1 00:00:00,700 --> 00:00:02,666 -Hi. I'm Rick Steves. 2 00:00:02,733 --> 00:00:04,600 And right now, I'm the one of the highest people in Germany, 3 00:00:04,666 --> 00:00:07,266 and there's lots more Alpine thrills to come. 4 00:00:07,333 --> 00:00:11,400 Thanks for joining me as we explore the best of the Alps. 5 00:00:11,466 --> 00:00:21,266 ♪♪ 6 00:00:21,333 --> 00:00:31,100 ♪♪ 7 00:00:31,166 --> 00:00:41,066 ♪♪ 8 00:00:43,200 --> 00:00:46,233 I love how, in Europe, nature and culture mix it up. 9 00:00:46,300 --> 00:00:49,366 And here in the Alps, each region has a distinct flavor. 10 00:00:49,433 --> 00:00:53,033 In this special, we'll celebrate both nature and culture 11 00:00:53,100 --> 00:00:54,766 all across the Alps. 12 00:00:54,833 --> 00:00:56,833 In this greatest hits' look at Europe's Alps, 13 00:00:56,900 --> 00:00:58,733 we'll travel through five different countries, 14 00:00:58,800 --> 00:01:01,400 each with its own unique alpine culture. 15 00:01:01,466 --> 00:01:04,100 [ Folk music playing ] 16 00:01:04,166 --> 00:01:07,366 Along the way, we'll see some of Europe's most iconic mountains, 17 00:01:07,433 --> 00:01:10,000 including the Matterhorn 18 00:01:10,066 --> 00:01:13,633 and Mont Blanc, the continent's highest point. 19 00:01:13,700 --> 00:01:18,300 And we'll conquer many of these peaks, whether by foot, 20 00:01:18,366 --> 00:01:21,600 by train, or a multitude of lifts, 21 00:01:21,666 --> 00:01:24,533 enjoying plenty of thin-air thrills. 22 00:01:24,600 --> 00:01:26,866 ♪♪ 23 00:01:26,933 --> 00:01:30,266 We'll explore charming alpine towns filling romantic valleys 24 00:01:30,333 --> 00:01:33,166 and hike to cliffhanging villages. 25 00:01:33,233 --> 00:01:36,400 And we'll savor hearty and rustic Alpine cuisine, 26 00:01:36,466 --> 00:01:41,100 edible traditions particularly tasty at this altitude. 27 00:01:41,166 --> 00:01:44,366 And finally, we'll hike, from easy day trips 28 00:01:44,433 --> 00:01:48,300 to a guided, classic, long-distance tour. 29 00:01:48,366 --> 00:01:50,600 The Alps stretch across Europe from Vienna 30 00:01:50,666 --> 00:01:53,300 to the French Riviera, spanning many countries, 31 00:01:53,366 --> 00:01:55,933 and we'll scale peaks in five of them -- 32 00:01:56,000 --> 00:02:00,566 Germany, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, and France. 33 00:02:00,633 --> 00:02:03,666 We start with Germany, Austria, and Italy. 34 00:02:03,733 --> 00:02:07,333 Our first summit is in Bavaria, high atop the Zugspitze. 35 00:02:07,400 --> 00:02:09,933 From there, we travel south into the Tirol, 36 00:02:10,000 --> 00:02:12,166 that historic region which today is split 37 00:02:12,233 --> 00:02:14,233 between Austria and Italy. 38 00:02:14,300 --> 00:02:16,433 We visit Innsbruck and its high country 39 00:02:16,500 --> 00:02:19,400 before crossing Brenner Pass into Italy. 40 00:02:19,466 --> 00:02:24,700 From Kastelruth, we explore the Dolomites. 41 00:02:24,766 --> 00:02:26,600 Across the Alps, mountain resorts 42 00:02:26,666 --> 00:02:28,566 are investing in their infrastructure. 43 00:02:28,633 --> 00:02:31,233 And here in Bavaria, they've made it quick and easy 44 00:02:31,300 --> 00:02:33,900 to experience their mightiest peak. 45 00:02:33,966 --> 00:02:35,700 ♪♪ 46 00:02:35,766 --> 00:02:38,566 The Zugspitze, at nearly 10,000 feet, 47 00:02:38,633 --> 00:02:41,100 is Germany's highest mountain. 48 00:02:41,166 --> 00:02:44,933 And this cable car zips us to the top in 10 minutes. 49 00:02:45,000 --> 00:02:47,500 The cable is about 3 miles long. 50 00:02:47,566 --> 00:02:50,100 It's supported by only one pylon. 51 00:02:50,166 --> 00:02:52,366 And it stretches nearly two miles to the summit 52 00:02:52,433 --> 00:02:54,333 with no support at all. 53 00:02:54,400 --> 00:03:01,566 ♪♪ 54 00:03:01,633 --> 00:03:03,633 While there are many higher mountains in the Alps, 55 00:03:03,700 --> 00:03:05,700 the Zugspitze is unique. 56 00:03:05,766 --> 00:03:09,233 It stands alone, offering a view of hundreds of peaks in Germany, 57 00:03:09,300 --> 00:03:12,300 Austria, Italy, and even Switzerland. 58 00:03:12,366 --> 00:03:16,033 The mountain marks the border between Germany and Austria. 59 00:03:16,100 --> 00:03:18,133 ♪♪ 60 00:03:18,200 --> 00:03:21,433 From here, the Alps arc like a grand Alpine symphony, 61 00:03:21,500 --> 00:03:23,300 from Vienna way in the east 62 00:03:23,366 --> 00:03:24,933 all the way to the French Riviera, 63 00:03:25,000 --> 00:03:28,966 where these mountains finally plunge into the Mediterranean. 64 00:03:29,033 --> 00:03:31,900 The Zugspitze summit attracts huge crowds. 65 00:03:31,966 --> 00:03:34,100 As on so many European mountaintops, 66 00:03:34,166 --> 00:03:38,533 you'll find restaurants, shops, and well-entertained tourists. 67 00:03:38,600 --> 00:03:42,233 The Zugspitze is famed for a cold and ghostly wind 68 00:03:42,300 --> 00:03:44,566 that can really howl in the winter. 69 00:03:44,633 --> 00:03:46,333 This hikers' hut has been perched here 70 00:03:46,400 --> 00:03:48,766 for well over a century. 71 00:03:48,833 --> 00:03:50,966 And thanks to these beefy cables, 72 00:03:51,033 --> 00:03:54,633 it's never been blown off the top. 73 00:03:54,700 --> 00:03:57,233 The summit, first climbed in 1820, 74 00:03:57,300 --> 00:03:59,200 is marked by a golden cross, 75 00:03:59,266 --> 00:04:02,933 carried up here by hardy villagers back in 1851. 76 00:04:03,000 --> 00:04:05,500 Today, with the help of iron steps and cables, 77 00:04:05,566 --> 00:04:08,100 it's climbed, either from the distant valley floor 78 00:04:08,166 --> 00:04:10,300 or from the adjacent summit restaurant, 79 00:04:10,366 --> 00:04:15,133 by families, seniors, and even travel writers. 80 00:04:18,233 --> 00:04:21,500 These days, escaping the tourist crowds takes initiative -- 81 00:04:21,566 --> 00:04:24,266 and having a car can be helpful. 82 00:04:24,333 --> 00:04:27,700 We've crossed into Austria and are ready to explore. 83 00:04:27,766 --> 00:04:31,800 Detailed maps show tiny roads you might not realize exist. 84 00:04:31,866 --> 00:04:34,866 For a car-hiker's look at life high in the Alps, 85 00:04:34,933 --> 00:04:39,933 we're switchbacking up to a 5,000-foot-high perch. 86 00:04:40,000 --> 00:04:42,933 From the end of the road, it's an easy 20-minute stroll 87 00:04:43,000 --> 00:04:44,800 to the Walderalm farm. 88 00:04:44,866 --> 00:04:46,800 ♪♪ 89 00:04:46,866 --> 00:04:50,100 It's actually a cluster of three family-run dairy farms -- 90 00:04:50,166 --> 00:04:52,800 with 70 cows -- sharing their meadow 91 00:04:52,866 --> 00:04:56,000 amid staggering mountain views. 92 00:04:56,066 --> 00:04:58,933 These families have eked out a living on these farms 93 00:04:59,000 --> 00:05:03,800 with remarkably little change for generations. 94 00:05:03,866 --> 00:05:05,866 Hans, while well into his 80s now, 95 00:05:05,933 --> 00:05:08,433 is still involved in the family farm. 96 00:05:08,500 --> 00:05:12,266 Today, it's so hot, the cows are hanging out in the barn. 97 00:05:12,333 --> 00:05:15,500 But there's still work to be done. 98 00:05:15,566 --> 00:05:17,266 And with the chores finished, 99 00:05:17,333 --> 00:05:20,400 Hans enjoys whittling in his spare time. 100 00:05:20,466 --> 00:05:21,833 His favorite subject? 101 00:05:21,900 --> 00:05:23,500 Cows, of course. 102 00:05:23,566 --> 00:05:25,233 [ Cattle lowing ] 103 00:05:25,300 --> 00:05:28,666 ♪♪ 104 00:05:28,733 --> 00:05:32,266 The traditional Alpine farmhouse was energy efficient, 105 00:05:32,333 --> 00:05:34,400 considering the technology of the day. 106 00:05:34,466 --> 00:05:36,666 The family lived here on the middle floor. 107 00:05:36,733 --> 00:05:38,166 The cows got the ground floor. 108 00:05:38,233 --> 00:05:40,366 There's about 40 cows just down there. 109 00:05:40,433 --> 00:05:42,100 They'd catch the body heat of the cows, 110 00:05:42,166 --> 00:05:44,000 and that would help to heat the family. 111 00:05:44,066 --> 00:05:46,433 And the hay loft provided insulation 112 00:05:46,500 --> 00:05:48,333 and the assurance there'd be enough food 113 00:05:48,400 --> 00:05:50,100 to get the cows through the winter. 114 00:05:50,166 --> 00:05:53,333 And on this farm, the system works to this day. 115 00:05:53,400 --> 00:05:56,600 These days, family farms struggle to survive. 116 00:05:56,666 --> 00:05:58,266 Here in Europe, many manage only 117 00:05:58,333 --> 00:06:00,266 with the help of government subsidies 118 00:06:00,333 --> 00:06:03,333 and by tapping into the tourist trade. 119 00:06:03,400 --> 00:06:06,066 A steady stream of hikers and bikers work hard 120 00:06:06,133 --> 00:06:10,000 to reach this idyllic spot. 121 00:06:10,066 --> 00:06:11,933 And Hans and his family are happy 122 00:06:12,000 --> 00:06:15,333 to serve a hearty lunch or a refreshing drink. 123 00:06:15,400 --> 00:06:19,500 ♪♪ 124 00:06:19,566 --> 00:06:22,600 From up here, it's all downhill to Innsbruck. 125 00:06:22,666 --> 00:06:23,866 Filling the valley floor, 126 00:06:23,933 --> 00:06:27,166 it's one of the biggest cities within the Alps. 127 00:06:27,233 --> 00:06:31,166 Innsbruck was an important outpost of the Habsburg Empire. 128 00:06:31,233 --> 00:06:34,633 For five centuries, it was their capital of the Tirol, 129 00:06:34,700 --> 00:06:37,900 with all the imperial trappings -- 130 00:06:37,966 --> 00:06:40,200 a grand church, 131 00:06:40,266 --> 00:06:43,133 a stately palace, 132 00:06:43,200 --> 00:06:47,466 and an extravagant balcony fit for a king. 133 00:06:47,533 --> 00:06:49,933 This much-admired Golden Roof was built 134 00:06:50,000 --> 00:06:54,066 for the Habsburg Emperor Maximilian in 1494. 135 00:06:54,133 --> 00:06:57,266 The roof, with over 2,000 gilded copper tiles, 136 00:06:57,333 --> 00:07:00,100 remains the town's centerpiece. 137 00:07:00,166 --> 00:07:03,800 Innsbruck's historic center is now a pedestrian zone. 138 00:07:03,866 --> 00:07:05,266 Looking past the crowds, 139 00:07:05,333 --> 00:07:10,633 it still feels like a once-grand provincial capital. 140 00:07:10,700 --> 00:07:15,733 The city's folk museum is a medieval Tirolean home show. 141 00:07:15,800 --> 00:07:18,866 Humble as that rural farming community may have been, 142 00:07:18,933 --> 00:07:22,033 an artistic touch prevails. 143 00:07:22,100 --> 00:07:25,566 The plow seems to honor hard work. 144 00:07:25,633 --> 00:07:28,933 One-legged milking stools were finely carved. 145 00:07:30,833 --> 00:07:32,966 Cribs were decorated with religious themes 146 00:07:33,033 --> 00:07:35,300 to be sure God watched over the baby. 147 00:07:35,366 --> 00:07:38,233 ♪♪ 148 00:07:38,300 --> 00:07:41,133 Fantastical characters warded off evil 149 00:07:41,200 --> 00:07:44,433 and even served as human scarecrows. 150 00:07:44,500 --> 00:07:46,733 Merchants carrying their wares on their backs 151 00:07:46,800 --> 00:07:49,533 would hike from village to village. 152 00:07:49,600 --> 00:07:52,366 This one sold fine fabric. 153 00:07:52,433 --> 00:07:55,033 Intricately whittled dioramas show off 154 00:07:55,100 --> 00:07:58,066 the region's tradition of fine woodcarving. 155 00:07:58,133 --> 00:08:00,500 While this could be any Tirolean village, 156 00:08:00,566 --> 00:08:04,966 upon closer look, it's Bethlehem in the Alps. 157 00:08:05,033 --> 00:08:07,166 Bible stories like this Nativity scene 158 00:08:07,233 --> 00:08:08,666 made most sense to locals 159 00:08:08,733 --> 00:08:12,400 when presented in a familiar hometown setting. 160 00:08:12,466 --> 00:08:15,500 Today, this manger scene gives you a glimpse of village life 161 00:08:15,566 --> 00:08:18,133 in the Tirol a couple centuries ago. 162 00:08:24,333 --> 00:08:26,300 Heading south, we cross Europe's cultural 163 00:08:26,366 --> 00:08:27,800 and geographical divide, 164 00:08:27,866 --> 00:08:30,533 driving from the Germanic world, over the Alps, 165 00:08:30,600 --> 00:08:33,900 into the Mediterranean world -- Italy. 166 00:08:33,966 --> 00:08:36,533 The Brenner Pass has been the easiest way over the Alps 167 00:08:36,600 --> 00:08:38,433 since ancient Roman times. 168 00:08:38,500 --> 00:08:39,800 2,000 years ago, 169 00:08:39,866 --> 00:08:42,800 Roman legions followed this route, the Via Claudia, 170 00:08:42,866 --> 00:08:46,800 as they marched north to conquer much of Europe. 171 00:08:46,866 --> 00:08:50,166 Sections of the ancient road are still preserved. 172 00:08:50,233 --> 00:08:53,100 Deep grooves are reminders of countless wagon wheels 173 00:08:53,166 --> 00:08:56,600 that followed this very route. 174 00:08:56,666 --> 00:08:58,400 Today, the Brenner Pass is easier 175 00:08:58,466 --> 00:09:00,866 than ever to cross as drivers arc gracefully 176 00:09:00,933 --> 00:09:04,066 along one of the engineering wonders of Europe. 177 00:09:04,133 --> 00:09:05,966 From the top of the Europabrucke, 178 00:09:06,033 --> 00:09:07,333 or Europe's Bridge, 179 00:09:07,400 --> 00:09:09,800 it feels like just another freeway, 180 00:09:09,866 --> 00:09:12,433 but from the windy old road at the valley floor, 181 00:09:12,500 --> 00:09:14,833 it looks like a mighty sculpture. 182 00:09:14,900 --> 00:09:16,933 The freeway zips drivers from Innsbruck 183 00:09:17,000 --> 00:09:20,266 to the Italian border in about 30 minutes. 184 00:09:20,333 --> 00:09:22,833 How about pasta for lunch? 185 00:09:22,900 --> 00:09:25,866 While the Autobahn in Germany and Austria is toll-free, 186 00:09:25,933 --> 00:09:29,433 the Italian Autostrada has plenty of toll booths. 187 00:09:29,500 --> 00:09:31,133 But that's nothing new here. 188 00:09:31,200 --> 00:09:34,233 This crossing has long been a gauntlet of toll booths 189 00:09:34,300 --> 00:09:36,100 and forts. 190 00:09:36,166 --> 00:09:38,733 Empires, from Roman times to World War II, 191 00:09:38,800 --> 00:09:42,533 understood the strategic value of Brenner Pass. 192 00:09:42,600 --> 00:09:44,566 This fortress, called Franzensfeste, 193 00:09:44,633 --> 00:09:47,566 was built in the 1830s. 194 00:09:47,633 --> 00:09:50,333 It was one of the mightiest of its day. 195 00:09:50,400 --> 00:09:53,400 A huge investment by the Habsburg emperor in Vienna, 196 00:09:53,466 --> 00:09:55,566 it was designed to protect his empire 197 00:09:55,633 --> 00:09:57,666 from invasions from the south. 198 00:10:00,500 --> 00:10:03,166 We're following a trade route dating back to the Middle Ages 199 00:10:03,233 --> 00:10:04,833 that connected the Germanic world 200 00:10:04,900 --> 00:10:07,866 with cities like Venice and Florence. 201 00:10:07,933 --> 00:10:10,466 Medieval traders were stopped and forced to pay a toll 202 00:10:10,533 --> 00:10:12,700 by the lords of castles like these, 203 00:10:12,766 --> 00:10:16,600 strategically situated in pairs on either side of this valley. 204 00:10:16,666 --> 00:10:19,333 But we zoom by toll-free. 205 00:10:19,400 --> 00:10:22,133 And before we know it, the roads get narrow and windy, 206 00:10:22,200 --> 00:10:26,133 and we're entering Italy's dramatic limestone rooftop. 207 00:10:26,200 --> 00:10:29,500 The Dolomites, with their distinct and jagged peaks, 208 00:10:29,566 --> 00:10:33,400 offer some of the best Alpine thrills in Europe. 209 00:10:33,466 --> 00:10:34,933 And these mighty mountains 210 00:10:35,000 --> 00:10:37,000 seem to protect the traditional culture 211 00:10:37,066 --> 00:10:40,700 in the region's villages and bucolic farmsteads. 212 00:10:40,766 --> 00:10:44,233 Historically, the Tirol was its own state. 213 00:10:44,300 --> 00:10:47,400 Today, that region is divided -- part in Austria 214 00:10:47,466 --> 00:10:49,366 and part in Italy. 215 00:10:49,433 --> 00:10:53,166 The Italian part is called South Tirol. 216 00:10:53,233 --> 00:10:55,433 The region is a mix of the two cultures 217 00:10:55,500 --> 00:10:57,466 and officially bilingual. 218 00:10:57,533 --> 00:10:59,700 While the traditional economy is farming, 219 00:10:59,766 --> 00:11:02,033 today tourism is also big -- 220 00:11:02,100 --> 00:11:04,100 skiing in winter, 221 00:11:04,166 --> 00:11:05,766 hiking in summer. 222 00:11:05,833 --> 00:11:08,933 ♪♪ 223 00:11:09,000 --> 00:11:11,500 The Great Dolomite Road, beautifully engineered, 224 00:11:11,566 --> 00:11:15,566 leads to the nearly 7,000-foot-high Sela Pass. 225 00:11:15,633 --> 00:11:19,000 ♪♪ 226 00:11:19,066 --> 00:11:20,766 It's great for a joy ride, 227 00:11:20,833 --> 00:11:23,633 and famously a big challenge for bikers. 228 00:11:25,400 --> 00:11:28,133 Making it to the summit is always a good excuse 229 00:11:28,200 --> 00:11:30,066 for a triumphant group photo. 230 00:11:30,133 --> 00:11:32,000 -[ Speaks foreign language ] 231 00:11:32,066 --> 00:11:36,200 -These bold limestone pillars offer something for everybody. 232 00:11:36,266 --> 00:11:38,500 This is rock-climbing country -- 233 00:11:38,566 --> 00:11:42,033 thrilling, even for spectators. 234 00:11:42,100 --> 00:11:44,766 ♪♪ 235 00:11:44,833 --> 00:11:49,000 From the town of Ortisei, we're catching the Seceda lift. 236 00:11:49,066 --> 00:11:52,900 All over this region, the lifts do the climbing fast and easy, 237 00:11:52,966 --> 00:11:56,633 depositing hikers sweat-free at thin-air trail heads. 238 00:11:56,700 --> 00:11:59,533 I love walking on a ridge. 239 00:11:59,600 --> 00:12:02,266 And with as many nationalities enjoying this scene 240 00:12:02,333 --> 00:12:04,466 as there are flowers in the fields, 241 00:12:04,533 --> 00:12:08,366 the blissful world up here is one of pristine nature 242 00:12:08,433 --> 00:12:11,600 and happy hikers. 243 00:12:11,666 --> 00:12:15,200 These slopes are busy with skiers in the winter. 244 00:12:15,266 --> 00:12:18,666 When planning, be aware that in early spring and late fall -- 245 00:12:18,733 --> 00:12:21,300 that's between seasons here in the Dolomites -- 246 00:12:21,366 --> 00:12:24,600 many lifts, huts, and restaurants are shut down, 247 00:12:24,666 --> 00:12:28,133 and trails can be covered in snow. 248 00:12:28,200 --> 00:12:32,566 We're here in summer, and everything's wide open. 249 00:12:32,633 --> 00:12:35,566 Everywhere I look feels like an Alpine adventure 250 00:12:35,633 --> 00:12:37,333 awaiting my arrival. 251 00:12:37,400 --> 00:12:43,600 ♪♪ 252 00:12:46,200 --> 00:12:47,866 One thing I love about Europe -- 253 00:12:47,933 --> 00:12:49,533 I've been coming here all my life, 254 00:12:49,600 --> 00:12:52,600 and there's still places to discover. 255 00:12:52,666 --> 00:12:55,733 The town of Kastelruth feels like an Alpine village 256 00:12:55,800 --> 00:12:57,866 rather than a ski resort. 257 00:12:57,933 --> 00:13:00,100 That's why I feature it in my Italy guidebook 258 00:13:00,166 --> 00:13:03,766 as the ideal home base for exploring the Dolomites. 259 00:13:03,833 --> 00:13:07,600 [ Bells tolling ] 260 00:13:07,666 --> 00:13:10,900 The hyperactive bell tower seems to ring out the wisdom 261 00:13:10,966 --> 00:13:13,833 of honoring local traditions. 262 00:13:13,900 --> 00:13:15,466 Buildings are painted with murals 263 00:13:15,533 --> 00:13:17,566 celebrating the town's rich heritage. 264 00:13:17,633 --> 00:13:22,666 ♪♪ 265 00:13:22,733 --> 00:13:25,833 Clearly, fire has long been a concern. 266 00:13:25,900 --> 00:13:28,166 Saint Florian, the patron of firefighters, 267 00:13:28,233 --> 00:13:31,633 is shown all over town, putting out fires. 268 00:13:33,800 --> 00:13:37,266 The town cemetery is like a lovingly tended garden. 269 00:13:37,333 --> 00:13:39,966 Entire families share a common plot. 270 00:13:40,033 --> 00:13:43,966 ♪♪ 271 00:13:44,033 --> 00:13:46,466 Cobbled lanes lead past friendly shops 272 00:13:46,533 --> 00:13:48,666 to the welcoming town square. 273 00:13:48,733 --> 00:13:51,400 And for generations, the fountain, 274 00:13:51,466 --> 00:13:52,766 with its metal cup, 275 00:13:52,833 --> 00:13:56,733 has invited all for a refreshing drink. 276 00:13:56,800 --> 00:13:58,800 The fountain also watered horses, 277 00:13:58,866 --> 00:14:01,300 back when coaching inns lined the square. 278 00:14:01,366 --> 00:14:05,066 ♪♪ 279 00:14:05,133 --> 00:14:06,800 Here in the region of South Tirol, 280 00:14:06,866 --> 00:14:08,166 even though we're in Italy, 281 00:14:08,233 --> 00:14:11,900 locals speak German first and Italian second. 282 00:14:11,966 --> 00:14:13,766 That's because, for centuries, it was 283 00:14:13,833 --> 00:14:18,500 in the Austrian Habsburg realm, ruled from Vienna. 284 00:14:18,566 --> 00:14:22,700 After World War I, South Tirol ended up as part of Italy. 285 00:14:22,766 --> 00:14:25,766 Mussolini did what he could to Italianize the region. 286 00:14:25,833 --> 00:14:28,633 He even gave each city a new Italian name. 287 00:14:28,700 --> 00:14:31,966 This town, Kastelruth, became Castelrotto. 288 00:14:32,033 --> 00:14:34,766 But the region's Germanic heritage endures. 289 00:14:34,833 --> 00:14:36,566 You can see it in its prosperity 290 00:14:36,633 --> 00:14:39,033 and in its lively folk culture. 291 00:14:39,100 --> 00:14:41,433 [ Folk music playing ] 292 00:14:41,500 --> 00:14:45,100 Amateur folk bands have fun keeping that heritage alive. 293 00:14:45,166 --> 00:14:48,300 The instruments are traditional, as are the costumes. 294 00:14:48,366 --> 00:14:51,000 The blue aprons come from a time when humble workers 295 00:14:51,066 --> 00:14:53,466 needed to protect their precious clothing. 296 00:14:53,533 --> 00:14:56,066 ♪♪ 297 00:14:56,133 --> 00:14:57,300 -[ Singing in foreign language ] 298 00:14:57,366 --> 00:14:58,900 -It's nice to think that these boys 299 00:14:58,966 --> 00:15:01,233 are both modern and traditional, 300 00:15:01,300 --> 00:15:02,900 and their traditions are clearly 301 00:15:02,966 --> 00:15:05,000 surviving into the next generation. 302 00:15:05,066 --> 00:15:07,300 -[ Singing in foreign language ] 303 00:15:07,366 --> 00:15:08,800 -Whoo! 304 00:15:08,866 --> 00:15:11,100 [ All continue singing ] 305 00:15:11,166 --> 00:15:20,900 ♪♪ 306 00:15:20,966 --> 00:15:27,900 ♪♪ 307 00:15:27,966 --> 00:15:30,066 [ People cheering ] 308 00:15:30,133 --> 00:15:38,166 ♪♪ 309 00:15:38,233 --> 00:15:42,766 ♪♪ 310 00:15:42,833 --> 00:15:43,766 -[ Whistles ] 311 00:15:43,833 --> 00:15:49,433 ♪♪ 312 00:15:49,500 --> 00:15:50,833 [ Song ends ] 313 00:15:50,900 --> 00:15:53,533 [ Cheers and applause ] 314 00:15:57,733 --> 00:16:01,433 -Kastelruth is the gateway to Europe's largest Alpine meadow, 315 00:16:01,500 --> 00:16:04,700 the Alpe di Siusi. 316 00:16:04,766 --> 00:16:07,433 As automobiles are generally not allowed, 317 00:16:07,500 --> 00:16:09,733 visitors approach by cable car. 318 00:16:09,800 --> 00:16:12,733 Landing at Compatsch, the commercial hub of the meadow, 319 00:16:12,800 --> 00:16:14,966 hikers can hop a lift or a shuttle bus 320 00:16:15,033 --> 00:16:17,933 to the trail head of their choice. 321 00:16:18,000 --> 00:16:20,100 The Alpe di Siusi is a natural preserve 322 00:16:20,166 --> 00:16:22,200 at the foot of the mighty Sassolungo 323 00:16:22,266 --> 00:16:24,433 and Sasso Piatto peaks. 324 00:16:24,500 --> 00:16:27,233 The meadow is 3 miles wide by 7 miles long, 325 00:16:27,300 --> 00:16:31,233 and seems to float at 6,000 feet above sea level. 326 00:16:31,300 --> 00:16:33,866 It's dotted by farm huts and wildflowers, 327 00:16:33,933 --> 00:16:37,200 surrounded by dramatic Dolomite peaks 328 00:16:37,266 --> 00:16:39,533 and crisscrossed by meadow trails -- 329 00:16:39,600 --> 00:16:44,066 ideal for equestrians, flower lovers, and walkers. 330 00:16:44,133 --> 00:16:47,300 It's also just right for someone needing a lazy beer 331 00:16:47,366 --> 00:16:50,300 with a spectacular view. 332 00:16:50,366 --> 00:16:53,200 And completing this storybook Dolomite setting, 333 00:16:53,266 --> 00:16:57,100 the spooky Mount Schlern, home of mythical witches, 334 00:16:57,166 --> 00:17:00,933 looks boldly into the haze of the Italian peninsula. 335 00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:09,133 ♪♪ 336 00:17:09,200 --> 00:17:11,000 -As we continue our Alpine adventure, 337 00:17:11,066 --> 00:17:12,733 we go from the dramatic Schlern 338 00:17:12,800 --> 00:17:15,466 to perhaps the most iconic peak in all the Alps, 339 00:17:15,533 --> 00:17:18,566 the Matterhorn, in Switzerland. 340 00:17:18,633 --> 00:17:22,233 Switzerland is small -- just half the size of Kentucky. 341 00:17:22,300 --> 00:17:25,233 Most of the country is rural and mountainous. 342 00:17:25,300 --> 00:17:27,800 We start in Zermatt, at the Matterhorn, 343 00:17:27,866 --> 00:17:29,733 take the Glacier Express train ride, 344 00:17:29,800 --> 00:17:33,466 drop in on Appenzell, and finish in the Berner Oberland, 345 00:17:33,533 --> 00:17:37,600 riding lifts to the Jungfrau and the Schilthorn. 346 00:17:37,666 --> 00:17:39,500 Zermatt, at the foot of the Matterhorn, 347 00:17:39,566 --> 00:17:42,533 was essentially built for enjoying the Alps. 348 00:17:42,600 --> 00:17:45,066 It's hugely popular with skiers in the winter 349 00:17:45,133 --> 00:17:46,833 and hikers in the summer. 350 00:17:46,900 --> 00:17:50,266 With its many lifts, it's a springboard for countless trails 351 00:17:50,333 --> 00:17:52,500 and unforgettable viewpoints. 352 00:17:53,900 --> 00:17:56,000 The weather's great, and we're hopping a train 353 00:17:56,066 --> 00:17:59,433 to one of the most dramatic views in all the Alps. 354 00:17:59,500 --> 00:18:02,533 The Gornergrat cogwheel train has been wowing visitors 355 00:18:02,600 --> 00:18:05,500 since 1898. 356 00:18:05,566 --> 00:18:07,466 The trip comes with sweeping views, 357 00:18:07,533 --> 00:18:10,400 first of the town of Zermatt... 358 00:18:10,466 --> 00:18:14,500 then of the iconic peak that draws so many to this region -- 359 00:18:14,566 --> 00:18:16,400 the Matterhorn. 360 00:18:16,466 --> 00:18:19,200 The train climbs steeply into the high country. 361 00:18:19,266 --> 00:18:21,500 It takes us to over 10,000 feet, 362 00:18:21,566 --> 00:18:24,200 where we reach the end of the line. 363 00:18:24,266 --> 00:18:25,900 Across the tracks, an old hotel 364 00:18:25,966 --> 00:18:29,033 solidly caps the Gornergrat ridge. 365 00:18:29,100 --> 00:18:33,500 Grand views stretch in every direction. 366 00:18:33,566 --> 00:18:37,033 Stunning Matterhorn views demand the attention of hikers, 367 00:18:37,100 --> 00:18:38,366 but there's more. 368 00:18:38,433 --> 00:18:41,300 Monte Rosa is actually higher than the Matterhorn. 369 00:18:41,366 --> 00:18:44,166 In fact, at 15,200 feet, 370 00:18:44,233 --> 00:18:47,966 it's the highest point in Switzerland. 371 00:18:48,033 --> 00:18:50,966 And a 1,000-foot sheer drop below the platform 372 00:18:51,033 --> 00:18:54,933 stretches the mighty Gorner Glacier. 373 00:18:55,033 --> 00:18:57,100 It seems many of my favorite hikes 374 00:18:57,166 --> 00:19:01,166 start partway down my favorite lifts or train rides. 375 00:19:01,233 --> 00:19:03,133 Hopping off this train about midway, 376 00:19:03,200 --> 00:19:07,400 I'm in for a sensational yet easy hike. 377 00:19:07,466 --> 00:19:09,933 Getting to these exciting spots with so little work 378 00:19:10,000 --> 00:19:13,500 and so far from the crowds, I feel like I'm cheating... 379 00:19:13,566 --> 00:19:16,000 and I love it. 380 00:19:16,066 --> 00:19:20,700 ♪♪ 381 00:19:20,766 --> 00:19:22,866 There's just something about the Matterhorn, 382 00:19:22,933 --> 00:19:25,300 the most recognizable mountain on the planet, 383 00:19:25,366 --> 00:19:27,000 that attracts people. 384 00:19:27,066 --> 00:19:29,600 It's a dangerous mountain to climb. 385 00:19:29,666 --> 00:19:32,533 Each year, while several thousand make it to the summit, 386 00:19:32,600 --> 00:19:34,933 about a dozen die trying. 387 00:19:35,000 --> 00:19:36,400 And with global warming, 388 00:19:36,466 --> 00:19:39,633 the permafrost that keeps it solid is thawing, 389 00:19:39,700 --> 00:19:44,133 making falling rocks a new hazard. 390 00:19:44,200 --> 00:19:45,466 Surrounding Zermatt, 391 00:19:45,533 --> 00:19:48,900 as if to enjoy views of the Matterhorn from every angle, 392 00:19:48,966 --> 00:19:52,966 are dozens of lifts and hundreds of miles of trails. 393 00:19:54,833 --> 00:19:57,133 As is the case throughout the Alps, 394 00:19:57,200 --> 00:20:00,100 handy signposts make it clear where you are, 395 00:20:00,166 --> 00:20:01,366 what's the altitude, 396 00:20:01,433 --> 00:20:04,733 and how long it takes to hike to various points. 397 00:20:04,800 --> 00:20:11,066 ♪♪ 398 00:20:11,133 --> 00:20:13,333 Zermatt, straddling its tiny river, 399 00:20:13,400 --> 00:20:17,666 is a small town of 6,000 with a big tourist industry. 400 00:20:17,733 --> 00:20:19,966 It has more hotel beds than residents -- 401 00:20:20,033 --> 00:20:24,266 and they're often completely full. 402 00:20:24,333 --> 00:20:26,966 Nearly everyone earns a living one way or another 403 00:20:27,033 --> 00:20:31,300 from tourists, who flock here for a peek at the peak. 404 00:20:33,033 --> 00:20:36,166 About two million visitors a year arrive by train. 405 00:20:36,233 --> 00:20:38,000 Cars are not allowed. 406 00:20:38,066 --> 00:20:42,200 Electric carts weave quietly through the pedestrians. 407 00:20:42,266 --> 00:20:43,666 The town is a collection 408 00:20:43,733 --> 00:20:46,166 of over 100 modern, chalet-style hotels, 409 00:20:46,233 --> 00:20:49,066 with a well-organized and groomed infrastructure 410 00:20:49,133 --> 00:20:52,766 for summer and winter sports. 411 00:20:52,833 --> 00:20:56,300 And this crowd-pleasing herd of traditional blackneck goats, 412 00:20:56,366 --> 00:20:58,333 which parades through the town every day, 413 00:20:58,400 --> 00:21:02,166 has had it with selfies and is headin' for the barn. 414 00:21:02,233 --> 00:21:04,400 [ Bells ringing, goat bleats ] 415 00:21:04,466 --> 00:21:05,633 If you explore a bit, 416 00:21:05,700 --> 00:21:08,900 you can discover pockets of traditional charm. 417 00:21:11,833 --> 00:21:15,633 200 years ago, Zermatt would have looked more like this -- 418 00:21:15,700 --> 00:21:19,566 little more than a gathering of humble log cabins. 419 00:21:23,200 --> 00:21:25,866 Zermatt works hard to keep its visitors entertained, 420 00:21:25,933 --> 00:21:30,800 and tradition-loving locals seem delighted to do just that. 421 00:21:30,866 --> 00:21:32,866 [ Group singing in native language ] 422 00:21:32,933 --> 00:21:42,766 ♪♪ 423 00:21:42,833 --> 00:21:52,600 ♪♪ 424 00:21:52,666 --> 00:21:54,600 -[ Yodeling ] 425 00:21:54,666 --> 00:22:02,433 ♪♪ 426 00:22:02,500 --> 00:22:10,300 ♪♪ 427 00:22:10,366 --> 00:22:18,166 ♪♪ 428 00:22:18,233 --> 00:22:26,033 ♪♪ 429 00:22:26,100 --> 00:22:28,366 [ Cheers and applause ] 430 00:22:33,466 --> 00:22:35,766 -From the town of Zermatt, a mighty cable car 431 00:22:35,833 --> 00:22:36,833 takes us to the summit 432 00:22:36,900 --> 00:22:39,666 of a peak called the "Little Matterhorn". 433 00:22:39,733 --> 00:22:41,166 Prices are steep, 434 00:22:41,233 --> 00:22:44,266 as the community has invested hundreds of millions of dollars 435 00:22:44,333 --> 00:22:47,100 in their mountain lifts in recent years. 436 00:22:48,833 --> 00:22:51,800 These lifts are absolutely state-of-the-art, 437 00:22:51,866 --> 00:22:56,100 and just experiencing them is worth the splurge. 438 00:22:56,166 --> 00:22:58,000 At 12,700 feet, 439 00:22:58,066 --> 00:23:02,366 this is the highest cable-car station in Europe. 440 00:23:02,433 --> 00:23:04,366 While the view of the Matterhorn from this angle 441 00:23:04,433 --> 00:23:06,900 is not the iconic postcard profile, 442 00:23:06,966 --> 00:23:11,633 the views from this observation deck are stunning. 443 00:23:11,700 --> 00:23:14,933 On a clear day, the Alps fill the horizon 444 00:23:15,000 --> 00:23:17,100 with all their glory. 445 00:23:17,166 --> 00:23:21,333 ♪♪ 446 00:23:23,900 --> 00:23:26,433 The Zermatt train station is busy each morning 447 00:23:26,500 --> 00:23:28,666 as travelers invest a day of their vacation 448 00:23:28,733 --> 00:23:31,900 to take one of the most scenic train rides in the world, 449 00:23:31,966 --> 00:23:34,233 riding the rails across southern Switzerland 450 00:23:34,300 --> 00:23:36,966 on the Glacier Express. 451 00:23:37,033 --> 00:23:38,133 This journey, 452 00:23:38,200 --> 00:23:40,300 designed to maximize your sightseeing thrills, 453 00:23:40,366 --> 00:23:44,033 features a masterpiece of railway engineering. 454 00:23:44,100 --> 00:23:49,133 The Glacier Express train line crosses 290 bridges and viaducts 455 00:23:49,200 --> 00:23:51,933 and goes through 90 tunnels in 8 hours 456 00:23:52,000 --> 00:23:55,566 as it connects two of the leading Alpine resorts -- 457 00:23:55,633 --> 00:23:59,133 Zermatt and Saint Moritz. 458 00:23:59,200 --> 00:24:01,033 Over a quarter million Alp-lovers 459 00:24:01,100 --> 00:24:03,100 ride this train each year. 460 00:24:03,166 --> 00:24:05,533 People kick back and just relax, 461 00:24:05,600 --> 00:24:09,533 enjoying big windows for bigger views. 462 00:24:09,600 --> 00:24:12,500 The scenery unfolds as the train carves its way 463 00:24:12,566 --> 00:24:14,700 through the Swiss landscape. 464 00:24:14,766 --> 00:24:16,166 In the glaciers high above 465 00:24:16,233 --> 00:24:18,466 are born some of Europe's great rivers, 466 00:24:18,533 --> 00:24:25,100 which flow from here to both the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. 467 00:24:25,166 --> 00:24:28,366 Now we're trading away some of the staggering Alpine peaks 468 00:24:28,433 --> 00:24:31,966 for an insight into the Swiss and their heritage. 469 00:24:32,033 --> 00:24:33,733 This is Appenzell -- 470 00:24:33,800 --> 00:24:36,366 cowbell country and storybook-friendly. 471 00:24:38,133 --> 00:24:41,400 According to legend, the devil was flying over these hills 472 00:24:41,466 --> 00:24:44,033 with a sack filled with houses. 473 00:24:44,100 --> 00:24:45,933 A sharp peak tore a hole in the sack, 474 00:24:46,000 --> 00:24:49,500 and lots of chalets sprinkled over the countryside. 475 00:24:49,566 --> 00:24:53,066 To this day, the farms and hamlets remain widely scattered, 476 00:24:53,133 --> 00:24:55,033 and the canton of Appenzell 477 00:24:55,100 --> 00:24:58,333 remains one of Switzerland's most traditional. 478 00:25:00,566 --> 00:25:03,233 The Swiss are famously independent, and historically, 479 00:25:03,300 --> 00:25:05,000 the big threat to their independence 480 00:25:05,066 --> 00:25:07,633 was the Habsburg Empire from Austria. 481 00:25:07,700 --> 00:25:10,233 In the Middle Ages, this region was fragmented 482 00:25:10,300 --> 00:25:12,600 into small cantons, or states. 483 00:25:12,666 --> 00:25:14,033 In the 13th century, 484 00:25:14,100 --> 00:25:17,633 three of these cantons joined together to fight the Habsburgs. 485 00:25:17,700 --> 00:25:20,666 By 1291, they established their independence, 486 00:25:20,733 --> 00:25:22,700 and Switzerland was born. 487 00:25:22,766 --> 00:25:26,500 This union eventually grew to include 26 cantons 488 00:25:26,566 --> 00:25:29,100 and the country we know today. 489 00:25:29,166 --> 00:25:32,366 Switzerland is unique among its European neighbors. 490 00:25:32,433 --> 00:25:35,533 It's not in the E.U., and, rather than the euro, 491 00:25:35,600 --> 00:25:38,400 it uses its own currency. 492 00:25:38,466 --> 00:25:39,733 This stubborn pride 493 00:25:39,800 --> 00:25:42,333 and the resulting survival of local traditions 494 00:25:42,400 --> 00:25:44,166 is one thing that makes Switzerland 495 00:25:44,233 --> 00:25:46,300 such a rewarding place to visit. 496 00:25:46,366 --> 00:25:47,766 [ Cowbells clacking ] 497 00:25:47,833 --> 00:25:49,700 You feel the strength of that tradition 498 00:25:49,766 --> 00:25:53,000 here in the town of Appenzell. 499 00:25:53,066 --> 00:25:56,033 Amazingly, it wasn't until 1990 500 00:25:56,100 --> 00:25:59,166 that Appenzell women were given full voting rights. 501 00:26:01,066 --> 00:26:04,600 This has been the capital of the canton for 400 years, 502 00:26:04,666 --> 00:26:08,600 and many of the buildings date back to that time. 503 00:26:08,666 --> 00:26:10,400 [ Bicycle bell rings ] 504 00:26:10,466 --> 00:26:15,700 ♪♪ 505 00:26:15,766 --> 00:26:17,766 Switzerland's independence distinguished it 506 00:26:17,833 --> 00:26:19,433 from European high culture. 507 00:26:19,500 --> 00:26:22,500 Back then, it took royalty or the Roman Catholic church 508 00:26:22,566 --> 00:26:24,900 to pay for big-time cultural achievements. 509 00:26:24,966 --> 00:26:27,933 So, instead of lots of grand palaces and cathedrals, 510 00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:30,000 today, travelers see Swiss culture 511 00:26:30,066 --> 00:26:33,066 on a small and personal scale. 512 00:26:33,133 --> 00:26:35,066 Folk museums here give an intimate peek 513 00:26:35,133 --> 00:26:37,933 into Appenzell's humble rural culture, 514 00:26:38,000 --> 00:26:40,033 with rooms replicating everyday life, 515 00:26:40,100 --> 00:26:42,066 from where they raised their families 516 00:26:42,133 --> 00:26:43,933 to where they worked. 517 00:26:46,233 --> 00:26:49,000 In this 400-year-old building, the ceilings are low, 518 00:26:49,066 --> 00:26:53,700 and the floors are creaky with centuries-old beams. 519 00:26:53,766 --> 00:26:56,700 Simple folk art shows the importance of cows 520 00:26:56,766 --> 00:26:58,433 and the ritual of taking the herd 521 00:26:58,500 --> 00:27:00,166 up to the high meadows for the summer 522 00:27:00,233 --> 00:27:02,800 and back down for the winter. 523 00:27:04,500 --> 00:27:08,366 This room shows life as it was for the herder in the high Alps, 524 00:27:08,433 --> 00:27:13,466 who spent summers alone, milking cows and making cheese. 525 00:27:13,533 --> 00:27:16,366 These decorative cowbells awaited the festive day 526 00:27:16,433 --> 00:27:20,600 when the herd would descend from the high meadow. 527 00:27:20,666 --> 00:27:23,600 It was a world of wood. 528 00:27:23,666 --> 00:27:25,366 The woodshop is where milk pails 529 00:27:25,433 --> 00:27:28,633 would be fashioned out of maple and fir, 530 00:27:28,700 --> 00:27:30,933 soaked in water to be made pliable, 531 00:27:31,000 --> 00:27:33,566 assembled watertight with no nails, 532 00:27:33,633 --> 00:27:36,100 and then artfully carved. 533 00:27:38,033 --> 00:27:39,700 The woodworker's bedroom 534 00:27:39,766 --> 00:27:42,833 reflects the pride he had in his profession. 535 00:27:42,900 --> 00:27:46,466 He earned enough to afford some fine painted furniture. 536 00:27:46,533 --> 00:27:50,000 This wardrobe dates from 1817. 537 00:27:50,066 --> 00:27:56,500 ♪♪ 538 00:27:56,566 --> 00:27:58,800 Whether traveling by train or by car, 539 00:27:58,866 --> 00:28:01,900 mountainous Switzerland has fine infrastructure, 540 00:28:01,966 --> 00:28:04,000 and you can get nearly anywhere in the country 541 00:28:04,066 --> 00:28:07,633 in just a few hours. 542 00:28:07,700 --> 00:28:12,166 The Berner Oberland is a particularly scenic region. 543 00:28:12,233 --> 00:28:13,566 Its Lauterbrunnen Valley, 544 00:28:13,633 --> 00:28:16,100 which stretches south from the city of Interlaken, 545 00:28:16,166 --> 00:28:17,633 is a wonderful springboard 546 00:28:17,700 --> 00:28:22,200 for some of my favorite Swiss Alp experiences. 547 00:28:22,266 --> 00:28:23,566 Lauterbrunnen Valley, 548 00:28:23,633 --> 00:28:26,833 with its vertical sides and flat bottom, is U-shaped, 549 00:28:26,900 --> 00:28:30,400 a textbook example of a glacier-shaped valley. 550 00:28:30,466 --> 00:28:32,800 While the main town, also called Lauterbrunnen, 551 00:28:32,866 --> 00:28:34,500 sits on the valley floor, 552 00:28:34,566 --> 00:28:39,200 neighboring towns hang on cliffs high above. 553 00:28:39,266 --> 00:28:44,166 "Lauterbrunnen" means "loud waters" -- an apt name. 554 00:28:44,233 --> 00:28:47,833 Waterfalls plummet from cliffs all along the valley. 555 00:28:50,700 --> 00:28:53,000 Staubbach Falls -- one of the highest in Switzerland -- 556 00:28:53,066 --> 00:28:55,333 drops nearly 1,000 feet. 557 00:28:55,400 --> 00:29:00,033 ♪♪ 558 00:29:00,100 --> 00:29:03,966 The valley -- with its riverside trails, 559 00:29:04,033 --> 00:29:06,600 traditional farmhouses, 560 00:29:06,666 --> 00:29:10,166 and chorus of surrounding peaks cheering you on -- 561 00:29:10,233 --> 00:29:14,133 is a magnet for nature lovers. 562 00:29:14,200 --> 00:29:15,266 Towering high above 563 00:29:15,333 --> 00:29:16,466 are the icy Jungfrau, Monch, and Eiger peaks, 564 00:29:16,533 --> 00:29:21,866 named for the legend of the young maiden, Jungfrau, 565 00:29:21,933 --> 00:29:24,433 being protected by the monk, or Monch, 566 00:29:24,500 --> 00:29:29,000 from the mean ogre, or Eiger. 567 00:29:29,066 --> 00:29:32,066 And perched on a saddle between two of those mountains 568 00:29:32,133 --> 00:29:34,566 is the Jungfraujoch Station, 569 00:29:34,633 --> 00:29:37,766 and that's where we're going by train. 570 00:29:39,266 --> 00:29:41,300 From the valley floor, a cogwheel train 571 00:29:41,366 --> 00:29:43,466 takes tourists and mountaineers alike 572 00:29:43,533 --> 00:29:46,466 on this ear-popping journey. 573 00:29:46,533 --> 00:29:50,633 As we gradually climb, the views continually unfold. 574 00:29:50,700 --> 00:29:54,466 ♪♪ 575 00:29:54,533 --> 00:29:58,266 ♪♪ 576 00:29:58,333 --> 00:30:01,466 [ Cow moos ] 577 00:30:01,533 --> 00:30:03,866 Eventually, we arrive at Kleine Scheidegg, 578 00:30:03,933 --> 00:30:07,866 a rail junction at the base of the peaks. 579 00:30:07,933 --> 00:30:11,366 For well over a century, this has been the jumping-off point 580 00:30:11,433 --> 00:30:13,433 for rock climbers attempting to scale 581 00:30:13,500 --> 00:30:18,733 the foreboding north face of the Eiger. 582 00:30:18,800 --> 00:30:22,966 Kleine Scheidegg has souvenir shops, 583 00:30:23,033 --> 00:30:25,500 hearty food for hikers, 584 00:30:25,566 --> 00:30:28,266 and rustic 19th-century hotels -- 585 00:30:28,333 --> 00:30:33,200 a reminder that tourism is nothing new here. 586 00:30:33,266 --> 00:30:35,466 With the craze for social media these days 587 00:30:35,533 --> 00:30:36,900 and with millions of people 588 00:30:36,966 --> 00:30:38,866 from countries with emerging economies 589 00:30:38,933 --> 00:30:41,433 now able to afford that dream trip to Europe, 590 00:30:41,500 --> 00:30:45,100 famous destinations like this can be really crowded. 591 00:30:45,166 --> 00:30:47,066 Do what you can to minimize the crowds. 592 00:30:47,133 --> 00:30:49,766 Arrive early, arrive late -- it really helps. 593 00:30:52,733 --> 00:30:55,733 Continuing our journey to Europe's highest train station, 594 00:30:55,800 --> 00:30:58,166 the ingenuity of Swiss engineers is apparent 595 00:30:58,233 --> 00:31:02,100 as we climb the railway they built back in 1912. 596 00:31:02,166 --> 00:31:04,800 Amazingly, our train tunnels through the Eiger 597 00:31:04,866 --> 00:31:08,133 on our climb all the way to the Jungfraujoch. 598 00:31:09,800 --> 00:31:11,733 Think about it -- the Swiss drilled this tunnel 599 00:31:11,800 --> 00:31:12,933 through solid rock. 600 00:31:13,000 --> 00:31:14,333 It's four miles long. 601 00:31:14,400 --> 00:31:15,733 This train is smooth, 602 00:31:15,800 --> 00:31:17,600 and they did it 100 years ago. 603 00:31:17,666 --> 00:31:19,100 Why? 604 00:31:19,166 --> 00:31:23,500 To show off their engineering skills and to celebrate nature. 605 00:31:23,566 --> 00:31:27,566 Halfway up, the train stops at panorama windows. 606 00:31:27,633 --> 00:31:30,266 While expert rock climbers can exit here 607 00:31:30,333 --> 00:31:33,533 into an unforgiving world of ice and air, 608 00:31:33,600 --> 00:31:34,966 sightseers get their thrills 609 00:31:35,033 --> 00:31:38,500 by simply marveling at the icy views. 610 00:31:38,566 --> 00:31:39,900 [ Train rumbling ] 611 00:31:39,966 --> 00:31:41,466 Continuing up the tunnel, 612 00:31:41,533 --> 00:31:45,166 from here, the train's cogwheels earn their keep. 613 00:31:45,233 --> 00:31:49,366 You emerge at 11,000 feet -- the Jungfraujoch. 614 00:31:49,433 --> 00:31:51,766 Spectacular views of majestic peaks 615 00:31:51,833 --> 00:31:54,133 stretch as far as you can see. 616 00:31:56,500 --> 00:31:58,266 Cradled among these giants, 617 00:31:58,333 --> 00:32:04,233 you understand the timeless allure of the Swiss Alps. 618 00:32:04,300 --> 00:32:06,666 The Jungfraujoch is like a small resort 619 00:32:06,733 --> 00:32:09,166 perched on a mountain ridge. 620 00:32:09,233 --> 00:32:12,766 From the highest viewing point, you can see the Aletsch Glacier, 621 00:32:12,833 --> 00:32:16,200 which stretches about 10 miles to the south. 622 00:32:16,266 --> 00:32:18,566 While shrinking with the warming global climate, 623 00:32:18,633 --> 00:32:23,700 it's still the longest glacier in the Alps. 624 00:32:23,766 --> 00:32:26,266 The air is thin. 625 00:32:26,333 --> 00:32:30,233 People are in giddy moods. 626 00:32:30,300 --> 00:32:35,633 The station is a maze of shops, restaurants, and amusements. 627 00:32:35,700 --> 00:32:37,900 A tunnel is actually carved through the glacier 628 00:32:37,966 --> 00:32:41,100 to a cavern of ice sculptures -- an especially big hit 629 00:32:41,166 --> 00:32:45,200 for visitors from lands where ice is a rarity. 630 00:32:45,266 --> 00:32:48,166 Outside on the glacier, people enjoy the scene. 631 00:32:48,233 --> 00:32:50,433 From here, many venture even higher 632 00:32:50,500 --> 00:32:54,666 as a snowy trail leads to more mountain thrills. 633 00:32:54,733 --> 00:32:56,966 But for me, I'll call this good 634 00:32:57,033 --> 00:32:59,733 and savor the sense of accomplishment I get 635 00:32:59,800 --> 00:33:05,200 when climbing to 11,370 feet before lunch. 636 00:33:05,266 --> 00:33:12,600 ♪♪ 637 00:33:14,666 --> 00:33:18,866 The Berner Oberland has something for everybody. 638 00:33:18,933 --> 00:33:20,766 Part of the fun and much of the expense 639 00:33:20,833 --> 00:33:24,433 of enjoying the Alps is riding the various lifts. 640 00:33:24,500 --> 00:33:28,666 Funiculars let hikers gain altitude quick and easy. 641 00:33:28,733 --> 00:33:31,833 This lift actually lets visitors ride on the rooftop -- 642 00:33:31,900 --> 00:33:34,100 a great way to more fully appreciate 643 00:33:34,166 --> 00:33:37,933 the staggering beauty of the region. 644 00:33:38,000 --> 00:33:40,500 And once again, it's fun to leave the crowds 645 00:33:40,566 --> 00:33:42,800 by getting off at an intermediary station 646 00:33:42,866 --> 00:33:44,600 and taking a hike. 647 00:33:44,666 --> 00:33:46,333 There's a special camaraderie 648 00:33:46,400 --> 00:33:50,733 with people who actually get out and hike. 649 00:33:50,800 --> 00:33:53,033 And within moments, you're sharing the experience 650 00:33:53,100 --> 00:33:58,100 with fellow hikers and enjoying the Alps in a way so many miss. 651 00:34:00,033 --> 00:34:01,700 Towns like Murren were developed 652 00:34:01,766 --> 00:34:04,766 to accommodate nature-loving tourists. 653 00:34:04,833 --> 00:34:07,366 They cater to your every need. 654 00:34:07,433 --> 00:34:10,333 You can stroll through traffic-free centers, 655 00:34:10,400 --> 00:34:13,366 and towns are springboards for a popular option -- 656 00:34:13,433 --> 00:34:15,433 the electric bike. 657 00:34:15,500 --> 00:34:17,100 While service roads in the high country 658 00:34:17,166 --> 00:34:19,300 may be closed to regular traffic, 659 00:34:19,366 --> 00:34:21,300 e-bikes are more than welcome, 660 00:34:21,366 --> 00:34:25,200 and they make you look fitter than you actually are. 661 00:34:27,300 --> 00:34:29,900 Remote towns may be beyond the reach of your car, 662 00:34:29,966 --> 00:34:33,100 but all are accessible by various lifts. 663 00:34:33,166 --> 00:34:37,966 One of my favorites is the idyllic village of Gimmelwald. 664 00:34:40,600 --> 00:34:42,933 The village, established in the Middle Ages 665 00:34:43,000 --> 00:34:45,033 precariously on the edge of a cliff, 666 00:34:45,100 --> 00:34:48,566 was one of the poorest places in Switzerland. 667 00:34:48,633 --> 00:34:51,100 Gimmelwald works together like a big family. 668 00:34:51,166 --> 00:34:53,266 In fact, most of the hundred or so residents here 669 00:34:53,333 --> 00:34:57,833 share one of two last names -- von Allmen or Feuz. 670 00:34:57,900 --> 00:35:00,500 My friend Olle, long the village schoolteacher, 671 00:35:00,566 --> 00:35:02,466 enjoys showing me around. 672 00:35:02,533 --> 00:35:06,666 This is the oldest house, from 1658. 673 00:35:06,733 --> 00:35:09,133 And the woodwork is generally unpainted -- 674 00:35:09,200 --> 00:35:10,733 just bleached in the sun. 675 00:35:10,800 --> 00:35:14,033 Originally hay up top and cows below. 676 00:35:14,100 --> 00:35:16,900 For generations, families have lovingly tended 677 00:35:16,966 --> 00:35:18,500 their vegetable gardens. 678 00:35:18,566 --> 00:35:21,033 They still are relied on to put food on the table, 679 00:35:21,100 --> 00:35:24,533 and this one comes with an artistic side. 680 00:35:26,033 --> 00:35:27,900 Retaining their traditional ways, 681 00:35:27,966 --> 00:35:29,500 farmers here make ends meet 682 00:35:29,566 --> 00:35:33,933 only with help from Swiss government subsidies. 683 00:35:34,000 --> 00:35:38,400 They supplement that by working the ski lifts in the winter. 684 00:35:38,466 --> 00:35:42,266 Modern tourism has contributed to the local economy, as well. 685 00:35:42,333 --> 00:35:44,266 Pension Gimmelwald's terraced restaurant 686 00:35:44,333 --> 00:35:46,833 is filled with happy hikers at dinnertime, 687 00:35:46,900 --> 00:35:51,333 enthused by the memories they earned with today's hike. 688 00:35:54,366 --> 00:35:56,133 I've been coming to Gimmelwald all my life, 689 00:35:56,200 --> 00:35:57,800 and it never gets old. 690 00:35:57,866 --> 00:36:00,000 With the world changing as fast as it is, 691 00:36:00,066 --> 00:36:03,333 I find it refreshing to know that there are places like this 692 00:36:03,400 --> 00:36:06,100 that still embrace their traditions. 693 00:36:06,166 --> 00:36:09,000 Dairy is the traditional industry here. 694 00:36:09,066 --> 00:36:11,566 Collecting grass to get their cows through the winter 695 00:36:11,633 --> 00:36:15,033 on these steep slopes is labor-intensive. 696 00:36:17,500 --> 00:36:19,000 Each family fills silos 697 00:36:19,066 --> 00:36:23,233 with enough to feed a dozen or so cows. 698 00:36:23,300 --> 00:36:26,166 But we're here in summer, and the cows are in the high Alp 699 00:36:26,233 --> 00:36:29,566 enjoying a diet of fresh grass and flowers. 700 00:36:29,633 --> 00:36:32,766 From their milk, some of the most prized cheese in the world 701 00:36:32,833 --> 00:36:36,500 is still made in the traditional way. 702 00:36:36,566 --> 00:36:37,933 We're joining a small tour group 703 00:36:38,000 --> 00:36:40,566 organized by the village tourist office. 704 00:36:40,633 --> 00:36:42,600 Of the countless visitors in this valley, 705 00:36:42,666 --> 00:36:44,433 these travelers took the initiative 706 00:36:44,500 --> 00:36:49,200 to enjoy this intimate peek at local culture in action. 707 00:36:49,266 --> 00:36:51,800 Once the milk is heated to just the right temperature, 708 00:36:51,866 --> 00:36:55,166 the cheesemaker, using his teeth as well as his hands, 709 00:36:55,233 --> 00:36:57,833 masterfully scoops about ten kilos of curds 710 00:36:57,900 --> 00:37:00,233 from the bottom of the cauldron. 711 00:37:00,300 --> 00:37:02,333 He then plops the sopping cheesecloth 712 00:37:02,400 --> 00:37:04,766 into a circular mold. 713 00:37:06,033 --> 00:37:07,400 It's quickly pressed 714 00:37:07,466 --> 00:37:11,033 to remove as much of the liquid, or whey, as possible. 715 00:37:11,100 --> 00:37:13,200 [ Cheesemaker speaking indistinctly ] 716 00:37:13,266 --> 00:37:17,033 As the moisture is removed and the aging process begins, 717 00:37:17,100 --> 00:37:21,466 a wheel of wet curds becomes a wheel of Alp cheese, 718 00:37:21,533 --> 00:37:24,766 frequently brushed with brine and stored flat on shelves 719 00:37:24,833 --> 00:37:28,866 in a shed like this one for up to two years. 720 00:37:28,933 --> 00:37:30,933 [ Alphorn blowing ] 721 00:37:35,766 --> 00:37:38,033 In the high country, I also enjoy a chance 722 00:37:38,100 --> 00:37:39,766 to hear traditional music -- 723 00:37:39,833 --> 00:37:42,000 and up here, along with yodeling, 724 00:37:42,066 --> 00:37:47,600 that means the long, legato tones of the alphorn. 725 00:37:47,666 --> 00:37:51,000 The alphorn has a range of nearly 3 octaves. 726 00:37:51,066 --> 00:37:55,500 But with no valves, it's limited to the same notes as a bugle. 727 00:37:55,566 --> 00:37:56,933 Used throughout the Alps, 728 00:37:57,000 --> 00:38:01,466 this horn has played a role in this culture for 500 years -- 729 00:38:01,533 --> 00:38:05,233 to call cows from pasture to the barn for milking, 730 00:38:05,300 --> 00:38:07,400 as a way for herdsmen in the high meadows 731 00:38:07,466 --> 00:38:11,600 to communicate with people in the valley below, 732 00:38:11,666 --> 00:38:15,200 and even as a call to prayer through remote valleys. 733 00:38:15,266 --> 00:38:17,200 [ Alphorn continues blowing ] 734 00:38:17,266 --> 00:38:25,033 ♪♪ 735 00:38:25,100 --> 00:38:28,600 Oh, and we've got time for one more Swiss summit. 736 00:38:28,666 --> 00:38:30,000 High above this meadow, 737 00:38:30,066 --> 00:38:34,600 a peak called the Schilthorn emerges from the clouds. 738 00:38:37,166 --> 00:38:38,933 And in good Swiss fashion, 739 00:38:39,000 --> 00:38:41,533 a modern cable car, the Schilthornbahn, 740 00:38:41,600 --> 00:38:45,833 zips visitors effortlessly to its summit. 741 00:38:47,933 --> 00:38:51,166 In the Alps, while the valleys may be blanketed in clouds, 742 00:38:51,233 --> 00:38:53,866 the peaks can be brilliantly sunny. 743 00:38:53,933 --> 00:38:55,366 Get an early start -- 744 00:38:55,433 --> 00:39:00,866 the peaks are often clear in the morning and then cloud up. 745 00:39:00,933 --> 00:39:03,200 The 10,000-foot summit of the Schilthorn 746 00:39:03,266 --> 00:39:06,466 awaits skiers, hikers, and sightseers 747 00:39:06,533 --> 00:39:09,266 both winter and summer. 748 00:39:11,333 --> 00:39:13,300 This station, which capitalizes 749 00:39:13,366 --> 00:39:15,366 on its role in a James Bond film, 750 00:39:15,433 --> 00:39:18,333 awaits with a revolving restaurant -- 751 00:39:18,400 --> 00:39:23,233 perfect for spies nursing their 007 martinis. 752 00:39:23,300 --> 00:39:24,800 Meanwhile on the panorama terrace, 753 00:39:24,866 --> 00:39:26,466 families pick out the peaks 754 00:39:26,533 --> 00:39:32,433 while others thrill at 360 degrees of Alpine splendor. 755 00:39:32,500 --> 00:39:34,700 For me, the majesty of the mountains 756 00:39:34,766 --> 00:39:38,600 is easiest to appreciate on my own private perch. 757 00:39:40,700 --> 00:39:44,433 As always, try to make a point to get away from the crowds, 758 00:39:44,500 --> 00:39:50,133 to be alone, to savor an unforgettable moment. 759 00:39:54,066 --> 00:39:56,800 Continuing with our high-altitude explorations, 760 00:39:56,866 --> 00:39:58,400 we move on to France 761 00:39:58,466 --> 00:40:02,666 to celebrate the summit of Europe, Mont Blanc. 762 00:40:02,733 --> 00:40:05,166 France, the biggest country in Western Europe, 763 00:40:05,233 --> 00:40:07,800 has glorious Alps in the east. 764 00:40:07,866 --> 00:40:11,400 We start in Chamonix, in the shadow of Mont Blanc. 765 00:40:11,466 --> 00:40:13,466 We ride the lift up to the Aiguille du Midi 766 00:40:13,533 --> 00:40:17,066 and then cross over the border to Italy. 767 00:40:17,133 --> 00:40:19,266 Then we hike the Tour du Mont Blanc, 768 00:40:19,333 --> 00:40:24,166 a trail that circles that iconic mountain. 769 00:40:24,233 --> 00:40:25,766 Driving into France's Alps, 770 00:40:25,833 --> 00:40:28,100 a scenic valley leads toward Mont Blanc, 771 00:40:28,166 --> 00:40:30,733 the tallest peak in Europe. 772 00:40:30,800 --> 00:40:33,666 The Alpine resort of Chamonix, nestled in the valley, 773 00:40:33,733 --> 00:40:37,600 is filled with enthusiasm for the surrounding mountains. 774 00:40:37,666 --> 00:40:41,866 Tourists and avid climbers alike mix it up in the streets. 775 00:40:44,300 --> 00:40:46,700 Statues celebrate famous mountaineers 776 00:40:46,766 --> 00:40:49,300 with their sights set on Mont Blanc. 777 00:40:49,366 --> 00:40:54,233 These men were the first to climb it back in 1786. 778 00:40:54,300 --> 00:40:55,633 After that triumphant summit, 779 00:40:55,700 --> 00:40:58,700 mountain climbing became fashionable, Chamonix boomed, 780 00:40:58,766 --> 00:41:02,633 and to this day, it serves the dreams of serious climbers 781 00:41:02,700 --> 00:41:04,966 and day hikers alike. 782 00:41:05,033 --> 00:41:07,433 For advice on finding just the right hike, 783 00:41:07,500 --> 00:41:10,266 the helpful tourist office can get you oriented. 784 00:41:10,333 --> 00:41:11,966 The staff knows the weather patterns 785 00:41:12,033 --> 00:41:13,366 and can match your abilities 786 00:41:13,433 --> 00:41:15,400 with the most interesting hikes in the area. 787 00:41:15,466 --> 00:41:18,433 -...walk from here, you go across -- 788 00:41:18,500 --> 00:41:21,900 -We're heading for a station 12,600 feet high, 789 00:41:21,966 --> 00:41:24,200 just across from the summit of Mont Blanc. 790 00:41:24,266 --> 00:41:27,000 From there, we hop on a gondola and soar high 791 00:41:27,066 --> 00:41:29,500 over the glacier to the border of Italy. 792 00:41:29,566 --> 00:41:31,100 ♪♪ 793 00:41:31,166 --> 00:41:35,100 The well-organized lift handles huge crowds in peak season. 794 00:41:35,166 --> 00:41:39,466 We are here on a sunny Sunday in August, and it's packed. 795 00:41:39,533 --> 00:41:41,300 Within minutes, the powerful cable car 796 00:41:41,366 --> 00:41:44,033 sweeps us up 10,000 vertical feet 797 00:41:44,100 --> 00:41:48,100 from Chamonix to a pinnacle called the Aiguille du Midi. 798 00:41:50,266 --> 00:41:53,066 From the top of the lift, a tunnel leads into the rock 799 00:41:53,133 --> 00:41:55,766 where we make our final ascent by elevator 800 00:41:55,833 --> 00:41:58,233 to a commanding perch. 801 00:41:58,300 --> 00:42:00,133 Before us spreads the Alps. 802 00:42:00,200 --> 00:42:03,300 You can almost reach out and pat the head of Mont Blanc. 803 00:42:03,366 --> 00:42:05,466 At nearly 16,000 feet, 804 00:42:05,533 --> 00:42:08,700 Mont Blanc is the top of Europe. 805 00:42:08,766 --> 00:42:10,400 Up here, the air is thin. 806 00:42:10,466 --> 00:42:14,500 People are awestruck by the grandeur of these mountains. 807 00:42:14,566 --> 00:42:16,200 And back on the floor of the valley, 808 00:42:16,266 --> 00:42:20,800 nearly two miles below, is where we started -- Chamonix. 809 00:42:20,866 --> 00:42:24,866 The Aiguille du Midi station is a maze of tunnels and stairs 810 00:42:24,933 --> 00:42:26,933 leading to various thin-air amusements 811 00:42:27,000 --> 00:42:29,033 and stunning viewpoints. 812 00:42:29,100 --> 00:42:32,300 ♪♪ 813 00:42:32,366 --> 00:42:34,600 This is one of the highest lifts in Europe. 814 00:42:34,666 --> 00:42:36,266 Everything's breathtaking. 815 00:42:36,333 --> 00:42:39,566 At 12,000 feet, even the stairs are breathtaking. 816 00:42:41,700 --> 00:42:45,133 For an easy thrill, don't miss the glass box. 817 00:42:45,200 --> 00:42:51,500 You can stand in midair with no risk but plenty of fear. 818 00:42:51,566 --> 00:42:54,566 This ice tunnel, like a gateway to oblivion, 819 00:42:54,633 --> 00:42:57,533 is from where skiers and climbers depart. 820 00:42:57,600 --> 00:43:00,400 From here, tourists get to see why Chamonix 821 00:43:00,466 --> 00:43:03,433 attracts climbers from all over the world. 822 00:43:03,500 --> 00:43:07,000 ♪♪ 823 00:43:07,066 --> 00:43:09,633 For your own private glacial dreamworld, 824 00:43:09,700 --> 00:43:12,433 hop onto the petite gondola and head south 825 00:43:12,500 --> 00:43:16,633 to Helbronner Point, which marks the border of Italy. 826 00:43:16,700 --> 00:43:19,200 Dangling silently for 30 minutes, 827 00:43:19,266 --> 00:43:21,500 we glide over the glacier. 828 00:43:21,566 --> 00:43:24,500 From here, it's clear why the glacier is called 829 00:43:24,566 --> 00:43:28,200 the Mer de Glace -- sea of ice. 830 00:43:28,266 --> 00:43:31,733 And below us, safely navigating deadly crevasses, 831 00:43:31,800 --> 00:43:33,533 small groups with mountain guides 832 00:43:33,600 --> 00:43:37,333 enjoy the challenge of their choice. 833 00:43:37,400 --> 00:43:39,333 We're surrounded by a majestic world 834 00:43:39,400 --> 00:43:43,733 of jagged rock needles, called aiguille in French. 835 00:43:43,800 --> 00:43:46,666 ♪♪ 836 00:43:46,733 --> 00:43:49,766 The Giant's Tooth, not climbed until 1882, 837 00:43:49,833 --> 00:43:54,100 was one of the last to be conquered. 838 00:43:54,166 --> 00:43:58,966 The cable stretches three miles with no solid pylon for support. 839 00:43:59,033 --> 00:44:01,300 It's as if we're floating. 840 00:44:01,366 --> 00:44:03,266 And here comes Italy. 841 00:44:03,333 --> 00:44:07,033 ♪♪ 842 00:44:07,100 --> 00:44:10,733 Helbronner Point is the French/Italian border station. 843 00:44:10,800 --> 00:44:12,800 From this 11,000-foot-high station, 844 00:44:12,866 --> 00:44:17,333 the lift descends into Italy's remote valley of Aosta. 845 00:44:17,400 --> 00:44:21,266 Hikers from both countries enjoy the sun and the views. 846 00:44:21,333 --> 00:44:25,500 ♪♪ 847 00:44:25,566 --> 00:44:27,700 Among countless peaks, you can pick out 848 00:44:27,766 --> 00:44:30,400 the perky Matterhorn in the distance, 849 00:44:30,466 --> 00:44:33,133 and you can look down on the classic hundred mile trail 850 00:44:33,200 --> 00:44:34,766 that circles Mont Blanc -- 851 00:44:34,833 --> 00:44:37,066 part of which we'll be hiking later. 852 00:44:37,133 --> 00:44:40,233 But today, we're heading back to Chamonix. 853 00:44:40,300 --> 00:44:45,966 ♪♪ 854 00:44:46,033 --> 00:44:50,133 Chamonix hosted the first Winter Olympics in 1924, 855 00:44:50,200 --> 00:44:53,133 and it still feels like an international festival. 856 00:44:53,200 --> 00:44:56,166 Whether it's après-ski or après-hike, 857 00:44:56,233 --> 00:44:58,966 the streets of Chamonix are always lively. 858 00:44:59,033 --> 00:45:01,100 And with all this strolling ambience, 859 00:45:01,166 --> 00:45:05,300 one of my favorite valley walks is simply through the town. 860 00:45:07,766 --> 00:45:10,700 Chamonix was one of the original Alpine resorts. 861 00:45:10,766 --> 00:45:13,966 Until about the year 1800, people didn't climb or hike 862 00:45:14,033 --> 00:45:17,966 or even paint mountains much. Mountains were a pain. 863 00:45:18,033 --> 00:45:20,566 Then in the 19th century, the Romantic movement 864 00:45:20,633 --> 00:45:24,166 had people all across Europe communing with nature. 865 00:45:24,233 --> 00:45:25,866 Eventually, engineers constructed 866 00:45:25,933 --> 00:45:28,266 a state-of-the-art array of trains and lifts 867 00:45:28,333 --> 00:45:30,800 to get the influx of nature-hungry city folk 868 00:45:30,866 --> 00:45:34,033 high into the mountains with ease. 869 00:45:34,100 --> 00:45:36,600 One of the first, this two-car cog-wheel train, 870 00:45:36,666 --> 00:45:40,233 inaugurated in 1909, transported turn-of-the-century visitors 871 00:45:40,300 --> 00:45:43,233 to the edge of the Mer de Glace glacier, 872 00:45:43,300 --> 00:45:47,566 and it's thrilling visitors to this day. 873 00:45:47,633 --> 00:45:49,500 This train was built over the objection 874 00:45:49,566 --> 00:45:50,966 of a couple hundred mule owners 875 00:45:51,033 --> 00:45:53,133 who figured it would put them out of business. 876 00:45:53,200 --> 00:45:55,266 I'd say they were probably right. 877 00:45:55,333 --> 00:45:58,066 The Mer de Glace is France's largest glacier, 878 00:45:58,133 --> 00:45:59,466 four miles long. 879 00:45:59,533 --> 00:46:03,033 In the 1600s, the glacier extended much farther downhill, 880 00:46:03,100 --> 00:46:05,633 actually threatening to block off the valley. 881 00:46:05,700 --> 00:46:08,400 But now it's going in the opposite direction, 882 00:46:08,466 --> 00:46:11,466 receding dramatically. 883 00:46:11,533 --> 00:46:14,366 When we travel, we see and experience vivid examples 884 00:46:14,433 --> 00:46:15,800 of climate change. 885 00:46:15,866 --> 00:46:19,333 For me, this shrinking glacier is one of the most poignant. 886 00:46:19,400 --> 00:46:21,566 When I first came here back in the '80s, 887 00:46:21,633 --> 00:46:24,866 the Mer de Glace was hundreds of feet higher than it is today. 888 00:46:24,933 --> 00:46:27,133 From up above, on the observation deck, 889 00:46:27,200 --> 00:46:30,300 it's hard to imagine that, just a few decades ago, 890 00:46:30,366 --> 00:46:32,033 the glacier was so much higher, 891 00:46:32,100 --> 00:46:34,766 nearly filling this narrow valley. 892 00:46:34,833 --> 00:46:36,233 A cable car descends, 893 00:46:36,300 --> 00:46:38,800 taking visitors closer to the glacier. 894 00:46:38,866 --> 00:46:41,800 From there, the hike down to the receding sea of ice 895 00:46:41,866 --> 00:46:44,266 gets longer each year. 896 00:46:44,333 --> 00:46:46,533 Disturbing markers show where the glacier was 897 00:46:46,600 --> 00:46:48,933 just a short time ago. 898 00:46:49,000 --> 00:46:54,200 A touristic tunnel is carved deep into the ice. 899 00:46:54,266 --> 00:46:55,833 Hiking into it, you find yourself 900 00:46:55,900 --> 00:47:00,433 in a cool, dripping world of translucent blue. 901 00:47:00,500 --> 00:47:03,066 And on an ice carving meant to call attention 902 00:47:03,133 --> 00:47:07,233 to climate change, tourists pose obliviously. 903 00:47:11,200 --> 00:47:13,433 I'm meeting up with Cassandra Overby, 904 00:47:13,500 --> 00:47:15,733 author of "Explore Europe on Foot," 905 00:47:15,800 --> 00:47:18,733 and an expert on Europe's long-distance hikes. 906 00:47:18,800 --> 00:47:20,300 We'll join her for a couple days 907 00:47:20,366 --> 00:47:23,400 as she hikes the classic Tour du Mont Blanc. 908 00:47:23,466 --> 00:47:25,700 Before any serious hike in this region, 909 00:47:25,766 --> 00:47:26,966 it's smart to drop by 910 00:47:27,033 --> 00:47:29,200 the Mountain Guide Center in Chamonix 911 00:47:29,266 --> 00:47:32,333 to review plans and be sure you know all the latest. 912 00:47:32,400 --> 00:47:35,433 You can get an individual consultation to tailor your hike 913 00:47:35,500 --> 00:47:39,466 to your time frame and ability. 914 00:47:39,533 --> 00:47:42,666 Europe has many iconic long-distance hikes, 915 00:47:42,733 --> 00:47:47,666 and one of the most popular is the Tour du Mont Blanc. 916 00:47:47,733 --> 00:47:49,200 While the Mont Blanc Massif 917 00:47:49,266 --> 00:47:52,166 offers some of Europe's most demanding mountaineering, 918 00:47:52,233 --> 00:47:55,300 this accommodating trail is flexible, 919 00:47:55,366 --> 00:48:00,666 enjoyed by hikers with a wide range of abilities. 920 00:48:00,733 --> 00:48:02,400 It's like a huge park, 921 00:48:02,466 --> 00:48:06,000 part in France, part in Italy, part in Switzerland, 922 00:48:06,066 --> 00:48:09,600 and it's busy June through September. 923 00:48:09,666 --> 00:48:10,700 -Tour du Mont Blanc 924 00:48:10,766 --> 00:48:13,433 circumnavigates Europe's highest peak. 925 00:48:13,500 --> 00:48:16,033 So you go around it in about 10 days, 926 00:48:16,100 --> 00:48:20,100 each day about 10 miles, for a total of 100. 927 00:48:20,166 --> 00:48:22,066 Each day you see a different valley, 928 00:48:22,133 --> 00:48:25,400 a different glacier, a different view of the great mountain. 929 00:48:27,833 --> 00:48:30,966 -The Tour du Mont Blanc is part in wooded farmland 930 00:48:31,033 --> 00:48:35,666 and part above the tree line in the company of glaciers. 931 00:48:35,733 --> 00:48:37,833 The appealing thing about it for American hikers 932 00:48:37,900 --> 00:48:42,666 is the delightful mix of nature, history, and culture. 933 00:48:42,733 --> 00:48:44,033 The people you meet on the trails 934 00:48:44,100 --> 00:48:45,466 come from many lands, 935 00:48:45,533 --> 00:48:48,600 and your days are filled with cheery greetings. 936 00:48:48,666 --> 00:48:51,833 We're in France for this section, so it's "bonjour." 937 00:48:51,900 --> 00:48:53,066 -Bonjour. 938 00:48:53,133 --> 00:48:57,966 ♪♪ 939 00:48:58,033 --> 00:49:00,366 -Hikers here have plenty of options -- 940 00:49:00,433 --> 00:49:03,433 You can hike as little or as much of the route as you like, 941 00:49:03,500 --> 00:49:06,766 but you must reserve your beds well in advance. 942 00:49:06,833 --> 00:49:10,133 One thing I really appreciate, you can hire a transfer service 943 00:49:10,200 --> 00:49:12,266 to take your luggage to the next hut. 944 00:49:12,333 --> 00:49:13,500 That frees me up to hike 945 00:49:13,566 --> 00:49:16,566 with just the essentials in a small day bag. 946 00:49:16,633 --> 00:49:18,033 And with Cassandra's help, 947 00:49:18,100 --> 00:49:21,666 I've chosen a route I'm comfortable with. 948 00:49:21,733 --> 00:49:24,133 A typical day on the trail is about 10 miles 949 00:49:24,200 --> 00:49:28,133 and around six hours of walking, and the route is never dull. 950 00:49:28,200 --> 00:49:30,900 This bridge actually dates back to Roman times, 951 00:49:30,966 --> 00:49:32,533 and for much longer than that, 952 00:49:32,600 --> 00:49:35,966 its river has been carving this gorge. 953 00:49:36,033 --> 00:49:37,400 -So, one of the really interesting parts 954 00:49:37,466 --> 00:49:40,833 about this route is that it used to be an old Roman road. 955 00:49:40,900 --> 00:49:43,700 And there was a Celtic settlement just down the way. 956 00:49:43,766 --> 00:49:45,966 So in addition to Romans and Celts, 957 00:49:46,033 --> 00:49:47,433 these paths were also used by shepherds 958 00:49:47,500 --> 00:49:50,633 taking their stock to different fields. 959 00:49:50,700 --> 00:49:52,533 -Mountain huts, called refuges, 960 00:49:52,600 --> 00:49:55,900 are placed conveniently a day's hike apart. 961 00:49:55,966 --> 00:49:58,233 Our first night is at Nant Borrant, 962 00:49:58,300 --> 00:50:01,300 a mountain lodge dating back to the 1800s. 963 00:50:05,233 --> 00:50:08,566 Huts are basic -- like hostels for adults. 964 00:50:08,633 --> 00:50:10,433 Hikers share co-ed dorms 965 00:50:10,500 --> 00:50:13,433 and follow the mountain hut etiquette -- 966 00:50:13,500 --> 00:50:17,833 Bring your own sleep sack, no boots inside, and so on. 967 00:50:17,900 --> 00:50:20,400 Personal chores are done upon arrival. 968 00:50:20,466 --> 00:50:23,566 Then it's time to relax. 969 00:50:23,633 --> 00:50:24,766 While very simple, 970 00:50:24,833 --> 00:50:28,000 up here, the little things feel luxurious. 971 00:50:28,066 --> 00:50:33,400 A refreshing beer after a day on the trail hits the spot. 972 00:50:33,466 --> 00:50:34,700 Dinner is rustic. 973 00:50:34,766 --> 00:50:38,033 There's no menu. Hikers enjoy whatever is served. 974 00:50:38,100 --> 00:50:40,266 And here, way up in the French Alps, 975 00:50:40,333 --> 00:50:44,466 I'm happy to consider this high cuisine -- 976 00:50:44,533 --> 00:50:47,600 Soup with mountain cheese, 977 00:50:47,666 --> 00:50:50,466 tasty sausage with potato au gratin. 978 00:50:52,666 --> 00:50:56,333 And to complement it all, a hearty red wine from Savoy -- 979 00:50:56,400 --> 00:50:59,500 That's the region we're in. 980 00:50:59,566 --> 00:51:01,333 The culture of the Tour du Mont Blanc 981 00:51:01,400 --> 00:51:05,000 is one of respect for nature, a joie de vivre, 982 00:51:05,066 --> 00:51:07,866 and an international camaraderie. 983 00:51:07,933 --> 00:51:11,000 [ Indistinct conversations ] 984 00:51:14,400 --> 00:51:18,400 In the huts, it's early to bed and early to rise. 985 00:51:18,466 --> 00:51:19,833 After a quick breakfast, 986 00:51:19,900 --> 00:51:23,133 we're on to the next leg of our route. 987 00:51:23,200 --> 00:51:25,966 Since each day you try to cover about 10 miles, 988 00:51:26,033 --> 00:51:29,633 it's important to eat and stay hydrated as you go. 989 00:51:29,700 --> 00:51:31,600 Fortunately, the Tour du Mont Blanc's 990 00:51:31,666 --> 00:51:34,633 enjoyable combination of wilderness and commerce 991 00:51:34,700 --> 00:51:36,300 means the trail is well developed 992 00:51:36,366 --> 00:51:39,633 for the needs of hikers along the way. 993 00:51:39,700 --> 00:51:44,233 And small shops are ideal for assembling a rustic picnic. 994 00:51:44,300 --> 00:51:47,500 -Okay, merci. -Thanks again. 995 00:51:47,566 --> 00:51:49,100 A day's hike is punctuated 996 00:51:49,166 --> 00:51:51,366 by encounters with the mountain culture, 997 00:51:51,433 --> 00:51:52,966 like a dairy farm making cheese 998 00:51:53,033 --> 00:51:56,400 pretty much the way they have for generations. 999 00:51:56,466 --> 00:52:00,366 The farmer's focused on his work and proud of his product. 1000 00:52:00,433 --> 00:52:02,800 [ Farmer speaking French ] 1001 00:52:02,866 --> 00:52:04,833 He treats us to a sample. 1002 00:52:04,900 --> 00:52:06,000 Mmm! 1003 00:52:06,066 --> 00:52:08,333 And we buy a nice slice for the trail. 1004 00:52:08,400 --> 00:52:12,166 Clearly, cheese is the energy bar of the Tour du Mont Blanc. 1005 00:52:13,466 --> 00:52:16,200 Tonight, we're sleeping in a bigger refuge. 1006 00:52:16,266 --> 00:52:19,666 This one's a bit more remote, high above the tree line, 1007 00:52:19,733 --> 00:52:21,266 but with the same hearty food, 1008 00:52:21,333 --> 00:52:24,366 simple dormitories, and great company. 1009 00:52:28,100 --> 00:52:29,466 The next morning, 1010 00:52:29,533 --> 00:52:32,533 the convenience of the baggage transfer service is obvious, 1011 00:52:32,600 --> 00:52:35,633 as bags are taken to a variety of destinations, 1012 00:52:35,700 --> 00:52:39,133 depending on each hiker's plan. 1013 00:52:39,200 --> 00:52:42,066 As we head out on what will be my last day on the trail, 1014 00:52:42,133 --> 00:52:44,400 I realize that, after so many decades, 1015 00:52:44,466 --> 00:52:47,233 I'm enjoying a brand-new European experience, 1016 00:52:47,300 --> 00:52:48,833 an experience I wouldn't have found 1017 00:52:48,900 --> 00:52:51,933 without a great guide like Cassandra. 1018 00:52:52,000 --> 00:52:53,500 Cass, what are the most important things 1019 00:52:53,566 --> 00:52:56,000 people should know when they're hiking like this? 1020 00:52:56,066 --> 00:52:58,733 -You know, there are only really three big things 1021 00:52:58,800 --> 00:53:00,133 that you need to think about. 1022 00:53:00,200 --> 00:53:03,666 The first one is be prepared for time in the outdoors. 1023 00:53:03,733 --> 00:53:06,466 So at a minimum, you need good shoes, 1024 00:53:06,533 --> 00:53:09,900 some great layers, a solid backpack, and a good map. 1025 00:53:09,966 --> 00:53:12,500 Number two is be really proactive about your comfort 1026 00:53:12,566 --> 00:53:13,900 when you're on trail. 1027 00:53:13,966 --> 00:53:17,333 So eat before you're hungry. Drink before you're thirsty. 1028 00:53:17,400 --> 00:53:19,533 And the moment that anything feels uncomfortable, 1029 00:53:19,600 --> 00:53:21,666 if it's your backpack or your shoes, 1030 00:53:21,733 --> 00:53:24,166 just stop and take care of it before you go on. 1031 00:53:24,233 --> 00:53:26,500 -And finally? -Don't be intimidated 1032 00:53:26,566 --> 00:53:29,800 by all of the gear or the athletic nature of walking. 1033 00:53:29,866 --> 00:53:31,500 You don't need to be a hiker. 1034 00:53:31,566 --> 00:53:33,133 You don't need to be a super athlete 1035 00:53:33,200 --> 00:53:34,466 to enjoy this kind of travel. 1036 00:53:34,533 --> 00:53:35,633 -Because look at my gear, 1037 00:53:35,700 --> 00:53:37,200 and look at what shape I'm in, 1038 00:53:37,266 --> 00:53:38,400 and I'm having a blast. 1039 00:53:38,466 --> 00:53:40,633 -Right. It's not about exercise. 1040 00:53:40,700 --> 00:53:43,700 This kind of thing is best when you slow down. 1041 00:53:43,766 --> 00:53:45,733 So, there's a hut around every corner. 1042 00:53:45,800 --> 00:53:47,700 Stop and take a coffee, 1043 00:53:47,766 --> 00:53:49,633 or, in the afternoon, have a victory beer 1044 00:53:49,700 --> 00:53:51,033 if you had a big climb. 1045 00:53:51,100 --> 00:53:53,833 When you find a stream, soak your feet. 1046 00:53:53,900 --> 00:53:55,800 That's really how you enjoy this. 1047 00:53:55,866 --> 00:53:57,200 -It's like you're on vacation. 1048 00:53:57,266 --> 00:53:58,733 -It should be fun. 1049 00:53:58,800 --> 00:54:04,233 ♪♪ 1050 00:54:04,300 --> 00:54:06,566 -Cassandra's hiking the rest of the route, 1051 00:54:06,633 --> 00:54:08,800 but my luggage is back in Chamonix, 1052 00:54:08,866 --> 00:54:12,233 and I will be, too, in time for dinner. 1053 00:54:15,200 --> 00:54:17,533 I hope you've enjoyed our look at the best of the Alps, 1054 00:54:17,600 --> 00:54:20,766 where nature is wild yet still so accessible. 1055 00:54:20,833 --> 00:54:23,166 Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves. 1056 00:54:23,233 --> 00:54:26,866 Until next time, keep on travelin'.