula River 
to the Baltic Sea.

925
00:46:49,066 --> 00:46:50,833
They are taking that grain,

926
00:46:50,900 --> 00:46:53,366
and that grain goes 
all over Western Europe.

927
00:46:53,433 --> 00:46:55,333
And look, deals,

928
00:46:55,400 --> 00:46:58,133
businesses made here 
in front of the Artus Court.

929
00:46:58,200 --> 00:47:01,166
-These would be traders 
from all over Northern Europe,

930
00:47:01,233 --> 00:47:02,333
part of the Hanseatic League

931
00:47:02,400 --> 00:47:03,733
here making a deal, 
shaking hands.

932
00:47:03,800 --> 00:47:07,266
-Indeed, like 1600 stock market.

933
00:47:07,333 --> 00:47:08,733
-And God's hand.

934
00:47:08,800 --> 00:47:11,566
So, He's holding not the church, 
but the Town Hall.

935
00:47:11,633 --> 00:47:15,066
-Exactly. Because Gdansk was 
so multicultural

936
00:47:15,133 --> 00:47:17,333
and multi-religious 
throughout centuries,

937
00:47:17,400 --> 00:47:19,866
it really never mattered 
what religion you are,

938
00:47:19,933 --> 00:47:23,400
but how much money you can bring 
to the city doing your business.

939
00:47:23,466 --> 00:47:25,466
-The Guildhall is next door.

940
00:47:25,533 --> 00:47:27,500
This is a magnificent room.

941
00:47:27,566 --> 00:47:29,433
-It's a beautiful guild house,

942
00:47:29,500 --> 00:47:33,266
a great example 
of a great social space

943
00:47:33,333 --> 00:47:36,333
where guilds, 
medieval merchant groups, met.

944
00:47:36,400 --> 00:47:38,600
-Okay, so this is 
like a networking.

945
00:47:38,666 --> 00:47:42,566
-Exactly, exactly. 
Exclusive social club.

946
00:47:42,633 --> 00:47:44,233
Merchants from all over Europe

947
00:47:44,300 --> 00:47:46,133
were coming here 
to do their business.

948
00:47:46,200 --> 00:47:49,866
Each arch belonged to one guild.

949
00:47:49,933 --> 00:47:54,866
Imagine in front of each arch 
there was goldsmith guild,

950
00:47:54,933 --> 00:47:57,366
beer guild, amber guild.

951
00:47:57,433 --> 00:47:58,800
They were very competitive.

952
00:47:58,866 --> 00:48:00,500
They were coming here 
to do their business.

953
00:48:00,566 --> 00:48:02,133
-So that the traders from Lübeck

954
00:48:02,200 --> 00:48:04,133
would meet the traders 
from Amsterdam

955
00:48:04,200 --> 00:48:06,266
and from Riga coming together.

956
00:48:06,333 --> 00:48:09,300
-And then buying grain, 
timber, coal,

957
00:48:09,366 --> 00:48:12,133
and exporting that 
all over Europe.

958
00:48:14,966 --> 00:48:19,133
-The city is ornamented 
with fine red-brick buildings.

959
00:48:19,200 --> 00:48:21,533
That's because here 
in the marshy north of Poland,

960
00:48:21,600 --> 00:48:24,100
stone is scarce.

961
00:48:24,166 --> 00:48:26,200
Grand buildings 
like this old mill

962
00:48:26,266 --> 00:48:29,166
elevate bricklaying 
to an art form.

963
00:48:29,233 --> 00:48:32,233
The old Market Hall has long 
provided an impressive place

964
00:48:32,300 --> 00:48:35,400
for farmers to sell 
their produce.

965
00:48:35,466 --> 00:48:38,633
The train station gives visitors 
a red-brick welcome,

966
00:48:38,700 --> 00:48:40,700
and even 
the modern shopping malls

967
00:48:40,766 --> 00:48:42,933
carry on this love of brick.

968
00:48:44,266 --> 00:48:47,933
And rising high above everything 
is St. Mary's Church,

969
00:48:48,000 --> 00:48:51,300
one of the biggest 
brick churches anywhere.

970
00:48:51,366 --> 00:48:54,433
To be both tall and stable 
without the strength of stone,

971
00:48:54,500 --> 00:48:58,433
it was fortified 
with beefy brick buttresses.

972
00:48:58,500 --> 00:49:01,400
Stepping inside, you're struck 
by the stark, austere,

973
00:49:01,466 --> 00:49:04,000
and very white interior.

974
00:49:04,066 --> 00:49:06,300
This is a remarkable church.

975
00:49:06,366 --> 00:49:09,133
-Mary's Church was built 
before Reformation.

976
00:49:09,200 --> 00:49:11,800
Look at the beautiful 
triptych altar,

977
00:49:11,866 --> 00:49:13,800
coronation of St. Virgin Mary.

978
00:49:13,866 --> 00:49:16,433
-So the altar piece is 
from before the Reformation.

979
00:49:16,500 --> 00:49:17,633
-Exactly.

980
00:49:17,700 --> 00:49:19,700
And then the city 
converted to Protestant.

981
00:49:19,766 --> 00:49:22,700
And what was really important 
was the pulpit,

982
00:49:22,766 --> 00:49:24,333
because of the Word of God,

983
00:49:24,400 --> 00:49:29,566
and music coming from 
magnificent organ.

984
00:49:29,633 --> 00:49:32,166
-Look at that pipe organ.

985
00:49:32,233 --> 00:49:34,133
This is like a pavement 
of tombstones.

986
00:49:34,200 --> 00:49:40,600
-Exactly. 500 gravestones of the 
wealthiest merchants of Gdansk

987
00:49:40,666 --> 00:49:43,500
who wanted to be buried here 
in their parish church.

988
00:49:43,566 --> 00:49:45,133
And if not buried in a tomb,

989
00:49:45,200 --> 00:49:46,700
you could commemorate 
your family

990
00:49:46,766 --> 00:49:48,366
on the wall with an epitaph.

991
00:49:48,433 --> 00:49:52,333
♪

992
00:49:52,400 --> 00:49:53,866
-In the shadow of the church,

993
00:49:53,933 --> 00:49:57,933
atmospheric Mariacka Street is 
lined with traditional porches,

994
00:49:58,000 --> 00:50:01,333
clever gargoyles, and 
vendors selling the prized amber

995
00:50:01,400 --> 00:50:03,700
that the Baltic Coast is 
so famous for.

996
00:50:03,766 --> 00:50:10,533
♪

997
00:50:10,600 --> 00:50:12,333
For amber as high art,

998
00:50:12,400 --> 00:50:15,266
the striking Amber Museum 
fills an old mill

999
00:50:15,333 --> 00:50:19,333
with precious deposits 
of this fossilized tree sap.

1000
00:50:19,400 --> 00:50:22,000
Much of the world's amber 
comes from Poland.

1001
00:50:22,066 --> 00:50:24,800
Amber, which can be 
tens of millions of years old,

1002
00:50:24,866 --> 00:50:27,833
comes in shades of white, 
yellow, and brown.

1003
00:50:29,033 --> 00:50:31,533
It's a favorite medium 
of local artisans

1004
00:50:31,600 --> 00:50:34,100
who create exquisite items

1005
00:50:34,166 --> 00:50:36,866
from an organically 
sculptured candelabra,

1006
00:50:36,933 --> 00:50:40,800
to a chessboard that 
would mesmerize a grand master.

1007
00:50:40,866 --> 00:50:44,200
There's an exquisite 
miniature storage chest,

1008
00:50:44,266 --> 00:50:48,300
and even furniture such 
as this gorgeous writing desk.

1009
00:50:48,366 --> 00:50:53,766
♪

1010
00:50:53,833 --> 00:50:57,800
Gdansk lived its most dramatic 
moments in the 20th century.

1011
00:50:57,866 --> 00:51:01,500
World War II began right here 
in 1939, when Hitler invaded.

1012
00:51:01,566 --> 00:51:03,600
And those cranes mark 
the shipyard

1013
00:51:03,666 --> 00:51:05,900
where, 40 years later in 1980,

1014
00:51:05,966 --> 00:51:09,000
the Soviet Bloc 
finally began to crack.

1015
00:51:09,066 --> 00:51:10,766
During communist times,

1016
00:51:10,833 --> 00:51:14,166
Gdansk was home 
to the massive Lenin Shipyard.

1017
00:51:14,233 --> 00:51:18,133
In 1980, after decades 
of frustrations and struggles,

1018
00:51:18,200 --> 00:51:20,466
shipyard workers went on strike.

1019
00:51:22,033 --> 00:51:25,666
They created a trade union 
called Solidarity.

1020
00:51:25,733 --> 00:51:28,100
Locking themselves 
inside the shipyard,

1021
00:51:28,166 --> 00:51:29,433
they refused to work

1022
00:51:29,500 --> 00:51:33,100
and scrawled their list 
of 21 demands on plywood.

1023
00:51:34,566 --> 00:51:37,300
A fired shipyard electrician, 
Lech Walesa,

1024
00:51:37,366 --> 00:51:38,866
heard news of the strike.

1025
00:51:38,933 --> 00:51:41,266
He came here and 
literally climbed over the wall

1026
00:51:41,333 --> 00:51:43,433
to get inside 
and join his comrades.

1027
00:51:43,500 --> 00:51:46,166
The strike had its leader.

1028
00:51:46,233 --> 00:51:48,233
The European Solidarity Center,

1029
00:51:48,300 --> 00:51:50,600
with its industrial-strength 
architecture

1030
00:51:50,666 --> 00:51:52,133
and inspiring exhibits,

1031
00:51:52,200 --> 00:51:55,966
tells the story 
both vividly and proudly.

1032
00:51:56,033 --> 00:51:59,700
For 18 days, 17,000 workers --

1033
00:51:59,766 --> 00:52:02,033
welders, machinists, 
and steel-workers --

1034
00:52:02,100 --> 00:52:04,466
stood strong.

1035
00:52:04,533 --> 00:52:06,733
Their only connection 
to the outside world

1036
00:52:06,800 --> 00:52:08,533
was to come to the gate.

1037
00:52:08,600 --> 00:52:11,200
There they'd pass messages 
to family members

1038
00:52:11,266 --> 00:52:14,700
and receive food, supplies, 
and encouragement.

1039
00:52:14,766 --> 00:52:17,266
♪

1040
00:52:17,333 --> 00:52:20,200
The strikers were hungry, 
tired, and scared,

1041
00:52:20,266 --> 00:52:22,933
but they were both inspired 
and emboldened

1042
00:52:23,000 --> 00:52:26,600
by the new Polish pope, 
John Paul II.

1043
00:52:26,666 --> 00:52:29,100
Finally, the communist 
authorities gave in

1044
00:52:29,166 --> 00:52:31,100
and legalized the union.

1045
00:52:31,166 --> 00:52:33,966
Half of the nation's workforce 
joined Solidarity,

1046
00:52:34,033 --> 00:52:36,400
and change was in the air.

1047
00:52:37,466 --> 00:52:39,833
But then, 
after 16 hopeful months,

1048
00:52:39,900 --> 00:52:43,033
Polish authorities, 
fearful of Soviet intervention,

1049
00:52:43,100 --> 00:52:45,166
declared martial law.

1050
00:52:45,233 --> 00:52:47,966
Tanks rumbled through 
the snowy streets of Poland,

1051
00:52:48,033 --> 00:52:51,666
and the riot police 
cracked down on dissidents.

1052
00:52:51,733 --> 00:52:55,400
Solidarity went underground, 
yet gained momentum.

1053
00:52:56,700 --> 00:53:00,733
In 1989, the Round Table Talks 
brought about elections.

1054
00:53:00,800 --> 00:53:01,866
The result?

1055
00:53:01,933 --> 00:53:04,266
Solidarity, 
now a political party,

1056
00:53:04,333 --> 00:53:06,900
won every available seat.

1057
00:53:06,966 --> 00:53:08,800
♪

1058
00:53:08,866 --> 00:53:12,533
These first cracks in 
the Eastern Bloc spread quickly.

1059
00:53:12,600 --> 00:53:15,000
Within a few months, 
the Berlin Wall fell,

1060
00:53:15,066 --> 00:53:16,433
borders opened up,

1061
00:53:16,500 --> 00:53:19,366
communist regimes voted 
themselves out of existence,

1062
00:53:19,433 --> 00:53:21,266
and Lech Walesa was elected

1063
00:53:21,333 --> 00:53:25,266
the first post-communist 
president of Poland.

1064
00:53:25,333 --> 00:53:28,433
Today, Gdansk, 
mindful of its history,

1065
00:53:28,500 --> 00:53:31,066
is a forward-looking community.

1066
00:53:31,133 --> 00:53:34,133
Facing the skyline 
of old Gdansk across the river

1067
00:53:34,200 --> 00:53:35,666
is a modern development.

1068
00:53:37,200 --> 00:53:40,066
Only recently rebuilt 
from WWII bombings,

1069
00:53:40,133 --> 00:53:43,600
it echoes 
the historic roof lines.

1070
00:53:43,666 --> 00:53:47,833
With its 21st century affluence, 
Gdansk provides its people

1071
00:53:47,900 --> 00:53:50,800
a stylish boardwalk 
for good living.

1072
00:53:50,866 --> 00:53:53,333
Strolling here, 
you feel the promise

1073
00:53:53,400 --> 00:53:55,766
of a bright Polish future.

1074
00:53:55,833 --> 00:53:59,400
♪

1075
00:53:59,466 --> 00:54:01,400
The resilience 
of Poland's culture

1076
00:54:01,466 --> 00:54:04,000
and the warmth of its people 
inspire me.

1077
00:54:04,066 --> 00:54:06,566
And learning from 
this country's hard history,

1078
00:54:06,633 --> 00:54:09,833
I'm reminded that freedom, 
peace, and prosperity

1079
00:54:09,900 --> 00:54:11,100
are hard-earned

1080
00:54:11,166 --> 00:54:13,400
and that we have lots 
to be thankful for.

1081
00:54:13,466 --> 00:54:14,766
I hope you've enjoyed our look

1082
00:54:14,833 --> 00:54:16,833
at perhaps Europe's 
most underrated

1083
00:54:16,900 --> 00:54:18,366
and surprising country.

1084
00:54:18,433 --> 00:54:19,700
I'm Rick Steves.

1085
00:54:19,766 --> 00:54:22,366
Until next time, 
keep on traveling!

1086
00:54:24,766 --> 00:54:27,166
-It's filled with 
wild rose jam.

1087
00:54:27,233 --> 00:54:29,066
♪

1088
00:54:29,133 --> 00:54:30,700
-[ Chuckles ] 
-Whoa!

1089
00:54:30,766 --> 00:54:32,700
It's a colorful, 
historic port city

1090
00:54:32,766 --> 00:54:35,533
with a dramatic 
20th century story.

1091
00:54:35,600 --> 00:54:37,033
[ Chuckles ]

1092
00:54:37,100 --> 00:54:40,633
This is a -- This -- 
[ Both chuckle ]

1093
00:54:40,700 --> 00:54:42,566
-Go.

1094
00:54:42,633 --> 00:54:44,666
-Oh. Ohh! 
[ Laughter ]

1095
00:54:45,866 --> 00:54:47,800
Like painted 
wooden plates

1096
00:54:47,866 --> 00:54:48,766
from mountain 
forests.

1097
00:54:48,833 --> 00:54:50,400
[ Laughs ]

1098
00:54:50,466 --> 00:54:55,433
♪