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- Hi, I'm Rick Steves,

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back with more of 
the best of Europe.

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This time we're enjoying

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some underappreciated corners 
of Germany, both old and new.

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It's Hamburg and 
a whole lot more.

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Thanks for joining us.

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(gentle thrilling music)

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(gentle thrilling music ending)

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Germany is Europe's leading 
country in many ways.

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It dominates Europe's 
economy today

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and has long had a 
huge impact on events

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shaping the continent.

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We'll see that by exploring 
Hamburg, its mighty port city,

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and then heading south

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to the stomping grounds 
of a single monk

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who, 500 years ago, 
changed the world.

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After enjoying Hamburg's 
inviting parks and lakes,

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we'll see how its 
architecture ranges

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from some of Hitler's leftover 
giant concrete bunkers

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to cutting-edge 
modern buildings.

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We'll explore a vibrant 
counterculture neighborhood,

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and, after marveling 
at Hamburg's vast 
warehouse district,

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we'll take the best 
harbor tour in Europe

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sailing under its 
striking new skyline

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capped by a towering 
new concert hall.

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Then we'll delve into the 
places where Martin Luther

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kicked off the 
Reformation 500 years ago,

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from the city where he 
preached and taught,

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to the castle in 
which he hid out

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from the Holy Roman Emperor.

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We'll learn about the 
chaos he triggered,

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along with the progress.

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Finally, for a contrast to 
all that stern Protestantism,

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we'll visit exuberantly 
Catholic Wurzburg

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and admire the elegance 
of its Residence,

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the palace of the prince 
bishops of Franconia.

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In the heart of Northern 
Europe lies Germany.

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After touring Hamburg, we head 
south to the Luther cities

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of Wittenberg and Erfurt,

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and finish in Wurzburg.

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Hamburg is Germany's 
second largest city.

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Like other second cities,

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Chicago, Glasgow, 
St. Petersburg,

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it has a spirited pride.

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While yet to be discovered 
by American travelers,

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it's a popular destination 
with Germans for its music,

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theater, and riverside energy.

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A century ago, Hamburg's port

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was the third 
largest in the world

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with strong connections 
both east and west.

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Heavy damage in World War II

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devastated its 
commercial center.

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During the Cold 
War which followed,

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trade to the east was cut off,

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port traffic dwindled and 
so did the city's influence.

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But Hamburg's been 
enthusiastically rebuilt.

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And since the 
reunification of Germany,

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just a generation ago,

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it's gaining back 
its former status

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as a leading trade center,

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and it's become one of 
Germany's most desirable

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places to live.

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The city's delightful lakes 
were created in the Middle Ages

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when townsfolk built a mill 
that dammed the local river.

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Back in the 1950s,

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a law guaranteed public access 
to the lake for everyone.

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And today, peaceful 
paths and bike lanes

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are a hit with locals.

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On a nice day, the lake 
is dotted with sailboats.

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On the far side,

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lush inlets reach into fancy 
residential neighborhoods.

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Along with plenty of 
downtown parkland,

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the lakes provide Hamburg,

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one of Germany's 
greenest cities,

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with an elegant promenade

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that comes complete with 
top-of-the-line shops.

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Just a block away, 
its massive city hall,

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built in the 19th century, 
overlooks the lively scene.

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It's flanked by graceful arcades

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and surrounded by 
plenty of commerce.

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It's bold architecture 
and maritime atmosphere

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gives this northernmost 
German city

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an almost Scandinavian feel.

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With its trading heritage 
and a strong economy,

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Hamburg's downtown 
showcases a wealthy city

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that rose like a phoenix 
from a terrible recent past.

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(gentle music)

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You'd hardly know 
that this was one

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of the most heavily 
bombed cities

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in Germany in World War II.

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With its strategic port, 
munitions factories,

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and transportation links,

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Hamburg was a prime 
target for Allied bombers.

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American and British commanders 
had an innovative plan

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with a horrific goal.

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Its name? Operation Gomorrah.

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On July 27th, 1943,

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they hit targets first with 
explosive bombs to open roofs,

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break water mains, 
and tear up streets.

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The purpose? To make it hard 
for firefighters to respond.

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Then came a hellish onslaught 
of incendiary bombs.

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700 bombers concentrated 
their attack

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on a relatively small area.

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The result was a firestorm 
never seen before.

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The intensity of the bombs

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actually created a 
tornado of raging flames

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reaching horrific temperatures.

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(poignant music)

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Thousands suffocated inside 
their air-raid shelters,

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and those outside were 
sucked off their feet

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disappearing up into 
the fiery vortex.

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In three hours, the inferno 
killed over 35,000 people,

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left hundreds of 
thousands homeless,

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and reduced eight 
square miles of Hamburg

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to rubble and ashes.

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Somehow the towering spire 
of St. Nicholas Church

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survived the bombing.

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It and the ruins of 
the church itself

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are now a memorial left 
to commemorate those lost

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and to remind future generations 
of the horrors of war.

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Where the original 
altar once stood

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is now a simply, yet 
poignant, concrete altar

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by Oskar Kokoschka.

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The memorial's underground 
museum quietly tells the story.

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You'll see scorched 
and melted fragments

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demonstrating the 
heat of the firestorm,

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and examples of the futility

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of trying to survive 
such a bombing.

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The museum also shows foreign 
cities that Germany destroyed.

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That's because 
Germans make a point

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to acknowledge the suffering 
they inflicted on others

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when remembering 
their own suffering.

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(poignant music)

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Though Hamburg is 
mostly rebuilt,

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many World War II-era bunkers

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were just too solid to destroy.

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So they survive,

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incorporated into today's 
contemporary scene.

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This mammoth structure 
has 10-foot thick

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reinforced concrete walls.

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With windows cut 
through the concrete,

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it's surprisingly inviting.

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While once hosting gunners

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trying to shoot 
down Allied planes,

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today, bomb-hardened staircases

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lead to music shops 
and dance clubs.

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(drums beating)

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And drummers here will 
never draw complaints

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from their neighbors.

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(drums beating)

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(gentle upbeat music)

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Nearby, another bunker, this 
one with colorful graffiti,

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is now a climbing wall in a 
pleasant neighborhood park.

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While Germany is known for 
its order and efficiency,

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that social conformity 
comes with a flip side,

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neighborhoods well known for 
their energetic counterculture.

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Hamburg's trendy Schanze quarter

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offers a breath of 
fresh cultural air.

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A popular neighborhood, 
it has so many cafes,

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its main street is nicknamed 
"Latte Macchiato Boulevard."

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This fun-loving edge is 
nothing new to Hamburg.

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(gentle upbeat music)

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Nearby, Hamburg's 
Reeperbahn neighborhood

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has long been Germany's most 
famous entertainment zone.

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It gained notoriety as a rough 
and sleazy sailors' quarter

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filled with nightclubs 
and brothels.

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But, as the city's changed,

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so has its 
entertainment district.

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In one generation, the 
Reeperbahn has earned a new,

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more respectable image,

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a destination for 
theater and live music.

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Today this street,

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where the Beatles launched 
their careers back in 1960,

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is a fun scene lined 
with playhouses.

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Considered the Broadway of 
Germany for its many musicals,

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the boulevard 
attracts theatergoers

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from all over the country.

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Hamburg, 60 miles from the 
North Sea, on the Elbe River,

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has long been a vital port.

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Its waterfront is designed

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to accommodate the 
Elbe's 13-foot tides.

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And, in anticipation 
of a rising sea level

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and potentially 
devastating storm surges,

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miles of embankments have 
recently been fortified.

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Along with making 
the city safer,

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this stretch comes 
with a design element

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that gives Hamburg a delightful 
new park-like stretch

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of harbor front.

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(gentle bright music)

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Long a busy ferry terminal,

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this floating dock is now 
a thriving tourist zone.

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From here, with the 
aroma of pickled herring

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and French fries,

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you can enjoy the harbor and 
the energy of the city's port.

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For German Americans, Hamburg 
has a special meaning,

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because their ancestors likely 
sailed from this harbor.

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Between 1850 and 1930,

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millions of Germans emigrated 
to the United States

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from right here.

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The port has always been a 
central feature of Hamburg.

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It evolves and grows 
with the city's needs,

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and with changes in 
shipping technology.

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The vast Speicherstadt, 
or "Warehouse City,"

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was originally a 
seemingly endless grid

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of riverside warehouses.

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Today, these buildings, 
once filled with cotton,

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rubber, and tobacco, 
house engaging museums,

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offices, and hip restaurants.

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While those venerable 
warehouses survived,

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much of Hamburg's old 
port was abandoned

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when the shipping 
industry moved to a larger

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and more modern port nearby.

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Then, a generation 
ago, the city realized

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that what had become a 
derelict industrial wasteland

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was potentially 
prime real estate.

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The result, HafenCity, a huge 
urban development project.

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With this new green and 
integrated urban center,

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downtown Hamburg became 
about 40 percent bigger,

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and, once again, the 
city faces its river.

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The re-energized district 
seems a city in itself,

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mixing its maritime heritage

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with striking 
modern architecture.

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Worked into the plan 
are both high-end condos

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and affordable 
subsidized housing.

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Hamburg has created 
a healthy mix

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of business, 
culture, and leisure,

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convenient for the modern 
citizen without a car.

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Today, city planners 
from around Europe

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look to Hamburg for inspiration

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in designing integrated 
urban centers.

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The centerpiece of HafenCity

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is the striking Elbphilharmonie,

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a combination concert 
hall, public plaza,

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hotel, and apartment complex.

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Its daring design and 
huge size fit in well

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with the massive scale 
of the surrounding port.

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And, when approached by water,

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it resembles the looming 
prow of the steamer ships

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that first put Hamburg 
on the world map.

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(gentle bright music)

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An unforgettable capper 
to a Hamburg visit

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is its harbor tour,

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the best of its kind in Europe.

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You'll see plenty of Hamburg's 
bold new architecture,

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as well as its more 
established beach communities,

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lined with mansions.

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But mostly, the hour-long cruise

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gets you up close to 
Hamburg's shipping industry,

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all those enormous 
container ships,

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towering cranes, and dry docks.

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Accommodating 12,000 
vessels a year,

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it's Europe's 
second-busiest harbor

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00:12:07,500 --> 00:12:10,666
and earns the tag-line 
"Europe's gateway to the world,

254
00:12:10,666 --> 00:12:13,100
and the world's 
gateway to Europe."

255
00:12:15,433 --> 00:12:18,966
Germany is compact, with an 
impressive infrastructure.

256
00:12:18,966 --> 00:12:21,533
Within a few hours, 
we're in Eastern Germany,

257
00:12:21,533 --> 00:12:23,600
and Martin Luther Country.

258
00:12:23,600 --> 00:12:26,500
In 1517, the German 
monk Martin Luther

259
00:12:26,500 --> 00:12:30,200
was a professor here in the 
university town of Wittenberg.

260
00:12:30,200 --> 00:12:32,533
As professors routinely 
did back then,

261
00:12:32,533 --> 00:12:34,433
he tacked some 
points for discussion

262
00:12:34,433 --> 00:12:35,833
on the door of the church,

263
00:12:35,833 --> 00:12:37,533
which served as a 
kind of bulletin board

264
00:12:37,533 --> 00:12:39,400
for the university community.

265
00:12:39,400 --> 00:12:40,766
These 95 points,

266
00:12:40,766 --> 00:12:43,400
questioning practices of 
the Roman Catholic Church,

267
00:12:43,400 --> 00:12:45,300
kicked off more 
than a discussion.

268
00:12:45,300 --> 00:12:48,700
They kicked off the 
Protestant Reformation.

269
00:12:48,700 --> 00:12:51,600
Martin Luther unleashed 
a world of change.

270
00:12:51,600 --> 00:12:54,633
The Reformation was a 
political and theological storm

271
00:12:54,633 --> 00:12:56,800
that divided Christendom 
in Western Europe

272
00:12:56,800 --> 00:12:59,833
into Roman Catholics 
and Protestants.

273
00:12:59,833 --> 00:13:02,100
It ignited a century 
of religious wars

274
00:13:02,100 --> 00:13:04,733
and, along with the 
humanism of the Renaissance,

275
00:13:04,733 --> 00:13:08,000
it helped bring 
western civilization 
out of the Middle Ages

276
00:13:08,000 --> 00:13:09,666
and into the modern world.

277
00:13:12,400 --> 00:13:14,966
2017 marked the 
500th anniversary

278
00:13:14,966 --> 00:13:16,933
of the Protestant Reformation,

279
00:13:16,933 --> 00:13:20,066
and Eastern Germany is 
famous for its Lutherstadts,

280
00:13:20,066 --> 00:13:21,466
or "Luther cities,"

281
00:13:21,466 --> 00:13:24,300
and sights associated 
with that tumultuous time.

282
00:13:24,300 --> 00:13:27,700
The three most interesting 
Reformation stops are Erfurt,

283
00:13:27,700 --> 00:13:30,000
where Luther studied 
and first became a monk;

284
00:13:30,000 --> 00:13:32,466
Wartburg, the castle 
where he famously hid out

285
00:13:32,466 --> 00:13:34,433
and translated the 
"Bible" into German;

286
00:13:34,433 --> 00:13:36,266
and Wittenberg, where he taught,

287
00:13:36,266 --> 00:13:38,300
preached, and led 
the Reformation.

288
00:13:39,433 --> 00:13:41,933
Luther went to law 
school here in Erfurt,

289
00:13:41,933 --> 00:13:44,433
and today, this 
half-timbered medieval town,

290
00:13:44,433 --> 00:13:47,033
with a shallow river 
gurgling through its center,

291
00:13:47,033 --> 00:13:49,133
remains an charming destination

292
00:13:49,133 --> 00:13:51,366
that Luther himself 
would recognize.

293
00:13:52,666 --> 00:13:55,066
Erfurt's atmospheric 
Merchants' Bridge

294
00:13:55,066 --> 00:13:57,266
is lined with shops and homes.

295
00:13:57,266 --> 00:14:02,133
Then, as now, merchants live 
upstairs above their shops.

296
00:14:02,133 --> 00:14:05,366
This is the land of fairy 
tales and the Brothers Grimm,

297
00:14:05,366 --> 00:14:08,633
fine woodcarvers, 
and fanciful puppets.

298
00:14:08,633 --> 00:14:11,866
You can peek into the 
workshop of Martin Gobsch.

299
00:14:11,866 --> 00:14:13,300
Observe him at work.

300
00:14:14,700 --> 00:14:16,433
And don't leave 
without popping a coin

301
00:14:16,433 --> 00:14:17,933
into his tiny theater.

302
00:14:17,933 --> 00:14:19,733
(gentle whimsical music)

303
00:14:19,733 --> 00:14:22,233
The evil queen welcomes 
you into the dreamy world

304
00:14:22,233 --> 00:14:23,133
of Snow White.

305
00:14:25,166 --> 00:14:27,100
Separate vignettes 
tell the story.

306
00:14:27,100 --> 00:14:30,600
(gentle whimsical music)

307
00:14:32,866 --> 00:14:34,700
It all leads to 
the happy ending,

308
00:14:34,700 --> 00:14:38,000
when the charming prince 
whisks Snow White away.

309
00:14:40,000 --> 00:14:42,533
Back in 1505, as 
a young student,

310
00:14:42,533 --> 00:14:44,066
Martin Luther became a monk

311
00:14:44,066 --> 00:14:46,533
in Erfurt's 
Augustinian monastery.

312
00:14:47,633 --> 00:14:50,100
In this church he 
gave his first Mass.

313
00:14:51,533 --> 00:14:54,233
Its little museum 
includes Luther artifacts

314
00:14:54,233 --> 00:14:57,000
and the simple cell where 
the novice monk lived.

315
00:14:58,133 --> 00:15:00,666
Little did they know 
that this humble novice

316
00:15:00,666 --> 00:15:03,300
would change the course 
of European history.

317
00:15:06,633 --> 00:15:08,633
Nearby is Wittenberg.

318
00:15:09,900 --> 00:15:12,466
Around 1500, the local 
ruler, Frederick the Wise,

319
00:15:12,466 --> 00:15:15,200
was establishing the 
town as his capital.

320
00:15:15,200 --> 00:15:16,633
He invited young Martin Luther

321
00:15:16,633 --> 00:15:19,500
to join the faculty 
of his university.

322
00:15:19,500 --> 00:15:22,366
The main square is 
dominated by its town hall

323
00:15:22,366 --> 00:15:25,133
and a statue remembering 
the "Great Reformer."

324
00:15:26,333 --> 00:15:28,900
Wittenberg's top sight 
is the Lutherhaus,

325
00:15:28,900 --> 00:15:30,633
where Luther lived.

326
00:15:30,633 --> 00:15:32,766
Today, it's an excellent museum

327
00:15:32,766 --> 00:15:35,100
displaying original artifacts,

328
00:15:35,100 --> 00:15:37,400
the pulpit from which 
Luther preached,

329
00:15:37,400 --> 00:15:40,700
portraits of Luther and 
the other reformers,

330
00:15:40,700 --> 00:15:43,800
and the "Bible" Luther 
boldly translated from Latin

331
00:15:43,800 --> 00:15:45,433
into the people's language.

332
00:15:46,666 --> 00:15:49,133
500 years ago, the 
selling of forgiveness

333
00:15:49,133 --> 00:15:51,833
and church corruption 
stoked public discontent

334
00:15:51,833 --> 00:15:52,933
with the Roman Church,

335
00:15:52,933 --> 00:15:55,066
which led to the Reformation.

336
00:15:55,066 --> 00:15:57,066
This is a letter of indulgence,

337
00:15:57,066 --> 00:16:00,800
one of countless fundraising 
coupons the Church issued.

338
00:16:00,800 --> 00:16:03,700
These were sold to the 
faithful for religious favors

339
00:16:03,700 --> 00:16:07,600
such as reducing time for 
dead loved ones in purgatory.

340
00:16:07,600 --> 00:16:09,466
Their money would 
fill boxes like this,

341
00:16:09,466 --> 00:16:11,033
and eventually ended up in Rome

342
00:16:11,033 --> 00:16:13,566
to fund the pope's lavish world.

343
00:16:13,566 --> 00:16:18,200
Corruption like this inspired 
Luther to confront the Church.

344
00:16:18,200 --> 00:16:20,666
And it was the invention 
of the printing press

345
00:16:20,666 --> 00:16:23,766
with movable type by Gutenberg 
in the same generation

346
00:16:23,766 --> 00:16:27,166
that enabled reformers like 
Luther to spread their ideas.

347
00:16:28,266 --> 00:16:30,466
Luther wrote in the 
peoples' language,

348
00:16:30,466 --> 00:16:33,900
and sold more than a quarter 
million booklets like these.

349
00:16:33,900 --> 00:16:36,933
Like social media empowers 
popular movements today,

350
00:16:36,933 --> 00:16:38,933
Luther's pamphlets went viral.

351
00:16:38,933 --> 00:16:41,866
He was the bestselling German 
writer of the 16th century.

352
00:16:43,366 --> 00:16:46,600
The Wartburg Castle is a popular 
stop on the Luther trail.

353
00:16:47,866 --> 00:16:49,733
When Luther spoke out 
against Church corruption,

354
00:16:49,733 --> 00:16:53,333
he was declared an outlaw and 
needed to run for his life.

355
00:16:53,333 --> 00:16:56,166
A sympathetic German 
prince gave him refuge.

356
00:16:56,166 --> 00:16:58,133
Disguised and under a fake name,

357
00:16:58,133 --> 00:17:01,133
Luther hid out here 
in this castle.

358
00:17:01,133 --> 00:17:02,966
The actions of 
this solitary monk

359
00:17:02,966 --> 00:17:04,900
brought far-reaching changes.

360
00:17:05,933 --> 00:17:07,433
Believing that 
everyone should be able

361
00:17:07,433 --> 00:17:09,066
to read the word of God,

362
00:17:09,066 --> 00:17:11,766
Luther began the daunting 
and dangerous task

363
00:17:11,766 --> 00:17:13,466
of translating the New Testament

364
00:17:13,466 --> 00:17:16,433
from the original Ancient 
Greek into German.

365
00:17:16,433 --> 00:17:19,233
He used simplified 
language, as he said,

366
00:17:19,233 --> 00:17:21,833
"Like a mother talking 
to her children."

367
00:17:21,833 --> 00:17:23,800
Just as the King James 
version of the "Bible"

368
00:17:23,800 --> 00:17:25,133
did for English,

369
00:17:25,133 --> 00:17:27,166
Luther's translation 
helped to establish

370
00:17:27,166 --> 00:17:30,533
a standard German language 
that's used to this day.

371
00:17:30,533 --> 00:17:33,866
Luther's translation brought 
the "Bible" to the masses.

372
00:17:33,866 --> 00:17:35,933
As Germans actually 
read the "Bible,"

373
00:17:35,933 --> 00:17:37,766
they saw, as Luther had,

374
00:17:37,766 --> 00:17:40,266
that there was no 
mention of indulgences,

375
00:17:40,266 --> 00:17:42,966
purgatory, or even a pope.

376
00:17:42,966 --> 00:17:44,600
Just as the Church had feared,

377
00:17:44,600 --> 00:17:47,866
this further fanned 
the fires of reform.

378
00:17:47,866 --> 00:17:49,833
This part of Germany 
was ground zero

379
00:17:49,833 --> 00:17:51,666
for the century 
of religious wars

380
00:17:51,666 --> 00:17:54,533
Luther's reforms 
unwittingly unleashed.

381
00:17:58,100 --> 00:18:00,266
A vivid portrayal of 
that tumultuous time

382
00:18:00,266 --> 00:18:02,033
with an intriguing 
communist twist

383
00:18:02,033 --> 00:18:04,833
can be seen above the 
town of Bad Frankenhausen.

384
00:18:07,033 --> 00:18:10,300
It's a huge 360-degree 
panoramic painting

385
00:18:10,300 --> 00:18:11,766
commissioned in the 1980s

386
00:18:11,766 --> 00:18:14,000
by the communist East 
German government.

387
00:18:14,000 --> 00:18:16,900
(gentle dramatic music)

388
00:18:16,900 --> 00:18:20,233
"The Peasants' War 
Panorama," 400 feet around,

389
00:18:20,233 --> 00:18:23,200
was painted as 
communist propaganda.

390
00:18:23,200 --> 00:18:25,333
It remembers the 6,000 peasants

391
00:18:25,333 --> 00:18:28,033
who were slaughtered 
in a single battle.

392
00:18:28,033 --> 00:18:29,766
Armed with little 
more than shovels,

393
00:18:29,766 --> 00:18:31,333
they rose up against the Church

394
00:18:31,333 --> 00:18:33,866
and the ruling class 
during the Reformation.

395
00:18:35,300 --> 00:18:36,900
The detail is vivid.

396
00:18:36,900 --> 00:18:39,233
(gentle dramatic music)

397
00:18:39,233 --> 00:18:41,966
Using this popular 
revolt 500 years ago,

398
00:18:41,966 --> 00:18:45,800
it hammers home a familiar 
theme during the Cold War.

399
00:18:45,800 --> 00:18:50,000
Whether 16th-century peasants 
or 20th-century workers,

400
00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:53,433
the people's struggle 
is long and ongoing.

401
00:18:53,433 --> 00:18:55,600
(gentle dramatic music)

402
00:18:55,600 --> 00:18:59,066
The panorama portrays more 
than just a horrible battle.

403
00:18:59,066 --> 00:19:01,133
It represents the 
bloody transition

404
00:19:01,133 --> 00:19:04,500
between the medieval 
and the modern worlds.

405
00:19:04,500 --> 00:19:07,666
At the base gather 
20 great humanists,

406
00:19:07,666 --> 00:19:10,733
change agents at the 
end of the Middle Ages,

407
00:19:10,733 --> 00:19:15,033
Luther, Erasmus, Copernicus, 
Columbus, and more.

408
00:19:15,033 --> 00:19:18,466
Above them rages the colossal 
battle under a rainbow,

409
00:19:18,466 --> 00:19:20,266
imperial troops on the left,

410
00:19:20,266 --> 00:19:22,500
doomed rabble on the right.

411
00:19:22,500 --> 00:19:26,533
Nearby, an aristocratic couple 
dances before a gallows.

412
00:19:26,533 --> 00:19:29,566
The message? The 
elites continue to win.

413
00:19:29,566 --> 00:19:32,966
(gentle dramatic music)

414
00:19:37,166 --> 00:19:40,100
Until German unification 
in the late 1800s,

415
00:19:40,100 --> 00:19:41,833
Germany was fragmented,

416
00:19:41,833 --> 00:19:44,900
a collection of small 
independent states.

417
00:19:44,900 --> 00:19:46,300
After the Reformation,

418
00:19:46,300 --> 00:19:49,433
those in the north ended 
up Lutheran, or Protestant,

419
00:19:49,433 --> 00:19:52,300
and those in the south 
remained Roman Catholic.

420
00:19:53,366 --> 00:19:55,133
A few hours south 
of Luther Country

421
00:19:55,133 --> 00:19:57,233
takes us across that 
religious divide

422
00:19:57,233 --> 00:20:00,866
and into the enthusiastically 
Catholic region of Franconia

423
00:20:00,866 --> 00:20:03,933
and its capital city, Wurzburg.

424
00:20:03,933 --> 00:20:05,933
Wurzburg is surrounded 
by vineyards

425
00:20:05,933 --> 00:20:08,100
and straddles the Main River.

426
00:20:08,100 --> 00:20:09,900
Like so many German cities,

427
00:20:09,900 --> 00:20:13,166
it was devastated by 
World War II bombs.

428
00:20:13,166 --> 00:20:15,333
But, while cities like 
Hamburg and Frankfurt

429
00:20:15,333 --> 00:20:17,466
rebuilt on a modern grid plan,

430
00:20:17,466 --> 00:20:19,233
Wurzburg recreated its charm

431
00:20:19,233 --> 00:20:22,600
by rebuilding according 
to its original layout.

432
00:20:22,600 --> 00:20:24,466
The marketplace is 
an inviting scene.

433
00:20:24,466 --> 00:20:26,700
Its 200-year-old obelisk

434
00:20:26,700 --> 00:20:30,000
features Romantic maidens 
selling their produce.

435
00:20:31,466 --> 00:20:35,600
And to this day, the square 
still hosts a charming market.

436
00:20:35,600 --> 00:20:38,733
(gentle bright music)

437
00:20:40,266 --> 00:20:43,100
This tourist-friendly 
town is easy to navigate

438
00:20:43,100 --> 00:20:45,000
by foot or by streetcar.

439
00:20:46,933 --> 00:20:48,200
Today, nearly a quarter

440
00:20:48,200 --> 00:20:50,766
of its 130,000 
residents are students,

441
00:20:50,766 --> 00:20:53,966
making the town feel 
young and vibrant.

442
00:20:53,966 --> 00:20:56,000
The town bridge, from 
the 12th century,

443
00:20:56,000 --> 00:20:58,266
is one of Germany's oldest.

444
00:20:58,266 --> 00:20:59,800
It's decorated with statues

445
00:20:59,800 --> 00:21:02,800
of Wurzburg's favorite 
saints and princes.

446
00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:06,200
And it's busy with people 
out and enjoying the moment.

447
00:21:06,200 --> 00:21:09,800
Scenes like this are ideal 
for connecting with locals.

448
00:21:09,800 --> 00:21:13,033
(gentle bright music)

449
00:21:14,700 --> 00:21:18,233
Wurzburg was the capital of 
the German state of Franconia.

450
00:21:18,233 --> 00:21:21,033
In the 1700s, it was 
ruled by a prince-bishop.

451
00:21:21,033 --> 00:21:24,033
He exercised both secular 
and religious authority,

452
00:21:24,033 --> 00:21:26,766
and this grand 
palace was his home.

453
00:21:26,766 --> 00:21:29,033
Opulent as a German Versailles,

454
00:21:29,033 --> 00:21:30,466
the prince-bishop's Residence

455
00:21:30,466 --> 00:21:32,300
is the main attraction 
of Wurzburg.

456
00:21:33,566 --> 00:21:36,900
Imagine VIP guests arriving 
for lavish parties.

457
00:21:36,900 --> 00:21:38,633
Met here by the prince-bishop,

458
00:21:38,633 --> 00:21:41,666
they'd glide gracefully 
up this elegant stairway,

459
00:21:41,666 --> 00:21:46,066
enjoying a grand fresco 
as it opens up overhead.

460
00:21:46,066 --> 00:21:50,233
Dating from about 1750 and by 
the Venetian master Tiepolo,

461
00:21:50,233 --> 00:21:52,633
it illustrates the 
greatness of Europe

462
00:21:52,633 --> 00:21:54,666
with Wurzburg at its center.

463
00:21:55,933 --> 00:21:58,566
The hero is the 
esteemed prince-bishop,

464
00:21:58,566 --> 00:22:01,466
honored by a host of Greek 
gods affirming his rule.

465
00:22:02,733 --> 00:22:05,700
Ringing the room are allegories 
of the four continents,

466
00:22:05,700 --> 00:22:07,633
each with a woman on an animal

467
00:22:07,633 --> 00:22:09,400
and celebrating Wurzburg

468
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:12,666
as the center of 
the civilized world.

469
00:22:12,666 --> 00:22:15,133
America, desperately 
uncivilized,

470
00:22:15,133 --> 00:22:18,166
sits naked with feathers 
in her hair on an alligator

471
00:22:18,166 --> 00:22:20,933
among severed heads and 
a cannibal barbecue.

472
00:22:20,933 --> 00:22:24,000
(sophisticated classical music)

473
00:22:24,000 --> 00:22:25,733
Africa lounges on a camel

474
00:22:25,733 --> 00:22:28,433
in a land of trade 
and fantasy animals.

475
00:22:29,866 --> 00:22:32,566
Asia rides her elephant in the 
birthplace of Christianity,

476
00:22:32,566 --> 00:22:33,966
marked by crosses.

477
00:22:34,966 --> 00:22:37,366
Europe is the center 
of high culture,

478
00:22:37,366 --> 00:22:40,900
and Lady Culture herself 
points her brush not at Rome,

479
00:22:40,900 --> 00:22:42,300
but at Wurzburg.

480
00:22:43,966 --> 00:22:47,966
The adjacent Imperial Hall 
is a fine example of Baroque,

481
00:22:47,966 --> 00:22:51,300
harmony, symmetry, 
light, and mirrors.

482
00:22:51,300 --> 00:22:53,766
Its ceiling is also by Tiepolo.

483
00:22:53,766 --> 00:22:55,433
Typical of the Baroque movement,

484
00:22:55,433 --> 00:22:58,533
he was a master of 
three-dimensional illusion,

485
00:22:58,533 --> 00:23:01,400
and he'd heighten the 
illusion with some fun tricks.

486
00:23:01,400 --> 00:23:03,866
Notice how 3D legs 
and other objects

487
00:23:03,866 --> 00:23:05,666
dangle out of the 2D frame.

488
00:23:07,066 --> 00:23:10,033
The art, like nearly all art 
of that day, was propaganda,

489
00:23:10,033 --> 00:23:13,733
paid for and serving either 
the State or the Church.

490
00:23:13,733 --> 00:23:15,866
In this case, it's both.

491
00:23:15,866 --> 00:23:17,266
Here, the Holy Roman Emperor

492
00:23:17,266 --> 00:23:19,600
bestows upon the 
bishop of Franconia

493
00:23:19,600 --> 00:23:21,966
the secular title of prince.

494
00:23:21,966 --> 00:23:24,233
The bishop, now 
the prince-bishop,

495
00:23:24,233 --> 00:23:25,800
touches the emperor's scepter,

496
00:23:25,800 --> 00:23:27,833
performing an oath of loyalty.

497
00:23:27,833 --> 00:23:29,600
From this point onward,

498
00:23:29,600 --> 00:23:33,233
the prince-bishop wears 
two very powerful hats

499
00:23:33,233 --> 00:23:34,466
at the same time.

500
00:23:35,800 --> 00:23:38,833
A string of splendid rooms 
evolve from fancy Baroque

501
00:23:38,833 --> 00:23:40,966
to fancier Rococo.

502
00:23:40,966 --> 00:23:44,633
It all leads to the 
18th-century Mirror Cabinet.

503
00:23:44,633 --> 00:23:46,233
This was where the prince-bishop

504
00:23:46,233 --> 00:23:48,833
showed off his amazing wealth.

505
00:23:48,833 --> 00:23:51,633
It features kilos of gold leaf,

506
00:23:51,633 --> 00:23:54,400
lots of exotic Asian influence,

507
00:23:54,400 --> 00:23:57,333
and eye-popping extravagance.

508
00:23:57,333 --> 00:23:58,900
As for the commoners,

509
00:23:58,900 --> 00:24:02,000
we were finally allowed 
inside this glorious palace

510
00:24:02,000 --> 00:24:04,200
about two centuries later.

511
00:24:04,200 --> 00:24:08,266
(sophisticated classical music)

512
00:24:09,833 --> 00:24:12,366
I hope you've enjoyed our 
visit to dynamic Hamburg,

513
00:24:12,366 --> 00:24:14,166
the fascinating Luther cities,

514
00:24:14,166 --> 00:24:16,800
and Wurzburg, with 
its Baroque charm.

515
00:24:16,800 --> 00:24:17,900
I'm Rick Steves.

516
00:24:17,900 --> 00:24:20,400
Until next time, 
keep on travelin'.

517
00:24:20,400 --> 00:24:21,300
Auf Wiedersehen.

518
00:24:24,233 --> 00:24:27,433
As public media embraces the 
convenience of streaming,

519
00:24:27,433 --> 00:24:29,533
we're still public media,

520
00:24:29,533 --> 00:24:33,200
and that means your support 
is as critical as ever.

521
00:24:33,200 --> 00:24:35,833
Please, take a moment 
to support this station.

522
00:24:35,833 --> 00:24:38,566
It's quick, it's easy, 
and when you get on board,

523
00:24:38,566 --> 00:24:40,900
you'll help make quality 
programming strong

524
00:24:40,900 --> 00:24:42,466
for your entire family.

525
00:24:42,466 --> 00:24:44,166
And along with these gifts,

526
00:24:44,166 --> 00:24:47,733
you'll enjoy a world of 
great programs with Passport.

527
00:24:47,733 --> 00:24:49,133
Thanks a lot.

528
00:24:49,133 --> 00:24:50,433
(gentle bright music)

529
00:24:50,433 --> 00:24:52,400
- [Announcer] Invest in 
your local PBS station

530
00:24:52,400 --> 00:24:54,866
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531
00:24:54,866 --> 00:24:58,133
or make a $96 annual 
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532
00:24:58,133 --> 00:25:01,366
and we'll say thanks with a 
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533
00:25:01,366 --> 00:25:04,300
You'll receive Rick Steves' 
book "For the Love of Europe,"

534
00:25:04,300 --> 00:25:06,066
which shares his 
favorite memories

535
00:25:06,066 --> 00:25:09,066
from decades of 
travel in 100 essays.

536
00:25:09,066 --> 00:25:13,000
It's 400 pages of fun and 
inspirational travel stories.

537
00:25:13,000 --> 00:25:14,400
On top of that,

538
00:25:14,400 --> 00:25:16,733
you'll receive a copy of 
"Europe Through the Back Door."

539
00:25:16,733 --> 00:25:19,300
This book is packed 
with practical tips,

540
00:25:19,300 --> 00:25:20,933
from chapters on packing light

541
00:25:20,933 --> 00:25:22,900
and planning a smart itinerary,

542
00:25:22,900 --> 00:25:26,266
to eating your way through 
Europe and finding great hotels.

543
00:25:26,266 --> 00:25:28,366
We'll also send you 
this map of Europe,

544
00:25:28,366 --> 00:25:30,233
which is perfect for 
pre-trip planning

545
00:25:30,233 --> 00:25:33,166
and using while you're on 
the vacation of your dreams.

546
00:25:33,166 --> 00:25:35,533
Plus, you'll receive 
Rick Steves' newsletter,

547
00:25:35,533 --> 00:25:37,233
which is packed 
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548
00:25:37,233 --> 00:25:39,300
about European destinations.

549
00:25:39,300 --> 00:25:42,133
And don't forget, with your 
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550
00:25:42,133 --> 00:25:45,133
you'll be able to enjoy a 
terrific member benefit,

551
00:25:45,133 --> 00:25:48,600
PBS Passport, which lets you 
watch every one of Rick's shows

552
00:25:48,600 --> 00:25:50,733
that's available on the PBS app.

553
00:25:50,733 --> 00:25:53,633
With PBS Passport, you'll 
also be able to stream

554
00:25:53,633 --> 00:25:55,900
a treasure trove of 
your favorite dramas,

555
00:25:55,900 --> 00:25:58,433
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556
00:25:58,433 --> 00:25:59,633
So don't wait.

557
00:25:59,633 --> 00:26:03,800
Go to pbs.org/rick to give now.

558
00:26:03,800 --> 00:26:04,966
Thank you.

559
00:26:04,966 --> 00:26:08,933
(gentle bright music)

560
00:26:08,933 --> 00:26:11,933
- That what had become a 
derelict industrial wasteland

561
00:26:11,933 --> 00:26:13,933
was actually prime real estate.

562
00:26:15,000 --> 00:26:16,933
(Rick laughing)

563
00:26:16,933 --> 00:26:18,266
The prince-bishop's Residence

564
00:26:18,266 --> 00:26:21,666
is the main attraction 
in Hamburg. (laughs)

565
00:26:21,666 --> 00:26:23,400
Ahman's a Debbie Downer

566
00:26:23,400 --> 00:26:26,100
when it comes to 
16th century history.

567
00:26:26,100 --> 00:26:28,866
If there's anybody that can 
cheer for the Reformation.

568
00:26:30,200 --> 00:26:33,033
Kicked off more than a 
conversation. (clicks tongue)

569
00:26:33,033 --> 00:26:35,233
They kicked off the 
Protestant Reformation.

570
00:26:35,233 --> 00:26:38,400
(gentle thrilling music)

571
00:26:38,400 --> 00:26:40,500
(gentle thrilling music ends)

572
00:26:40,500 --> 00:26:43,166
(gentle music)

573
00:26:44,666 --> 00:26:47,300
(gentle music)