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Hi. I'm Rick Steves on the wild 
and western fringe of Europe.

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It's Iceland--the land 
of thunderous waterfalls,

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fiery volcanoes, 
and the midnight sun.

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With a resilient culture 
and epic natural thrills,

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we'll see why 
this little island

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is so dang popular.

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Thanks for joining us!

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♪

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To fully experience Iceland, 
we start in the capital city,

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Reykjavík, then we day-trip 
deep into the blustery interior

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to sample the power of nature 
on the famed Golden Circle,

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and then we do 
the epic road trip:

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Iceland's 800-mile Ring Road

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circling this 
unforgettable island.

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Rick, voice-over: 
Reykjavík, with its

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landmark church, 
ruddy urban charm,

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and determined cultural life 
is our springboard.

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After soaking with the locals 
in a thermal pool

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and enjoying an Icelandic feast,

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we do the famous Golden Circle 
day trip.

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We'll see the gorge where 
Europe meets America,

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thrill under 
the original "geyser,"

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and feel the spray of 
a thundering waterfall.

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Then we hit the road-- 
the Ring Road--

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and circle the entire island.

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With help from Cameron Hewitt, 
my friend and fellow

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guidebook author, 
we'll do it all:

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exploring waterfalls,

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hiking through steaming 
geothermal fields,

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cruising lagoons bobbing 
with icebergs,

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fording glacial rivers,

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gathering eggs local style...

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and wandering evocative 
black-sand beaches.

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We'll chase rainbows, 
elusive whales,

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roaming horses, 
and the cutest puffins.

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Iceland, about the size 
of Virginia with just

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400,000 people, sits between 
Greenland and Norway.

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From Reykjavík, after 
the Golden Circle day trip,

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we hit the Ring Road.

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We explore the South Coast,

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side-tripping up 
Thorsmork valley

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and sailing 
to the Westman Islands.

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After Vík, we see 
glacial lagoons,

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the rugged Eastfjords,

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geothermal hot zones 
around Lake Myvatn,

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the fishing village of 
Húsavík in the far north,

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and Snaefellsnes Peninsula 
before finishing

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back where we started.

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♪

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Reykjavík, by far the biggest 
city in the country,

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is still small--it's about 
the size of Berkeley, or Fargo.

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With a hard-scrabble heritage 
and a vibrant culture,

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today it offers a tourist- 
friendly mix of old and new.

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Rick, voice-over: While 
short on world-class sights,

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Reykjavík certainly has 
an urban vitality,

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with plenty of restaurants 
and shopping

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to keep visitors entertained.

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It's unexpectedly cosmopolitan,

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with an artistic, 
bohemian flair.

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And it's blustery.

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Iceland can be cold 
even in summer.

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This is a typical day 
in July...and so is this.

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If you don't like the weather, 
just wait a few minutes.

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♪

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Reykjavík's neighborhoods 
are enlivened by street art.

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A blank wall will just get 
tagged with graffiti anyway,

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so, instead, homeowners hire 
talented street artists

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to create colorful murals.

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♪

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It seems every street 
leads to Hallgríms Church,

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crowning a hill 
in the town center.

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♪

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Designed by Iceland's state 
architect in the 1930s,

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the church represents 
the national style.

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Stark and utilitarian, 
yet beautiful,

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it evokes the island's 
volcanic landscape.

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Stairstepped gables echo 
Iceland's basalt cliffs.

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♪

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The interior is Lutheran-- 
serene and austere.

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The glass is clear, 
not stained...

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and the altar 
is a simple table.

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♪

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An elevator whisks visitors 
to the top of the tower

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for panoramic views 
over all of Reykjavík.

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♪

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Two out of every 3 Icelanders

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lives within sight 
of this steeple.

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♪

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In front of the church stands 
a statue of Leif Erikson.

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Born here in Iceland, 
this Viking explorer

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is believed to be the first 
European to set foot

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in the Americas-- 
about 5 centuries

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before Christopher Columbus.

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♪

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The modern sculpture called 
"The Sea Voyager"

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is an homage to those 
Scandinavian adventurers

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who, beginning in 
the ninth century,

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loaded up their ships, set sail 
into an uncharted ocean,

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and brought civilization 
to this uninhabited island.

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♪

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Iceland, so harsh and desolate,

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steaming with volcanoes, 
was settled

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over 1,000 years ago 
by early Norse farmers.

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♪

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Imagine the original 
Icelanders--

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hardy folk eking out a living 
on remote farms,

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living in isolation.

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They chronicled their lives 
in "the Sagas"--

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a blending of 
historical records,

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tall tales, and legends.

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♪

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From the age of the Vikings, 
the country grew slowly.

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By the mid-1700s, 
all of Iceland still only had

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about 50,000 people, and 
Reykjavík was just a big farm.

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As trade, 
mostly fishing, increased,

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and towns began to form,

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Reykjavík emerged 
as the capital city.

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Rick, voice-over: The National 
Museum collects artifacts

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from these early days 
of Iceland.

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A society made of wood 
doesn't leave much behind.

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♪

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But a few exquisite items, 
like these ornamental horns,

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and these whalebone 
carvings, survive.

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♪

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Pagan Iceland 
converted to Christianity

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in about the year 1000.

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Until relatively modern times,

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Icelandic settlers 
lived in rustic cottages.

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Existence may have been bleak, 
but families were tight-knit.

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Many Icelanders lived 
simple lives, much like this,

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until the early 20th century.

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♪

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Life was tied to the sea.

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Icelanders sailed in 
open boats, fished for cod,

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and hunted shark for 
their valuable liver oil.

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♪

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More and more, symbols like 
an official national costume

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and its own flag 
demonstrated a growing sense

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of national identity.

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Iceland remained part of Denmark 
through the 1800s.

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Iceland-born politician 
Jón Sigurdsson

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lobbied in Copenhagen 
for independence,

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which Denmark finally granted 
in 1918.

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♪

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Iceland's parliament, called 
the Althing, may seem humble.

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But it represents a thousand- 
year journey in this society

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from rustic farmsteads 
to today's

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modern, democratic nation.

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♪

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Rick, voice-over: For locals, 
Parliament Square

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remains a place to 
make your voice heard...

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or to just hang out.

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♪

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Reykjavík still has 
a hardworking harbor,

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busy with both industrial 
vessels and sightseeing boats.

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And, in just 
the last generation,

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boldly modern condos and office 
towers show how today's Iceland

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is charging into the future.

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♪

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And a fine example of that is 
the super-modern concert hall,

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called Harpa.

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♪

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In the lobby, the sky reflects 
like you're inside

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a giant honeycombed prism.

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♪

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This extravagant use 
of space and glass

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put Iceland on the world's 
architectural map

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when it opened in 2011.

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Welcoming the public, a hit 
with locals and tourists,

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and busy with 
conferences and concerts,

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Harpa is the hub 
of the country's

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cultural and community activity.

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♪

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This island is proud of 
its homegrown artists,

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especially the sculptor 
Einar Jónsson,

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who in the early 1900s 
was inspired by Rodin.

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♪

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A welcoming sculpture garden

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is filled with his bronze works.

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Inside the Einar Jónsson museum

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are the plaster originals.

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Jónsson's works 
are intense and emotive.

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You'll see Viking warriors...

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bold explorers...

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protective women...

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and lots of drama.

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He blended 
elements of Christianity,

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Old Norse legend, 
Greek mythology,

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and his own belief 
that every person

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contains at least 
a kernel of goodness.

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A visit here reminds us that 
even small countries

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produce talented artists, 
like Jonsson,

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worth getting to know.

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For a peek at the city's 
everyday charms

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and more insight 
into the culture,

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I'm joined by local tour guide 
Saga Fridriksdottir,

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a Reykjavík native who loves 
showing off her hometown.

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Saga, I love Iceland, but this 
language is impossible for me.

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I mean, how can 
any tourist remember that?

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Saga: Oh. Well, I mean 
Skolavordustigur.

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Rick: Skolavordustigur.

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Saga: Yeah, it's pretty hard, 
but you know,

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we all speak English as well.

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Rick: Thank goodness.

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This street makes me happy.

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Saga: Very happy. 
Very colorful.

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Dedicated to gay pride.

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But also a reminder 
that Iceland is much for,

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just equality and human rights.

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And this is always 
Rainbow Street.

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Rick: Nice. 
Saga: Yes.

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Rick: So, in the summer, 
days are very long,

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but in the winter...what is 
it like in the winter?

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Saga: Well, cold 
and very, very dark.

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But we have these beautiful, 
colorful houses

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that really characterizes 
Reykjavík.

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They brighten up 
our days in winter.

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And also, you notice we have 
a lot of corrugated iron

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that clothe these wooden houses, 
which was a revolutionary

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material because 
it protected the houses

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from this crazy 
Icelandic weather.

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Rick: I'm sure historically, 
this is a society

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that has dealt with hardships.

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Saga: Oh, yeah, for sure. 
Definitely.

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But we have a strong mentality 
and there's actually

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a saying in Iceland: 
Thetta reddast.

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Rick:  Thetta reddast. 
Saga:  Thetta reddast.

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And it basically just means, 
"It's going to be fine.

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Don't worry about it. 
It's gonna work out."

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Rick, voice-over: On weekends, 
the downtown flea market

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is a characteristic 
and mostly local shopping scene.

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This is really a fun place.

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Rick, voice-over: And don't miss 
those famous Icelandic sweaters.

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Rick: 
I don't do a lot of shopping,

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but when it comes to the Nordic 
countries, I like a sweater.

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Oh, that's beautiful. 
So, Saga,

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this really 
feels like good wool.

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Saga: I mean, 
we consider it to be

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the best wool in the world.

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Rick: This is like 
Icelandic sheep.

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Saga: Proper Icelandic 
sheep wool, yes.

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Rick: And what--is it special?

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Because it feels 
a little special.

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Saga: Well, I guess because 
they've been roaming freely

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in Iceland since 874.

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They know how to deal with 
rough Icelandic weather,

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and they give us 
the perfect clothing for that.

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Rick: Oh, yeah. 
Do you think it's good?

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Woman: Yes. 
Saga: It's very good.

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Rick: I like it because 
it feels it has history.

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00:12:41,133 --> 00:12:43,600
Woman: It's warm and good. 
You see you.

252
00:12:43,666 --> 00:12:46,166
Saga: Wow. 
Rick: Oh, look at that. Yeah.

253
00:12:47,133 --> 00:12:48,500
Saga: You look like a local.

254
00:12:48,566 --> 00:12:51,133
Rick: I feel like a local. 
I can speak Icelandic.

255
00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:53,000
Saga: Yes. 
[Rick laughs]

256
00:12:53,066 --> 00:12:54,966
Rick, voice-over: The flea 
market is also a place

257
00:12:55,033 --> 00:12:58,233
you can sample 
some unique tastes.

258
00:12:58,300 --> 00:13:01,500
As the early Icelanders 
settled this untamed island,

259
00:13:01,566 --> 00:13:04,666
they resorted to many 
"hardship foods."

260
00:13:04,733 --> 00:13:05,966
Rick: So, 
when we come to Iceland,

261
00:13:06,033 --> 00:13:07,766
everybody has to try the shark.

262
00:13:07,833 --> 00:13:09,700
Saga: They have to 
try the shark. Definitely.

263
00:13:09,766 --> 00:13:13,233
I mean, this is the famous 
Greenland shark.

264
00:13:13,300 --> 00:13:14,833
Rick: This is shark. 
Fermented shark.

265
00:13:14,900 --> 00:13:18,033
Saga: Fermented shark. Yeah. 
Because if you would

266
00:13:18,100 --> 00:13:20,200
eat the shark straight away, 
you know, when it's fresh,

267
00:13:20,266 --> 00:13:21,566
you would die, unfortunately.

268
00:13:21,633 --> 00:13:23,800
Rick: You would die? 
Saga: Yes, it is toxic.

269
00:13:23,866 --> 00:13:25,433
Rick: So, how did 
you ferment this?

270
00:13:25,500 --> 00:13:26,900
Saga: So, you chop it in pieces,

271
00:13:26,966 --> 00:13:28,266
you bury it in the ground 
for some time,

272
00:13:28,333 --> 00:13:29,966
and then hang it up, 
and you get rid of

273
00:13:30,033 --> 00:13:31,700
the, the ammonia, or, like,

274
00:13:31,766 --> 00:13:34,166
the urine, basically, 
which is the toxins.

275
00:13:34,233 --> 00:13:36,766
And I always think, like, 
how many tries did it take

276
00:13:36,833 --> 00:13:39,966
to figure out 
this method of, like,

277
00:13:40,033 --> 00:13:42,300
not getting killed 
by eating the shark?

278
00:13:42,366 --> 00:13:43,700
Rick: That just 
stokes my appetite.

279
00:13:43,766 --> 00:13:45,033
Is it possible to try some?

280
00:13:45,100 --> 00:13:47,466
Saga: You have to try it. 
There's some pieces here.

281
00:13:47,533 --> 00:13:50,733
Rick: Good. I'm gonna put 
this piece of shark down.

282
00:13:50,800 --> 00:13:54,300
Saga: And this is usually how 
it comes, like in small pieces.

283
00:13:54,366 --> 00:13:55,966
So, you're more than welcome 
to have a piece

284
00:13:56,033 --> 00:13:57,933
or two if you fancy it.

285
00:13:59,966 --> 00:14:01,400
[Rick laughs]

286
00:14:01,466 --> 00:14:02,500
Saga: Give it a good chew.

287
00:14:04,066 --> 00:14:05,200
Rick: Wow.

288
00:14:05,266 --> 00:14:07,566
Now, that is very 
fishy right now.

289
00:14:07,633 --> 00:14:10,000
Saga: Yes. 
Wait for the aftertaste.

290
00:14:10,066 --> 00:14:11,333
Rick: Yeah. My goodness.

291
00:14:11,400 --> 00:14:12,666
Now it's like it just got

292
00:14:12,733 --> 00:14:15,433
swept over with--with ammonia.

293
00:14:15,500 --> 00:14:16,666
Saga: Right.

294
00:14:16,733 --> 00:14:18,266
And usually you're 
supposed to drink it

295
00:14:18,333 --> 00:14:21,633
with the Black Death schnapps. 
Brandy wine.

296
00:14:21,700 --> 00:14:23,566
Rick: Some fire water. 
Saga: Yes, please have some.

297
00:14:23,633 --> 00:14:26,066
Rick: Oh, baby, 
that is...unforgettable.

298
00:14:26,133 --> 00:14:27,366
Saga: Yeah.

299
00:14:27,433 --> 00:14:29,766
But now you tried 
the famous Icelandic shark.

300
00:14:29,833 --> 00:14:32,266
Rick: The aftertaste... 
I just feel like I've

301
00:14:32,333 --> 00:14:34,300
been in a gas station 
or something.

302
00:14:34,366 --> 00:14:37,200
All: 1, 2, 3, go!

303
00:14:44,233 --> 00:14:47,466
Iceland is a volcanic island. 
it's formed at the rift

304
00:14:47,533 --> 00:14:49,000
where the European 
and North American

305
00:14:49,066 --> 00:14:51,100
tectonic plates 
are pulling apart.

306
00:14:51,166 --> 00:14:54,233
That's why there's a chain of 
active volcanoes, hot springs,

307
00:14:54,300 --> 00:14:55,900
and steam vents like this

308
00:14:55,966 --> 00:14:58,533
cutting right through 
the center of the country.

309
00:14:58,600 --> 00:14:59,933
Rick, voice-over: 
Visitors come to Iceland

310
00:15:00,000 --> 00:15:02,333
hoping to see 
a volcanic eruption.

311
00:15:02,400 --> 00:15:04,433
But big, dramatic eruptions,

312
00:15:04,500 --> 00:15:06,033
that casual visitors 
can actually

313
00:15:06,100 --> 00:15:08,933
get up close to and see, 
are very rare.

314
00:15:09,000 --> 00:15:13,800
♪

315
00:15:13,866 --> 00:15:16,033
But exploring this island 
does come with

316
00:15:16,100 --> 00:15:18,700
plenty of steamy serendipity.

317
00:15:18,766 --> 00:15:21,600
Like roadside attractions, 
bubbling mud holes

318
00:15:21,666 --> 00:15:23,533
gurgle with molten muck.

319
00:15:25,566 --> 00:15:31,300
Vents spew steam, and as the 
fog clears from your glasses,

320
00:15:31,366 --> 00:15:34,066
suddenly you're 
interested in geology!

321
00:15:35,566 --> 00:15:39,433
The entire island is shaped 
by lava from past eruptions.

322
00:15:39,500 --> 00:15:42,933
Dark, chunky lava rock 
blanketed by cushy moss

323
00:15:43,000 --> 00:15:46,266
covers much of Iceland's 
surface, giving the countryside

324
00:15:46,333 --> 00:15:48,800
a desolate, almost lunar feel.

325
00:15:48,866 --> 00:15:52,333
♪

326
00:15:52,400 --> 00:15:54,800
And the Icelanders have 
ingeniously harnessed

327
00:15:54,866 --> 00:15:57,133
their endless supply 
of green energy.

328
00:15:58,700 --> 00:16:00,766
Geothermal plants, 
in the middle of nowhere,

329
00:16:00,833 --> 00:16:03,933
are hard at work, boring 
deep into the earth's crust

330
00:16:04,000 --> 00:16:06,200
to tap into hot water.

331
00:16:06,266 --> 00:16:09,233
And pipelines carry that 
super-heated water

332
00:16:09,300 --> 00:16:12,100
through miles of countryside 
to heat and power

333
00:16:12,166 --> 00:16:14,666
Reykjavík and other communities.

334
00:16:14,733 --> 00:16:17,166
♪

335
00:16:18,500 --> 00:16:21,300
Despite the chill, 
houses are toasty.

336
00:16:21,366 --> 00:16:25,133
In fact, you'll notice many 
small windows propped open.

337
00:16:25,200 --> 00:16:27,733
Because that geothermal heat 
is so cheap,

338
00:16:27,800 --> 00:16:30,666
people don't even bother 
turning down the radiator.

339
00:16:30,733 --> 00:16:32,400
They just crack the window.

340
00:16:32,466 --> 00:16:34,366
♪

341
00:16:34,433 --> 00:16:37,066
The most enjoyable use 
for Iceland's hot water

342
00:16:37,133 --> 00:16:39,900
is its thermal pools.

343
00:16:39,966 --> 00:16:44,366
And the most famous spa is 
45 minutes outside Reykjavík:

344
00:16:44,433 --> 00:16:46,566
The Blue Lagoon.

345
00:16:46,633 --> 00:16:49,733
Years ago, a geothermal 
plant began dumping its

346
00:16:49,800 --> 00:16:53,800
hot, mineral-rich waste water 
into this lava landscape.

347
00:16:53,866 --> 00:16:56,833
Locals discovered it was 
a great place to take a dip.

348
00:16:56,900 --> 00:17:00,866
Developers then transformed it 
into a high-end spa.

349
00:17:00,933 --> 00:17:03,433
Today, Iceland's 
top tourist attraction

350
00:17:03,500 --> 00:17:04,933
is close to the airport

351
00:17:05,000 --> 00:17:08,633
and a popular first or last 
stop for visitors.

352
00:17:09,700 --> 00:17:12,133
The Blue Lagoon is a lavish spa,

353
00:17:12,200 --> 00:17:14,033
but it's extremely touristy

354
00:17:14,100 --> 00:17:17,266
and you sure won't meet 
many Icelanders here.

355
00:17:17,333 --> 00:17:20,366
But the good news: you have 
plenty of alternatives

356
00:17:20,433 --> 00:17:24,100
that are just as relaxing-- 
the community thermal pools.

357
00:17:24,166 --> 00:17:29,333
♪

358
00:17:30,800 --> 00:17:32,733
The Blue Lagoon is popular.

359
00:17:32,800 --> 00:17:35,600
But it's expensive--- 
about 10 times the cost

360
00:17:35,666 --> 00:17:37,000
of a pool like this.

361
00:17:37,066 --> 00:17:39,333
You can luxuriate 
in the Blue Lagoon

362
00:17:39,400 --> 00:17:44,466
or you can soak with the locals 
in a neighborhood pool.

363
00:17:44,533 --> 00:17:48,366
The choice is yours. 
Today, I'm soakin' local.

364
00:17:49,700 --> 00:17:51,733
Rick, voice-over: 
Fed by natural thermal springs,

365
00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:54,600
the main pool is bathwater-warm.

366
00:17:54,666 --> 00:17:57,433
Waterslides, cascades, 
and kids' zones

367
00:17:57,500 --> 00:18:00,066
keep locals entertained.

368
00:18:00,133 --> 00:18:03,100
This is where Icelanders 
meet up after work

369
00:18:03,166 --> 00:18:05,233
to connect with 
friends and family.

370
00:18:05,300 --> 00:18:09,600
I can't think of a better way 
to meet the locals.

371
00:18:09,666 --> 00:18:12,100
And for the ultimate 
in relaxation,

372
00:18:12,166 --> 00:18:15,333
hundred-degree hot pots 
simmer nearby.

373
00:18:15,400 --> 00:18:18,233
Soaking together is 
a great equalizer.

374
00:18:18,300 --> 00:18:21,133
Student, truck driver, 
doctor, and tourist--

375
00:18:21,200 --> 00:18:23,566
everybody's equal in the pool.

376
00:18:23,633 --> 00:18:30,833
♪

377
00:18:33,300 --> 00:18:35,700
Iceland is all about 
the great outdoors.

378
00:18:35,766 --> 00:18:38,100
But if the weather's bad, 
as it often is,

379
00:18:38,166 --> 00:18:40,033
several indoor sights 
here in Reykjavík

380
00:18:40,100 --> 00:18:42,300
offer a taste of 
the majesty of Iceland

381
00:18:42,366 --> 00:18:44,666
without leaving 
the capital city.

382
00:18:44,733 --> 00:18:47,066
Rick, voice-over: At the edge 
of town is a one-stop way

383
00:18:47,133 --> 00:18:49,933
to experience this country's 
top natural wonders,

384
00:18:50,000 --> 00:18:54,200
at least virtually, 
under one roof--The Pearl.

385
00:18:54,266 --> 00:18:57,133
Exhibits feature 
fiery volcanoes,

386
00:18:57,200 --> 00:19:01,300
with majestic footage 
that gives a sense of awe,

387
00:19:01,366 --> 00:19:05,233
birds perched precariously 
on towering cliffs,

388
00:19:05,300 --> 00:19:08,566
and a 300-foot-long ice cave.

389
00:19:09,900 --> 00:19:12,533
It's a primer 
on Icelandic nature,

390
00:19:12,600 --> 00:19:15,933
especially worthwhile for those 
without the time or money

391
00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:17,366
to see the real thing.

392
00:19:18,733 --> 00:19:23,333
The most elusive natural 
thrill is the Aurora Borealis.

393
00:19:23,400 --> 00:19:26,700
In summer, when it's too light 
to see these Northern Lights,

394
00:19:26,766 --> 00:19:28,566
you can step into 
the planetarium

395
00:19:28,633 --> 00:19:31,700
to get a sense of this 
fabled phenomenon.

396
00:19:31,766 --> 00:19:33,266
But of course, 
there's nothing like

397
00:19:33,333 --> 00:19:35,766
experiencing the real thing.

398
00:19:35,833 --> 00:19:37,766
Remember, even if 
you come in the winter

399
00:19:37,833 --> 00:19:39,333
solely for the Northern Lights,

400
00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:41,833
there's no guarantees 
of seeing them.

401
00:19:41,900 --> 00:19:44,533
But if you do see 
those ethereal lights

402
00:19:44,600 --> 00:19:47,166
dancing in the sky, 
the experience

403
00:19:47,233 --> 00:19:50,333
will stay with you 
for the rest of your days.

404
00:19:50,400 --> 00:19:52,800
♪

405
00:19:54,933 --> 00:19:57,233
The weather's great, 
and from Reykjavík,

406
00:19:57,300 --> 00:20:01,100
we're making the classic 
150-mile day-trip loop:

407
00:20:01,166 --> 00:20:03,333
the Golden Circle.

408
00:20:03,400 --> 00:20:05,633
Within minutes, we're immersed 
in Iceland's iconic

409
00:20:05,700 --> 00:20:08,533
wide-open spaces and enjoying 
the dramatic scenery

410
00:20:08,600 --> 00:20:10,500
of this island's 
natural wonders.

411
00:20:12,366 --> 00:20:15,333
Today, we'll see gorges, 
waterfalls, geysers,

412
00:20:15,400 --> 00:20:19,033
and more, with epic views 
all along the way.

413
00:20:19,100 --> 00:20:20,766
By the way, most people do this

414
00:20:20,833 --> 00:20:23,133
as a day-trip on a tour bus.

415
00:20:23,200 --> 00:20:24,233
But we're driving.

416
00:20:25,266 --> 00:20:27,700
Rick, voice-over: 
Our first stop is Thingvellir.

417
00:20:29,033 --> 00:20:31,533
This national park is 
important to Icelanders

418
00:20:31,600 --> 00:20:33,566
for two reasons.

419
00:20:33,633 --> 00:20:36,800
First, at this gorge, 
you can see the rift

420
00:20:36,866 --> 00:20:40,500
that marks that slow 
separation of tectonic plates.

421
00:20:40,566 --> 00:20:43,166
Walking along this fissure 
in the earth's crust,

422
00:20:43,233 --> 00:20:46,500
travelers sense this meeting 
of two continents:

423
00:20:46,566 --> 00:20:50,233
America on the left, 
Europe on the right.

424
00:20:50,300 --> 00:20:54,566
And second, Thingvellir, 
which means "Assembly Plains,"

425
00:20:54,633 --> 00:20:57,333
was the site of 
the original Althing,

426
00:20:57,400 --> 00:21:00,200
an annual gathering 
of early settlers.

427
00:21:03,266 --> 00:21:05,966
This is where the nation 
of Iceland was born.

428
00:21:06,033 --> 00:21:09,266
1,000 years ago, 
chieftains from isolated farms

429
00:21:09,333 --> 00:21:11,966
all over the island 
traveled great distances

430
00:21:12,033 --> 00:21:16,133
to meet right here every summer 
and make important decisions.

431
00:21:16,200 --> 00:21:18,533
In an age when almost 
no one could read or write,

432
00:21:18,600 --> 00:21:21,466
each meeting began by reciting 
the memorized highlights

433
00:21:21,533 --> 00:21:24,033
from last year's gathering.

434
00:21:24,100 --> 00:21:25,800
Rick, voice-over: 
History aside, Thingvellir

435
00:21:25,866 --> 00:21:28,066
is inviting for a nature walk.

436
00:21:28,133 --> 00:21:31,366
In this evocative spot, 
waterfalls tumble

437
00:21:31,433 --> 00:21:35,633
and the river flows as geology 
does its slow-motion dance.

438
00:21:35,700 --> 00:21:39,100
♪

439
00:21:39,166 --> 00:21:41,666
Just up the road 
is a geological site

440
00:21:41,733 --> 00:21:43,766
actually called Geysir.

441
00:21:44,833 --> 00:21:48,100
This geothermal field-- 
colorful and steamy

442
00:21:48,166 --> 00:21:52,166
with scalding water--is home 
to the original geyser,

443
00:21:52,233 --> 00:21:54,500
which means "gusher" 
in Icelandic.

444
00:21:55,833 --> 00:21:59,633
The site is otherworldly 
as pools bubble

445
00:21:59,700 --> 00:22:01,466
and steam fills the air,

446
00:22:01,533 --> 00:22:03,966
all with a whiff of sulfur.

447
00:22:04,033 --> 00:22:06,833
But the big show is 
the central geyser.

448
00:22:06,900 --> 00:22:09,333
♪

449
00:22:09,400 --> 00:22:15,366
Tourists line up, cameras 
poised with anticip--ation...

450
00:22:15,433 --> 00:22:17,333
ready to capture the moment.

451
00:22:17,400 --> 00:22:21,233
They wait... 
and wait...and wait.

452
00:22:21,300 --> 00:22:25,833
Sometimes they wait so long, 
the weather actually improves.

453
00:22:25,900 --> 00:22:28,800
And then, suddenly, 
with a gurgling belch

454
00:22:28,866 --> 00:22:34,200
the geyser explodes...rocketing 
skyward and thrilling the crowd.

455
00:22:34,266 --> 00:22:36,166
[Indistinct chatter]

456
00:22:36,233 --> 00:22:40,733
♪

457
00:22:40,800 --> 00:22:42,733
As you drive the Golden Circle,

458
00:22:42,800 --> 00:22:45,566
remember to slow down 
and enjoy the scenery.

459
00:22:46,933 --> 00:22:50,566
And it's not just about 
the famous natural sights.

460
00:22:50,633 --> 00:22:52,833
Along the way, 
you'll see slices of

461
00:22:52,900 --> 00:22:55,133
Iceland's unique agriculture.

462
00:22:55,200 --> 00:22:57,200
♪

463
00:22:57,266 --> 00:22:59,066
With its efficient greenhouses,

464
00:22:59,133 --> 00:23:01,133
even with the lack 
of good topsoil

465
00:23:01,200 --> 00:23:02,666
and its difficult weather,

466
00:23:02,733 --> 00:23:05,500
Iceland grows plenty of 
tasty vegetables.

467
00:23:07,066 --> 00:23:09,533
The climate is harsh 
for conventional farming.

468
00:23:09,600 --> 00:23:12,433
But its expertise in 
greenhouse technology

469
00:23:12,500 --> 00:23:15,566
and in putting geothermal 
energy to good use

470
00:23:15,633 --> 00:23:17,666
yields an abundant harvest.

471
00:23:17,733 --> 00:23:23,200
♪

472
00:23:23,266 --> 00:23:26,433
For lunch, we're stopping 
at a working farm.

473
00:23:26,500 --> 00:23:28,600
It's clear that 
frugal farmers here

474
00:23:28,666 --> 00:23:31,266
are tapping into 
the tourist boom.

475
00:23:31,333 --> 00:23:34,766
This family now serves 
hungry sightseers.

476
00:23:34,833 --> 00:23:38,466
The soup bar is 
a budget standby:

477
00:23:38,533 --> 00:23:41,866
it's all you can slurp, 
with fresh-baked bread

478
00:23:41,933 --> 00:23:44,666
and a glass of water 
and a cup of coffee.

479
00:23:45,800 --> 00:23:48,200
You can finish with 
a farm-fresh dessert

480
00:23:48,266 --> 00:23:53,066
with a special twist: the cows 
actually watch the diners

481
00:23:53,133 --> 00:23:56,800
enjoying ice cream made 
from their very own milk.

482
00:23:56,866 --> 00:23:59,000
♪

483
00:23:59,066 --> 00:24:02,533
For generations, this family 
has raised horses.

484
00:24:02,600 --> 00:24:04,800
Horse lovers know that 
Iceland's local breed

485
00:24:04,866 --> 00:24:06,200
is special.

486
00:24:06,266 --> 00:24:09,066
Small and sturdy, these were 
first brought over

487
00:24:09,133 --> 00:24:12,733
by Vikings in the Settlement 
Age, 1,000 years ago,

488
00:24:12,800 --> 00:24:16,000
chosen because they could fit 
inside the hold of a ship,

489
00:24:16,066 --> 00:24:20,100
yet they were strong enough 
to work hard once they arrived.

490
00:24:20,166 --> 00:24:23,600
Throughout the country, you'll 
see these wind-blown beauties.

491
00:24:23,666 --> 00:24:26,233
A long-established ban on 
importing other breeds

492
00:24:26,300 --> 00:24:30,466
means that today's Icelandic 
horses are purebred and unique.

493
00:24:30,533 --> 00:24:32,966
♪

494
00:24:33,033 --> 00:24:37,166
They also have a distinctive 
gait that thrills equestrians.

495
00:24:37,233 --> 00:24:49,666
♪

496
00:24:49,733 --> 00:24:52,633
The final stop on our 
Golden Circle loop

497
00:24:52,700 --> 00:24:55,100
is one of the most 
impressive waterfalls

498
00:24:55,166 --> 00:24:57,666
in a country 
famed for waterfalls:

499
00:24:57,733 --> 00:25:01,333
Gullfoss--the Golden Falls.

500
00:25:01,400 --> 00:25:05,333
The churning glacial river 
plummets into a narrow gorge.

501
00:25:06,700 --> 00:25:10,733
Up close, the cauldron 
comes with a deafening roar.

502
00:25:10,800 --> 00:25:12,466
And even from high above,

503
00:25:12,533 --> 00:25:15,266
visitors feel 
the spray, wonderstruck.

504
00:25:16,566 --> 00:25:19,300
Gullfoss is just one of 
many waterfalls

505
00:25:19,366 --> 00:25:21,333
Iceland has to offer.

506
00:25:21,400 --> 00:25:25,066
But if you only have time 
to see one, this is it.

507
00:25:25,133 --> 00:25:29,333
It's rare anywhere on earth to 
find such a dramatic display

508
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:31,366
of water and gravity.

509
00:25:31,433 --> 00:25:36,066
♪

510
00:25:37,666 --> 00:25:41,466
Gullfoss is one of those 
places Iceland specializes in,

511
00:25:41,533 --> 00:25:43,866
where you feel 
the raw power of nature.

512
00:25:43,933 --> 00:25:47,666
It's the perfect climax 
to a Golden Circle day.

513
00:25:47,733 --> 00:25:49,933
Rick, voice-over: And the final 
leg of the Golden Circle

514
00:25:50,000 --> 00:25:53,100
takes us across a vast 
volcanic plateau.

515
00:25:53,166 --> 00:25:55,600
From this lonely lunar 
landscape, we're just

516
00:25:55,666 --> 00:25:58,200
30 minutes from 
downtown Reykjavík,

517
00:25:58,266 --> 00:26:01,500
and, as it happens, 
it's time for dinner.

518
00:26:01,566 --> 00:26:04,300
Eating in Iceland is expensive.

519
00:26:04,366 --> 00:26:06,700
Thankfully, you've got 
a range of options,

520
00:26:06,766 --> 00:26:11,533
from fish and chips 
to fine French cuisine.

521
00:26:11,600 --> 00:26:14,600
If you're willing to pay for it, 
you can eat really well.

522
00:26:14,666 --> 00:26:17,500
And tonight, we're 
enjoying a splurge.

523
00:26:17,566 --> 00:26:19,100
Rick, voice-over: This trendy 
restaurant features

524
00:26:19,166 --> 00:26:22,766
traditional local ingredients 
but with a modern twist.

525
00:26:22,833 --> 00:26:24,533
You'll find the staples 
you'd expect,

526
00:26:24,600 --> 00:26:26,433
like lamb and fish.

527
00:26:26,500 --> 00:26:28,733
♪

528
00:26:28,800 --> 00:26:31,033
While the perpetual flames of 
the kitchen kick out

529
00:26:31,100 --> 00:26:32,800
plenty of meat for carnivores,

530
00:26:32,866 --> 00:26:35,433
it always has 
a vegetarian option.

531
00:26:36,666 --> 00:26:38,833
I'm dining with my 
travel buddy and fellow

532
00:26:38,900 --> 00:26:40,600
guidebook author Cameron Hewitt,

533
00:26:40,666 --> 00:26:42,966
and we're starting our meal 
with Arctic char

534
00:26:43,033 --> 00:26:47,166
and langoustine lava rocks, 
served on a lava rock.

535
00:26:47,233 --> 00:26:48,866
Cameron: So, the inside is 
langoustine, which are

536
00:26:48,933 --> 00:26:51,733
kind of like little super-- 
super-sized shrimp.

537
00:26:51,800 --> 00:26:53,933
Rick: It's like it's tempura, 
but they...

538
00:26:54,000 --> 00:26:56,833
Cameron: They made it look 
like lava rocks on lava rock.

539
00:27:00,366 --> 00:27:02,033
Rick: Actually cooked 
in a lava flow.

540
00:27:02,100 --> 00:27:04,166
Cameron: Yeah. [Laughs] 
Rick: That's good.

541
00:27:04,233 --> 00:27:06,933
Cameron: Arctic char, which is 
kind of like--tastes like

542
00:27:07,000 --> 00:27:08,400
salmon, sort of pink fish.

543
00:27:08,466 --> 00:27:11,433
Has mustard seed 
and dill on top.

544
00:27:11,500 --> 00:27:13,800
Rick, voice-over: If this 
seems fancy, it is.

545
00:27:13,866 --> 00:27:16,733
Iceland, while expensive, 
is a place to invest

546
00:27:16,800 --> 00:27:18,366
in a memorable meal.

547
00:27:18,433 --> 00:27:20,133
Rick: It's going to cost you 
a fair amount anyway.

548
00:27:20,200 --> 00:27:22,333
So, you go just a little 
bit more, you can have this.

549
00:27:22,400 --> 00:27:23,333
Cameron: Yeah, 
that's what I think.

550
00:27:23,400 --> 00:27:24,900
You save up and eat groceries

551
00:27:24,966 --> 00:27:26,833
for a few days and then 
splurge for a meal like this.

552
00:27:26,900 --> 00:27:28,533
Rick, voice-over: For our 
main course, we're having

553
00:27:28,600 --> 00:27:29,933
some of those staples.

554
00:27:30,000 --> 00:27:31,666
Cameron's having the salted cod

555
00:27:31,733 --> 00:27:33,966
and I'm going for 
the lamb chops,

556
00:27:34,033 --> 00:27:35,800
but with sauces and presentation

557
00:27:35,866 --> 00:27:37,966
the Vikings wouldn't recognize.

558
00:27:40,766 --> 00:27:41,700
Rick: I think they know 
many ways

559
00:27:41,766 --> 00:27:42,933
to do cod here, I would imagine.

560
00:27:43,000 --> 00:27:44,500
Cameron: Yeah, it's very good.

561
00:27:44,566 --> 00:27:46,866
Rick, voice-over: To drink, 
I prefer something domestic--

562
00:27:46,933 --> 00:27:50,033
and this island definitely 
doesn't produce any wine.

563
00:27:50,100 --> 00:27:53,166
Instead, it's a local microbrew.

564
00:27:53,233 --> 00:27:56,266
Finally, it's 
profiteroles for dessert.

565
00:27:56,333 --> 00:28:00,333
With this, that fermented 
shark is a distant memory,

566
00:28:00,400 --> 00:28:03,566
and that is certainly 
worth paying a premium for.

567
00:28:07,500 --> 00:28:09,633
From here in downtown 
Reykjavík, we'll drive

568
00:28:09,700 --> 00:28:13,333
800 miles all the way around 
Iceland's Ring Road.

569
00:28:13,400 --> 00:28:15,566
Which highway? 
Highway 1, of course.

570
00:28:15,633 --> 00:28:17,466
You can't get lost.

571
00:28:17,533 --> 00:28:20,800
Rick, voice-over: On the first 
leg is Iceland's South Coast.

572
00:28:20,866 --> 00:28:23,466
Just two hours from Reykjavík 
and we're already

573
00:28:23,533 --> 00:28:26,433
deep in the thrills, 
chalking up the experiences

574
00:28:26,500 --> 00:28:28,433
people visiting here dream of.

575
00:28:30,200 --> 00:28:33,900
Driving the entire Ring Road 
takes about 30 hours non-stop.

576
00:28:33,966 --> 00:28:37,133
To do it justice, you need 
at least 5 or 6 days.

577
00:28:37,200 --> 00:28:38,633
You can go in either direction--

578
00:28:38,700 --> 00:28:40,366
we're going counter-clockwise--

579
00:28:40,433 --> 00:28:43,600
and it's summertime, so, 
it stays light really late.

580
00:28:44,766 --> 00:28:46,633
Rick, voice-over: 
Seljalandsfoss--one of Iceland's

581
00:28:46,700 --> 00:28:50,200
most accessible waterfalls-- 
is a favorite stop.

582
00:28:50,266 --> 00:28:52,500
The water tumbles 
more than 200 feet

583
00:28:52,566 --> 00:28:56,400
from cliffs high above, 
like a bridal veil.

584
00:28:56,466 --> 00:28:59,666
On sunny days, the scene is 
like a party as everybody is

585
00:28:59,733 --> 00:29:03,166
suddenly waterfall crazy 
and connoisseurs of rainbows.

586
00:29:03,233 --> 00:29:07,000
♪

587
00:29:07,066 --> 00:29:09,100
Late in the day, 
with the setting sun,

588
00:29:09,166 --> 00:29:11,533
everyone's a photographer.

589
00:29:11,600 --> 00:29:14,866
A slippery trail leads up 
behind the cascading water

590
00:29:14,933 --> 00:29:17,966
and back here, 
the energy is palpable.

591
00:29:18,033 --> 00:29:20,600
And rain parkas 
get a good workout.

592
00:29:20,666 --> 00:29:28,333
♪

593
00:29:28,400 --> 00:29:31,300
Here in Iceland, we experience 
both the power of nature

594
00:29:31,366 --> 00:29:34,400
and the beauty of nature.

595
00:29:34,466 --> 00:29:36,733
Rick, voice-over: This country 
is expert at monetizing

596
00:29:36,800 --> 00:29:40,866
its stunning nature--making 
the great outdoors accessible.

597
00:29:40,933 --> 00:29:43,833
Each morning, rugged vehicles 
load up with tourists

598
00:29:43,900 --> 00:29:45,600
and head for the backcountry.

599
00:29:48,466 --> 00:29:50,333
We've hired one of 
these enormous trucks

600
00:29:50,400 --> 00:29:54,833
with a driver, eager 
for a thrilling experience.

601
00:29:54,900 --> 00:29:59,133
We're heading up a remote and 
rocky valley called Thorsmork.

602
00:29:59,200 --> 00:30:01,166
Even in this 
land of superlatives,

603
00:30:01,233 --> 00:30:04,166
Thorsmork is one-of-a-kind.

604
00:30:04,233 --> 00:30:07,200
Venturing far beyond where 
normal cars can tread,

605
00:30:07,266 --> 00:30:09,866
it's a land of super-vehicles.

606
00:30:09,933 --> 00:30:11,766
But it's still accessible.

607
00:30:11,833 --> 00:30:15,466
There's even a public bus 
service up this remote valley.

608
00:30:15,533 --> 00:30:17,366
All must have tires that deflate

609
00:30:17,433 --> 00:30:19,933
with the push of a button 
for extra traction.

610
00:30:21,566 --> 00:30:23,466
"Super-jeeps" and buses alike,

611
00:30:23,533 --> 00:30:25,633
equipped with these 
monster tires,

612
00:30:25,700 --> 00:30:28,133
churn through rivers of 
glacial melt,

613
00:30:28,200 --> 00:30:31,166
giving all on board 
a tale to tell.

614
00:30:31,233 --> 00:30:34,066
♪

615
00:30:34,133 --> 00:30:35,766
People come to hike.

616
00:30:35,833 --> 00:30:38,433
Remote lodges 
provide simple bases.

617
00:30:38,500 --> 00:30:41,300
Up here, nature is 
a great equalizer

618
00:30:41,366 --> 00:30:43,466
as everyone is psyching up...

619
00:30:43,533 --> 00:30:46,133
prepping to create 
that lifetime memory.

620
00:30:47,333 --> 00:30:50,466
And hikers appreciate 
the portable footbridges.

621
00:30:50,533 --> 00:30:53,566
They come with wheels to be 
repositioned each season

622
00:30:53,633 --> 00:30:56,066
depending on where 
the river flows.

623
00:30:57,566 --> 00:30:59,866
Charging deeper and deeper 
into the valley,

624
00:30:59,933 --> 00:31:02,633
I keep thinking the off-road 
prowess of our vehicle

625
00:31:02,700 --> 00:31:04,566
would make for a great TV ad.

626
00:31:04,633 --> 00:31:09,366
♪

627
00:31:09,433 --> 00:31:12,266
Finally, after parking our 
super-jeep, we actually

628
00:31:12,333 --> 00:31:14,233
work up a sweat 
with a short hike.

629
00:31:15,700 --> 00:31:18,200
Feeling small in this 
primeval setting,

630
00:31:18,266 --> 00:31:21,266
we're humbled at the majesty 
of what surrounds us.

631
00:31:21,333 --> 00:31:23,633
♪

632
00:31:23,700 --> 00:31:26,300
And glaciers, reaching down 
from the mountains,

633
00:31:26,366 --> 00:31:29,700
remind us of Iceland's 
snowcapped rooftop.

634
00:31:31,066 --> 00:31:34,600
The black on the ice is ash. 
It's from volcanic eruptions.

635
00:31:34,666 --> 00:31:36,533
Could be fresh, 
could be very old.

636
00:31:38,266 --> 00:31:40,366
Rick, voice-over: 
Nature is dynamic here.

637
00:31:40,433 --> 00:31:44,333
It's unpredictable. 
It changes without asking.

638
00:31:44,400 --> 00:31:46,766
Savoring this moment, 
it occurs to me,

639
00:31:46,833 --> 00:31:50,866
this is Europe, wilder than 
I've ever experienced.

640
00:31:50,933 --> 00:32:00,266
♪

641
00:32:00,333 --> 00:32:03,233
Highway 1 laces together 
a steady parade

642
00:32:03,300 --> 00:32:05,633
of side-tripping options.

643
00:32:05,700 --> 00:32:08,400
Each detour comes with 
a convenient lesson

644
00:32:08,466 --> 00:32:10,266
in the local history,

645
00:32:10,333 --> 00:32:12,866
and a schematic map 
locating every farm,

646
00:32:12,933 --> 00:32:13,933
place to eat or sleep,

647
00:32:14,000 --> 00:32:14,933
and point of interest

648
00:32:15,000 --> 00:32:16,500
on that smaller road.

649
00:32:17,766 --> 00:32:20,033
Like any road trip, 
doing the Ring Road

650
00:32:20,100 --> 00:32:22,900
requires multiple 
one-night stays.

651
00:32:22,966 --> 00:32:25,466
There are plenty of 
accommodation options.

652
00:32:25,533 --> 00:32:29,933
They range from big boxy 
hotels to pre-fab cabins,

653
00:32:30,000 --> 00:32:35,000
tight little yurts, 
remote hostels, and camping.

654
00:32:35,066 --> 00:32:37,866
Many enjoy a camper van 
or pitching a tent.

655
00:32:37,933 --> 00:32:39,900
Efficient and scenic 
campgrounds help

656
00:32:39,966 --> 00:32:43,400
budget travelers both save money 
on hotels and meals

657
00:32:43,466 --> 00:32:46,200
and enjoy a wonderful circle 
of new friends.

658
00:32:46,266 --> 00:32:52,033
♪

659
00:32:52,100 --> 00:32:54,666
It's been a long day 
of sightseeing for us.

660
00:32:54,733 --> 00:32:56,366
Time to settle in.

661
00:32:56,433 --> 00:32:58,933
Like with so many farms, 
this family is meeting

662
00:32:59,000 --> 00:33:03,933
the new demand, housing more 
tourists and fewer animals.

663
00:33:04,000 --> 00:33:05,800
The welcome is warm.

664
00:33:05,866 --> 00:33:07,200
Rick: I'm Rick Steves.

665
00:33:07,266 --> 00:33:08,766
Man: Hello, Mr. Steves. 
How are you today?

666
00:33:08,833 --> 00:33:10,900
Rick: I'm good. 
It's nice to be here.

667
00:33:10,966 --> 00:33:13,833
Rick, voice-over: The rooms are 
simple, but plenty comfortable.

668
00:33:13,900 --> 00:33:17,100
♪

669
00:33:17,166 --> 00:33:21,233
And the views are...Icelandic.

670
00:33:21,300 --> 00:33:25,033
♪

671
00:33:25,100 --> 00:33:27,400
A major stop on 
the Iceland grand tour

672
00:33:27,466 --> 00:33:31,233
is the Westman Islands, 
just a 40-minute ferry crossing

673
00:33:31,300 --> 00:33:32,433
from the South Coast.

674
00:33:32,500 --> 00:33:34,766
♪

675
00:33:34,833 --> 00:33:38,266
While locals sit inside, 
tourists soak up the view

676
00:33:38,333 --> 00:33:40,966
as we approach the craggy 
group of islands.

677
00:33:41,033 --> 00:33:48,366
♪

678
00:33:48,433 --> 00:33:50,833
The ferry squeezes 
into the harbor.

679
00:33:50,900 --> 00:33:53,300
And tucked into the shelter 
of the cliffs,

680
00:33:53,366 --> 00:33:55,833
our port comes into view.

681
00:33:55,900 --> 00:33:59,400
The Westman Islands' only town 
is a fishing community

682
00:33:59,466 --> 00:34:02,100
surrounded by sea cliffs 
and a rugged terrain

683
00:34:02,166 --> 00:34:05,633
shaped by eons of 
volcanic eruptions.

684
00:34:05,700 --> 00:34:08,066
Sightseeing boats are 
dwarfed and outnumbered

685
00:34:08,133 --> 00:34:10,200
by a fleet of fishing boats.

686
00:34:10,266 --> 00:34:12,300
Visitors strolling 
the boardwalk sense how

687
00:34:12,366 --> 00:34:14,066
fishing is big in this country,

688
00:34:14,133 --> 00:34:17,066
and the Westman Islands fleet 
is the leading producer.

689
00:34:17,133 --> 00:34:19,066
♪

690
00:34:19,133 --> 00:34:21,433
Main Street has 
most of the commerce.

691
00:34:22,700 --> 00:34:25,433
And it leads past inviting 
neighborhood lanes

692
00:34:25,500 --> 00:34:28,100
to a classic Icelandic church.

693
00:34:28,166 --> 00:34:32,733
But the island is best known 
for a fiery eruption in 1973

694
00:34:32,800 --> 00:34:34,633
when its volcano blew.

695
00:34:34,700 --> 00:34:37,200
It was a massive event.

696
00:34:37,266 --> 00:34:40,100
The island actually 
increased in size.

697
00:34:41,466 --> 00:34:44,333
The town's Volcano Museum 
tells the story.

698
00:34:45,600 --> 00:34:48,433
One frightening night, 
the slumbering volcano

699
00:34:48,500 --> 00:34:51,300
above town rumbled 
violently to life.

700
00:34:51,366 --> 00:34:54,300
Everyone evacuated by morning, 
but for months,

701
00:34:54,366 --> 00:34:56,966
molten lava flowed, 
slowly creeping

702
00:34:57,033 --> 00:34:59,500
closer and closer 
to the town center.

703
00:34:59,566 --> 00:35:01,533
♪

704
00:35:01,600 --> 00:35:04,100
The museum's centerpiece 
is an actual house

705
00:35:04,166 --> 00:35:07,100
that was completely 
engulfed by the lava.

706
00:35:07,166 --> 00:35:10,966
♪

707
00:35:13,466 --> 00:35:16,366
50 years ago, this was 
an oozing wall

708
00:35:16,433 --> 00:35:18,566
of red-hot molten lava.

709
00:35:18,633 --> 00:35:22,666
It was a slow-motion disaster 
gradually consuming the town.

710
00:35:22,733 --> 00:35:25,633
Thankfully, 
it stopped right here.

711
00:35:25,700 --> 00:35:27,233
Rick, voice-over: Back at 
the harbor front, we're catching

712
00:35:27,300 --> 00:35:29,566
a mini-bus tour to get 
a more personal take

713
00:35:29,633 --> 00:35:33,466
on that terrifying eruption 
and to explore the island.

714
00:35:33,533 --> 00:35:35,800
Local guide Ebbi was 
born and raised here,

715
00:35:35,866 --> 00:35:39,400
knows the island, 
and is ready to roll.

716
00:35:39,466 --> 00:35:43,100
We're driving on lava left 
from the 1973 eruption.

717
00:35:44,300 --> 00:35:46,500
Ebbi: So, you know, 
good things, bad things

718
00:35:46,566 --> 00:35:48,700
with this--this huge 
eruption like this.

719
00:35:48,766 --> 00:35:51,400
Now, nobody died 
because of the eruption,

720
00:35:51,466 --> 00:35:52,933
which is a very good thing.

721
00:35:53,000 --> 00:35:54,700
We've gained also about 20%.

722
00:35:54,766 --> 00:35:56,800
The island increased 
in size about 20%.

723
00:35:56,866 --> 00:35:59,200
Rick: And you're more 
famous for tourists now.

724
00:35:59,266 --> 00:36:02,200
Ebbi: Well, yes, 
it got us on the map also.

725
00:36:02,266 --> 00:36:05,633
Underneath us are streets. 
50 meters down underneath us,

726
00:36:05,700 --> 00:36:07,400
we have streets, we have houses.

727
00:36:07,466 --> 00:36:10,600
Actually, not far from here 
is my grandparents' house.

728
00:36:10,666 --> 00:36:13,600
And right here below 
is one of our schools.

729
00:36:13,666 --> 00:36:17,766
This marking here is 
a memorial about a house

730
00:36:17,833 --> 00:36:20,066
underneath here from 
a wealthy fisherman.

731
00:36:20,133 --> 00:36:21,233
Rick: This house 
was straight down?

732
00:36:21,300 --> 00:36:23,033
Ebbi: This house 
right underneath us here.

733
00:36:23,100 --> 00:36:27,366
And everywhere on this lava, 
we have these wooden crosses,

734
00:36:27,433 --> 00:36:29,266
like this one here, for example.

735
00:36:29,333 --> 00:36:31,400
This is called "Landagata."

736
00:36:31,466 --> 00:36:33,233
One of many streets 
that went under.

737
00:36:33,300 --> 00:36:34,400
Rick: So, that's 
the name of a street?

738
00:36:34,466 --> 00:36:35,600
Ebbi: There's the name of 
the street

739
00:36:35,666 --> 00:36:37,100
right underneath us.

740
00:36:37,166 --> 00:36:38,900
Rick, voice-over: 
The town side of the lava ridge

741
00:36:38,966 --> 00:36:41,366
has additional examples 
of what was lost

742
00:36:41,433 --> 00:36:43,766
and reminders of how 
the entire town

743
00:36:43,833 --> 00:36:46,066
could have been consumed 
by the lava flow.

744
00:36:47,433 --> 00:36:53,633
♪

745
00:36:53,700 --> 00:36:55,900
With Ebbi's help, we learned 
about the island's

746
00:36:55,966 --> 00:36:58,833
long Viking history 
and the hardships of living

747
00:36:58,900 --> 00:37:02,600
on an isolated island so long 
ago here in the far north.

748
00:37:03,733 --> 00:37:06,333
Early settlers soon learned 
that on such a harsh

749
00:37:06,400 --> 00:37:08,566
volcanic island 
with poor farmland,

750
00:37:08,633 --> 00:37:11,700
you have to come up with some 
creative ways to feed yourself.

751
00:37:11,766 --> 00:37:13,366
Ebbi: We have never been 
any kind of farmers

752
00:37:13,433 --> 00:37:16,600
because we're a volcano island, 
but we had to eat.

753
00:37:16,666 --> 00:37:18,333
We have fish, plenty of fish,

754
00:37:18,400 --> 00:37:21,300
and the only wildlife 
we have here are the birds.

755
00:37:21,366 --> 00:37:22,533
So, we would eat the eggs.

756
00:37:22,600 --> 00:37:25,933
We collected eggs 
because of survival.

757
00:37:26,000 --> 00:37:27,166
Rick: The nests are 
on the cliff.

758
00:37:27,233 --> 00:37:28,866
How did they harvest the eggs?

759
00:37:28,933 --> 00:37:31,566
Ebbi: So, you will have to 
come down in a safety rope

760
00:37:31,633 --> 00:37:33,866
and you learn how to 
collect the eggs here.

761
00:37:33,933 --> 00:37:36,433
And we swing over to where 
we want to go

762
00:37:36,500 --> 00:37:38,433
to collect the eggs, 
and we swing back.

763
00:37:38,500 --> 00:37:41,100
And that is also 
a safety reason.

764
00:37:41,166 --> 00:37:43,800
So, if birds are attacking 
you, you can swing away.

765
00:37:45,400 --> 00:37:47,233
Rick, voice-over: We moved 
to another cliff to learn

766
00:37:47,300 --> 00:37:50,533
how the tradition of 
egg collecting, or sprangan,

767
00:37:50,600 --> 00:37:53,566
is passed on to 
the next generation.

768
00:37:53,633 --> 00:37:56,066
Rick: Do people still know 
how to do this practice?

769
00:37:56,133 --> 00:37:58,033
Ebbi: Absolutely. 
This is a traditional thing

770
00:37:58,100 --> 00:37:59,666
that every local kids 
will learn.

771
00:37:59,733 --> 00:38:01,666
We start at age of 
8 or 9 years old.

772
00:38:01,733 --> 00:38:04,800
Like this girl here, 
she's about 13 years old.

773
00:38:04,866 --> 00:38:06,633
Both boys and girls 
will learn this.

774
00:38:06,700 --> 00:38:11,266
This is a traditional thing 
that every local kid learns.

775
00:38:11,333 --> 00:38:13,366
Literally, your grandfather 
or grandma

776
00:38:13,433 --> 00:38:15,233
will show you 
literally the ropes.

777
00:38:15,300 --> 00:38:17,200
And this is the first thing 
you learn

778
00:38:17,266 --> 00:38:19,500
before you go up 
and collect the eggs.

779
00:38:19,566 --> 00:38:21,166
First you learn sprangan.

780
00:38:21,233 --> 00:38:22,666
Then you learn how 
to collect the eggs.

781
00:38:22,733 --> 00:38:25,300
It's not a matter 
of "we have to."

782
00:38:25,366 --> 00:38:29,666
It is a matter of 
not forgetting how it was,

783
00:38:29,733 --> 00:38:33,300
how we had to 
collect the eggs for survival.

784
00:38:33,366 --> 00:38:35,900
The rule is, if there are 
four eggs, you can take two.

785
00:38:35,966 --> 00:38:37,466
If there are three eggs, 
you can take one.

786
00:38:37,533 --> 00:38:40,066
You always leave two eggs behind

787
00:38:40,133 --> 00:38:42,733
because we don't want to 
damage the bird colonies here.

788
00:38:42,800 --> 00:38:44,600
And we've been doing 
this for 1,000 years.

789
00:38:44,666 --> 00:38:45,900
Still we have 
all the birds here,

790
00:38:45,966 --> 00:38:47,633
so, we must be 
doing something right.

791
00:38:47,700 --> 00:38:49,100
Rick, voice-over: 
And as if to prove his point,

792
00:38:49,166 --> 00:38:51,733
Ebbi takes us to 
a thriving puffin colony

793
00:38:51,800 --> 00:38:54,500
popular with birders 
and tourists alike.

794
00:38:54,566 --> 00:38:55,800
Ebbi: So, this location here

795
00:38:55,866 --> 00:38:59,100
is the biggest 
puffin colony in the world.

796
00:38:59,166 --> 00:39:02,033
Now, people come here to 
see the puffins, of course.

797
00:39:02,100 --> 00:39:04,800
The puffins, they live 
in the ocean for eight months.

798
00:39:04,866 --> 00:39:06,800
And they're only here 
during the summer

799
00:39:06,866 --> 00:39:08,166
just to do that one thing.

800
00:39:08,233 --> 00:39:09,366
And that is to make that

801
00:39:09,433 --> 00:39:11,200
one egg a year that they make.

802
00:39:11,266 --> 00:39:14,000
They make one egg 
per year, per couple.

803
00:39:14,066 --> 00:39:17,666
Now, the...half of the colony 
is right now underneath here.

804
00:39:17,733 --> 00:39:19,800
There are thousands of birds

805
00:39:19,866 --> 00:39:21,500
sitting, taking care of the egg.

806
00:39:21,566 --> 00:39:23,800
Right now. 
Underneath us right now.

807
00:39:23,866 --> 00:39:25,400
Rick: Under us. 
Ebbi: Underneath us.

808
00:39:25,466 --> 00:39:28,266
Everywhere is a burrow 
where they've digged in

809
00:39:28,333 --> 00:39:31,300
and they have this, like 
an apartment, kind of.

810
00:39:31,366 --> 00:39:33,633
And half of the colony 
is outside

811
00:39:33,700 --> 00:39:36,200
and out in the ocean 
getting fish,

812
00:39:36,266 --> 00:39:39,633
and the other half is 
taking care of the eggs.

813
00:39:39,700 --> 00:39:42,066
And people all around the world

814
00:39:42,133 --> 00:39:44,866
come to see the puffins, 
of course.

815
00:39:44,933 --> 00:39:45,933
And they come here.

816
00:39:46,000 --> 00:39:49,666
♪

817
00:39:52,633 --> 00:39:54,666
Rick, voice-over: Back on 
the mainland, we're continuing

818
00:39:54,733 --> 00:39:56,300
around the Ring Road.

819
00:39:56,366 --> 00:39:58,933
And there're lots more 
dramatic natural sights.

820
00:40:00,666 --> 00:40:03,300
From this rugged promontory, 
on a clear day,

821
00:40:03,366 --> 00:40:06,066
you can see virtually 
the entire South Coast.

822
00:40:06,133 --> 00:40:09,733
♪

823
00:40:09,800 --> 00:40:12,700
And just below is one of 
this volcanic island's

824
00:40:12,766 --> 00:40:14,866
many black sand beaches.

825
00:40:14,933 --> 00:40:18,433
Travelers are enthralled 
by this fantastical landscape.

826
00:40:18,500 --> 00:40:20,433
♪

827
00:40:20,500 --> 00:40:23,333
Sea stacks 
rise out of the briny waves.

828
00:40:24,600 --> 00:40:27,800
Basalt formations bring out 
the kid in every adventurer.

829
00:40:27,866 --> 00:40:31,900
♪

830
00:40:31,966 --> 00:40:35,233
A windy walk immersed 
in this pristine beauty

831
00:40:35,300 --> 00:40:38,100
can be unforgettable.

832
00:40:38,166 --> 00:40:40,066
Marking the end of 
the South Coast,

833
00:40:40,133 --> 00:40:42,466
the village of Vík 
is the southernmost

834
00:40:42,533 --> 00:40:44,133
settlement in Iceland.

835
00:40:44,200 --> 00:40:46,866
Vik is both humble and sparse-- 
little more

836
00:40:46,933 --> 00:40:49,233
than a practical pit stop 
for travelers.

837
00:40:50,200 --> 00:40:52,866
And for this village, 
that's nothing new.

838
00:40:52,933 --> 00:40:55,566
Historically, 
there was no harbor.

839
00:40:55,633 --> 00:40:58,000
A century ago, before 
the arrival of the road,

840
00:40:58,066 --> 00:41:01,500
provisions came in by boats 
beached on this shore.

841
00:41:02,766 --> 00:41:05,066
What we've done so far, 
with Cameron Hewitt,

842
00:41:05,133 --> 00:41:07,833
who co-authors guidebooks 
with me, is all within

843
00:41:07,900 --> 00:41:10,133
day-tripping distance 
from Reykjavík.

844
00:41:12,900 --> 00:41:17,100
Rick: Reykjavík is 3 hours 
that way, or 6 days that way.

845
00:41:17,166 --> 00:41:19,300
I'm heading straight back 
to work on the book.

846
00:41:19,366 --> 00:41:21,633
But we'll follow 
Cameron and the crew

847
00:41:21,700 --> 00:41:24,700
as he does his research 
the long way around.

848
00:41:24,766 --> 00:41:26,633
We'll meet up back in Reykjavík.

849
00:41:29,066 --> 00:41:31,666
Rick, voice-over: Leaving Vík, 
the traffic thins out

850
00:41:31,733 --> 00:41:33,466
and the landscape opens up.

851
00:41:34,933 --> 00:41:37,033
We've just left Rick 
in Vík, and now we're

852
00:41:37,100 --> 00:41:38,766
continuing around the Ring Road.

853
00:41:38,833 --> 00:41:40,733
And, you know, already 
the terrain is changing

854
00:41:40,800 --> 00:41:41,966
and the weather is changing.

855
00:41:42,033 --> 00:41:43,966
In fact, Iceland 
is always changing.

856
00:41:44,033 --> 00:41:46,000
That's why it's so important 
for us to go and travel

857
00:41:46,066 --> 00:41:48,100
in person to update our 
guidebooks to make sure

858
00:41:48,166 --> 00:41:50,500
we have 
the very latest information.

859
00:41:50,566 --> 00:41:52,866
Rick, voice-over: The next stop 
is glacier country.

860
00:41:52,933 --> 00:41:56,866
1/10 of Iceland is covered in 
glaciers, and the biggest one

861
00:41:56,933 --> 00:41:59,600
spreads across the top 
of these mountains.

862
00:41:59,666 --> 00:42:02,600
Its many outlets--called 
tongues--reach down

863
00:42:02,666 --> 00:42:04,800
and lap at lowland valleys.

864
00:42:05,833 --> 00:42:09,866
The road crosses vast plains 
of glacial grit and gravel,

865
00:42:09,933 --> 00:42:11,500
laced with milky rivers.

866
00:42:11,566 --> 00:42:14,100
♪

867
00:42:14,166 --> 00:42:16,766
At the foot of some glaciers 
are lagoons

868
00:42:16,833 --> 00:42:20,000
bobbing with small icebergs 
that have broken off.

869
00:42:20,066 --> 00:42:22,866
Lagoon cruises take 
tourists out on these

870
00:42:22,933 --> 00:42:25,166
moody and beautiful waters.

871
00:42:25,233 --> 00:42:28,166
♪

872
00:42:29,266 --> 00:42:31,733
Passengers gear up 
in heavy jackets

873
00:42:31,800 --> 00:42:33,633
and prepare for the adventure.

874
00:42:34,733 --> 00:42:37,433
They climb into 
inflatable boats and then

875
00:42:37,500 --> 00:42:39,666
float through 
this dreamy landscape.

876
00:42:40,800 --> 00:42:43,300
It's an unforgettable 
experience,

877
00:42:43,366 --> 00:42:44,666
no matter the weather.

878
00:42:44,733 --> 00:42:46,766
Our enthusiastic guide offers

879
00:42:46,833 --> 00:42:49,433
a lesson in glaciers 101.

880
00:42:49,500 --> 00:42:52,866
Man: Then, of course, there's 
the white ice and the blue ice.

881
00:42:52,933 --> 00:42:54,566
Rick, voice-over: 
He explains how and why

882
00:42:54,633 --> 00:42:56,800
there are different colors 
of ice.

883
00:42:56,866 --> 00:42:58,800
There's black ice, 
which is coated with

884
00:42:58,866 --> 00:43:01,033
dirt or volcanic ash.

885
00:43:01,100 --> 00:43:03,800
Then there's white ice, which 
is packed with air bubbles.

886
00:43:04,833 --> 00:43:07,700
Transparent ice 
has fewer air bubbles.

887
00:43:07,766 --> 00:43:10,733
And then blue ice, which is 
highly compressed and dense,

888
00:43:10,800 --> 00:43:12,433
has no air bubbles at all,

889
00:43:12,500 --> 00:43:14,900
and reflects 
blue light intensely.

890
00:43:16,066 --> 00:43:18,266
Travelers get the chance 
to hold a chunk of ice

891
00:43:18,333 --> 00:43:22,500
that originally fell 
as snow...500 years ago.

892
00:43:22,566 --> 00:43:26,466
The guide explains how glaciers 
naturally grow and recede.

893
00:43:26,533 --> 00:43:28,366
In fact, 
this glacier used to extend

894
00:43:28,433 --> 00:43:31,833
all the way across the lagoon 
at the end of the 19th century

895
00:43:31,900 --> 00:43:35,666
but has been retreating now 
for over 130 years.

896
00:43:35,733 --> 00:43:38,166
Man: It is absolutely natural, 
absolutely normal that at

897
00:43:38,233 --> 00:43:40,166
some points, 
the glaciers are growing.

898
00:43:40,233 --> 00:43:42,166
At some point, 
the glaciers are retreating.

899
00:43:42,233 --> 00:43:43,833
But now the glaciers 
are retreating

900
00:43:43,900 --> 00:43:47,133
way, way faster 
because of global warming.

901
00:43:47,200 --> 00:43:49,133
Rick, voice-over: Even from 
the shore, people marvel

902
00:43:49,200 --> 00:43:52,200
at how glacial ice comes in 
a stunning variety of

903
00:43:52,266 --> 00:43:54,766
shapes, sizes, and colors.

904
00:43:55,866 --> 00:43:58,633
The wind pushes the icebergs 
into a traffic jam

905
00:43:58,700 --> 00:44:01,066
where the lagoon 
meets the Atlantic.

906
00:44:01,133 --> 00:44:03,700
Birds and seals feed 
in the swirling waters

907
00:44:03,766 --> 00:44:08,133
as the icebergs wait for their 
final journey out to sea.

908
00:44:08,200 --> 00:44:11,233
When conditions are right, 
chunks of ice wash up

909
00:44:11,300 --> 00:44:13,866
on the nearby black-sand beach.

910
00:44:13,933 --> 00:44:16,266
Nicknamed "Diamond Beach," 
it looks like

911
00:44:16,333 --> 00:44:20,600
thousands of gigantic gems 
scattered over black velvet.

912
00:44:25,233 --> 00:44:27,333
Leaving the glaciers behind, 
the Ring Road

913
00:44:27,400 --> 00:44:28,933
hugs the wild coastline.

914
00:44:29,000 --> 00:44:31,366
The churning 
North Atlantic surf crashes

915
00:44:31,433 --> 00:44:34,800
on deserted beaches 
and rocky shores.

916
00:44:34,866 --> 00:44:37,300
Soon, yawning bays 
grow narrower,

917
00:44:37,366 --> 00:44:39,733
becoming the serene fjords 
that slice

918
00:44:39,800 --> 00:44:42,800
deep into the east coast 
of Iceland.

919
00:44:42,866 --> 00:44:46,200
Driving along the Eastfjords 
is long and slow,

920
00:44:46,266 --> 00:44:48,000
but always scenic.

921
00:44:48,066 --> 00:44:50,233
♪

922
00:44:50,300 --> 00:44:54,900
And around each bend unfolds 
one grand fjord after another.

923
00:44:57,500 --> 00:45:00,100
Tucked away at the deepest 
point in one fjord

924
00:45:00,166 --> 00:45:03,800
is the colorful village 
of Seydisfjordur.

925
00:45:03,866 --> 00:45:06,833
This charming place is 
a magnet for young artists

926
00:45:06,900 --> 00:45:09,366
who appreciate 
its majestic setting,

927
00:45:09,433 --> 00:45:13,566
vibrant murals, and trendy 
places to eat and drink.

928
00:45:13,633 --> 00:45:16,533
♪

929
00:45:16,600 --> 00:45:20,000
It's a welcome pocket of 
quirky creativity

930
00:45:20,066 --> 00:45:21,966
in this very remote corner.

931
00:45:22,033 --> 00:45:27,133
♪

932
00:45:30,233 --> 00:45:33,200
Leaving the fjords and turning 
inland, the road crosses

933
00:45:33,266 --> 00:45:36,233
the vast and arid Highlands.

934
00:45:36,300 --> 00:45:38,366
Tucked away in these rocky folds

935
00:45:38,433 --> 00:45:40,766
is another iconic waterfall.

936
00:45:42,166 --> 00:45:44,400
Arriving at what looks like 
just a desolate

937
00:45:44,466 --> 00:45:47,166
volcanic landscape, 
if you follow the trail,

938
00:45:47,233 --> 00:45:49,900
you'll hear the thundering falls 
before you see them.

939
00:45:49,966 --> 00:45:51,933
[Water rushing]

940
00:45:52,000 --> 00:45:55,366
Dettifoss is this country's 
most powerful waterfall...

941
00:45:55,433 --> 00:45:58,866
♪

942
00:45:58,933 --> 00:46:02,533
with 50,000 gallons of water 
every second

943
00:46:02,600 --> 00:46:05,233
tumbling through 
an awe-inspiring gorge

944
00:46:05,300 --> 00:46:06,900
of basalt cliffs.

945
00:46:06,966 --> 00:46:11,033
♪

946
00:46:11,100 --> 00:46:14,066
The falls fill the air 
with mist and rainbows...

947
00:46:14,133 --> 00:46:16,066
♪

948
00:46:16,133 --> 00:46:18,766
and fill visitors 
with an appreciation

949
00:46:18,833 --> 00:46:21,733
for the grandeur 
of Icelandic nature.

950
00:46:26,000 --> 00:46:28,300
Continuing west, 
the barren plateau

951
00:46:28,366 --> 00:46:32,000
gives way to the green oasis 
of Lake Myvatn.

952
00:46:32,066 --> 00:46:35,100
♪

953
00:46:35,166 --> 00:46:37,266
Ringing the lake 
is a wide variety

954
00:46:37,333 --> 00:46:39,300
of volcanic landscapes.

955
00:46:39,366 --> 00:46:42,433
Compact and accessible, 
Myvatn feels like

956
00:46:42,500 --> 00:46:44,066
Iceland's Yellowstone.

957
00:46:44,133 --> 00:46:46,066
♪

958
00:46:46,133 --> 00:46:48,800
Along the lakeshore, 
these "pseudo-craters"

959
00:46:48,866 --> 00:46:53,133
are giant burst bubbles of 
molten rock...stopped in time.

960
00:46:54,466 --> 00:46:58,133
At these pinnacles of lava-- 
called the "Dark Castles"--

961
00:46:58,200 --> 00:47:01,500
families and hikers love 
exploring a maze of trails

962
00:47:01,566 --> 00:47:03,500
between fanciful landforms.

963
00:47:03,566 --> 00:47:07,433
♪

964
00:47:07,500 --> 00:47:10,733
And looming over the lakeshore 
is a perfect

965
00:47:10,800 --> 00:47:12,566
volcanic ash crater.

966
00:47:13,966 --> 00:47:16,933
Bizarrely beautiful, 
like visiting a moonscape,

967
00:47:17,033 --> 00:47:19,166
it's one more indelible memory

968
00:47:19,233 --> 00:47:22,100
that comes with 
driving the Ring Road.

969
00:47:23,500 --> 00:47:27,900
Nearby, the geothermal 
activity keeps on simmering.

970
00:47:27,966 --> 00:47:30,266
Visitors wander through 
this mind-bending,

971
00:47:30,333 --> 00:47:32,066
almost Martian landscape.

972
00:47:33,300 --> 00:47:35,300
Mud puddles bubble and steam.

973
00:47:36,700 --> 00:47:39,066
Fumaroles hiss like teakettles.

974
00:47:39,133 --> 00:47:41,733
♪

975
00:47:41,800 --> 00:47:45,400
The terrain is brushed 
in vivid colors.

976
00:47:45,466 --> 00:47:48,866
And everything reeks of sulfur.

977
00:47:48,933 --> 00:48:05,366
♪

978
00:48:05,433 --> 00:48:06,600
You know, 
when you come to a place

979
00:48:06,666 --> 00:48:08,433
as unusual as this, 
the real challenge

980
00:48:08,500 --> 00:48:10,100
for a travel writer 
is figuring out

981
00:48:10,166 --> 00:48:12,933
how to capture the sort of 
sense of awe and wonder,

982
00:48:13,000 --> 00:48:14,433
and the essence of a place, 
and then

983
00:48:14,500 --> 00:48:16,600
translate that into words.

984
00:48:16,666 --> 00:48:18,466
Rick, voice-over: Nearby 
geothermal plants harness

985
00:48:18,533 --> 00:48:20,633
all this volcanic power 
for heating

986
00:48:20,700 --> 00:48:22,600
and to generate electricity...

987
00:48:22,666 --> 00:48:24,433
and even here in the far north,

988
00:48:24,500 --> 00:48:27,933
Icelanders use their 
endless hot water just for fun.

989
00:48:29,233 --> 00:48:32,300
The Myvatn Nature Baths, 
overlooking the steamy

990
00:48:32,366 --> 00:48:35,600
volcanic landscape, are 
a popular place to unwind

991
00:48:35,666 --> 00:48:38,700
in warm water tinted 
with natural minerals.

992
00:48:44,166 --> 00:48:47,333
The landscape changes again 
up along the north coast.

993
00:48:49,766 --> 00:48:52,400
The Ring Road itself is 
a scenic spine around Iceland,

994
00:48:52,466 --> 00:48:54,000
but if you just stick 
to Highway 1,

995
00:48:54,066 --> 00:48:55,500
there's a lot you might miss.

996
00:48:55,566 --> 00:48:57,166
That's why, if you have 
a good guidebook,

997
00:48:57,233 --> 00:48:59,333
you'll know which of 
the side trips and detours

998
00:48:59,400 --> 00:49:01,100
are most worth the extra miles.

999
00:49:03,000 --> 00:49:05,400
Rick, voice-over: And one 
of those is Húsavík,

1000
00:49:05,466 --> 00:49:08,800
with its salty and picturesque 
harbor on a protected bay,

1001
00:49:08,866 --> 00:49:10,466
and a proud fishing heritage.

1002
00:49:10,533 --> 00:49:12,700
♪

1003
00:49:12,766 --> 00:49:15,766
Today, a stop here 
educates visitors

1004
00:49:15,833 --> 00:49:17,700
about Iceland's whales.

1005
00:49:18,966 --> 00:49:22,233
The Húsavík Whale Museum 
displays the bones of whales

1006
00:49:22,300 --> 00:49:24,633
that have washed ashore 
from around the island.

1007
00:49:24,700 --> 00:49:27,566
♪

1008
00:49:27,633 --> 00:49:30,133
The lovingly displayed 
skeletons teach visitors

1009
00:49:30,200 --> 00:49:32,200
about these magnificent mammals.

1010
00:49:32,266 --> 00:49:35,533
♪

1011
00:49:35,600 --> 00:49:38,900
The star of the show-- 
an 80-foot-long blue whale,

1012
00:49:38,966 --> 00:49:41,900
with a rib cage 
as big as a truck.

1013
00:49:45,466 --> 00:49:48,433
For a chance to watch living 
whales, out at the harbor,

1014
00:49:48,500 --> 00:49:51,100
visitors choose between 
classic fishing boats

1015
00:49:51,166 --> 00:49:53,000
or--for 
a little more adventure--

1016
00:49:53,066 --> 00:49:55,666
high-speed inflatables.

1017
00:49:55,733 --> 00:49:59,666
Whale watchers suit up 
and prepare for the journey.

1018
00:49:59,733 --> 00:50:03,000
Tourists climb on board, 
excited for the possibility

1019
00:50:03,066 --> 00:50:06,800
of a close encounter 
with a gentle giant.

1020
00:50:06,866 --> 00:50:09,966
If they're lucky, they may 
come home with happy memories

1021
00:50:10,033 --> 00:50:13,100
of breaching humpbacks 
and curious orcas.

1022
00:50:13,166 --> 00:50:35,800
♪

1023
00:50:39,366 --> 00:50:41,466
Continuing across 
Iceland's north,

1024
00:50:41,533 --> 00:50:44,800
the coastal road curls around 
the Troll Peninsula,

1025
00:50:44,866 --> 00:50:47,300
with sweeping vistas 
toward the Arctic Circle.

1026
00:50:49,866 --> 00:50:51,566
At the tip of 
the Troll Peninsula

1027
00:50:51,633 --> 00:50:55,366
sits the historic fishing town 
of Siglufjordur.

1028
00:50:55,433 --> 00:50:56,866
The mountains at the mouth 
of the fjord

1029
00:50:56,933 --> 00:50:58,433
protect the little harbor.

1030
00:50:58,500 --> 00:51:01,000
And behind it 
is an endearing museum

1031
00:51:01,066 --> 00:51:03,933
that tells the story 
of how, around 1900,

1032
00:51:04,000 --> 00:51:07,433
this became a boom town 
for herring.

1033
00:51:07,500 --> 00:51:09,866
Visitors learn how these 
tough, little boats

1034
00:51:09,933 --> 00:51:11,366
caught mountains of herring--

1035
00:51:11,433 --> 00:51:14,066
a nutritious 
and highly prized food.

1036
00:51:14,133 --> 00:51:17,333
This herring harvest powered 
Iceland's fledgling economy

1037
00:51:17,400 --> 00:51:19,966
through the first half 
of the 20th century.

1038
00:51:20,033 --> 00:51:21,833
Cameron's learning more 
about the story

1039
00:51:21,900 --> 00:51:24,033
from local guide Edda.

1040
00:51:24,100 --> 00:51:25,800
Cameron: Tell me, why is it 
in this town, why herring?

1041
00:51:25,866 --> 00:51:27,900
What's special about 
herring to this town?

1042
00:51:27,966 --> 00:51:30,733
Edda: So, the herring industry 
was, for the longest time,

1043
00:51:30,800 --> 00:51:32,966
one of the biggest industries 
in the country,

1044
00:51:33,033 --> 00:51:35,100
for the most part 
of the 20th century.

1045
00:51:35,166 --> 00:51:37,100
And for the longest time, 
this town had

1046
00:51:37,166 --> 00:51:38,700
the biggest herring port 
in Iceland.

1047
00:51:38,766 --> 00:51:41,766
And we often refer to this 
as the capital of the herring.

1048
00:51:41,833 --> 00:51:44,766
So, we are located in front 
of a salting station,

1049
00:51:44,833 --> 00:51:48,733
and from 1907 until 1968, 
herring was salted here.

1050
00:51:48,800 --> 00:51:51,666
We had the women, the herring 
girls, salting and packing

1051
00:51:51,733 --> 00:51:52,900
the herring into the barrels.

1052
00:51:52,966 --> 00:51:54,166
Cameron: And so, this, 
this table here

1053
00:51:54,233 --> 00:51:55,466
is exactly where that happened.

1054
00:51:55,533 --> 00:51:56,533
Edda: Yeah. 
So, this is what

1055
00:51:56,600 --> 00:51:57,733
we call the herring box.

1056
00:51:57,800 --> 00:51:59,800
And the fishermen 
coming into the fjord

1057
00:51:59,866 --> 00:52:02,400
would start by unloading 
the herring into those boxes,

1058
00:52:02,466 --> 00:52:05,633
and then they would call out 
the herring girls for work,

1059
00:52:05,700 --> 00:52:07,700
and they would take 
one herring at a time,

1060
00:52:07,766 --> 00:52:10,233
cutting the head off 
and pulling the guts out.

1061
00:52:10,300 --> 00:52:12,200
And then they would place 
the herring in here.

1062
00:52:12,266 --> 00:52:13,466
They would do this 
until they had

1063
00:52:13,533 --> 00:52:15,066
almost filled this container.

1064
00:52:15,133 --> 00:52:17,500
Then, in here, they would 
mix it with the salt

1065
00:52:17,566 --> 00:52:20,466
and then finally stack it 
into the barrels.

1066
00:52:20,533 --> 00:52:22,933
So, this is where the 
herring girls would live.

1067
00:52:23,000 --> 00:52:25,433
The women that would come from 
all the places in Iceland

1068
00:52:25,500 --> 00:52:28,266
just to work here at this 
particular salting station.

1069
00:52:28,333 --> 00:52:29,966
This would be an example 
of their bedrooms.

1070
00:52:30,033 --> 00:52:31,500
Cameron: OK. 
How many herring girls

1071
00:52:31,566 --> 00:52:33,000
would live in a room 
about this size?

1072
00:52:33,066 --> 00:52:35,133
Edda: So, there could be 
up to 50 women

1073
00:52:35,200 --> 00:52:37,000
living in all this, 
the whole building.

1074
00:52:37,066 --> 00:52:39,166
But at the busiest years, 
they would have to

1075
00:52:39,233 --> 00:52:40,733
share the beds, two to a bed.

1076
00:52:40,800 --> 00:52:42,366
So, there could be 
up to 12 women

1077
00:52:42,433 --> 00:52:45,200
living in a room this size.

1078
00:52:45,266 --> 00:52:46,600
Cameron: Tell me about 
their working hours.

1079
00:52:46,666 --> 00:52:47,866
Edda: When there was herring 
to be salted,

1080
00:52:47,933 --> 00:52:49,800
they need to be outside working.

1081
00:52:49,866 --> 00:52:51,366
And so, that meant 
that they could be

1082
00:52:51,433 --> 00:52:53,533
working very long shifts.

1083
00:52:53,600 --> 00:52:56,466
So, it could be 20-hour shifts,

1084
00:52:56,533 --> 00:52:58,333
and one herring girl 
we interviewed,

1085
00:52:58,400 --> 00:53:00,466
she said that her longer shift 
by the herring box

1086
00:53:00,533 --> 00:53:02,866
was 34 hours straight.

1087
00:53:02,933 --> 00:53:04,166
Rick, voice-over: 
It's inspiring to see

1088
00:53:04,233 --> 00:53:06,066
the thoughtful ways 
Iceland preserves

1089
00:53:06,133 --> 00:53:08,666
and celebrates 
its unique heritage.

1090
00:53:12,100 --> 00:53:14,500
Finishing the loop 
and leaving the coast behind,

1091
00:53:14,566 --> 00:53:16,400
the road swings to the south.

1092
00:53:16,466 --> 00:53:18,600
Along the way 
is another artifact

1093
00:53:18,666 --> 00:53:20,800
of this country's 
rugged history.

1094
00:53:20,866 --> 00:53:22,866
♪

1095
00:53:22,933 --> 00:53:24,833
In this land 
where trees are scarce,

1096
00:53:24,900 --> 00:53:27,133
houses were made out of sod.

1097
00:53:28,333 --> 00:53:31,366
Glaumbaer is a perfectly 
preserved turf house

1098
00:53:31,433 --> 00:53:32,833
dating back centuries.

1099
00:53:32,900 --> 00:53:35,600
♪

1100
00:53:35,666 --> 00:53:37,866
The grassy roof 
waves in the wind

1101
00:53:37,933 --> 00:53:40,700
as visitors admire the sturdy 
herringbone pattern

1102
00:53:40,766 --> 00:53:43,933
of the stacked-sod walls.

1103
00:53:44,000 --> 00:53:47,600
Inside, an earthen corridor 
connects several rooms.

1104
00:53:47,666 --> 00:53:50,166
Food was stored 
in wooden barrels.

1105
00:53:51,366 --> 00:53:54,966
In the kitchen, meals were 
cooked over a sheep dung fire.

1106
00:53:56,400 --> 00:53:58,900
The farmer's family had 
a spacious bedroom

1107
00:53:58,966 --> 00:54:00,266
all to themselves.

1108
00:54:01,766 --> 00:54:04,666
But the farmhands bunked 
in a communal living room.

1109
00:54:06,266 --> 00:54:09,533
Workers slept two to a bed, 
tucked in by a wooden panel

1110
00:54:09,600 --> 00:54:11,100
carved with prayers.

1111
00:54:12,266 --> 00:54:15,333
Women, who did the delicate 
spinning work, got the bunks

1112
00:54:15,400 --> 00:54:17,600
near the windows 
for the better light.

1113
00:54:19,133 --> 00:54:22,866
People still 
lived here until 1947.

1114
00:54:22,933 --> 00:54:26,600
Modern as Iceland is today, 
many grandparents remember

1115
00:54:26,666 --> 00:54:28,400
growing up in houses like these.

1116
00:54:28,466 --> 00:54:32,166
♪

1117
00:54:32,233 --> 00:54:35,333
As the Ring Road winds its way 
back toward Reykjavík,

1118
00:54:35,400 --> 00:54:37,900
there's time for 
one last scenic detour.

1119
00:54:37,966 --> 00:54:39,566
♪

1120
00:54:39,633 --> 00:54:42,066
A drive around 
the Snaefellsnes peninsula

1121
00:54:42,133 --> 00:54:46,066
offers a wrap-up of Iceland's 
dramatic natural wonders:

1122
00:54:46,133 --> 00:54:52,666
Iconic peaks, sheltered 
fjords, frisky horses,

1123
00:54:52,733 --> 00:54:57,300
glacier-topped mountains, 
swirling sea birds,

1124
00:54:57,366 --> 00:55:01,733
climbable craters, 
and abundant waterfalls.

1125
00:55:01,800 --> 00:55:05,633
♪

1126
00:55:05,700 --> 00:55:09,666
In short, it's a microcosm of 
all the unique forms of nature

1127
00:55:09,733 --> 00:55:11,466
that Iceland is famous for.

1128
00:55:12,433 --> 00:55:14,600
This encore 
of Icelandic splendor

1129
00:55:14,666 --> 00:55:17,166
caps one of Europe's 
great road trips.

1130
00:55:17,233 --> 00:55:19,500
♪

1131
00:55:19,566 --> 00:55:23,300
After 800 miles, the crew 
meets back up with me

1132
00:55:23,366 --> 00:55:26,100
where we started--in Reykjavík.

1133
00:55:29,933 --> 00:55:33,200
Rick: Iceland may be a small 
country with a small population.

1134
00:55:33,266 --> 00:55:35,666
Cameron: But it comes with 
a powerful sightseeing punch.

1135
00:55:35,733 --> 00:55:37,533
Rick: I'm Rick Steves. 
Cameron: And I'm Cameron Hewitt.

1136
00:55:37,600 --> 00:55:38,933
Rick: Thanks for joining us.

1137
00:55:39,000 --> 00:55:41,366
Until next time, 
keep on traveling!

1138
00:55:43,333 --> 00:55:45,333
Rick: Tell me a tongue twister 
in Icelandic.

1139
00:55:45,400 --> 00:55:48,433
Saga: Ah. [Speaking Icelandic]

1140
00:55:48,500 --> 00:55:50,266
Rick: What does that mean? 
Saga: It's a town.

1141
00:55:50,333 --> 00:55:51,900
You know, as more and more 
people discover

1142
00:55:51,966 --> 00:55:54,533
this beautiful place, 
it's really more important--

1143
00:55:54,600 --> 00:55:56,666
than--sorry, there's a fly 
right on my glasses.

1144
00:55:56,733 --> 00:55:59,533
He was literally--[Laughs]

1145
00:55:59,600 --> 00:56:02,066
You better not be rolling 
with this hat on.

1146
00:56:02,133 --> 00:56:03,933
[Man laughs] 
Man 2: [Indistinct]

1147
00:56:04,000 --> 00:56:05,133
Rick: There's a blooper.

1148
00:56:05,200 --> 00:56:14,833
♪

1149
00:56:16,200 --> 00:56:17,200
♪