WEBVTT

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-Hi. I'm Rick Steves.

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And right now, I'm the one of
the highest people in Germany,

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and there's lots more
Alpine thrills to come.

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Thanks for joining me as we
explore the best of the Alps.

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♪♪

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♪♪

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♪♪

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I love how, in Europe,
nature and culture mix it up.

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And here in the Alps, each
region has a distinct flavor.

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In this special, we'll celebrate
both nature and culture

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all across the Alps.

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In this greatest hits' look
at Europe's Alps,

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we'll travel through
five different countries,

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each with its own unique
alpine culture.

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[ Folk music playing ]

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Along the way, we'll see some of
Europe's most iconic mountains,

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including the Matterhorn

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and Mont Blanc,
the continent's highest point.

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And we'll conquer many
of these peaks, whether by foot,

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by train,
or a multitude of lifts,

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enjoying plenty
of thin-air thrills.

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♪♪

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We'll explore charming alpine
towns filling romantic valleys

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and hike to cliffhanging
villages.

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And we'll savor hearty
and rustic Alpine cuisine,

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edible traditions particularly
tasty at this altitude.

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And finally, we'll hike,
from easy day trips

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to a guided, classic,
long-distance tour.

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The Alps stretch across Europe
from Vienna

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to the French Riviera,
spanning many countries,

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and we'll scale peaks
in five of them --

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Germany, Austria,
Italy, Switzerland, and France.

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We start with Germany,
Austria, and Italy.

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Our first summit is in Bavaria,
high atop the Zugspitze.

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From there, we travel
south into the Tirol,

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that historic region
which today is split

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between Austria and Italy.

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We visit Innsbruck
and its high country

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before crossing Brenner Pass
into Italy.

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From Kastelruth,
we explore the Dolomites.

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Across the Alps,
mountain resorts

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are investing
in their infrastructure.

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And here in Bavaria,
they've made it quick and easy

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to experience
their mightiest peak.

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♪♪

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The Zugspitze,
at nearly 10,000 feet,

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is Germany's highest mountain.

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And this cable car zips us
to the top in 10 minutes.

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The cable is about 3 miles long.

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It's supported
by only one pylon.

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And it stretches nearly
two miles to the summit

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with no support at all.

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♪♪

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While there are many
higher mountains in the Alps,

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the Zugspitze is unique.

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It stands alone, offering a view
of hundreds of peaks in Germany,

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Austria, Italy,
and even Switzerland.

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The mountain marks the border
between Germany and Austria.

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♪♪

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From here, the Alps arc like
a grand Alpine symphony,

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from Vienna way in the east

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all the way
to the French Riviera,

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where these mountains finally
plunge into the Mediterranean.

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The Zugspitze summit
attracts huge crowds.

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As on so many European
mountaintops,

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you'll find restaurants, shops,
and well-entertained tourists.

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The Zugspitze is famed
for a cold and ghostly wind

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that can really howl
in the winter.

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This hikers' hut
has been perched here

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for well over a century.

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And thanks to these
beefy cables,

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it's never been
blown off the top.

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The summit, first climbed
in 1820,

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is marked by a golden cross,

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carried up here by
hardy villagers back in 1851.

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Today, with the help of iron
steps and cables,

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it's climbed, either from
the distant valley floor

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or from the adjacent
summit restaurant,

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by families, seniors,
and even travel writers.

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These days, escaping the tourist
crowds takes initiative --

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and having a car can be helpful.

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We've crossed into Austria
and are ready to explore.

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Detailed maps show tiny roads
you might not realize exist.

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For a car-hiker's look
at life high in the Alps,

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we're switchbacking up
to a 5,000-foot-high perch.

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From the end of the road,
it's an easy 20-minute stroll

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to the Walderalm farm.

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♪♪

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It's actually a cluster of three
family-run dairy farms --

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with 70 cows --
sharing their meadow

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amid staggering mountain views.

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These families have eked out
a living on these farms

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with remarkably little change
for generations.

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Hans, while well
into his 80s now,

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is still involved
in the family farm.

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Today, it's so hot, the cows
are hanging out in the barn.

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But there's still work
to be done.

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And with the chores finished,

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Hans enjoys whittling
in his spare time.

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His favorite subject?

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Cows, of course.

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[ Cattle lowing ]

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♪♪

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The traditional Alpine farmhouse
was energy efficient,

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considering the technology
of the day.

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The family lived here
on the middle floor.

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The cows got the ground floor.

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There's about 40 cows
just down there.

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They'd catch the body heat
of the cows,

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and that would help
to heat the family.

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And the hay loft
provided insulation

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and the assurance
there'd be enough food

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to get the cows
through the winter.

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And on this farm,
the system works to this day.

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These days, family farms
struggle to survive.

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Here in Europe, many manage only

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with the help
of government subsidies

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and by tapping
into the tourist trade.

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A steady stream of hikers
and bikers work hard

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to reach this idyllic spot.

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And Hans and his family
are happy

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to serve a hearty lunch
or a refreshing drink.

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♪♪

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From up here,
it's all downhill to Innsbruck.

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Filling the valley floor,

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it's one of the biggest cities
within the Alps.

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Innsbruck was an important
outpost of the Habsburg Empire.

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For five centuries, it was
their capital of the Tirol,

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with all the imperial
trappings --

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a grand church,

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a stately palace,

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and an extravagant balcony
fit for a king.

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This much-admired Golden Roof
was built

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for the Habsburg Emperor
Maximilian in 1494.

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The roof, with over 2,000
gilded copper tiles,

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remains the town's centerpiece.

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Innsbruck's historic center
is now a pedestrian zone.

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Looking past the crowds,

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it still feels like a once-grand
provincial capital.

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The city's folk museum is
a medieval Tirolean home show.

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Humble as that rural
farming community may have been,

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an artistic touch prevails.

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The plow seems
to honor hard work.

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One-legged milking stools
were finely carved.

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Cribs were decorated
with religious themes

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to be sure
God watched over the baby.

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♪♪

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Fantastical characters
warded off evil

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and even served
as human scarecrows.

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Merchants carrying their wares
on their backs

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would hike from village
to village.

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This one sold fine fabric.

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Intricately whittled
dioramas show off

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the region's tradition
of fine woodcarving.

07:58.133 --> 08:00.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
While this could be
any Tirolean village,

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upon closer look,
it's Bethlehem in the Alps.

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Bible stories
like this Nativity scene

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made most sense to locals

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when presented in
a familiar hometown setting.

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Today, this manger scene gives
you a glimpse of village life

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in the Tirol
a couple centuries ago.

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Heading south, we cross
Europe's cultural

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and geographical divide,

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driving from the Germanic world,
over the Alps,

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into the Mediterranean world --
Italy.

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The Brenner Pass has been
the easiest way over the Alps

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since ancient Roman times.

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2,000 years ago,

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Roman legions followed
this route, the Via Claudia,

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as they marched north
to conquer much of Europe.

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Sections of the ancient road
are still preserved.

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Deep grooves are reminders
of countless wagon wheels

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that followed this very route.

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Today, the Brenner Pass
is easier

08:58.466 --> 09:00.866 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
than ever to cross
as drivers arc gracefully

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along one of the engineering
wonders of Europe.

09:04.133 --> 09:05.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
From the top of
the Europabrucke,

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or Europe's Bridge,

09:07.400 --> 09:09.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
it feels like
just another freeway,

09:09.866 --> 09:12.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
but from the windy old road
at the valley floor,

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it looks like
a mighty sculpture.

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The freeway zips drivers
from Innsbruck

09:17.000 --> 09:20.266 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
to the Italian border
in about 30 minutes.

09:20.333 --> 09:22.833 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
How about pasta for lunch?

09:22.900 --> 09:25.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
While the Autobahn in Germany
and Austria is toll-free,

09:25.933 --> 09:29.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
the Italian Autostrada
has plenty of toll booths.

09:29.500 --> 09:31.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
But that's nothing new here.

09:31.200 --> 09:34.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
This crossing has long been
a gauntlet of toll booths

09:34.300 --> 09:36.100 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:25%
and forts.

09:36.166 --> 09:38.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Empires, from Roman times
to World War II,

09:38.800 --> 09:42.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
understood the strategic value
of Brenner Pass.

09:42.600 --> 09:44.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
This fortress,
called Franzensfeste,

09:44.633 --> 09:47.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
was built in the 1830s.

09:47.633 --> 09:50.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
It was one of the mightiest
of its day.

09:50.400 --> 09:53.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
A huge investment by
the Habsburg emperor in Vienna,

09:53.466 --> 09:55.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
it was designed
to protect his empire

09:55.633 --> 09:57.666 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
from invasions from the south.

10:00.500 --> 10:03.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
We're following a trade route
dating back to the Middle Ages

10:03.233 --> 10:04.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
that connected
the Germanic world

10:04.900 --> 10:07.866 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
with cities
like Venice and Florence.

10:07.933 --> 10:10.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Medieval traders were stopped
and forced to pay a toll

10:10.533 --> 10:12.700 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
by the lords
of castles like these,

10:12.766 --> 10:16.600 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
strategically situated in pairs
on either side of this valley.

10:16.666 --> 10:19.333 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
But we zoom by toll-free.

10:19.400 --> 10:22.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And before we know it,
the roads get narrow and windy,

10:22.200 --> 10:26.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and we're entering Italy's
dramatic limestone rooftop.

10:26.200 --> 10:29.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Dolomites, with their
distinct and jagged peaks,

10:29.566 --> 10:33.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
offer some of the best
Alpine thrills in Europe.

10:33.466 --> 10:34.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
And these mighty mountains

10:35.000 --> 10:37.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
seem to protect
the traditional culture

10:37.066 --> 10:40.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
in the region's villages
and bucolic farmsteads.

10:40.766 --> 10:44.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Historically, the Tirol
was its own state.

10:44.300 --> 10:47.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Today, that region is divided --
part in Austria

10:47.466 --> 10:49.366 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
and part in Italy.

10:49.433 --> 10:53.166 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
The Italian part
is called South Tirol.

10:53.233 --> 10:55.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The region is a mix
of the two cultures

10:55.500 --> 10:57.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and officially bilingual.

10:57.533 --> 10:59.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
While the traditional economy
is farming,

10:59.766 --> 11:02.033 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
today tourism is also big --

11:02.100 --> 11:04.100 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
skiing in winter,

11:04.166 --> 11:05.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
hiking in summer.

11:05.833 --> 11:08.933 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

11:09.000 --> 11:11.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The Great Dolomite Road,
beautifully engineered,

11:11.566 --> 11:15.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
leads to the nearly
7,000-foot-high Sela Pass.

11:15.633 --> 11:19.000 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

11:19.066 --> 11:20.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
It's great for a joy ride,

11:20.833 --> 11:23.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and famously a big challenge
for bikers.

11:25.400 --> 11:28.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Making it to the summit
is always a good excuse

11:28.200 --> 11:30.066 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
for a triumphant group photo.

11:30.133 --> 11:32.000 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
-[ Speaks foreign language ]

11:32.066 --> 11:36.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
-These bold limestone pillars
offer something for everybody.

11:36.266 --> 11:38.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
This is rock-climbing country --

11:38.566 --> 11:42.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
thrilling, even for spectators.

11:42.100 --> 11:44.766 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

11:44.833 --> 11:49.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
From the town of Ortisei,
we're catching the Seceda lift.

11:49.066 --> 11:52.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
All over this region, the lifts
do the climbing fast and easy,

11:52.966 --> 11:56.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
depositing hikers sweat-free
at thin-air trail heads.

11:56.700 --> 11:59.533 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
I love walking on a ridge.

11:59.600 --> 12:02.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
And with as many nationalities
enjoying this scene

12:02.333 --> 12:04.466 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
as there are
flowers in the fields,

12:04.533 --> 12:08.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the blissful world up here
is one of pristine nature

12:08.433 --> 12:11.600 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
and happy hikers.

12:11.666 --> 12:15.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
These slopes are busy
with skiers in the winter.

12:15.266 --> 12:18.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
When planning, be aware that
in early spring and late fall --

12:18.733 --> 12:21.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
that's between seasons here
in the Dolomites --

12:21.366 --> 12:24.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
many lifts, huts,
and restaurants are shut down,

12:24.666 --> 12:28.133 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
and trails can be
covered in snow.

12:28.200 --> 12:32.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
We're here in summer,
and everything's wide open.

12:32.633 --> 12:35.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Everywhere I look feels like
an Alpine adventure

12:35.633 --> 12:37.333 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
awaiting my arrival.

12:37.400 --> 12:43.600 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

12:46.200 --> 12:47.866 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
One thing I love about Europe --

12:47.933 --> 12:49.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
I've been coming here
all my life,

12:49.600 --> 12:52.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and there's still places
to discover.

12:52.666 --> 12:55.733 align:start position:15% line:10% size:70%
The town of Kastelruth feels
like an Alpine village

12:55.800 --> 12:57.866 align:start position:17.5% line:10% size:62.5%
rather than a ski resort.

12:57.933 --> 13:00.100 align:start position:20% line:10% size:57.5%
That's why I feature it
in my Italy guidebook

13:00.166 --> 13:03.766 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:55%
as the ideal home base
for exploring the Dolomites.

13:03.833 --> 13:07.600 align:start position:27.5% line:10% size:42.5%
[ Bells tolling ]

13:07.666 --> 13:10.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The hyperactive bell tower seems
to ring out the wisdom

13:10.966 --> 13:13.833 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
of honoring local traditions.

13:13.900 --> 13:15.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Buildings are painted
with murals

13:15.533 --> 13:17.566 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
celebrating
the town's rich heritage.

13:17.633 --> 13:22.666 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

13:22.733 --> 13:25.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Clearly, fire has long been
a concern.

13:25.900 --> 13:28.166 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
Saint Florian,
the patron of firefighters,

13:28.233 --> 13:31.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
is shown all over town,
putting out fires.

13:33.800 --> 13:37.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The town cemetery is like
a lovingly tended garden.

13:37.333 --> 13:39.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Entire families share
a common plot.

13:40.033 --> 13:43.966 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

13:44.033 --> 13:46.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Cobbled lanes lead
past friendly shops

13:46.533 --> 13:48.666 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
to the welcoming town square.

13:48.733 --> 13:51.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
And for generations,
the fountain,

13:51.466 --> 13:52.766 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
with its metal cup,

13:52.833 --> 13:56.733 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
has invited all
for a refreshing drink.

13:56.800 --> 13:58.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
The fountain also
watered horses,

13:58.866 --> 14:01.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
back when coaching inns
lined the square.

14:01.366 --> 14:05.066 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

14:05.133 --> 14:06.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Here in the region
of South Tirol,

14:06.866 --> 14:08.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
even though we're in Italy,

14:08.233 --> 14:11.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
locals speak German first
and Italian second.

14:11.966 --> 14:13.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
That's because, for centuries,
it was

14:13.833 --> 14:18.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
in the Austrian Habsburg realm,
ruled from Vienna.

14:18.566 --> 14:22.700 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
After World War I, South Tirol
ended up as part of Italy.

14:22.766 --> 14:25.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Mussolini did what he could
to Italianize the region.

14:25.833 --> 14:28.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
He even gave each city
a new Italian name.

14:28.700 --> 14:31.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
This town, Kastelruth,
became Castelrotto.

14:32.033 --> 14:34.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
But the region's Germanic
heritage endures.

14:34.833 --> 14:36.566 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
You can see it
in its prosperity

14:36.633 --> 14:39.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
and in its lively folk culture.

14:39.100 --> 14:41.433 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
[ Folk music playing ]

14:41.500 --> 14:45.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Amateur folk bands have fun
keeping that heritage alive.

14:45.166 --> 14:48.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The instruments are traditional,
as are the costumes.

14:48.366 --> 14:51.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The blue aprons come from a time
when humble workers

14:51.066 --> 14:53.466 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
needed to protect
their precious clothing.

14:53.533 --> 14:56.066 align:start position:47.5% line:84.66% size:5%
♪♪

14:56.133 --> 14:57.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-[ Singing in foreign language ]

14:57.366 --> 14:58.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-It's nice to think
that these boys

14:58.966 --> 15:01.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
are both modern and traditional,

15:01.300 --> 15:02.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
and their traditions are clearly

15:02.966 --> 15:05.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
surviving into
the next generation.

15:05.066 --> 15:07.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-[ Singing in foreign language ]

15:07.366 --> 15:08.800 align:start position:42.5% line:84.66% size:15%
-Whoo!

15:08.866 --> 15:11.100 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
[ All continue singing ]

15:11.166 --> 15:20.900 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

15:20.966 --> 15:27.900 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

15:27.966 --> 15:30.066 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
[ People cheering ]

15:30.133 --> 15:38.166 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

15:38.233 --> 15:42.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

15:42.833 --> 15:43.766 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
-[ Whistles ]

15:43.833 --> 15:49.433 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

15:49.500 --> 15:50.833 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
[ Song ends ]

15:50.900 --> 15:53.533 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
[ Cheers and applause ]

15:57.733 --> 16:01.433 align:start position:12.5% line:10% size:72.5%
-Kastelruth is the gateway to
Europe's largest Alpine meadow,

16:01.500 --> 16:04.700 align:start position:27.5% line:10% size:45%
the Alpe di Siusi.

16:04.766 --> 16:07.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
As automobiles are
generally not allowed,

16:07.500 --> 16:09.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
visitors approach by cable car.

16:09.800 --> 16:12.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Landing at Compatsch, the
commercial hub of the meadow,

16:12.800 --> 16:14.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
hikers can hop a lift
or a shuttle bus

16:15.033 --> 16:17.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
to the trail head
of their choice.

16:18.000 --> 16:20.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
The Alpe di Siusi is
a natural preserve

16:20.166 --> 16:22.200 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
at the foot
of the mighty Sassolungo

16:22.266 --> 16:24.433 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and Sasso Piatto peaks.

16:24.500 --> 16:27.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
The meadow is 3 miles wide
by 7 miles long,

16:27.300 --> 16:31.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and seems to float
at 6,000 feet above sea level.

16:31.300 --> 16:33.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
It's dotted by farm huts
and wildflowers,

16:33.933 --> 16:37.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
surrounded by
dramatic Dolomite peaks

16:37.266 --> 16:39.533 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and crisscrossed
by meadow trails --

16:39.600 --> 16:44.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
ideal for equestrians,
flower lovers, and walkers.

16:44.133 --> 16:47.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
It's also just right for someone
needing a lazy beer

16:47.366 --> 16:50.300 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
with a spectacular view.

16:50.366 --> 16:53.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
And completing this storybook
Dolomite setting,

16:53.266 --> 16:57.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the spooky Mount Schlern,
home of mythical witches,

16:57.166 --> 17:00.933 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
looks boldly into the haze
of the Italian peninsula.

17:01.000 --> 17:09.133 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

17:09.200 --> 17:11.000 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
-As we continue
our Alpine adventure,

17:11.066 --> 17:12.733 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
we go from the dramatic Schlern

17:12.800 --> 17:15.466 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
to perhaps the most iconic peak
in all the Alps,

17:15.533 --> 17:18.566 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
the Matterhorn, in Switzerland.

17:18.633 --> 17:22.233 align:start position:15% line:10% size:70%
Switzerland is small -- just
half the size of Kentucky.

17:22.300 --> 17:25.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Most of the country
is rural and mountainous.

17:25.300 --> 17:27.800 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
We start in Zermatt,
at the Matterhorn,

17:27.866 --> 17:29.733 align:start position:40% line:10% size:20%
take the
Glacier Express train ride,

17:29.800 --> 17:33.466 align:start position:10% line:10% size:80%
drop in on Appenzell, and finish
in the Berner Oberland,

17:33.533 --> 17:37.600 align:start position:15% line:10% size:70%
riding lifts to the Jungfrau
and the Schilthorn.

17:37.666 --> 17:39.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Zermatt, at the foot
of the Matterhorn,

17:39.566 --> 17:42.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
was essentially built
for enjoying the Alps.

17:42.600 --> 17:45.066 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
It's hugely popular
with skiers in the winter

17:45.133 --> 17:46.833 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and hikers in the summer.

17:46.900 --> 17:50.266 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
With its many lifts, it's a
springboard for countless trails

17:50.333 --> 17:52.500 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and unforgettable viewpoints.

17:53.900 --> 17:56.000 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
The weather's great,
and we're hopping a train

17:56.066 --> 17:59.433 align:start position:27.5% line:10% size:45%
to one of the most
dramatic views in all the Alps.

17:59.500 --> 18:02.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
The Gornergrat cogwheel train
has been wowing visitors

18:02.600 --> 18:05.500 align:start position:35% line:84.66% size:27.5%
since 1898.

18:05.566 --> 18:07.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The trip comes with
sweeping views,

18:07.533 --> 18:10.400 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
first of the town of Zermatt...

18:10.466 --> 18:14.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
then of the iconic peak that
draws so many to this region --

18:14.566 --> 18:16.400 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
the Matterhorn.

18:16.466 --> 18:19.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The train climbs steeply
into the high country.

18:19.266 --> 18:21.500 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
It takes us to over 10,000 feet,

18:21.566 --> 18:24.200 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
where we reach
the end of the line.

18:24.266 --> 18:25.900 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Across the tracks, an old hotel

18:25.966 --> 18:29.033 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
solidly caps
the Gornergrat ridge.

18:29.100 --> 18:33.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Grand views stretch
in every direction.

18:33.566 --> 18:37.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Stunning Matterhorn views
demand the attention of hikers,

18:37.100 --> 18:38.366 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
but there's more.

18:38.433 --> 18:41.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Monte Rosa is actually
higher than the Matterhorn.

18:41.366 --> 18:44.166 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
In fact, at 15,200 feet,

18:44.233 --> 18:47.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
it's the highest point
in Switzerland.

18:48.033 --> 18:50.966 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
And a 1,000-foot sheer drop
below the platform

18:51.033 --> 18:54.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
stretches the mighty
Gorner Glacier.

18:55.033 --> 18:57.100 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
It seems
many of my favorite hikes

18:57.166 --> 19:01.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
start partway down my favorite
lifts or train rides.

19:01.233 --> 19:03.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Hopping off this train
about midway,

19:03.200 --> 19:07.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
I'm in for a sensational
yet easy hike.

19:07.466 --> 19:09.933 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Getting to these exciting spots
with so little work

19:10.000 --> 19:13.500 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and so far from the crowds,
I feel like I'm cheating...

19:13.566 --> 19:16.000 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:35%
and I love it.

19:16.066 --> 19:20.700 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

19:20.766 --> 19:22.866 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
There's just something
about the Matterhorn,

19:22.933 --> 19:25.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the most recognizable
mountain on the planet,

19:25.366 --> 19:27.000 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
that attracts people.

19:27.066 --> 19:29.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
It's a dangerous mountain
to climb.

19:29.666 --> 19:32.533 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Each year, while several
thousand make it to the summit,

19:32.600 --> 19:34.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
about a dozen die trying.

19:35.000 --> 19:36.400 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
And with global warming,

19:36.466 --> 19:39.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the permafrost that keeps it
solid is thawing,

19:39.700 --> 19:44.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
making falling rocks
a new hazard.

19:44.200 --> 19:45.466 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
Surrounding Zermatt,

19:45.533 --> 19:48.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
as if to enjoy views of
the Matterhorn from every angle,

19:48.966 --> 19:52.966 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
are dozens of lifts
and hundreds of miles of trails.

19:54.833 --> 19:57.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
As is the case
throughout the Alps,

19:57.200 --> 20:00.100 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
handy signposts
make it clear where you are,

20:00.166 --> 20:01.366 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
what's the altitude,

20:01.433 --> 20:04.733 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
and how long it takes
to hike to various points.

20:04.800 --> 20:11.066 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

20:11.133 --> 20:13.333 align:start position:40% line:79.33% size:20%
Zermatt,
straddling its tiny river,

20:13.400 --> 20:17.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
is a small town of 6,000
with a big tourist industry.

20:17.733 --> 20:19.966 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
It has more hotel beds
than residents --

20:20.033 --> 20:24.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
and they're often
completely full.

20:24.333 --> 20:26.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Nearly everyone earns a living
one way or another

20:27.033 --> 20:31.300 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
from tourists, who flock here
for a peek at the peak.

20:33.033 --> 20:36.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
About two million visitors
a year arrive by train.

20:36.233 --> 20:38.000 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Cars are not allowed.

20:38.066 --> 20:42.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Electric carts weave quietly
through the pedestrians.

20:42.266 --> 20:43.666 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
The town is a collection

20:43.733 --> 20:46.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
of over 100 modern,
chalet-style hotels,

20:46.233 --> 20:49.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
with a well-organized
and groomed infrastructure

20:49.133 --> 20:52.766 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
for summer and winter sports.

20:52.833 --> 20:56.300 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And this crowd-pleasing herd
of traditional blackneck goats,

20:56.366 --> 20:58.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
which parades
through the town every day,

20:58.400 --> 21:02.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
has had it with selfies
and is headin' for the barn.

21:02.233 --> 21:04.400 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
[ Bells ringing, goat bleats ]

21:04.466 --> 21:05.633 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
If you explore a bit,

21:05.700 --> 21:08.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
you can discover pockets
of traditional charm.

21:11.833 --> 21:15.633 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
200 years ago, Zermatt would
have looked more like this --

21:15.700 --> 21:19.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
little more than a gathering
of humble log cabins.

21:23.200 --> 21:25.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Zermatt works hard to keep
its visitors entertained,

21:25.933 --> 21:30.800 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and tradition-loving locals
seem delighted to do just that.

21:30.866 --> 21:32.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
[ Group singing
in native language ]

21:32.933 --> 21:42.766 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

21:42.833 --> 21:52.600 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

21:52.666 --> 21:54.600 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
-[ Yodeling ]

21:54.666 --> 22:02.433 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

22:02.500 --> 22:10.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

22:10.366 --> 22:18.166 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

22:18.233 --> 22:26.033 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

22:26.100 --> 22:28.366 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
[ Cheers and applause ]

22:33.466 --> 22:35.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
-From the town of Zermatt,
a mighty cable car

22:35.833 --> 22:36.833 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
takes us to the summit

22:36.900 --> 22:39.666 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
of a peak called
the "Little Matterhorn".

22:39.733 --> 22:41.166 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Prices are steep,

22:41.233 --> 22:44.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
as the community has invested
hundreds of millions of dollars

22:44.333 --> 22:47.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in their mountain lifts
in recent years.

22:48.833 --> 22:51.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
These lifts are absolutely
state-of-the-art,

22:51.866 --> 22:56.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and just experiencing them
is worth the splurge.

22:56.166 --> 22:58.000 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:37.5%
At 12,700 feet,

22:58.066 --> 23:02.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
this is the highest
cable-car station in Europe.

23:02.433 --> 23:04.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
While the view of the Matterhorn
from this angle

23:04.433 --> 23:06.900 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
is not the iconic
postcard profile,

23:06.966 --> 23:11.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
the views from this
observation deck are stunning.

23:11.700 --> 23:14.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
On a clear day,
the Alps fill the horizon

23:15.000 --> 23:17.100 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
with all their glory.

23:17.166 --> 23:21.333 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

23:23.900 --> 23:26.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
The Zermatt train station
is busy each morning

23:26.500 --> 23:28.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
as travelers invest a day
of their vacation

23:28.733 --> 23:31.900 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
to take one of the most scenic
train rides in the world,

23:31.966 --> 23:34.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
riding the rails
across southern Switzerland

23:34.300 --> 23:36.966 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
on the Glacier Express.

23:37.033 --> 23:38.133 align:start position:32.5% line:84.66% size:32.5%
This journey,

23:38.200 --> 23:40.300 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
designed to maximize
your sightseeing thrills,

23:40.366 --> 23:44.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
features a masterpiece
of railway engineering.

23:44.100 --> 23:49.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The Glacier Express train line
crosses 290 bridges and viaducts

23:49.200 --> 23:51.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
and goes through
90 tunnels in 8 hours

23:52.000 --> 23:55.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
as it connects two of
the leading Alpine resorts --

23:55.633 --> 23:59.133 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Zermatt and Saint Moritz.

23:59.200 --> 24:01.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Over a quarter million
Alp-lovers

24:01.100 --> 24:03.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
ride this train each year.

24:03.166 --> 24:05.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
People kick back and just relax,

24:05.600 --> 24:09.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
enjoying big windows
for bigger views.

24:09.600 --> 24:12.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The scenery unfolds
as the train carves its way

24:12.566 --> 24:14.700 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
through the Swiss landscape.

24:14.766 --> 24:16.166 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
In the glaciers high above

24:16.233 --> 24:18.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
are born some of Europe's
great rivers,

24:18.533 --> 24:25.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
which flow from here to both the
Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

24:25.166 --> 24:28.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Now we're trading away some
of the staggering Alpine peaks

24:28.433 --> 24:31.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
for an insight into the Swiss
and their heritage.

24:32.033 --> 24:33.733 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
This is Appenzell --

24:33.800 --> 24:36.366 align:start position:30% line:10% size:37.5%
cowbell country
and storybook-friendly.

24:38.133 --> 24:41.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
According to legend, the devil
was flying over these hills

24:41.466 --> 24:44.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
with a sack filled with houses.

24:44.100 --> 24:45.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
A sharp peak
tore a hole in the sack,

24:46.000 --> 24:49.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and lots of chalets
sprinkled over the countryside.

24:49.566 --> 24:53.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
To this day, the farms and
hamlets remain widely scattered,

24:53.133 --> 24:55.033 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
and the canton of Appenzell

24:55.100 --> 24:58.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
remains one of Switzerland's
most traditional.

25:00.566 --> 25:03.233 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The Swiss are famously
independent, and historically,

25:03.300 --> 25:05.000 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
the big threat
to their independence

25:05.066 --> 25:07.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
was the Habsburg Empire
from Austria.

25:07.700 --> 25:10.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
In the Middle Ages,
this region was fragmented

25:10.300 --> 25:12.600 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
into small cantons, or states.

25:12.666 --> 25:14.033 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
In the 13th century,

25:14.100 --> 25:17.633 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
three of these cantons joined
together to fight the Habsburgs.

25:17.700 --> 25:20.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
By 1291, they established
their independence,

25:20.733 --> 25:22.700 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and Switzerland was born.

25:22.766 --> 25:26.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This union eventually grew
to include 26 cantons

25:26.566 --> 25:29.100 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and the country we know today.

25:29.166 --> 25:32.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Switzerland is unique
among its European neighbors.

25:32.433 --> 25:35.533 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
It's not in the E.U.,
and, rather than the euro,

25:35.600 --> 25:38.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
it uses its own currency.

25:38.466 --> 25:39.733 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
This stubborn pride

25:39.800 --> 25:42.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and the resulting survival
of local traditions

25:42.400 --> 25:44.166 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
is one thing
that makes Switzerland

25:44.233 --> 25:46.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
such a rewarding place to visit.

25:46.366 --> 25:47.766 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
[ Cowbells clacking ]

25:47.833 --> 25:49.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
You feel the strength
of that tradition

25:49.766 --> 25:53.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
here in the town of Appenzell.

25:53.066 --> 25:56.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
Amazingly, it wasn't until 1990

25:56.100 --> 25:59.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
that Appenzell women
were given full voting rights.

26:01.066 --> 26:04.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
This has been the capital
of the canton for 400 years,

26:04.666 --> 26:08.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and many of the buildings
date back to that time.

26:08.666 --> 26:10.400 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
[ Bicycle bell rings ]

26:10.466 --> 26:15.700 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

26:15.766 --> 26:17.766 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Switzerland's independence
distinguished it

26:17.833 --> 26:19.433 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
from European high culture.

26:19.500 --> 26:22.500 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Back then, it took royalty
or the Roman Catholic church

26:22.566 --> 26:24.900 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
to pay for big-time
cultural achievements.

26:24.966 --> 26:27.933 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
So, instead of lots
of grand palaces and cathedrals,

26:28.000 --> 26:30.000 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
today, travelers see
Swiss culture

26:30.066 --> 26:33.066 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
on a small and personal scale.

26:33.133 --> 26:35.066 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Folk museums here
give an intimate peek

26:35.133 --> 26:37.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
into Appenzell's
humble rural culture,

26:38.000 --> 26:40.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
with rooms replicating
everyday life,

26:40.100 --> 26:42.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
from where they
raised their families

26:42.133 --> 26:43.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
to where they worked.

26:46.233 --> 26:49.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
In this 400-year-old building,
the ceilings are low,

26:49.066 --> 26:53.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and the floors are creaky
with centuries-old beams.

26:53.766 --> 26:56.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Simple folk art shows
the importance of cows

26:56.766 --> 26:58.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
and the ritual
of taking the herd

26:58.500 --> 27:00.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
up to the high meadows
for the summer

27:00.233 --> 27:02.800 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
and back down for the winter.

27:04.500 --> 27:08.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
This room shows life as it was
for the herder in the high Alps,

27:08.433 --> 27:13.466 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
who spent summers alone,
milking cows and making cheese.

27:13.533 --> 27:16.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
These decorative cowbells
awaited the festive day

27:16.433 --> 27:20.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
when the herd would descend
from the high meadow.

27:20.666 --> 27:23.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
It was a world of wood.

27:23.666 --> 27:25.366 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
The woodshop is where milk pails

27:25.433 --> 27:28.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
would be fashioned
out of maple and fir,

27:28.700 --> 27:30.933 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
soaked in water
to be made pliable,

27:31.000 --> 27:33.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
assembled watertight
with no nails,

27:33.633 --> 27:36.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
and then artfully carved.

27:38.033 --> 27:39.700 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
The woodworker's bedroom

27:39.766 --> 27:42.833 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
reflects the pride
he had in his profession.

27:42.900 --> 27:46.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
He earned enough to afford
some fine painted furniture.

27:46.533 --> 27:50.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
This wardrobe dates from 1817.

27:50.066 --> 27:56.500 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

27:56.566 --> 27:58.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Whether traveling
by train or by car,

27:58.866 --> 28:01.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
mountainous Switzerland
has fine infrastructure,

28:01.966 --> 28:04.000 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
and you can get nearly
anywhere in the country

28:04.066 --> 28:07.633 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
in just a few hours.

28:07.700 --> 28:12.166 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The Berner Oberland
is a particularly scenic region.

28:12.233 --> 28:13.566 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Its Lauterbrunnen Valley,

28:13.633 --> 28:16.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
which stretches south
from the city of Interlaken,

28:16.166 --> 28:17.633 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
is a wonderful springboard

28:17.700 --> 28:22.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
for some of my favorite
Swiss Alp experiences.

28:22.266 --> 28:23.566 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:52.5%
Lauterbrunnen Valley,

28:23.633 --> 28:26.833 align:start position:20% line:10% size:57.5%
with its vertical sides
and flat bottom, is U-shaped,

28:26.900 --> 28:30.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
a textbook example of
a glacier-shaped valley.

28:30.466 --> 28:32.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
While the main town,
also called Lauterbrunnen,

28:32.866 --> 28:34.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
sits on the valley floor,

28:34.566 --> 28:39.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
neighboring towns
hang on cliffs high above.

28:39.266 --> 28:44.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
"Lauterbrunnen" means
"loud waters" -- an apt name.

28:44.233 --> 28:47.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Waterfalls plummet from cliffs
all along the valley.

28:50.700 --> 28:53.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Staubbach Falls -- one of
the highest in Switzerland --

28:53.066 --> 28:55.333 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
drops nearly 1,000 feet.

28:55.400 --> 29:00.033 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

29:00.100 --> 29:03.966 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
The valley --
with its riverside trails,

29:04.033 --> 29:06.600 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
traditional farmhouses,

29:06.666 --> 29:10.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and chorus of surrounding
peaks cheering you on --

29:10.233 --> 29:14.133 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
is a magnet for nature lovers.

29:14.200 --> 29:15.266 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
Towering high above

29:15.333 --> 29:16.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
are the icy Jungfrau, Monch,
and Eiger peaks,

29:16.533 --> 29:21.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
named for the legend of
the young maiden, Jungfrau,

29:21.933 --> 29:24.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
being protected
by the monk, or Monch,

29:24.500 --> 29:29.000 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
from the mean ogre, or Eiger.

29:29.066 --> 29:32.066 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
And perched on a saddle
between two of those mountains

29:32.133 --> 29:34.566 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
is the Jungfraujoch Station,

29:34.633 --> 29:37.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and that's where we're going
by train.

29:39.266 --> 29:41.300 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
From the valley floor,
a cogwheel train

29:41.366 --> 29:43.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
takes tourists
and mountaineers alike

29:43.533 --> 29:46.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
on this ear-popping journey.

29:46.533 --> 29:50.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
As we gradually climb,
the views continually unfold.

29:50.700 --> 29:54.466 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

29:54.533 --> 29:58.266 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

29:58.333 --> 30:01.466 align:start position:35% line:10% size:30%
[ Cow moos ]

30:01.533 --> 30:03.866 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:52.5%
Eventually, we arrive
at Kleine Scheidegg,

30:03.933 --> 30:07.866 align:start position:30% line:10% size:37.5%
a rail junction
at the base of the peaks.

30:07.933 --> 30:11.366 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
For well over a century, this
has been the jumping-off point

30:11.433 --> 30:13.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
for rock climbers
attempting to scale

30:13.500 --> 30:18.733 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
the foreboding
north face of the Eiger.

30:18.800 --> 30:22.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Kleine Scheidegg
has souvenir shops,

30:23.033 --> 30:25.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
hearty food for hikers,

30:25.566 --> 30:28.266 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
and rustic
19th-century hotels --

30:28.333 --> 30:33.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
a reminder that tourism
is nothing new here.

30:33.266 --> 30:35.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
With the craze
for social media these days

30:35.533 --> 30:36.900 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
and with millions of people

30:36.966 --> 30:38.866 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
from countries
with emerging economies

30:38.933 --> 30:41.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
now able to afford
that dream trip to Europe,

30:41.500 --> 30:45.100 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
famous destinations like this
can be really crowded.

30:45.166 --> 30:47.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Do what you can
to minimize the crowds.

30:47.133 --> 30:49.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Arrive early, arrive late --
it really helps.

30:52.733 --> 30:55.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Continuing our journey to
Europe's highest train station,

30:55.800 --> 30:58.166 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
the ingenuity
of Swiss engineers is apparent

30:58.233 --> 31:02.100 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
as we climb the railway
they built back in 1912.

31:02.166 --> 31:04.800 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
Amazingly, our train tunnels
through the Eiger

31:04.866 --> 31:08.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
on our climb all the way
to the Jungfraujoch.

31:09.800 --> 31:11.733 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Think about it --
the Swiss drilled this tunnel

31:11.800 --> 31:12.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
through solid rock.

31:13.000 --> 31:14.333 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
It's four miles long.

31:14.400 --> 31:15.733 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
This train is smooth,

31:15.800 --> 31:17.600 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and they did it 100 years ago.

31:17.666 --> 31:19.100 align:start position:45% line:84.66% size:10%
Why?

31:19.166 --> 31:23.500 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
To show off their engineering
skills and to celebrate nature.

31:23.566 --> 31:27.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
Halfway up, the train stops
at panorama windows.

31:27.633 --> 31:30.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
While expert rock climbers
can exit here

31:30.333 --> 31:33.533 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
into an unforgiving world
of ice and air,

31:33.600 --> 31:34.966 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
sightseers get their thrills

31:35.033 --> 31:38.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
by simply marveling
at the icy views.

31:38.566 --> 31:39.900 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
[ Train rumbling ]

31:39.966 --> 31:41.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Continuing up the tunnel,

31:41.533 --> 31:45.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
from here, the train's cogwheels
earn their keep.

31:45.233 --> 31:49.366 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
You emerge at 11,000 feet --
the Jungfraujoch.

31:49.433 --> 31:51.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Spectacular views
of majestic peaks

31:51.833 --> 31:54.133 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
stretch as far as you can see.

31:56.500 --> 31:58.266 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Cradled among these giants,

31:58.333 --> 32:04.233 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
you understand the timeless
allure of the Swiss Alps.

32:04.300 --> 32:06.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
The Jungfraujoch is like
a small resort

32:06.733 --> 32:09.166 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
perched on a mountain ridge.

32:09.233 --> 32:12.766 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
From the highest viewing point,
you can see the Aletsch Glacier,

32:12.833 --> 32:16.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
which stretches about
10 miles to the south.

32:16.266 --> 32:18.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
While shrinking with
the warming global climate,

32:18.633 --> 32:23.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
it's still the longest
glacier in the Alps.

32:23.766 --> 32:26.266 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
The air is thin.

32:26.333 --> 32:30.233 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
People are in giddy moods.

32:30.300 --> 32:35.633 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The station is a maze of shops,
restaurants, and amusements.

32:35.700 --> 32:37.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
A tunnel is actually carved
through the glacier

32:37.966 --> 32:41.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
to a cavern of ice sculptures --
an especially big hit

32:41.166 --> 32:45.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
for visitors from lands
where ice is a rarity.

32:45.266 --> 32:48.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Outside on the glacier,
people enjoy the scene.

32:48.233 --> 32:50.433 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
From here,
many venture even higher

32:50.500 --> 32:54.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
as a snowy trail leads
to more mountain thrills.

32:54.733 --> 32:56.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
But for me, I'll call this good

32:57.033 --> 32:59.733 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and savor the sense
of accomplishment I get

32:59.800 --> 33:05.200 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
when climbing to
11,370 feet before lunch.

33:05.266 --> 33:12.600 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

33:14.666 --> 33:18.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
The Berner Oberland
has something for everybody.

33:18.933 --> 33:20.766 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Part of the fun
and much of the expense

33:20.833 --> 33:24.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
of enjoying the Alps
is riding the various lifts.

33:24.500 --> 33:28.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Funiculars let hikers
gain altitude quick and easy.

33:28.733 --> 33:31.833 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
This lift actually lets visitors
ride on the rooftop --

33:31.900 --> 33:34.100 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
a great way
to more fully appreciate

33:34.166 --> 33:37.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
the staggering beauty
of the region.

33:38.000 --> 33:40.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
And once again, it's fun
to leave the crowds

33:40.566 --> 33:42.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
by getting off
at an intermediary station

33:42.866 --> 33:44.600 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
and taking a hike.

33:44.666 --> 33:46.333 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
There's a special camaraderie

33:46.400 --> 33:50.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
with people who actually
get out and hike.

33:50.800 --> 33:53.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
And within moments, you're
sharing the experience

33:53.100 --> 33:58.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
with fellow hikers and enjoying
the Alps in a way so many miss.

34:00.033 --> 34:01.700 align:start position:10% line:10% size:80%
Towns like Murren were developed

34:01.766 --> 34:04.766 align:start position:32.5% line:10% size:35%
to accommodate
nature-loving tourists.

34:04.833 --> 34:07.366 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
They cater to your every need.

34:07.433 --> 34:10.333 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
You can stroll through
traffic-free centers,

34:10.400 --> 34:13.366 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and towns are springboards
for a popular option --

34:13.433 --> 34:15.433 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
the electric bike.

34:15.500 --> 34:17.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
While service roads
in the high country

34:17.166 --> 34:19.300 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
may be closed
to regular traffic,

34:19.366 --> 34:21.300 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
e-bikes are more than welcome,

34:21.366 --> 34:25.200 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
and they make you look fitter
than you actually are.

34:27.300 --> 34:29.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Remote towns may be beyond
the reach of your car,

34:29.966 --> 34:33.100 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
but all are accessible
by various lifts.

34:33.166 --> 34:37.966 align:start position:17.5% line:10% size:65%
One of my favorites is the
idyllic village of Gimmelwald.

34:40.600 --> 34:42.933 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
The village,
established in the Middle Ages

34:43.000 --> 34:45.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
precariously on the edge
of a cliff,

34:45.100 --> 34:48.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
was one of the poorest
places in Switzerland.

34:48.633 --> 34:51.100 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Gimmelwald works together
like a big family.

34:51.166 --> 34:53.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
In fact, most of the
hundred or so residents here

34:53.333 --> 34:57.833 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
share one of two last names --
von Allmen or Feuz.

34:57.900 --> 35:00.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
My friend Olle,
long the village schoolteacher,

35:00.566 --> 35:02.466 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
enjoys showing me around.

35:02.533 --> 35:06.666 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
This is the oldest house,
from 1658.

35:06.733 --> 35:09.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
And the woodwork
is generally unpainted --

35:09.200 --> 35:10.733 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
just bleached in the sun.

35:10.800 --> 35:14.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
Originally hay up top
and cows below.

35:14.100 --> 35:16.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
For generations,
families have lovingly tended

35:16.966 --> 35:18.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
their vegetable gardens.

35:18.566 --> 35:21.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
They still are relied on
to put food on the table,

35:21.100 --> 35:24.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
and this one comes
with an artistic side.

35:26.033 --> 35:27.900 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Retaining their
traditional ways,

35:27.966 --> 35:29.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
farmers here make ends meet

35:29.566 --> 35:33.933 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
only with help
from Swiss government subsidies.

35:34.000 --> 35:38.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
They supplement that by working
the ski lifts in the winter.

35:38.466 --> 35:42.266 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
Modern tourism has contributed
to the local economy, as well.

35:42.333 --> 35:44.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
Pension Gimmelwald's
terraced restaurant

35:44.333 --> 35:46.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
is filled with happy hikers
at dinnertime,

35:46.900 --> 35:51.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
enthused by the memories
they earned with today's hike.

35:54.366 --> 35:56.133 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
I've been coming
to Gimmelwald all my life,

35:56.200 --> 35:57.800 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
and it never gets old.

35:57.866 --> 36:00.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
With the world changing
as fast as it is,

36:00.066 --> 36:03.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
I find it refreshing to know
that there are places like this

36:03.400 --> 36:06.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
that still embrace
their traditions.

36:06.166 --> 36:09.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
Dairy is the traditional
industry here.

36:09.066 --> 36:11.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Collecting grass to get
their cows through the winter

36:11.633 --> 36:15.033 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
on these steep slopes
is labor-intensive.

36:17.500 --> 36:19.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Each family fills silos

36:19.066 --> 36:23.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
with enough to feed
a dozen or so cows.

36:23.300 --> 36:26.166 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
But we're here in summer,
and the cows are in the high Alp

36:26.233 --> 36:29.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
enjoying a diet
of fresh grass and flowers.

36:29.633 --> 36:32.766 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
From their milk, some of the
most prized cheese in the world

36:32.833 --> 36:36.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
is still made
in the traditional way.

36:36.566 --> 36:37.933 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
We're joining a small tour group

36:38.000 --> 36:40.566 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
organized by
the village tourist office.

36:40.633 --> 36:42.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Of the countless visitors
in this valley,

36:42.666 --> 36:44.433 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
these travelers
took the initiative

36:44.500 --> 36:49.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
to enjoy this intimate peek
at local culture in action.

36:49.266 --> 36:51.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Once the milk is heated
to just the right temperature,

36:51.866 --> 36:55.166 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
the cheesemaker, using his teeth
as well as his hands,

36:55.233 --> 36:57.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
masterfully scoops about
ten kilos of curds

36:57.900 --> 37:00.233 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
from the bottom of the cauldron.

37:00.300 --> 37:02.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
He then plops
the sopping cheesecloth

37:02.400 --> 37:04.766 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
into a circular mold.

37:06.033 --> 37:07.400 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
It's quickly pressed

37:07.466 --> 37:11.033 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
to remove as much of the liquid,
or whey, as possible.

37:11.100 --> 37:13.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
[ Cheesemaker speaking
indistinctly ]

37:13.266 --> 37:17.033 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
As the moisture is removed
and the aging process begins,

37:17.100 --> 37:21.466 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
a wheel of wet curds
becomes a wheel of Alp cheese,

37:21.533 --> 37:24.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
frequently brushed with brine
and stored flat on shelves

37:24.833 --> 37:28.866 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
in a shed like this one
for up to two years.

37:28.933 --> 37:30.933 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
[ Alphorn blowing ]

37:35.766 --> 37:38.033 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
In the high country,
I also enjoy a chance

37:38.100 --> 37:39.766 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
to hear traditional music --

37:39.833 --> 37:42.000 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
and up here,
along with yodeling,

37:42.066 --> 37:47.600 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
that means the long,
legato tones of the alphorn.

37:47.666 --> 37:51.000 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
The alphorn has a range
of nearly 3 octaves.

37:51.066 --> 37:55.500 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
But with no valves, it's limited
to the same notes as a bugle.

37:55.566 --> 37:56.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Used throughout the Alps,

37:57.000 --> 38:01.466 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
this horn has played a role
in this culture for 500 years --

38:01.533 --> 38:05.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
to call cows from pasture
to the barn for milking,

38:05.300 --> 38:07.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
as a way for herdsmen
in the high meadows

38:07.466 --> 38:11.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
to communicate with people
in the valley below,

38:11.666 --> 38:15.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and even as a call to prayer
through remote valleys.

38:15.266 --> 38:17.200 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
[ Alphorn continues blowing ]

38:17.266 --> 38:25.033 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

38:25.100 --> 38:28.600 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Oh, and we've got time
for one more Swiss summit.

38:28.666 --> 38:30.000 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
High above this meadow,

38:30.066 --> 38:34.600 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
a peak called the Schilthorn
emerges from the clouds.

38:37.166 --> 38:38.933 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
And in good Swiss fashion,

38:39.000 --> 38:41.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
a modern cable car,
the Schilthornbahn,

38:41.600 --> 38:45.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
zips visitors
effortlessly to its summit.

38:47.933 --> 38:51.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
In the Alps, while the valleys
may be blanketed in clouds,

38:51.233 --> 38:53.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
the peaks can be
brilliantly sunny.

38:53.933 --> 38:55.366 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
Get an early start --

38:55.433 --> 39:00.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
the peaks are often clear in
the morning and then cloud up.

39:00.933 --> 39:03.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
The 10,000-foot summit
of the Schilthorn

39:03.266 --> 39:06.466 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
awaits skiers, hikers,
and sightseers

39:06.533 --> 39:09.266 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
both winter and summer.

39:11.333 --> 39:13.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
This station, which capitalizes

39:13.366 --> 39:15.366 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
on its role
in a James Bond film,

39:15.433 --> 39:18.333 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
awaits with
a revolving restaurant --

39:18.400 --> 39:23.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
perfect for spies
nursing their 007 martinis.

39:23.300 --> 39:24.800 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
Meanwhile
on the panorama terrace,

39:24.866 --> 39:26.466 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
families pick out the peaks

39:26.533 --> 39:32.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
while others thrill at
360 degrees of Alpine splendor.

39:32.500 --> 39:34.700 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
For me, the majesty
of the mountains

39:34.766 --> 39:38.600 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
is easiest to appreciate
on my own private perch.

39:40.700 --> 39:44.433 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
As always, try to make a point
to get away from the crowds,

39:44.500 --> 39:50.133 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
to be alone, to savor
an unforgettable moment.

39:54.066 --> 39:56.800 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
Continuing with our
high-altitude explorations,

39:56.866 --> 39:58.400 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:50%
we move on to France

39:58.466 --> 40:02.666 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
to celebrate the summit
of Europe, Mont Blanc.

40:02.733 --> 40:05.166 align:start position:15% line:10% size:67.5%
France, the biggest country
in Western Europe,

40:05.233 --> 40:07.800 align:start position:12.5% line:10% size:75%
has glorious Alps in the east.

40:07.866 --> 40:11.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
We start in Chamonix,
in the shadow of Mont Blanc.

40:11.466 --> 40:13.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
We ride the lift
up to the Aiguille du Midi

40:13.533 --> 40:17.066 align:start position:25% line:10% size:47.5%
and then cross over
the border to Italy.

40:17.133 --> 40:19.266 align:start position:35% line:10% size:30%
Then we hike
the Tour du Mont Blanc,

40:19.333 --> 40:24.166 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
a trail that circles
that iconic mountain.

40:24.233 --> 40:25.766 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Driving into France's Alps,

40:25.833 --> 40:28.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
a scenic valley leads toward
Mont Blanc,

40:28.166 --> 40:30.733 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
the tallest peak in Europe.

40:30.800 --> 40:33.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
The Alpine resort of Chamonix,
nestled in the valley,

40:33.733 --> 40:37.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
is filled with enthusiasm
for the surrounding mountains.

40:37.666 --> 40:41.866 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Tourists and avid climbers
alike mix it up in the streets.

40:44.300 --> 40:46.700 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Statues celebrate
famous mountaineers

40:46.766 --> 40:49.300 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
with their sights
set on Mont Blanc.

40:49.366 --> 40:54.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
These men were the first
to climb it back in 1786.

40:54.300 --> 40:55.633 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
After that triumphant summit,

40:55.700 --> 40:58.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
mountain climbing became
fashionable, Chamonix boomed,

40:58.766 --> 41:02.633 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
and to this day, it serves
the dreams of serious climbers

41:02.700 --> 41:04.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
and day hikers alike.

41:05.033 --> 41:07.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
For advice on finding
just the right hike,

41:07.500 --> 41:10.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
the helpful tourist office
can get you oriented.

41:10.333 --> 41:11.966 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
The staff knows
the weather patterns

41:12.033 --> 41:13.366 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
and can match your abilities

41:13.433 --> 41:15.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
with the most interesting hikes
in the area.

41:15.466 --> 41:18.433 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-...walk from here,
you go across --

41:18.500 --> 41:21.900 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
-We're heading for a station
12,600 feet high,

41:21.966 --> 41:24.200 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
just across from the summit
of Mont Blanc.

41:24.266 --> 41:27.000 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
From there, we hop on a gondola
and soar high

41:27.066 --> 41:29.500 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
over the glacier
to the border of Italy.

41:29.566 --> 41:31.100 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

41:31.166 --> 41:35.100 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
The well-organized lift handles
huge crowds in peak season.

41:35.166 --> 41:39.466 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
We are here on a sunny Sunday
in August, and it's packed.

41:39.533 --> 41:41.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Within minutes,
the powerful cable car

41:41.366 --> 41:44.033 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
sweeps us up
10,000 vertical feet

41:44.100 --> 41:48.100 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
from Chamonix to a pinnacle
called the Aiguille du Midi.

41:50.266 --> 41:53.066 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
From the top of the lift,
a tunnel leads into the rock

41:53.133 --> 41:55.766 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
where we make our final ascent
by elevator

41:55.833 --> 41:58.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
to a commanding perch.

41:58.300 --> 42:00.133 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
Before us spreads the Alps.

42:00.200 --> 42:03.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
You can almost reach out
and pat the head of Mont Blanc.

42:03.366 --> 42:05.466 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
At nearly 16,000 feet,

42:05.533 --> 42:08.700 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
Mont Blanc is the top of Europe.

42:08.766 --> 42:10.400 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
Up here, the air is thin.

42:10.466 --> 42:14.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
People are awestruck by
the grandeur of these mountains.

42:14.566 --> 42:16.200 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And back on the floor
of the valley,

42:16.266 --> 42:20.800 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
nearly two miles below,
is where we started -- Chamonix.

42:20.866 --> 42:24.866 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The Aiguille du Midi station
is a maze of tunnels and stairs

42:24.933 --> 42:26.933 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
leading to various
thin-air amusements

42:27.000 --> 42:29.033 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
and stunning viewpoints.

42:29.100 --> 42:32.300 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

42:32.366 --> 42:34.600 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This is one of the highest
lifts in Europe.

42:34.666 --> 42:36.266 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Everything's breathtaking.

42:36.333 --> 42:39.566 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
At 12,000 feet, even the stairs
are breathtaking.

42:41.700 --> 42:45.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
For an easy thrill,
don't miss the glass box.

42:45.200 --> 42:51.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
You can stand in midair
with no risk but plenty of fear.

42:51.566 --> 42:54.566 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
This ice tunnel,
like a gateway to oblivion,

42:54.633 --> 42:57.533 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
is from where skiers
and climbers depart.

42:57.600 --> 43:00.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
From here, tourists get to see
why Chamonix

43:00.466 --> 43:03.433 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
attracts climbers
from all over the world.

43:03.500 --> 43:07.000 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

43:07.066 --> 43:09.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
For your own private
glacial dreamworld,

43:09.700 --> 43:12.433 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
hop onto the petite gondola
and head south

43:12.500 --> 43:16.633 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
to Helbronner Point,
which marks the border of Italy.

43:16.700 --> 43:19.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Dangling silently
for 30 minutes,

43:19.266 --> 43:21.500 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
we glide over the glacier.

43:21.566 --> 43:24.500 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
From here, it's clear
why the glacier is called

43:24.566 --> 43:28.200 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
the<i> Mer de Glace</i> -- sea of ice.

43:28.266 --> 43:31.733 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
And below us, safely
navigating deadly crevasses,

43:31.800 --> 43:33.533 align:start position:35% line:10% size:30%
small groups
with mountain guides

43:33.600 --> 43:37.333 align:start position:25% line:10% size:47.5%
enjoy the challenge
of their choice.

43:37.400 --> 43:39.333 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
We're surrounded
by a majestic world

43:39.400 --> 43:43.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
of jagged rock needles,
called<i> aiguille</i> in French.

43:43.800 --> 43:46.666 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

43:46.733 --> 43:49.766 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
The Giant's Tooth,
not climbed until 1882,

43:49.833 --> 43:54.100 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
was one of the last
to be conquered.

43:54.166 --> 43:58.966 align:start position:10% line:10% size:77.5%
The cable stretches three miles
with no solid pylon for support.

43:59.033 --> 44:01.300 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
It's as if we're floating.

44:01.366 --> 44:03.266 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
And here comes Italy.

44:03.333 --> 44:07.033 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

44:07.100 --> 44:10.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Helbronner Point is the
French/Italian border station.

44:10.800 --> 44:12.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
From this 11,000-foot-high
station,

44:12.866 --> 44:17.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
the lift descends into Italy's
remote valley of Aosta.

44:17.400 --> 44:21.266 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Hikers from both countries
enjoy the sun and the views.

44:21.333 --> 44:25.500 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

44:25.566 --> 44:27.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Among countless peaks,
you can pick out

44:27.766 --> 44:30.400 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
the perky Matterhorn
in the distance,

44:30.466 --> 44:33.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
and you can look down on
the classic hundred mile trail

44:33.200 --> 44:34.766 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
that circles Mont Blanc --

44:34.833 --> 44:37.066 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
part of which
we'll be hiking later.

44:37.133 --> 44:40.233 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
But today, we're heading back
to Chamonix.

44:40.300 --> 44:45.966 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

44:46.033 --> 44:50.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Chamonix hosted the first
Winter Olympics in 1924,

44:50.200 --> 44:53.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
and it still feels like
an international festival.

44:53.200 --> 44:56.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Whether it's après-ski
or après-hike,

44:56.233 --> 44:58.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
the streets of Chamonix
are always lively.

44:59.033 --> 45:01.100 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
And with all this
strolling ambience,

45:01.166 --> 45:05.300 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
one of my favorite valley walks
is simply through the town.

45:07.766 --> 45:10.700 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
Chamonix was one of the original
Alpine resorts.

45:10.766 --> 45:13.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Until about the year 1800,
people didn't climb or hike

45:14.033 --> 45:17.966 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
or even paint mountains much.
Mountains were a pain.

45:18.033 --> 45:20.566 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
Then in the 19th century,
the Romantic movement

45:20.633 --> 45:24.166 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
had people all across Europe
communing with nature.

45:24.233 --> 45:25.866 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:27.5%
Eventually,
engineers constructed

45:25.933 --> 45:28.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
a state-of-the-art
array of trains and lifts

45:28.333 --> 45:30.800 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
to get the influx
of nature-hungry city folk

45:30.866 --> 45:34.033 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
high into the mountains
with ease.

45:34.100 --> 45:36.600 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
One of the first,
this two-car cog-wheel train,

45:36.666 --> 45:40.233 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
inaugurated in 1909, transported
turn-of-the-century visitors

45:40.300 --> 45:43.233 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
to the edge of
the Mer de Glace glacier,

45:43.300 --> 45:47.566 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and it's thrilling visitors
to this day.

45:47.633 --> 45:49.500 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
This train was built
over the objection

45:49.566 --> 45:50.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
of a couple hundred mule owners

45:51.033 --> 45:53.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
who figured it would put them
out of business.

45:53.200 --> 45:55.266 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
I'd say they were
probably right.

45:55.333 --> 45:58.066 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The Mer de Glace is France's
largest glacier,

45:58.133 --> 45:59.466 align:start position:30% line:84.66% size:40%
four miles long.

45:59.533 --> 46:03.033 align:start position:17.5% line:10% size:62.5%
In the 1600s, the glacier
extended much farther downhill,

46:03.100 --> 46:05.633 align:start position:25% line:10% size:50%
actually threatening
to block off the valley.

46:05.700 --> 46:08.400 align:start position:27.5% line:10% size:45%
But now it's going
in the opposite direction,

46:08.466 --> 46:11.466 align:start position:22.5% line:10% size:55%
receding dramatically.

46:11.533 --> 46:14.366 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
When we travel, we see
and experience vivid examples

46:14.433 --> 46:15.800 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
of climate change.

46:15.866 --> 46:19.333 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
For me, this shrinking glacier
is one of the most poignant.

46:19.400 --> 46:21.566 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
When I first came here
back in the '80s,

46:21.633 --> 46:24.866 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
the Mer de Glace was hundreds
of feet higher than it is today.

46:24.933 --> 46:27.133 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
From up above,
on the observation deck,

46:27.200 --> 46:30.300 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
it's hard to imagine that,
just a few decades ago,

46:30.366 --> 46:32.033 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
the glacier was so much higher,

46:32.100 --> 46:34.766 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
nearly filling
this narrow valley.

46:34.833 --> 46:36.233 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
A cable car descends,

46:36.300 --> 46:38.800 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
taking visitors
closer to the glacier.

46:38.866 --> 46:41.800 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
From there, the hike down
to the receding sea of ice

46:41.866 --> 46:44.266 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
gets longer each year.

46:44.333 --> 46:46.533 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
Disturbing markers
show where the glacier was

46:46.600 --> 46:48.933 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
just a short time ago.

46:49.000 --> 46:54.200 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
A touristic tunnel
is carved deep into the ice.

46:54.266 --> 46:55.833 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Hiking into it,
you find yourself

46:55.900 --> 47:00.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
in a cool, dripping world
of translucent blue.

47:00.500 --> 47:03.066 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
And on an ice carving
meant to call attention

47:03.133 --> 47:07.233 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
to climate change,
tourists pose obliviously.

47:11.200 --> 47:13.433 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
I'm meeting up
with Cassandra Overby,

47:13.500 --> 47:15.733 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:22.5%
author of
"Explore Europe on Foot,"

47:15.800 --> 47:18.733 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
and an expert on Europe's
long-distance hikes.

47:18.800 --> 47:20.300 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
We'll join her for a couple days

47:20.366 --> 47:23.400 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
as she hikes the classic
Tour du Mont Blanc.

47:23.466 --> 47:25.700 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Before any serious hike
in this region,

47:25.766 --> 47:26.966 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
it's smart to drop by

47:27.033 --> 47:29.200 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
the Mountain Guide Center
in Chamonix

47:29.266 --> 47:32.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
to review plans and be sure
you know all the latest.

47:32.400 --> 47:35.433 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
You can get an individual
consultation to tailor your hike

47:35.500 --> 47:39.466 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
to your time frame and ability.

47:39.533 --> 47:42.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Europe has many iconic
long-distance hikes,

47:42.733 --> 47:47.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
and one of the most popular
is the Tour du Mont Blanc.

47:47.733 --> 47:49.200 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
While the Mont Blanc Massif

47:49.266 --> 47:52.166 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
offers some of Europe's
most demanding mountaineering,

47:52.233 --> 47:55.300 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
this accommodating trail
is flexible,

47:55.366 --> 48:00.666 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
enjoyed by hikers
with a wide range of abilities.

48:00.733 --> 48:02.400 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:55%
It's like a huge park,

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part in France, part in Italy,
part in Switzerland,

48:06.066 --> 48:09.600 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
and it's busy
June through September.

48:09.666 --> 48:10.700 align:start position:25% line:84.66% size:47.5%
-Tour du Mont Blanc

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circumnavigates
Europe's highest peak.

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So you go around it
in about 10 days,

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each day about 10 miles,
for a total of 100.

48:20.166 --> 48:22.066 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Each day you see
a different valley,

48:22.133 --> 48:25.400 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
a different glacier, a different
view of the great mountain.

48:27.833 --> 48:30.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
-The Tour du Mont Blanc
is part in wooded farmland

48:31.033 --> 48:35.666 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
and part above the tree line
in the company of glaciers.

48:35.733 --> 48:37.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
The appealing thing about it
for American hikers

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is the delightful mix
of nature, history, and culture.

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The people you meet
on the trails

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come from many lands,

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and your days are filled
with cheery greetings.

48:48.666 --> 48:51.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
We're in France for this
section, so it's "bonjour."

48:51.900 --> 48:53.066 align:start position:37.5% line:84.66% size:22.5%
-Bonjour.

48:53.133 --> 48:57.966 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

48:58.033 --> 49:00.366 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
-Hikers here have
plenty of options --

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You can hike as little or as
much of the route as you like,

49:03.500 --> 49:06.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
but you must reserve
your beds well in advance.

49:06.833 --> 49:10.133 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
One thing I really appreciate,
you can hire a transfer service

49:10.200 --> 49:12.266 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
to take your luggage
to the next hut.

49:12.333 --> 49:13.500 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
That frees me up to hike

49:13.566 --> 49:16.566 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
with just the essentials
in a small day bag.

49:16.633 --> 49:18.033 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
And with Cassandra's help,

49:18.100 --> 49:21.666 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
I've chosen a route
I'm comfortable with.

49:21.733 --> 49:24.133 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
A typical day on the trail
is about 10 miles

49:24.200 --> 49:28.133 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
and around six hours of walking,
and the route is never dull.

49:28.200 --> 49:30.900 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
This bridge actually dates back
to Roman times,

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and for much longer than that,

49:32.600 --> 49:35.966 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
its river has been carving
this gorge.

49:36.033 --> 49:37.400 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
-So, one of the really
interesting parts

49:37.466 --> 49:40.833 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:67.5%
about this route is that it
used to be an old Roman road.

49:40.900 --> 49:43.700 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
And there was a Celtic
settlement just down the way.

49:43.766 --> 49:45.966 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
So in addition to Romans
and Celts,

49:46.033 --> 49:47.433 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
these paths were also
used by shepherds

49:47.500 --> 49:50.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
taking their stock
to different fields.

49:50.700 --> 49:52.533 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
-Mountain huts, called refuges,

49:52.600 --> 49:55.900 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
are placed conveniently
a day's hike apart.

49:55.966 --> 49:58.233 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Our first night
is at Nant Borrant,

49:58.300 --> 50:01.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
a mountain lodge
dating back to the 1800s.

50:05.233 --> 50:08.566 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
Huts are basic --
like hostels for adults.

50:08.633 --> 50:10.433 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Hikers share co-ed dorms

50:10.500 --> 50:13.433 align:start position:37.5% line:79.33% size:25%
and follow
the mountain hut etiquette --

50:13.500 --> 50:17.833 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
Bring your own sleep sack,
no boots inside, and so on.

50:17.900 --> 50:20.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
Personal chores
are done upon arrival.

50:20.466 --> 50:23.566 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
Then it's time to relax.

50:23.633 --> 50:24.766 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
While very simple,

50:24.833 --> 50:28.000 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
up here, the little things
feel luxurious.

50:28.066 --> 50:33.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
A refreshing beer after a day
on the trail hits the spot.

50:33.466 --> 50:34.700 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
Dinner is rustic.

50:34.766 --> 50:38.033 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
There's no menu.
Hikers enjoy whatever is served.

50:38.100 --> 50:40.266 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
And here, way up
in the French Alps,

50:40.333 --> 50:44.466 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
I'm happy to consider this
high cuisine --

50:44.533 --> 50:47.600 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
Soup with mountain cheese,

50:47.666 --> 50:50.466 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
tasty sausage
with potato au gratin.

50:52.666 --> 50:56.333 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And to complement it all,
a hearty red wine from Savoy --

50:56.400 --> 50:59.500 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:67.5%
That's the region we're in.

50:59.566 --> 51:01.333 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
The culture of
the Tour du Mont Blanc

51:01.400 --> 51:05.000 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
is one of respect for nature,
a joie de vivre,

51:05.066 --> 51:07.866 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
and an international
camaraderie.

51:07.933 --> 51:11.000 align:start position:15% line:84.66% size:70%
[ Indistinct conversations ]

51:14.400 --> 51:18.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
In the huts, it's early to bed
and early to rise.

51:18.466 --> 51:19.833 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:60%
After a quick breakfast,

51:19.900 --> 51:23.133 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
we're on to the next leg
of our route.

51:23.200 --> 51:25.966 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:77.5%
Since each day you try to cover
about 10 miles,

51:26.033 --> 51:29.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
it's important to eat
and stay hydrated as you go.

51:29.700 --> 51:31.600 align:start position:35% line:79.33% size:30%
Fortunately,
the Tour du Mont Blanc's

51:31.666 --> 51:34.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
enjoyable combination
of wilderness and commerce

51:34.700 --> 51:36.300 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
means the trail
is well developed

51:36.366 --> 51:39.633 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
for the needs of hikers
along the way.

51:39.700 --> 51:44.233 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:62.5%
And small shops are ideal
for assembling a rustic picnic.

51:44.300 --> 51:47.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-Okay,<i> merci.</i>&nbsp;
-Thanks again.

51:47.566 --> 51:49.100 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
A day's hike is punctuated

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by encounters
with the mountain culture,

51:51.433 --> 51:52.966 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
like a dairy farm making cheese

51:53.033 --> 51:56.400 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
pretty much the way they have
for generations.

51:56.466 --> 52:00.366 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
The farmer's focused on his work
and proud of his product.

52:00.433 --> 52:02.800 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:65%
[ Farmer speaking French ]

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He treats us to a sample.

52:04.900 --> 52:06.000 align:start position:45% line:84.66% size:10%
Mmm!

52:06.066 --> 52:08.333 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
And we buy a nice slice
for the trail.

52:08.400 --> 52:12.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
Clearly, cheese is the energy
bar of the Tour du Mont Blanc.

52:13.466 --> 52:16.200 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Tonight, we're sleeping
in a bigger refuge.

52:16.266 --> 52:19.666 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
This one's a bit more remote,
high above the tree line,

52:19.733 --> 52:21.266 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
but with the same hearty food,

52:21.333 --> 52:24.366 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
simple dormitories,
and great company.

52:28.100 --> 52:29.466 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:42.5%
The next morning,

52:29.533 --> 52:32.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
the convenience of the baggage
transfer service is obvious,

52:32.600 --> 52:35.633 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:42.5%
as bags are taken
to a variety of destinations,

52:35.700 --> 52:39.133 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:77.5%
depending on each hiker's plan.

52:39.200 --> 52:42.066 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
As we head out on what will be
my last day on the trail,

52:42.133 --> 52:44.400 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:37.5%
I realize that,
after so many decades,

52:44.466 --> 52:47.233 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
I'm enjoying a brand-new
European experience,

52:47.300 --> 52:48.833 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
an experience
I wouldn't have found

52:48.900 --> 52:51.933 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
without a great guide
like Cassandra.

52:52.000 --> 52:53.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Cass, what are the most
important things

52:53.566 --> 52:56.000 align:start position:27.5% line:79.33% size:45%
people should know
when they're hiking like this?

52:56.066 --> 52:58.733 align:start position:10% line:79.33% size:80%
-You know, there are only really
three big things

52:58.800 --> 53:00.133 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
that you need to think about.

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The first one is be prepared
for time in the outdoors.

53:03.733 --> 53:06.466 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
So at a minimum,
you need good shoes,

53:06.533 --> 53:09.900 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
some great layers, a solid
backpack, and a good map.

53:09.966 --> 53:12.500 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
Number two is be really
proactive about your comfort

53:12.566 --> 53:13.900 align:start position:22.5% line:84.66% size:52.5%
when you're on trail.

53:13.966 --> 53:17.333 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
So eat before you're hungry.
Drink before you're thirsty.

53:17.400 --> 53:19.533 align:start position:15% line:79.33% size:70%
And the moment that anything
feels uncomfortable,

53:19.600 --> 53:21.666 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
if it's your backpack
or your shoes,

53:21.733 --> 53:24.166 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:72.5%
just stop and take care of it
before you go on.

53:24.233 --> 53:26.500 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
-And finally?
-Don't be intimidated

53:26.566 --> 53:29.800 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
by all of the gear or
the athletic nature of walking.

53:29.866 --> 53:31.500 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
You don't need to be a hiker.

53:31.566 --> 53:33.133 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
You don't need to be
a super athlete

53:33.200 --> 53:34.466 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:72.5%
to enjoy this kind of travel.

53:34.533 --> 53:35.633 align:start position:17.5% line:84.66% size:62.5%
-Because look at my gear,

53:35.700 --> 53:37.200 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
and look at what shape I'm in,

53:37.266 --> 53:38.400 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
and I'm having a blast.

53:38.466 --> 53:40.633 align:start position:10% line:84.66% size:80%
-Right. It's not about exercise.

53:40.700 --> 53:43.700 align:start position:17.5% line:79.33% size:65%
This kind of thing is best
when you slow down.

53:43.766 --> 53:45.733 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:60%
So, there's a hut around
every corner.

53:45.800 --> 53:47.700 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
Stop and take a coffee,

53:47.766 --> 53:49.633 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:52.5%
or, in the afternoon,
have a victory beer

53:49.700 --> 53:51.033 align:start position:20% line:84.66% size:57.5%
if you had a big climb.

53:51.100 --> 53:53.833 align:start position:20% line:79.33% size:57.5%
When you find a stream,
soak your feet.

53:53.900 --> 53:55.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:32.5%
That's really
how you enjoy this.

53:55.866 --> 53:57.200 align:start position:12.5% line:84.66% size:75%
-It's like you're on vacation.

53:57.266 --> 53:58.733 align:start position:27.5% line:84.66% size:45%
-It should be fun.

53:58.800 --> 54:04.233 align:start position:47.5% line:10% size:5%
♪♪

54:04.300 --> 54:06.566 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
-Cassandra's hiking
the rest of the route,

54:06.633 --> 54:08.800 align:start position:32.5% line:79.33% size:35%
but my luggage
is back in Chamonix,

54:08.866 --> 54:12.233 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:47.5%
and I will be, too,
in time for dinner.

54:15.200 --> 54:17.533 align:start position:12.5% line:79.33% size:75%
I hope you've enjoyed our look
at the best of the Alps,

54:17.600 --> 54:20.766 align:start position:25% line:79.33% size:50%
where nature is wild
yet still so accessible.

54:20.833 --> 54:23.166 align:start position:22.5% line:79.33% size:55%
Thanks for joining us.
I'm Rick Steves.

54:23.233 --> 54:26.866 align:start position:30% line:79.33% size:40%
Until next time,
keep on travelin'.