WEBVTT
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-Hey, I'm Rick Steves
and we're in Poland.
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This is a land of soul and pride
with a hard history
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that created an epic story
and a strong culture.
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In this special,
we'll see why this is
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such a rewarding place to visit.
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Thanks for joining us.
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♪
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♪
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♪
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♪
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In this hour, we'll see Poland's
highlights:
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Kraków's crowd-pleasing
square, its medieval glory,
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and tasty cuisine.
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-Wow. Potato pancakes.
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Grandma's food
is always the best food.
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-We'll remember the horror
of the Holocaust
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and take a nostalgic
communist-era joy ride.
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We'll cook like a local --
or at least try...
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and cap our visit
with a twilight stroll.
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Warsaw, Poland's
cosmopolitan capital,
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is gilded with a grand palace
and a trendy urbanity.
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We'll learn about its
turbulent 20th century
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and enjoy some Chopin
in the park.
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Then we visit
a gingerbread medieval town,
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taste its sweet claim to fame,
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and storm a massive
Teutonic fortress.
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Finally, we'll discover
the port of Gdansk
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and how it helped bring
down communism in Europe.
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Poland -- about the
size of Arizona --
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sits in the north
of central Europe.
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Medieval Poland was
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prominent on
Europe's map,
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but in the late
1700s it disappeared,
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partitioned by its
powerful neighbors.
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It reappeared
after WWI.
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Then, after WWII,
it was part of
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communist
Eastern Europe.
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And today, with the
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Iron Curtain long gone,
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Poland is a
leading country
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in Central Europe.
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We're following
the Vistula River --
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from Poland's
historic
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and cultural
capital Kraków,
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to its modern
capital Warsaw,
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further north, past
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Torun and
Malbork Castle,
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and finishing at
Gdansk
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on the
Baltic Sea.
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♪
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Poland's political capital
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may have moved to Warsaw
centuries ago,
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but Kraków
remains the historic, cultural,
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and intellectual capital...
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a proud symbol
of the Polish national identity.
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Kraków --
or, as locals like to say,
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"Crock-oof" --
was a trading center,
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a crossroads that boomed
back in the 11th century.
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Today, it's a sprawling city
of a million
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with a delightful Old Town.
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And everything converges
on the majestic
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and massive Main Market Square.
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It's hard not to be drawn
to this square.
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It bustles with life --
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enticing cafes...
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families out for a stroll...
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fairy-tale carriages...
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♪
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a youthful energy,
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and, it seems,
half the tourists in Poland.
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♪
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St. Mary's Church
stands tall over it all.
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Its spire doubles
as the town watchtower.
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♪
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[ Bell tolling ]
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At the top of each
hour -- literally 24/7 --
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a fireman with a trumpet
comes to the window
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and plays a tune...
[ Trumpet playing ]
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to announce "all is well"...
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a tune that suddenly dies --
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recalling a legend
in which a watchman's throat
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was pierced by an enemy arrow.
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[ Trumpet stops playing
abruptly ]
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[ Applause ]
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Inside St. Mary's each midday
is a medieval moment:
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a nun swings open the doors'
much-adored altarpiece.
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♪
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This exquisite Gothic triptych
with hinged panels
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was carved in the late 1400s
by Veit Stoss.
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One of the most impressive
medieval woodcarvings in Europe,
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it depicts the Virgin Mary's
ascent to heaven
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with emotion rare in Gothic art.
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♪
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The square's centerpiece
is the Cloth Hall.
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Once a marketplace
for cloth merchants,
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today it's home
to souvenir stalls.
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Vendors sell gifty crafts
from all over Poland.
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Like painted wooden plates
from the mountain forests...
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colorful embroidery
delicately hand-stitched...
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hand-painted pottery
from Silesia...
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and amber jewelry
from the Baltic Coast,
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for your favorite
travel partner.
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Kraków's Old Town is compact
and easy to navigate.
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The vibe is relaxed as modern
and medieval mix it up.
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In the 13th century,
after their city was destroyed
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by invaders from the east,
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Krakówians rebuilt it
with a near-perfect grid plan.
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Today, it's pedestrian-friendly
and thriving.
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They also encircled their city
with a wall
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featuring classic ramparts
and towers.
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The big, round free-standing
fort is a barbican,
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which provided extra protection
at the main gate.
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Later, the wall
was mostly torn down
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leaving just a few
evocative remnants.
05:54.100 --> 05:56.433 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
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The moat was filled in,
05:57.800 --> 06:00.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and a fine park was created
in its place.
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This circular green belt,
called the Planty,
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is popular with
today's Krakówians.
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And if you need a break
from all the tourists,
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you can bike or hike
around the Planty
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and along the riverbank.
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It's a charming local scene --
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fun-loving boaters...
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lazy picnics...
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but beware the dragon!
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♪
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Oh, and if you think
you're good at chess,
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challenge one of these guys.
06:32.633 --> 06:37.066 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
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The riverside path
is inviting...
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and so is the playful rigging
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on its delightful
pedestrian bridge.
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♪
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Cultured Kraków
comes with fine museums.
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♪
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The Czartoryski Museum shows off
the eclectic collection
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of a local aristocrat.
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Its galleries span
the centuries...
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and it's worth a visit for
one painting in particular --
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Leonardo da Vinci's
Lady with an Ermine.
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♪
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Leonardo painted
this lifelike portrait
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before his more famous
Mona Lisa,
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but he used the same
enigmatic smile.
07:19.100 --> 07:22.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The subject was likely
the 16-year-old mistress
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of the powerful Duke of Milan.
07:24.433 --> 07:27.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
She was famous
for her beauty and charm.
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♪
07:29.433 --> 07:33.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Her white ermine was a symbol
of loyalty and purity...
07:33.800 --> 07:37.333 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
07:37.400 --> 07:41.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
...but it was also the nickname
of her lover.
07:41.233 --> 07:44.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
I guess it's up to the viewer to
decide what's really goin' on.
07:45.366 --> 07:47.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Kraków has been called
"Little Rome."
07:47.666 --> 07:49.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
That's because of
its many churches.
07:49.733 --> 07:52.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
There are 23
in the Old Town alone.
07:52.400 --> 07:55.366 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
[ Choir singing ]
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The country is
devoutly Catholic.
07:57.766 --> 08:00.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
08:00.366 --> 08:03.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Almost 2/3 of Poles
attend weekly Mass,
08:03.833 --> 08:06.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
so churches here aren't just
tourist attractions --
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they're alive with worshipers.
08:10.066 --> 08:13.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Catholicism is central
to Polish identity.
08:13.566 --> 08:19.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
08:19.366 --> 08:21.233 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
[ Singing ends ]
08:21.300 --> 08:24.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Squeezed for centuries
between Protestant Germans
08:24.533 --> 08:27.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and Orthodox Russia,
Poles were united
08:27.333 --> 08:30.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and strengthened
by their Catholic faith.
08:30.100 --> 08:31.900 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
And after WWII,
08:31.966 --> 08:34.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
when Poland was ruled
by anti-Church communists,
08:34.800 --> 08:37.066 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
going to Mass
was more than worship --
08:37.133 --> 08:39.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
it was a political statement...
08:39.066 --> 08:43.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
a chance to express both dissent
and a desire for freedom.
08:43.533 --> 08:46.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It was during
these challenging times
08:46.266 --> 08:49.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
that a charismatic Kraków priest
named Karol Wojtyla
08:49.633 --> 08:53.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
led his flock in defiance
of communist authorities.
08:53.133 --> 08:56.300 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Throughout
the 1950s, '60s, and '70s,
08:56.366 --> 08:57.933 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
he fought for
the right to worship
08:58.000 --> 08:59.866 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
inside the communist state.
08:59.933 --> 09:01.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The Church hierarchy
was impressed,
09:01.766 --> 09:04.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and in 1978,
that humble Polish priest
09:05.000 --> 09:08.733 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
was elected Pope John Paul II.
09:08.800 --> 09:11.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The first non-Italian pope
in centuries
09:11.266 --> 09:13.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
was made a saint in 2014.
09:14.000 --> 09:16.966 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
Although he's
a controversial figure to some,
09:17.033 --> 09:20.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
many locals consider him
"the greatest Pole."
09:21.800 --> 09:25.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Kraków's Franciscan Church
was special to John Paul.
09:25.200 --> 09:28.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
He'd come here all alone
to pray.
09:28.100 --> 09:30.166 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
09:30.233 --> 09:33.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This was his favorite pew,
way in the back.
09:33.166 --> 09:34.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
To people across
the Eastern Bloc,
09:35.033 --> 09:38.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and to Catholics worldwide,
Pope John Paul II
09:38.166 --> 09:41.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
embodied the resistance
fighting Soviet rule,
09:41.233 --> 09:43.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and he inspired
the Polish people
09:43.333 --> 09:46.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
with his soothing refrain,
"Have no fear."
09:48.233 --> 09:50.033 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
The church is also
a fine introduction
09:50.100 --> 09:52.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
to Art Nouveau Polish style.
09:52.200 --> 09:54.366 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
09:54.433 --> 09:56.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
With its stained glass
weaving together images
09:56.866 --> 09:59.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
of the favorite
Franciscan saints,
09:59.333 --> 10:02.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
it employs the movement's
characteristic organic swoops
10:02.733 --> 10:04.833 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
and floral motifs.
10:04.900 --> 10:07.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Another window shows God
in the Act of Creation,
10:07.800 --> 10:11.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
turning natural light
into spiritual energy.
10:11.700 --> 10:16.366 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
10:16.433 --> 10:18.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The Art Nouveau style flourished
across Europe
10:18.900 --> 10:20.666 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
in the early 20th century.
10:20.733 --> 10:22.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
While Klimt was painting
in Vienna,
10:22.266 --> 10:24.533 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and Mucha was busy in Prague,
10:24.600 --> 10:29.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Poland's Art Nouveau movement
was led by Stanislaw Wyspianski.
10:29.166 --> 10:31.266 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
10:31.333 --> 10:33.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
At the museum
dedicated to the artist,
10:33.566 --> 10:36.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
you see how the movement
was playful, lyrical,
10:36.100 --> 10:37.800 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and inspired by folklore.
10:37.866 --> 10:43.866 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
10:43.933 --> 10:45.900 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Wyspianski
and his fellow artists
10:45.966 --> 10:47.666 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
mixed gloom and mysticism
10:47.733 --> 10:51.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
into beauty
that came with a message --
10:51.366 --> 10:53.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
the spirit of Poland
will live on.
10:53.900 --> 10:57.666 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
10:59.033 --> 11:02.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
To learn more about Polish
culture, I'm joined by my friend
11:02.333 --> 11:05.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and fellow tour guide,
Tomasz Klimek.
11:05.166 --> 11:06.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Every time I travel in Poland,
11:06.833 --> 11:08.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
it seems vodka is
quite important.
11:08.666 --> 11:10.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
What does vodka mean to Poland?
11:11.000 --> 11:13.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Vodka is definitely
our national drink.
11:13.366 --> 11:16.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
We take it very seriously.
We're very proud of it.
11:16.166 --> 11:19.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Polish vodka is a brand that
is renowned all over the world,
11:19.966 --> 11:22.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and we do take our vodka
very seriously.
11:22.333 --> 11:25.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So Polish vodka, does
that mean Polish ingredients?
11:25.066 --> 11:27.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Polish vodka has to be
not only made in Poland
11:27.466 --> 11:30.066 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
but made from Polish
local ingredients.
11:30.133 --> 11:32.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
And those could be
either potatoes,
11:32.300 --> 11:34.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
so we have potato vodka,
or grain.
11:34.600 --> 11:37.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-So is this potatoes or grain?
-This one is grain vodka.
11:37.600 --> 11:39.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-Which do you like better?
-I like grain better.
11:39.400 --> 11:40.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
That's my favorite.
11:41.033 --> 11:44.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-So is there a ritual for
drinking it in a pub or a bar?
11:44.200 --> 11:45.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-Yes, there is.
When we celebrate,
11:45.833 --> 11:50.566 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
we drink it with our friends,
and we do mainly the shots.
11:50.633 --> 11:54.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
And we don't sip it like this.
We just do the bottoms up.
11:54.533 --> 11:56.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-Is that right? No sipping?
-No sipping.
11:56.700 --> 11:59.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-What if I sip?
What do people think?
11:59.300 --> 12:01.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Well, if you want to be
really local,
12:01.166 --> 12:02.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
you better do the bottoms up.
12:02.900 --> 12:04.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-Okay, so really,
just throw it right down.
12:04.900 --> 12:07.366 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
-Exactly.
-And how do you say toast?
12:07.433 --> 12:09.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-Na zdrowie.
-Na zdrowie.
12:09.966 --> 12:11.400 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
-And bottoms up.
12:12.933 --> 12:15.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
[ Exhales sharply ]
-[ Chuckles ] Ha!
12:15.933 --> 12:17.700 align:start position:42.5% line:84.66% size:12.5%
-Yes!
12:17.766 --> 12:21.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-With or without vodka,
Poles know how to have fun.
12:21.533 --> 12:23.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
On this warm September evening,
12:23.466 --> 12:26.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
people are out and about
enjoying the moment --
12:26.533 --> 12:30.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
whether at cafes with a view,
in the back streets,
12:30.133 --> 12:32.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
or in characteristic
cellar bars.
12:33.033 --> 12:35.966 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
It's time for
a traditional Polish dinner,
12:36.033 --> 12:38.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and Tomasz is eager
to give us an education
12:39.000 --> 12:41.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
in his favorite cuisine.
12:41.066 --> 12:42.600 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
I get a feeling that in Poland
12:42.666 --> 12:44.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the cuisine is a
very proud part of the culture.
12:44.933 --> 12:47.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-Yes, and getting to know
the culture through its food
12:47.366 --> 12:49.033 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
is always the best way,
12:49.100 --> 12:51.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and tonight we're trying
all the classics.
12:51.466 --> 12:53.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
They always start
with the soup.
12:53.200 --> 12:56.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Soup is an integral part
of our meal,
12:56.133 --> 12:59.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
so we have around 200 different
soups for different occasions,
12:59.500 --> 13:03.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and today we're having
the most traditional ones.
13:03.166 --> 13:06.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So what you're having
is called zurek.
13:06.133 --> 13:07.900 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
-Zurek.
-Zurek, perfect.
13:07.966 --> 13:11.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Fermented rye flour forms
a base for the soup.
13:11.400 --> 13:14.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-I can taste that -- that rye.
There's that sourness.
13:14.266 --> 13:16.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Fermented rye.
And what's yours?
13:16.500 --> 13:19.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-And I am having borscht.
-Borscht?
13:20.000 --> 13:23.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Yes, just beetroot soup
with the pieces of beetroot,
13:23.266 --> 13:25.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
with potatoes,
and with dill as a final touch.
13:25.900 --> 13:27.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
-This is a good start
to the meal.
13:27.433 --> 13:30.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
How do we say bon appetit?
-In Poland, we say smacznego.
13:30.533 --> 13:32.600 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
-Smacznego.
-Smacznego, perfect.
13:32.666 --> 13:34.966 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
-Alright.
-Smacznego. Enjoy your meal.
13:35.033 --> 13:37.000 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
13:37.066 --> 13:40.300 align:start position:45% line:79.33% size:10%
-Oh.
-Wow. Potato pancakes...
13:40.366 --> 13:42.066 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
Thank you.
13:42.133 --> 13:44.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Always one of Polish classics,
potato pancakes.
13:44.733 --> 13:48.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Crispy on the outside,
soft inside,
13:48.333 --> 13:51.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
which is a secret
of every grandma.
13:51.433 --> 13:55.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
So, there are many different
ways of having potato pancakes.
13:55.600 --> 13:57.133 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
One is with sour cream.
13:57.200 --> 13:59.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The other traditional way is
having them with goulash.
13:59.633 --> 14:01.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-I bet there's a lot of
childhood memories
14:01.433 --> 14:03.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
on that plate.
-Oh, yes,
14:03.566 --> 14:07.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
because, you know, grandma's
food is always the best food.
14:07.066 --> 14:09.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
This is the one
that you remember, so, yes.
14:09.300 --> 14:12.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-This restaurant specializes
in grandma's cooking.
14:12.566 --> 14:14.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Krakówians come for
both the great food
14:14.800 --> 14:17.333 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
and to feel nostalgic.
14:17.400 --> 14:20.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
So now our education
in Polish cuisine continues.
14:20.466 --> 14:22.966 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-Yes, we continue
with three other classics.
14:23.033 --> 14:25.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
We have Polish sausage,
kielbasa.
14:25.966 --> 14:28.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
This is something you must try
while you're in Poland
14:28.333 --> 14:30.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and we're having
the grilled version right now
14:30.533 --> 14:34.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
served with onions fried
on butter together with mustard.
14:34.633 --> 14:36.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-Sausage and beers.
-Always.
14:36.500 --> 14:38.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
-Life is good.
-Always together.
14:38.400 --> 14:41.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-What's next?
-So, the next is bigos.
14:41.200 --> 14:45.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Bigos sometimes being translated
as a hunter's stew.
14:45.666 --> 14:49.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Basically, fermented cabbage,
meat, sausage,
14:49.566 --> 14:53.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
mushroom, and a lot of spices
boiled for many days.
14:53.366 --> 14:55.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-And there's another plate.
-And there's another plate,
14:55.400 --> 14:58.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
another Polish classic, golabki.
14:58.066 --> 15:03.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
-So golabki, cabbage rolls that
are stuffed with rice and meat.
15:03.066 --> 15:06.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
And we serve them
with tomato sauce.
15:06.333 --> 15:10.466 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
15:10.533 --> 15:12.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
No matter how much you eat,
there's always room for dessert,
15:12.966 --> 15:15.233 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
so we are having a racuchy.
15:15.300 --> 15:18.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Racuchy is a...you would call
it like apple fritter.
15:18.466 --> 15:20.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
It comes not only
with the powdered sugar,
15:20.566 --> 15:25.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
but also with vanilla and berry
sauce that you put on top of it.
15:25.900 --> 15:31.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
15:31.833 --> 15:33.366 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
-This is great.
15:33.433 --> 15:35.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
And, you know,
food tastes even better
15:35.400 --> 15:37.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
when you know a little bit
about what you're eating.
15:37.433 --> 15:38.666 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
-It's true.
15:40.666 --> 15:42.200 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
-From Kraków's Old Town,
15:42.266 --> 15:44.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
a ramp leads up to
the most hallowed ground
15:44.866 --> 15:46.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
in all of Poland.
15:46.833 --> 15:49.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Wawel Hill is sacred
to the Polish people --
15:49.900 --> 15:53.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
a castle and royal residence
since the 11th century.
15:53.966 --> 15:57.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The park-like scene entices
Poles to drop by
15:57.466 --> 16:00.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and celebrate their nation's
epic story.
16:00.533 --> 16:02.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Everything is layered
in history,
16:02.433 --> 16:06.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
including the venerable
Wawel Cathedral.
16:06.233 --> 16:08.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Architecturally,
it's a hodgepodge --
16:08.800 --> 16:12.200 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
a riot of towers and chapels.
16:12.266 --> 16:15.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
This national church,
with its many tombs,
16:15.300 --> 16:18.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
is a who's who of the nation's
most beloved figures --
16:18.966 --> 16:24.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
from saints, to generals,
to kings and queens.
16:24.966 --> 16:27.433 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
And if you're going to remember
only one name,
16:27.500 --> 16:29.566 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
make it Kazimierz the Great.
16:29.633 --> 16:33.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
He ruled Poland from Kraków
in the 14th century.
16:33.700 --> 16:36.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The larger-than-life
Kazimierz was a great warrior,
16:36.800 --> 16:40.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
diplomat, and patron
of the arts.
16:40.300 --> 16:41.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
His scribes bragged that
16:41.900 --> 16:43.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
"Kazimierz found
Poland made of wood,
16:44.000 --> 16:46.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and left it made of stone
and brick."
16:46.666 --> 16:50.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
In fact, he even made it
onto the 50 zloty note.
16:50.233 --> 16:54.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Kazimierz provided refuge for
Jews expelled from other lands,
16:54.133 --> 16:56.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
and he established the tradition
16:56.133 --> 16:59.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
that Poland would provide
safe refuge for Europe's Jews.
16:59.466 --> 17:01.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
In fact, for centuries,
17:01.433 --> 17:03.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
an estimated 1/3
of the world's Jews
17:03.833 --> 17:08.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
lived right here in a land
known as "the Jewish paradise."
17:09.766 --> 17:12.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
While they still faced
some persecution,
17:12.133 --> 17:16.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Jews carved out a relatively
vital niche in Polish society,
17:16.066 --> 17:17.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
as Poland became home to
17:17.433 --> 17:20.800 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
an estimated
1/3 of the world's Jews.
17:20.866 --> 17:25.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Kraków's historic Jewish
district is named for Kazimierz.
17:25.366 --> 17:27.066 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Until the 20th century,
17:27.133 --> 17:30.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Jews made up a quarter
of Kraków's population.
17:30.266 --> 17:32.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Of the neighborhood's
many historic synagogues,
17:32.600 --> 17:34.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
some are still places
of worship.
17:34.900 --> 17:37.033 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
17:37.100 --> 17:40.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
But today the economy is
mostly tourism.
17:40.533 --> 17:43.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And touristy restaurants
feature klezmer,
17:43.700 --> 17:45.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
a Jewish traditional folk music
17:45.633 --> 17:49.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
that stokes a nostalgia
for their poignant story.
17:49.300 --> 17:59.200 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
17:59.266 --> 18:09.133 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
18:09.200 --> 18:19.100 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
18:19.166 --> 18:29.100 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
18:29.166 --> 18:30.633 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
18:30.700 --> 18:33.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
[ Cheers and applause ]
18:37.666 --> 18:39.133 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
18:39.200 --> 18:43.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The Old Cemetery of Kazimierz
also honors the Jewish past.
18:43.733 --> 18:48.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This grave remembers
a beloved 16th century rabbi.
18:48.933 --> 18:52.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Prayers are lovingly tucked
into the cracks and crevices
18:52.400 --> 18:54.133 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
of his tombstone,
18:54.200 --> 18:56.500 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
and rocks
stacked atop tombs --
18:56.566 --> 18:58.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
also representing prayers --
18:58.233 --> 19:00.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
recall the ancient
Jewish tradition
19:00.433 --> 19:03.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
of covering sandy graves
with stones
19:03.133 --> 19:05.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
to prevent them
from being disturbed.
19:06.800 --> 19:08.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Jewish cemeteries,
like the community
19:09.000 --> 19:11.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
of Kazimierz itself,
were nearly destroyed
19:11.700 --> 19:15.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
after Nazi Germany invaded
Poland in 1939.
19:15.400 --> 19:17.500 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
19:17.566 --> 19:20.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Gravestones, crushed
under Nazi tank treads,
19:20.233 --> 19:23.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
were later assembled
into memorial mosaic walls.
19:23.500 --> 19:26.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
19:26.833 --> 19:28.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
During the Holocaust,
19:28.433 --> 19:30.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
the vast majority
of Kraków's Jews
19:30.333 --> 19:32.766 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
ended up in concentration camps,
19:32.833 --> 19:36.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and fewer than 1 in 10
survived World War II.
19:38.200 --> 19:40.100 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
About an hour away is perhaps
19:40.166 --> 19:43.566 align:start position:15% line:10% size:67.5%
the most powerful Holocaust
memorial in all of Europe --
19:43.633 --> 19:47.200 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:55%
the concentration camp
at Auschwitz-Birkenau.
19:48.166 --> 19:50.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This was the biggest
and most notorious
19:50.633 --> 19:54.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
concentration camp
in the vast Nazi system.
19:54.266 --> 19:57.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
After invading
and occupying Poland in 1939,
19:57.633 --> 20:00.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Nazi Germany built
many such camps here,
20:00.433 --> 20:03.600 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
far from
mainstream German society.
20:03.666 --> 20:07.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Ultimately, they murdered an
estimated six million people --
20:07.900 --> 20:09.266 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
mostly Jews,
20:09.333 --> 20:12.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and about half of those
came from Poland.
20:14.200 --> 20:17.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The Nazis turned this army base
into a death camp.
20:17.800 --> 20:21.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Over a million people,
the vast majority of them Jews,
20:21.366 --> 20:26.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
were systematically exterminated
here at Auschwitz.
20:26.100 --> 20:29.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
The notorious gate welcomed
inmates with a cruel lie:
20:30.033 --> 20:32.033 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
Arbeit Macht Frei.
20:32.100 --> 20:34.200 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
"Work will set you free."
20:35.900 --> 20:37.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The former cell blocks
now display
20:37.866 --> 20:41.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
powerful museum exhibits
that, while difficult to see,
20:41.666 --> 20:45.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
must, out of respect
to its victims, be seen.
20:45.533 --> 20:48.833 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
20:48.900 --> 20:51.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
People were told
they'd be starting new lives
20:51.133 --> 20:54.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
and to bring luggage -- clearly
labeled with their names.
20:54.866 --> 20:56.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
After they were killed,
20:56.400 --> 21:00.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
everything of value
was seized and sorted.
21:00.766 --> 21:03.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Crutches and prosthetic limbs
remind us
21:03.200 --> 21:05.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
that the first people
exterminated
21:05.266 --> 21:07.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
were the mentally
and physically ill.
21:09.166 --> 21:11.800 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
Piles of glasses...
21:11.866 --> 21:14.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
a seemingly endless mountain
of shoes...
21:14.900 --> 21:17.766 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
it's hard to comprehend
the numbers.
21:17.833 --> 21:21.866 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Even children.
The Nazis spared no one.
21:21.933 --> 21:24.333 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
21:24.400 --> 21:29.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Halls are lined with photographs
of victims --
21:29.200 --> 21:30.333 align:start position:42.5% line:84.66% size:15%
men...
21:30.400 --> 21:32.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
21:32.833 --> 21:35.200 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
...and women...
21:35.266 --> 21:39.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
each marked with the date of
arrival and the date of death.
21:39.666 --> 21:43.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Inmates rarely survived
more than a couple months.
21:45.066 --> 21:48.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The gas chamber and crematorium
is marked by its chimney.
21:48.733 --> 21:51.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Up to 700 people at a time
could be gassed,
21:51.800 --> 21:56.266 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
but it required two days to burn
that many bodies.
21:56.333 --> 21:59.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The Nazis wanted an
even higher death toll,
21:59.366 --> 22:02.633 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
so they built a
far bigger camp nearby.
22:04.300 --> 22:06.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
That camp, called Birkenau,
22:06.366 --> 22:09.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
was an efficient factory
for the mass production of death
22:09.666 --> 22:13.033 align:start position:17.5% line:74% size:62.5%
designed to implement the
Nazis'
Final Solution --
22:13.100 --> 22:14.700 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
genocide...
22:14.766 --> 22:17.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
the murder of all Jews.
22:18.733 --> 22:22.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
It could hold about 100,000
prisoners at a time.
22:23.000 --> 22:26.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
People from all over Europe
were loaded like animals
22:26.533 --> 22:28.800 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
into train cars like this.
22:28.866 --> 22:31.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
They'd pass
under the infamous gatehouse,
22:31.366 --> 22:34.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
into the camp,
and to the dividing platform.
22:34.800 --> 22:44.533 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
22:45.533 --> 22:49.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
A Nazi doctor stood here
and evaluated each prisoner
22:49.066 --> 22:50.633 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
as they stepped off the train.
22:50.700 --> 22:53.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
If he pointed one way,
that prisoner marched,
22:53.300 --> 22:55.866 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
unknowingly,
directly to the gas chamber.
22:55.933 --> 22:57.300 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
If he pointed the other,
22:57.366 --> 22:59.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the person was judged
fit to work
22:59.566 --> 23:01.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and would live a little longer.
23:01.933 --> 23:04.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
It was here that countless
families from across Europe
23:05.000 --> 23:07.100 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
were torn apart forever.
23:10.300 --> 23:13.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Barracks were packed with up to
1,000 prisoners --
23:13.566 --> 23:17.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
each person with an ID number
rather than a name.
23:17.366 --> 23:19.766 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Two chimneys connected
by a brick duct
23:19.833 --> 23:21.433 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
provided a little heat.
23:23.100 --> 23:25.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The bricks are worn smooth
by countless inmates
23:25.600 --> 23:27.133 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
who sat here
to catch a little warmth
23:27.200 --> 23:29.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
in the middle
of a bitter Polish winter.
23:29.566 --> 23:31.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
I can't imagine
how cold they must have been,
23:31.766 --> 23:34.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
hungry, wet,
and dressed in rags...
23:34.400 --> 23:35.966 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
and terrified.
23:36.033 --> 23:38.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
As the Allies advanced
and Germany retreated,
23:39.033 --> 23:41.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the Nazis bombed the evidence
of their crimes.
23:42.000 --> 23:44.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The gas chambers,
where the mass killing was done,
23:44.600 --> 23:47.233 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
were disguised as showers.
23:47.300 --> 23:49.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
People were given hooks
to hang their clothes on,
23:49.666 --> 23:52.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
conned into thinking
they'd be coming back.
23:52.200 --> 23:54.933 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
The Nazis didn't want a panic.
23:55.033 --> 23:58.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Then the inmates piled
into the "shower room."
23:58.700 --> 24:01.400 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
At Birkenau,
the Nazis gassed and cremated
24:01.466 --> 24:04.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
thousands of people per day.
24:04.533 --> 24:07.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The camp monument
represents gravestones
24:07.266 --> 24:10.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
and the chimney
of a crematorium.
24:10.566 --> 24:12.133 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Plaques,
in each of the languages
24:12.200 --> 24:13.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
spoken by camp victims,
24:13.633 --> 24:17.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
explain the mission
of this memorial.
24:17.066 --> 24:22.066 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
24:24.233 --> 24:26.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Back in Kraków,
tourists can learn about
24:26.666 --> 24:28.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the next chapter
of Poland's story --
24:29.033 --> 24:32.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
becoming a Soviet satellite
after World War II.
24:33.733 --> 24:35.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
One entertaining
yet informative way
24:35.666 --> 24:37.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
to get a peek at that
24:37.300 --> 24:38.933 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
is by looking
through the windows
24:39.000 --> 24:41.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
of tiny communist-era cars.
-Hop in.
24:41.900 --> 24:44.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-And we'll do the same,
visiting the communist-planned
24:44.900 --> 24:47.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
workers' town of Nowa Huta.
24:47.133 --> 24:49.866 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Oh, I love this little car.
24:49.933 --> 24:52.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-Don't get too comfortable.
[ Laughter ]
24:52.833 --> 24:55.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
-And our guide is Cornelia.
24:55.133 --> 24:57.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
This is such a treat.
Tell me about this little car.
24:57.800 --> 25:01.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
-So we are driving a famous
Trabant from East Germany,
25:01.900 --> 25:05.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
a very popular family car
in Poland.
25:05.333 --> 25:07.333 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Also one of few to choose from,
25:07.400 --> 25:10.866 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
so people had no choice and they
were happy with what they got.
25:10.933 --> 25:12.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
-Was it easy to get the car?
25:12.866 --> 25:17.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-Not so easy. Like,
you had to wait quite a lot.
25:17.333 --> 25:20.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
10, 15 years.
Record in Poland is 20 years.
25:20.833 --> 25:22.966 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
25:23.033 --> 25:24.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-So tell me about
this neighborhood.
25:24.833 --> 25:28.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
What is this?
-We are in Nowa Huta district.
25:28.400 --> 25:31.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
It's a communist model city
from the '50s.
25:32.033 --> 25:33.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The only place like that
in Poland, actually.
25:33.766 --> 25:36.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So, it's supposed
to be a showcase,
25:36.633 --> 25:38.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
kind of proving
that communism works --
25:38.366 --> 25:41.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
people get jobs, apartments,
and they're happy.
25:41.833 --> 25:45.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-Nowa Huta was designed around
a new enormous steel mill,
25:45.700 --> 25:47.200 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
the largest in Poland.
25:47.266 --> 25:49.066 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Called the Lenin Steelworks,
25:49.133 --> 25:51.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
it employed
nearly 40,000 workers
25:51.366 --> 25:54.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
who worked in 3 shifts,
24 hours a day.
25:54.900 --> 25:57.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
It was intended
as a high-production factory
25:57.133 --> 26:00.033 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
to show off the Soviet Bloc's
industrial might.
26:00.100 --> 26:02.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
How many people lived
in Nowa Huta?
26:02.733 --> 26:05.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-The design was
for 100,000 people,
26:05.233 --> 26:07.600 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
but it was like
a worker's paradise.
26:07.666 --> 26:11.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So most men had a job
in one factory over here,
26:11.300 --> 26:15.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
steelworks, and families, women,
you had jobs like services,
26:15.633 --> 26:18.100 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
hospitals,
so it was self-sufficient town.
26:18.166 --> 26:22.800 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
-So why did Stalin want to give
that plan to Kraków?
26:22.866 --> 26:25.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
-Well, one of the main reasons
for sure
26:25.166 --> 26:28.666 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
were to punish
the Intelligentsia,
26:28.733 --> 26:32.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
to kind of counterbalance
this society in Kraków
26:32.300 --> 26:33.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
with a lot of churches,
universities,
26:34.033 --> 26:36.466 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
with workers
which before were farmers
26:36.533 --> 26:38.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
and had quite simple lives.
26:38.533 --> 26:42.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-So punish Kraków for having
culture, education and churches?
26:42.533 --> 26:44.700 align:start position:42.5% line:79.33% size:15%
-Yeah.
-What was it like to actually
26:44.766 --> 26:47.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
live here in the '50s?
-So after the war,
26:47.666 --> 26:50.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
this was a very attractive place
for people to come.
26:50.666 --> 26:53.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So they had jobs,
they had apartments for free,
26:53.800 --> 26:57.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and shops were even better
than the center.
26:57.200 --> 27:00.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
They wanted to show people
in Kraków that it's working.
27:00.666 --> 27:03.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
So after the war,
that was a good place to live.
27:05.300 --> 27:09.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-So what is the story of
Nowa Huta after communism fell?
27:09.266 --> 27:12.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-After communism fell,
it was not the best place to be,
27:12.200 --> 27:15.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
especially that you had a job
in the factory,
27:15.200 --> 27:17.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
which you probably lost
in the '90s.
27:17.066 --> 27:19.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
But now within 30 years' time,
27:19.833 --> 27:22.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
this is a pretty nice place
to live in.
27:22.500 --> 27:26.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
People are happy, people have
beautiful space to live in,
27:26.900 --> 27:28.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and they definitely prefer it
27:28.433 --> 27:30.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
more than being
in the busy center.
27:30.133 --> 27:32.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Probably one of the best
districts to live in Kraków.
27:32.933 --> 27:34.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
-And the central plaza,
27:34.666 --> 27:36.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
reflecting the transition
from communism
27:36.833 --> 27:38.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
to democracy and capitalism,
27:38.533 --> 27:40.800 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
is called Ronald Reagan Square.
27:40.866 --> 27:45.166 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
27:45.233 --> 27:46.766 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
Back in the heart of Kraków,
27:46.833 --> 27:48.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
we're meeting up
with Tomasz again
27:48.500 --> 27:50.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
to do some shopping
at the market.
27:50.333 --> 27:53.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
It's a festival
of fresh and local produce --
27:53.500 --> 27:54.900 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
berries...
27:54.966 --> 27:56.500 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
mushrooms...
27:56.566 --> 27:58.366 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
eggs right off the farm...
27:58.433 --> 28:00.600 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
fresh baked bread...
28:00.666 --> 28:02.333 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
mountain cheeses...
28:02.400 --> 28:05.900 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
sausages,
and other rustic village food.
28:05.966 --> 28:09.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Some of these humble family
businesses go back generations.
28:09.966 --> 28:12.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
In a market like this,
the community comes together
28:12.600 --> 28:14.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
shopping daily,
taking full advantage
28:14.966 --> 28:16.933 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
of the fertility of this land.
28:18.033 --> 28:20.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
And as Tomasz will attempt
to teach me
28:20.800 --> 28:23.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
how to cook a classic
Polish dish,
28:23.066 --> 28:25.566 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
we're buying
the necessary ingredients.
28:27.333 --> 28:30.000 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
-Alright.
-Okay.
28:30.066 --> 28:32.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-[ Indistinct ]
-Thank you.
28:33.366 --> 28:34.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-Flip it over
onto the dough board.
28:34.900 --> 28:39.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-In Tomasz's kitchen, I'm
learning how to make pierogi.
28:39.100 --> 28:41.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
First, you knead
the potato dough
28:41.300 --> 28:44.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
to just the right texture.
-It's very relaxing.
28:44.966 --> 28:48.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
It's like going to a spa
for your body and soul.
28:48.400 --> 28:51.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
-Is Grandma looking down?
-I hope she is.
28:51.266 --> 28:52.933 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
-[ Chuckles ]
28:53.000 --> 28:56.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Then you roll it out,
flat as a Polish crepe...
28:56.133 --> 28:58.466 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
-You want it
as thin as possible,
28:58.533 --> 29:00.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
because our dough
is generally flavorless.
29:01.000 --> 29:05.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
What gives flavor to our dish
is the filling and topping.
29:05.066 --> 29:07.100 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
-...and cut out small discs.
29:07.166 --> 29:10.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-Beautiful. Mm-hmm.
-Circle.
29:10.333 --> 29:11.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Making cute little pockets,
29:12.000 --> 29:15.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
you tuck in the cheese,
onion, and meat filling,
29:15.100 --> 29:18.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
then seal it water-tight
around the edges.
29:18.533 --> 29:20.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-[ Indistinct ]
-There we go.
29:20.966 --> 29:23.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
-Your first pierogi.
Congratulations!
29:25.366 --> 29:27.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
And we just wait
for them to float.
29:27.333 --> 29:30.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-After a short boiling bath,
they're ready to eat.
29:32.666 --> 29:34.066 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
In true family style,
29:34.133 --> 29:36.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
we enjoy a little sunshine
in the backyard
29:36.633 --> 29:38.533 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and a classic Polish meal
29:38.600 --> 29:42.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
just like Grandma,
or Babcia, used to make.
29:42.166 --> 29:45.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Dziekuje Babcia.
-Dziekuje Babcia, yes.
29:45.100 --> 29:46.900 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
I hope she's proud.
29:49.100 --> 29:51.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Alright. Let's work off
some of that pierogi
29:51.266 --> 29:55.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
with an evening walk
and one last slice of Kraków.
29:55.366 --> 29:56.966 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
The Jewish quarter, Kazimierz,
29:57.033 --> 29:59.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
has transformed
into a thriving night spot
29:59.800 --> 30:04.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
with trendy pubs and restaurants
and an inviting energy.
30:04.066 --> 30:06.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
The round market hall
is now a food circus
30:06.933 --> 30:10.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
popular with families
and locals out on a cheap date,
30:10.300 --> 30:13.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
many munching zapiekanka,
the local pizza.
30:13.866 --> 30:15.933 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
30:16.000 --> 30:18.000 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
And back at
the Main Market Square,
30:18.066 --> 30:21.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
locals and visitors alike
make the scene.
30:22.166 --> 30:23.666 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Cafes are full...
30:25.566 --> 30:29.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
...the horse carriages
add to the genteel atmosphere...
30:29.900 --> 30:32.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and it's all about
another great travel tip --
30:32.933 --> 30:34.833 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
savoring the moment.
30:35.833 --> 30:38.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
As the sun sets
and the lights come on,
30:38.633 --> 30:42.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Kraków takes on a timeless
and romantic aura.
30:42.800 --> 30:45.266 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
30:47.966 --> 30:51.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
About 150 miles north
down the Vistula River
30:51.333 --> 30:54.033 align:start position:10% line:10% size:80%
lies the capital city, Warsaw --
30:54.100 --> 30:57.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the heartbeat of
contemporary Poland.
30:57.900 --> 31:00.200 align:start position:42.5% line:79.33% size:15%
Warsaw
is an energetic metropolis
31:00.266 --> 31:03.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
offering a fascinating foray
into urban Poland.
31:03.500 --> 31:08.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
It comes with both a hard-fought
history and a modern vibrancy.
31:08.633 --> 31:11.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Today, Warsaw --
pronounced "var-SHA-va" here --
31:11.433 --> 31:16.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
is Poland's biggest city with
close to two million people.
31:16.233 --> 31:18.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
It's muscular and sprawling,
31:18.200 --> 31:21.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
broad boulevards
and imposing buildings,
31:21.366 --> 31:24.366 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and glittering
glass office towers.
31:24.433 --> 31:28.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Today's Warsaw is a thriving
European center of business,
31:28.100 --> 31:31.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
banking, and politics
with a cosmopolitan energy.
31:33.333 --> 31:36.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Warsaw's glory days peaked
between the World Wars,
31:36.400 --> 31:40.033 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
when it was one of Europe's
most genteel capitals.
31:40.100 --> 31:43.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
That spirit survives along
its rebuilt sweeping main drag,
31:43.500 --> 31:45.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
the sweeping Royal Way,
31:45.633 --> 31:50.533 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
with its elegant facades and its
popularity with local strollers.
31:51.566 --> 31:53.233 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Just being out and about,
31:53.300 --> 31:56.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
you feel the youthful confidence
of this society.
31:57.466 --> 31:59.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Stately hotels
and government buildings --
31:59.800 --> 32:02.133 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:17.5%
this is
the president's residence --
32:02.200 --> 32:04.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
add to the Royal Way's grandeur.
32:06.233 --> 32:09.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The Blikle bakery is every
Pole's favorite for paczki --
32:09.833 --> 32:11.333 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
jelly donuts.
32:11.400 --> 32:16.200 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
32:17.633 --> 32:19.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
When locals here
"go out for doughnuts,"
32:19.500 --> 32:21.100 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
they go out for paczki.
32:21.166 --> 32:22.666 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
My favorite is the classic.
32:22.733 --> 32:24.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
It's filled with wild rose jam.
32:26.633 --> 32:28.066 align:start position:45% line:84.66% size:10%
Mmm!
32:28.133 --> 32:30.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
But it's not
all jelly doughnuts.
32:30.400 --> 32:33.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Vast squares with memorials
remind all
32:33.366 --> 32:35.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
of Poland's hard-fought history.
32:35.800 --> 32:38.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Here, the eternal flame
honors war dead
32:38.233 --> 32:41.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
with numbers
almost incomprehensible.
32:42.000 --> 32:43.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
As the city
was totally destroyed
32:43.900 --> 32:45.633 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
by Nazis in World War II,
32:45.700 --> 32:47.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
nearly everything
you'll see --
32:47.433 --> 32:49.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
palaces, churches,
and fountains --
32:50.000 --> 32:54.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
was painstakingly rebuilt
from the rubble of 1945.
32:55.000 --> 32:58.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
I keep having to remind myself
that, in this city,
32:58.366 --> 33:02.033 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
hardly a building standing is
over 80 years old.
33:02.100 --> 33:05.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Consequently, Warsaw is
an architectural jumble,
33:05.533 --> 33:08.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
rebuilt both old and new.
33:08.533 --> 33:13.533 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
33:15.233 --> 33:18.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Warsaw's meticulously rebuilt
Old Town is dominated
33:19.033 --> 33:23.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
by its meticulously rebuilt
Royal Castle.
33:23.466 --> 33:25.833 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
The castle,
a symbol of Polish sovereignty
33:25.900 --> 33:27.866 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
now for over 400 years,
33:27.933 --> 33:30.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
boasts some of this country's
most lavish halls,
33:31.033 --> 33:35.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
gilded and glittering
with chandeliers.
33:35.166 --> 33:38.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The palace reflects
how Poland was independent
33:38.100 --> 33:41.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and strong for centuries,
starting in the Middle Ages.
33:42.766 --> 33:45.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
When the home-grown dynasty
died out,
33:45.066 --> 33:47.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Poland's nobility elected
foreign kings
33:47.733 --> 33:49.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
at gatherings like this.
33:51.133 --> 33:54.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Many of those imported rulers
squandered Poland's resources
33:54.900 --> 33:57.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
on their own selfish agendas.
33:57.900 --> 33:59.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
They weakened the country
33:59.333 --> 34:03.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
until it actually ceased
to exist in 1795.
34:05.200 --> 34:08.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
For over 100 years, Poland
disappeared from the map,
34:08.766 --> 34:11.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
partitioned by three empires --
34:11.100 --> 34:13.566 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Prussia, Austria, and Russia.
34:13.633 --> 34:16.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
But the Poles succeeded
in preserving their culture
34:16.700 --> 34:22.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
until their country was reborn
in 1918 after WWI.
34:22.466 --> 34:24.166 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Today, back out on the streets,
34:24.233 --> 34:27.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
the atmospheric Old Town
entertains tourists.
34:27.766 --> 34:32.733 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Here the 21st century seems
to rule these cobbled lanes.
34:32.800 --> 34:34.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
The Market Square is another
34:34.533 --> 34:37.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
painstakingly reconstructed part
of the old town.
34:37.533 --> 34:39.500 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
It's a great place
to get something to eat
34:39.566 --> 34:43.000 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
or just relax and people watch.
34:43.066 --> 34:45.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The mermaid --
a symbol of Warsaw --
34:45.200 --> 34:47.033 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
serenades the townspeople,
34:47.100 --> 34:50.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
still welcoming friends
while keeping out foes.
34:50.600 --> 34:54.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
To me, this fountain, always
energetic with kids playing,
34:54.433 --> 34:56.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
feels like a celebration
of life...
34:56.633 --> 34:57.866 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
Polish life.
35:00.333 --> 35:06.900 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
35:06.966 --> 35:09.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And Polish life comes
with music,
35:09.433 --> 35:13.433 align:start position:22.5% line:74% size:52.5%
especially the genius
of favorite son, Frédéric
Chopin.
35:13.500 --> 35:17.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
On summer Sundays,
Chopin concerts pack the park.
35:17.666 --> 35:20.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
It's an expression of this
city's pride in its culture
35:20.700 --> 35:23.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and in an enduring appetite
for community.
35:23.766 --> 35:30.833 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
35:30.900 --> 35:35.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Poland's great Romantic composer
sits under a willow tree.
35:36.400 --> 35:39.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Though he lived and worked
mostly in Paris,
35:39.100 --> 35:42.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
locals cherish the thought
that Chopin's inspiration
35:42.833 --> 35:46.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
came from memories of the breeze
blowing through the willow trees
35:46.100 --> 35:48.633 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
of his native land, Poland.
35:48.700 --> 35:55.966 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
35:56.033 --> 36:00.700 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
36:03.333 --> 36:07.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Warsaw museums work hard to
explain its complicated history,
36:07.666 --> 36:11.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and much of Poland's story
is a Jewish story.
36:11.133 --> 36:13.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Museum of the History
of Polish Jews
36:13.833 --> 36:18.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
celebrates a thousand years
of Jews living in Poland.
36:18.433 --> 36:21.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
A winding route traces
their experience.
36:21.633 --> 36:23.600 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
36:23.666 --> 36:26.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
With the relative tolerance
of medieval kings,
36:26.166 --> 36:29.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Jews became established
in Polish society.
36:29.733 --> 36:32.066 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
But because they still suffered
through pogroms
36:32.133 --> 36:36.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and other persecution,
few actual artifacts survive.
36:37.400 --> 36:40.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Many Jews lived
in market towns called shtetls,
36:40.733 --> 36:44.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
with richly decorated
wooden synagogues.
36:44.466 --> 36:47.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Above the traditional
elevated prayer platform
36:47.266 --> 36:48.800 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
is a colorful ceiling,
36:48.866 --> 36:52.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
a humble canopy rich
with symbolism.
36:52.666 --> 36:55.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
When Poland regained its
independence after World War I,
36:56.000 --> 36:57.866 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Jewish culture blossomed,
36:57.933 --> 37:00.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
especially in the 1920s
when, for the first time,
37:00.933 --> 37:04.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Jews had full citizenship
and voting rights.
37:04.633 --> 37:08.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
And Warsaw was the biggest
Jewish city in Europe.
37:08.533 --> 37:10.666 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
[ Explosions ]
37:10.733 --> 37:14.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Tragically, this flourishing
of Jewish culture was crushed
37:14.066 --> 37:18.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
when Fascist Germany
invaded in 1939.
37:18.233 --> 37:21.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Jews were then corralled
into a miserable ghetto...
37:21.800 --> 37:23.800 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
subjected
to unlivable conditions
37:23.866 --> 37:27.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
before being shipped off
to Nazi death camps and killed.
37:27.733 --> 37:35.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
37:35.366 --> 37:37.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
A monument captures
the desperation
37:37.700 --> 37:39.900 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
of the ghetto's last days.
37:41.333 --> 37:43.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Realizing they were
all doomed anyway,
37:43.933 --> 37:45.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the haggard and hungry
who remained
37:45.700 --> 37:48.366 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
staged a desperate uprising.
37:48.433 --> 37:50.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Nearly all were killed.
37:52.466 --> 37:54.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
This was just one city's
experience
37:54.866 --> 37:57.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
in a Europe-wide Holocaust.
37:57.233 --> 37:59.266 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
In this attempted genocide,
37:59.333 --> 38:02.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Hitler tried to rid the world
of Jewish people.
38:02.600 --> 38:07.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Of the six million he killed,
half died here in Poland.
38:07.400 --> 38:09.533 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
38:09.600 --> 38:11.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
With its Jewish population
decimated,
38:12.033 --> 38:13.400 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Warsaw's next chapter
38:13.466 --> 38:16.533 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
was a second
valiant but doomed uprising --
38:16.600 --> 38:19.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
this time by the non-Jewish
Poles who remained.
38:21.033 --> 38:24.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Under Nazi occupation,
Poles had formed the biggest
38:24.200 --> 38:26.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
underground resistance army
in history.
38:28.800 --> 38:31.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Late in the war,
as the Nazis began to falter
38:31.200 --> 38:32.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and the Soviets advanced,
38:32.766 --> 38:36.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Poland's Home Army mobilized
to liberate the country.
38:36.066 --> 38:38.133 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
38:38.200 --> 38:39.900 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
But the Nazis regrouped
38:39.966 --> 38:43.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and brutally put down
the Warsaw Uprising.
38:43.566 --> 38:45.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Hitler then ordered that Warsaw
38:45.300 --> 38:48.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
be "destroyed
to its foundations."
38:48.500 --> 38:51.433 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
38:51.500 --> 38:53.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Soviet Army sat here,
across the river,
38:53.766 --> 38:55.400 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and watched and waited.
38:55.466 --> 38:57.433 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Finally,
when the Germans were gone,
38:57.500 --> 39:00.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the Russians marched in
to claim the wasteland
39:00.766 --> 39:02.300 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
that was once Warsaw,
39:02.366 --> 39:05.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
kicking off over four decades
of communist rule.
39:07.300 --> 39:10.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Like a phoenix, this city
has risen from the ashes.
39:10.233 --> 39:12.366 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
And today, Warsaw is filled
39:12.433 --> 39:14.400 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
with a happy
and youthful populace
39:14.466 --> 39:17.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
that has no living memory
of those hard times.
39:17.400 --> 39:20.866 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
39:20.933 --> 39:23.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Today's Warsaw's
is hip and trendy.
39:23.900 --> 39:27.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Hulking old buildings -- no
longer fascist or communist --
39:27.566 --> 39:30.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
are filled with a rainbow
of global food choices.
39:30.966 --> 39:33.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
39:33.366 --> 39:36.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
"Post-industrial" architecture
is all the rage.
39:38.100 --> 39:40.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Old red-brick factories
and power plants
39:40.966 --> 39:44.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
have been transformed
into convivial hubs for dining,
39:44.233 --> 39:46.233 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
drinking, and shopping.
39:46.300 --> 39:48.600 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
39:48.666 --> 39:49.866 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
I'm joined by my friend
39:49.933 --> 39:51.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and fellow guidebook author,
Cameron Hewitt
39:52.033 --> 39:53.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and the show's producer,
Simon Griffith,
39:54.033 --> 39:58.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
at Bibenda for a taste
of Warsaw's urbane foodie scene.
39:58.633 --> 40:01.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
This trendy restaurant
specializes in craft cocktails
40:01.866 --> 40:05.066 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
and Polish fusion cuisine.
40:05.133 --> 40:07.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The menu takes fresh
local ingredients
40:07.233 --> 40:09.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
like heirloom tomatoes
and beets
40:09.866 --> 40:13.166 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and gives them
an international spin --
40:13.233 --> 40:14.966 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
padrón peppers...
40:15.033 --> 40:16.500 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
falafel...
40:16.566 --> 40:18.366 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
pumpkin dumplings...
40:18.433 --> 40:21.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
all washed down
with a good Spanish wine.
40:21.766 --> 40:24.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Whether Polish or international,
40:24.200 --> 40:27.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
you can see that we thought
everything was delicious.
40:27.266 --> 40:29.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
It's a reminder of
how cosmopolitan Warsaw
40:29.933 --> 40:34.666 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
respects Polish tradition while
also embracing a global future.
40:34.733 --> 40:38.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
I can't think of a better way to
enjoy our last night in Warsaw.
40:40.966 --> 40:43.566 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
40:43.633 --> 40:46.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Heading north from Warsaw
through the rolling farmland
40:46.166 --> 40:49.233 align:start position:17.5% line:10% size:65%
of the Polish countryside,
we reach a small-town break
40:49.300 --> 40:52.200 align:start position:15% line:10% size:70%
from our big city itinerary,
Torun.
40:53.700 --> 40:55.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Torun feels affluent.
40:55.800 --> 40:58.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
In the Middle Ages, it was part
of the Hanseatic League,
40:58.800 --> 41:02.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
a trade union of northern
European merchant cities.
41:03.033 --> 41:04.633 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
Like much of northern Poland,
41:04.700 --> 41:08.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
many of its buildings
are finely crafted of red brick.
41:08.466 --> 41:10.733 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
The city has
an easygoing ambiance
41:10.800 --> 41:13.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
that comes with
the heavenly scent of...
41:13.433 --> 41:15.666 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:30%
gingerbread.
41:15.733 --> 41:18.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Every Pole knows Torun
for two reasons --
41:18.633 --> 41:21.366 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Copernicus and gingerbread.
41:21.433 --> 41:24.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
41:24.366 --> 41:26.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This was the birthplace
of the astronomer Copernicus,
41:26.966 --> 41:28.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
who, 500 years ago, established
41:28.966 --> 41:31.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
that the Earth revolves
around the Sun.
41:31.433 --> 41:35.500 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
41:35.566 --> 41:38.400 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
But today,
here in Torun anyway,
41:38.466 --> 41:42.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
a lot revolves around this --
gingerbread.
41:42.733 --> 41:47.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
This recreated old bakery is
a favorite for field trips.
41:47.400 --> 41:49.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Costumed guides teach
young students how,
41:49.733 --> 41:51.133 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
in the Middle Ages,
41:51.200 --> 41:54.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Torun's trading connections
gave local bakers access
41:54.133 --> 41:56.333 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
to exotic spices --
41:56.400 --> 41:59.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
spices like ginger,
cinnamon, and clove --
41:59.800 --> 42:02.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
and how the honey in the dough
was a natural preservative,
42:02.733 --> 42:05.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
allowing it to be traded
far and wide.
42:05.666 --> 42:07.666 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
42:07.733 --> 42:10.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Then the children get to
actually roll the dough...
42:10.366 --> 42:12.733 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
42:12.800 --> 42:15.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
...press it into
traditional molds...
42:16.400 --> 42:20.433 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
...and pop their little
creations into the oven.
42:20.500 --> 42:22.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Local gingerbread shops
let you mix-and-match
42:23.033 --> 42:24.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
a variety of tasty treats,
42:24.833 --> 42:28.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
with any combination of
jams, glazes, and chocolate.
42:28.866 --> 42:32.300 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
For locals,
the word is actually a verb --
42:32.366 --> 42:36.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
if you've eaten too much,
you have "gingerbreaded."
42:36.333 --> 42:38.933 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
42:40.466 --> 42:42.933 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
I think this will get me
to our next stop.
42:44.800 --> 42:47.166 align:start position:32.5% line:10% size:32.5%
Further north
is the Malbork Castle,
42:47.233 --> 42:49.600 align:start position:12.5% line:10% size:75%
another red-brick masterpiece.
42:49.666 --> 42:52.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Called the biggest brick castle
in the world,
42:52.166 --> 42:54.400 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
this was the 14th century
headquarters
42:54.466 --> 42:56.233 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
of the Teutonic Knights.
42:56.300 --> 42:59.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
These Germanic
Crusaders-turned-mercenaries
42:59.533 --> 43:01.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
were hired here
by a Christian duke
43:01.600 --> 43:03.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
to convert the local pagans.
43:05.166 --> 43:08.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Job done, the Teutonic Knights
decided they liked it here.
43:08.800 --> 43:11.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
So they stuck around,
built this castle,
43:11.233 --> 43:14.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and dominated northern Poland
for over a century.
43:14.466 --> 43:17.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Malbork Castle was essentially
a fortified monastery --
43:17.933 --> 43:22.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
home to monks, knights, and
their leader, the Grand Master.
43:23.433 --> 43:27.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Malbork's fortifications
are formidable indeed.
43:27.400 --> 43:29.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The complex was surrounded
by an imposing moat
43:30.033 --> 43:32.733 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and a mighty brick wall.
43:32.800 --> 43:37.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The heavy portcullis stopped
anyone who breached the moat.
43:37.166 --> 43:42.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Then, from slits up above,
archers could rain down arrows.
43:42.333 --> 43:44.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
And the inner drawbridge made
the core of the castle
43:45.000 --> 43:48.433 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
an impenetrable last refuge.
43:48.500 --> 43:50.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
While knights lived
in the outer castle,
43:50.500 --> 43:52.600 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
monks lived in the inner castle.
43:54.133 --> 43:57.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Grand Master's lavish
and well-fortified quarters
43:57.133 --> 43:58.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
with their fan-vaulted
assembly rooms
43:59.000 --> 44:00.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
and expansive dining halls
44:00.766 --> 44:03.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
were the capital
of those Teutonic Knights,
44:03.333 --> 44:05.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
from where they administered
their domain.
44:08.200 --> 44:09.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The main attractions
of Poland --
44:09.866 --> 44:12.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Kraków and most of what
we're seeing in this program --
44:12.600 --> 44:14.966 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
are connected
by the Vistula River...
44:15.033 --> 44:16.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
the commercial
and cultural thread
44:16.866 --> 44:18.566 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
that has
tied this nation together
44:18.633 --> 44:20.666 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
since its earliest days.
44:20.733 --> 44:24.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And we're just an hour's
drive from our last stop.
44:24.233 --> 44:27.300 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
Gdansk, historically
Poland's leading port,
44:27.366 --> 44:31.366 align:start position:15% line:10% size:67.5%
sits near where the Vistula
meets the Baltic Sea.
44:31.433 --> 44:33.833 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
For a thousand years,
a cultural crossroads
44:33.900 --> 44:37.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
with a rich maritime history,
architecturally it feels
44:37.266 --> 44:40.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
more Scandinavian or Dutch
than Polish.
44:41.033 --> 44:42.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
During its medieval golden age,
44:43.000 --> 44:47.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Gdansk prospered as a key member
of the Hanseatic League.
44:48.433 --> 44:50.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The Hanseatic League
was an association of
44:50.666 --> 44:53.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
over 100 cities and ports
across Northern Europe.
44:53.633 --> 44:56.900 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Its mission --
to protect and promote trade.
44:56.966 --> 44:59.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Busy hunting down pirates,
building light houses,
44:59.833 --> 45:02.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and boycotting ports
that didn't join the club,
45:02.566 --> 45:05.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
it dominated the economy
and politics in the region
45:05.333 --> 45:07.100 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
through the late Middle Ages.
45:07.166 --> 45:10.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
In a way, the Hanseatic League
was a precursor
45:10.166 --> 45:11.566 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
to the European Union.
45:11.633 --> 45:14.700 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
Its motto,
"All power to the merchants."
45:15.866 --> 45:17.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Along the embankment
is a structure
45:17.900 --> 45:19.700 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
those merchants
put to good use --
45:19.766 --> 45:23.333 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
a hulking 15th century crane.
45:23.400 --> 45:27.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Back then, this entire river
could be filled, bank to bank,
45:27.066 --> 45:29.133 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
with trading vessels.
45:29.200 --> 45:32.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Maritime trade
from distant lands made Gdansk
45:32.066 --> 45:34.233 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
both prosperous and tolerant.
45:34.300 --> 45:37.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It attracted merchants
from all over Europe
45:37.200 --> 45:40.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
who brought with them
elements of their home cultures.
45:40.533 --> 45:43.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
These were then woven
into the tapestry of the city,
45:43.333 --> 45:45.900 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
reflected in
its eclectic architecture.
45:45.966 --> 45:47.966 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
[ Bells chiming ]
45:48.033 --> 45:50.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Overhead, the Town Hall tower
holds a carillon
45:50.700 --> 45:53.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
that marks each hour
with a cheerful tune.
45:53.966 --> 46:02.633 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
46:02.700 --> 46:05.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
To better understand Gdansk,
we're joined by my friend
46:05.833 --> 46:10.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and fellow tour guide
Agnieszka Syroka.
46:10.433 --> 46:13.100 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Our first stop is the Town Hall.
46:13.166 --> 46:15.900 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
46:15.966 --> 46:20.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-So, the city was governed
from this exact room here.
46:20.533 --> 46:22.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-And the art is --
There's a lot of art here.
46:22.933 --> 46:24.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-Yeah, that's amazing, isn't it?
46:24.966 --> 46:26.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
In the middle of the vaulting,
46:26.533 --> 46:30.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
have a look at this
magnificent painting from 1608.
46:30.900 --> 46:33.400 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
46:33.466 --> 46:35.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The Vistula River starts
over there in the mountains.
46:35.633 --> 46:39.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Look at these barges
filled with the grain
46:39.666 --> 46:41.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
from all over
the Kingdom of Poland.
46:41.566 --> 46:45.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
So all the goods were shipped
from Gdansk
46:46.033 --> 46:49.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
down the Vistula River
to the Baltic Sea.
46:49.066 --> 46:50.833 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
They are taking that grain,
46:50.900 --> 46:53.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and that grain goes
all over Western Europe.
46:53.433 --> 46:55.333 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
And look, deals,
46:55.400 --> 46:58.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
businesses made here
in front of the Artus Court.
46:58.200 --> 47:01.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-These would be traders
from all over Northern Europe,
47:01.233 --> 47:02.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
part of the Hanseatic League
47:02.400 --> 47:03.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
here making a deal,
shaking hands.
47:03.800 --> 47:07.266 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-Indeed, like 1600 stock market.
47:07.333 --> 47:08.733 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
-And God's hand.
47:08.800 --> 47:11.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
So, He's holding not the church,
but the Town Hall.
47:11.633 --> 47:15.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-Exactly. Because Gdansk was
so multicultural
47:15.133 --> 47:17.333 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and multi-religious
throughout centuries,
47:17.400 --> 47:19.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
it really never mattered
what religion you are,
47:19.933 --> 47:23.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
but how much money you can bring
to the city doing your business.
47:23.466 --> 47:25.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
-The Guildhall is next door.
47:25.533 --> 47:27.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
This is a magnificent room.
47:27.566 --> 47:29.433 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
-It's a beautiful guild house,
47:29.500 --> 47:33.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
a great example
of a great social space
47:33.333 --> 47:36.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
where guilds,
medieval merchant groups, met.
47:36.400 --> 47:38.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-Okay, so this is
like a networking.
47:38.666 --> 47:42.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
-Exactly, exactly.
Exclusive social club.
47:42.633 --> 47:44.233 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
Merchants from all over Europe
47:44.300 --> 47:46.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
were coming here
to do their business.
47:46.200 --> 47:49.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Each arch belonged to one guild.
47:49.933 --> 47:54.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Imagine in front of each arch
there was goldsmith guild,
47:54.933 --> 47:57.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
beer guild, amber guild.
47:57.433 --> 47:58.800 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
They were very competitive.
47:58.866 --> 48:00.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
They were coming here
to do their business.
48:00.566 --> 48:02.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-So that the traders from Lübeck
48:02.200 --> 48:04.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
would meet the traders
from Amsterdam
48:04.200 --> 48:06.266 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and from Riga coming together.
48:06.333 --> 48:09.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-And then buying grain,
timber, coal,
48:09.366 --> 48:12.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and exporting that
all over Europe.
48:14.966 --> 48:19.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-The city is ornamented
with fine red-brick buildings.
48:19.200 --> 48:21.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
That's because here
in the marshy north of Poland,
48:21.600 --> 48:24.100 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
stone is scarce.
48:24.166 --> 48:26.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Grand buildings
like this old mill
48:26.266 --> 48:29.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
elevate bricklaying
to an art form.
48:29.233 --> 48:32.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The old Market Hall has long
provided an impressive place
48:32.300 --> 48:35.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
for farmers to sell
their produce.
48:35.466 --> 48:38.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The train station gives visitors
a red-brick welcome,
48:38.700 --> 48:40.700 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
and even
the modern shopping malls
48:40.766 --> 48:42.933 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
carry on this love of brick.
48:44.266 --> 48:47.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
And rising high above everything
is St. Mary's Church,
48:48.000 --> 48:51.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
one of the biggest
brick churches anywhere.
48:51.366 --> 48:54.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
To be both tall and stable
without the strength of stone,
48:54.500 --> 48:58.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
it was fortified
with beefy brick buttresses.
48:58.500 --> 49:01.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Stepping inside, you're struck
by the stark, austere,
49:01.466 --> 49:04.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and very white interior.
49:04.066 --> 49:06.300 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
This is a remarkable church.
49:06.366 --> 49:09.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
-Mary's Church was built
before Reformation.
49:09.200 --> 49:11.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Look at the beautiful
triptych altar,
49:11.866 --> 49:13.800 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
coronation of St. Virgin Mary.
49:13.866 --> 49:16.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-So the altar piece is
from before the Reformation.
49:16.500 --> 49:17.633 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Exactly.
49:17.700 --> 49:19.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
And then the city
converted to Protestant.
49:19.766 --> 49:22.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
And what was really important
was the pulpit,
49:22.766 --> 49:24.333 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
because of the Word of God,
49:24.400 --> 49:29.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and music coming from
magnificent organ.
49:29.633 --> 49:32.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
-Look at that pipe organ.
49:32.233 --> 49:34.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
This is like a pavement
of tombstones.
49:34.200 --> 49:40.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-Exactly. 500 gravestones of the
wealthiest merchants of Gdansk
49:40.666 --> 49:43.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
who wanted to be buried here
in their parish church.
49:43.566 --> 49:45.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
And if not buried in a tomb,
49:45.200 --> 49:46.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
you could commemorate
your family
49:46.766 --> 49:48.366 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
on the wall with an epitaph.
49:48.433 --> 49:52.333 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
49:52.400 --> 49:53.866 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
-In the shadow of the church,
49:53.933 --> 49:57.933 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
atmospheric Mariacka Street is
lined with traditional porches,
49:58.000 --> 50:01.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
clever gargoyles, and
vendors selling the prized amber
50:01.400 --> 50:03.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
that the Baltic Coast is
so famous for.
50:03.766 --> 50:10.533 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
50:10.600 --> 50:12.333 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
For amber as high art,
50:12.400 --> 50:15.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the striking Amber Museum
fills an old mill
50:15.333 --> 50:19.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
with precious deposits
of this fossilized tree sap.
50:19.400 --> 50:22.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Much of the world's amber
comes from Poland.
50:22.066 --> 50:24.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Amber, which can be
tens of millions of years old,
50:24.866 --> 50:27.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
comes in shades of white,
yellow, and brown.
50:29.033 --> 50:31.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It's a favorite medium
of local artisans
50:31.600 --> 50:34.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
who create exquisite items
50:34.166 --> 50:36.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
from an organically
sculptured candelabra,
50:36.933 --> 50:40.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
to a chessboard that
would mesmerize a grand master.
50:40.866 --> 50:44.200 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
There's an exquisite
miniature storage chest,
50:44.266 --> 50:48.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and even furniture such
as this gorgeous writing desk.
50:48.366 --> 50:53.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
50:53.833 --> 50:57.800 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Gdansk lived its most dramatic
moments in the 20th century.
50:57.866 --> 51:01.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
World War II began right here
in 1939, when Hitler invaded.
51:01.566 --> 51:03.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And those cranes mark
the shipyard
51:03.666 --> 51:05.900 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
where, 40 years later in 1980,
51:05.966 --> 51:09.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
the Soviet Bloc
finally began to crack.
51:09.066 --> 51:10.766 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
During communist times,
51:10.833 --> 51:14.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Gdansk was home
to the massive Lenin Shipyard.
51:14.233 --> 51:18.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
In 1980, after decades
of frustrations and struggles,
51:18.200 --> 51:20.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
shipyard workers went on strike.
51:22.033 --> 51:25.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
They created a trade union
called Solidarity.
51:25.733 --> 51:28.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Locking themselves
inside the shipyard,
51:28.166 --> 51:29.433 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
they refused to work
51:29.500 --> 51:33.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and scrawled their list
of 21 demands on plywood.
51:34.566 --> 51:37.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
A fired shipyard electrician,
Lech Walesa,
51:37.366 --> 51:38.866 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
heard news of the strike.
51:38.933 --> 51:41.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
He came here and
literally climbed over the wall
51:41.333 --> 51:43.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
to get inside
and join his comrades.
51:43.500 --> 51:46.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
The strike had its leader.
51:46.233 --> 51:48.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
The European Solidarity Center,
51:48.300 --> 51:50.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
with its industrial-strength
architecture
51:50.666 --> 51:52.133 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and inspiring exhibits,
51:52.200 --> 51:55.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
tells the story
both vividly and proudly.
51:56.033 --> 51:59.700 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
For 18 days, 17,000 workers --
51:59.766 --> 52:02.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
welders, machinists,
and steel-workers --
52:02.100 --> 52:04.466 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
stood strong.
52:04.533 --> 52:06.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Their only connection
to the outside world
52:06.800 --> 52:08.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
was to come to the gate.
52:08.600 --> 52:11.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
There they'd pass messages
to family members
52:11.266 --> 52:14.700 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and receive food, supplies,
and encouragement.
52:14.766 --> 52:17.266 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
52:17.333 --> 52:20.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The strikers were hungry,
tired, and scared,
52:20.266 --> 52:22.933 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
but they were both inspired
and emboldened
52:23.000 --> 52:26.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
by the new Polish pope,
John Paul II.
52:26.666 --> 52:29.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Finally, the communist
authorities gave in
52:29.166 --> 52:31.100 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and legalized the union.
52:31.166 --> 52:33.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Half of the nation's workforce
joined Solidarity,
52:34.033 --> 52:36.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
and change was in the air.
52:37.466 --> 52:39.833 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
But then,
after 16 hopeful months,
52:39.900 --> 52:43.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Polish authorities,
fearful of Soviet intervention,
52:43.100 --> 52:45.166 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
declared martial law.
52:45.233 --> 52:47.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Tanks rumbled through
the snowy streets of Poland,
52:48.033 --> 52:51.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and the riot police
cracked down on dissidents.
52:51.733 --> 52:55.400 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Solidarity went underground,
yet gained momentum.
52:56.700 --> 53:00.733 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
In 1989, the Round Table Talks
brought about elections.
53:00.800 --> 53:01.866 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
The result?
53:01.933 --> 53:04.266 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
Solidarity,
now a political party,
53:04.333 --> 53:06.900 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
won every available seat.
53:06.966 --> 53:08.800 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
53:08.866 --> 53:12.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
These first cracks in
the Eastern Bloc spread quickly.
53:12.600 --> 53:15.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Within a few months,
the Berlin Wall fell,
53:15.066 --> 53:16.433 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
borders opened up,
53:16.500 --> 53:19.366 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
communist regimes voted
themselves out of existence,
53:19.433 --> 53:21.266 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
and Lech Walesa was elected
53:21.333 --> 53:25.266 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
the first post-communist
president of Poland.
53:25.333 --> 53:28.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Today, Gdansk,
mindful of its history,
53:28.500 --> 53:31.066 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
is a forward-looking community.
53:31.133 --> 53:34.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Facing the skyline
of old Gdansk across the river
53:34.200 --> 53:35.666 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
is a modern development.
53:37.200 --> 53:40.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Only recently rebuilt
from WWII bombings,
53:40.133 --> 53:43.600 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
it echoes
the historic roof lines.
53:43.666 --> 53:47.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
With its 21st century affluence,
Gdansk provides its people
53:47.900 --> 53:50.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
a stylish boardwalk
for good living.
53:50.866 --> 53:53.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Strolling here,
you feel the promise
53:53.400 --> 53:55.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
of a bright Polish future.
53:55.833 --> 53:59.400 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:2.5%
♪
53:59.466 --> 54:01.400 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The resilience
of Poland's culture
54:01.466 --> 54:04.000 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and the warmth of its people
inspire me.
54:04.066 --> 54:06.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
And learning from
this country's hard history,
54:06.633 --> 54:09.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
I'm reminded that freedom,
peace, and prosperity
54:09.900 --> 54:11.100 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
are hard-earned
54:11.166 --> 54:13.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and that we have lots
to be thankful for.
54:13.466 --> 54:14.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
I hope you've enjoyed our look
54:14.833 --> 54:16.833 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
at perhaps Europe's
most underrated
54:16.900 --> 54:18.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and surprising country.
54:18.433 --> 54:19.700 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
I'm Rick Steves.
54:19.766 --> 54:22.366 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on traveling!
54:24.766 --> 54:27.166 align:start position:47.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-It's filled with
wild rose jam.
54:27.233 --> 54:29.066 align:start position:87.5% line:84.66% size:2.5%
♪
54:29.133 --> 54:30.700 align:start position:57.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-[ Chuckles ]
-Whoa!
54:30.766 --> 54:32.700 align:start position:47.5% line:79.33% size:40%
It's a colorful,
historic port city
54:32.766 --> 54:35.533 align:start position:47.5% line:79.33% size:37.5%
with a dramatic
20th century story.
54:35.600 --> 54:37.033 align:start position:60% line:84.66% size:30%
[ Chuckles ]
54:37.100 --> 54:40.633 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:50%
This is a -- This --
[ Both chuckle ]
54:40.700 --> 54:42.566 align:start position:80% line:84.66% size:10%
-Go.
54:42.633 --> 54:44.666 align:start position:65% line:79.33% size:22.5%
-Oh. Ohh!
[ Laughter ]
54:45.866 --> 54:47.800 align:start position:60% line:79.33% size:30%
Like painted
wooden plates
54:47.866 --> 54:48.766 align:start position:57.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
from mountain
forests.
54:48.833 --> 54:50.400 align:start position:65% line:84.66% size:25%
[ Laughs ]
54:50.466 --> 54:55.433 align:start position:87.5% line:84.66% size:2.5%
♪